Precision Power P900.4/Phantom series owners ...

[JayBlay77]

Has anyone who owns a PPI Phantom P900.4 been able to successfully remove the end caps/brackets? I'm concerned since they seem metal that they can easily cause a short. Not to mention they just get in the way of making adjustments.

I thought it was just a matter of removing the 2 screws on the bottom that seemed to go into each end bracket, but it still doesn't budge. Any ideas?

Thanks

[MoparMike]

I thought removing the screws would allow for the removal of the end caps too but all it did was make them loose. It might be that removing the other two screws that are further towards the center of the amp will allow for the case to be loosened and the caps removal, but I didn't try.

A funny thing about arcing a screw driver on the case too, it happened to me this past weekend when re-installing the 900.4 with a newly arrived 1000.1. I had been using a phillips with painter tape wrapped around the shaft to prevent scratching the case. Went to use a different screwdriver and it arced. I had thought I removed my inline fuses, so I went back to check and both the fuse for the 900.4 and 1000.1 were removed from ANL fuse holders and the wired portions had been pulled back from the holder and wrapped in a towel. Went back to finish tightening the positive terminal and it arced again. How is that possible when no other electrical items are installed on that cable? It starts at the battery, goes to the fuse and then straight to the amp. No caps or any other electrical items what so ever. The amp had been disconnected for 20 minutes at a minimum. Could there be residual power within it? I've never had it happen before.

[07azhhr]

If you remove the board itself you can access the two additional screws holding the endcaps on. If you do this you will just need to make 4 mounting tabs and attach them to the amp at the bottom endcap screw locations. It looks very odd without the endcaps to be honest so I put mine right back on.

As for arcing the taping method will work but for me I use a slim flat blade Mac tools screwdriver and it torques the screws without any interference from the endcaps.

[IBcivic]

Originally Posted by MoparMike

I thought removing the screws would allow for the removal of the end caps too but all it did was make them loose. It might be that removing the other two screws that are further towards the center of the amp will allow for the case to be loosened and the caps removal, but I didn't try.

A funny thing about arcing a screw driver on the case too, it happened to me this past weekend when re-installing the 900.4 with a newly arrived 1000.1. I had been using a phillips with painter tape wrapped around the shaft to prevent scratching the case. Went to use a different screwdriver and it arced. I had thought I removed my inline fuses, so I went back to check and both the fuse for the 900.4 and 1000.1 were removed from ANL fuse holders and the wired portions had been pulled back from the holder and wrapped in a towel. Went back to finish tightening the positive terminal and it arced again. How is that possible when no other electrical items are installed on that cable? It starts at the battery, goes to the fuse and then straight to the amp. No caps or any other electrical items what so ever. The amp had been disconnected for 20 minutes at a minimum. Could there be residual power within it? I've never had it happen before.

It can take a while for the internal capacitors to discharge.
To avoid this, hook up a 12v light bulb to the +&- terminals and wait 'till it goes dark.
Slide some heat shrink tubing on the shank of your screwdriver and be done with it.

[MoparMike]

Originally Posted by IBcivic

It can take a while for the internal capacitors to discharge.
To avoid this, hook up a 12v light bulb to the +&- terminals and wait 'till it goes dark.
Slide some heat shrink tubing on the shank of your screwdriver and be done with it.

Thanks for that advice, both are good tips.

[IBcivic]

That's what we're all here for, man