So I think I've got a good plan, what do you guys think?
03 Jeep Grand Cherokee with the Infinity Gold "upgrade". Stock is a 6 speaker system, 6 1/2" full ranges in the back doors, 6x9 woofers in the front doors and tweeters in the dash. Dash tweets and 6x9s are crossed over in the amplifier. My plan is to swap the front 6x9s for better coaxials and add a sub. Want to amp the 6x9s and the sub. I've got a 4 channel David Navone LOC that I'm planning on hooking up to the input side of the amp, the input side has 4 channels. I'll run the front to the door speakeramp input, then the rear to the sub amp. The thought is that will allow me to use the fader to control the sub level. I'd like to leave the stock amp running the dash tweeters and the rear doors, at least to start with to see if they add to the system.
Looking at an Alpine PDX V9 for the amp, I've already got an IDQ10 and a set of Boston 6x9s.
Sounds like a plan, expect I would install the LOC after the OEM amp. This will improve the signal strength which will be used to run the inputs of the aftermarket amp.
If the LOC is after the factory amp then I'm stuck with the factory crossover points for the front speakers. Stock front set up is full range into the amp, then 2 way out. I could do post amp for my sub channel, any value there?
The advantage would be to have a stronger signal in so the gains would be set much lower, correct?
I think you can use a LOC that sums the front channel so you can combine it back into full range. That way you won't be stuck with the factory crossover points.
With that unit, you could still install it after the OEM amp. Just tap the front outputs (don't actually cut them), and also connect to the first set of inputs on the processor. Then cut the rear outputs of the OEM amp and run them directly into the second set of inputs. Then, you can run the outputs from the aftermarket amp back to where you cut the OEM harness to send amplified power to the doors.
That way, you can sum the OEM amp outputs for a full range signal out of the processor for the 6x9 and still retain the stock dash speakers. Of course, you can also get a sub output out of the processor as well, but you would not have the ability to control the sub level independently unless you add a separate control knob.
Your other option would be to just find an amp that accepts speaker level inputs (a lot of them do, even if they don't have terminals, you just need to splice rca ends onto the speaker wires). You could then tap the input side of the OEM amp for a full range signal that could be used for the 6x9 plus have a fader control for the sub.
With that unit, you could still install it after the OEM amp. Just tap the front outputs (don't actually cut them), and also connect to the first set of inputs on the processor. Then cut the rear outputs of the OEM amp and run them directly into the second set of inputs. Then, you can run the outputs from the aftermarket amp back to where you cut the OEM harness to send amplified power to the doors.
That way, you can sum the OEM amp outputs for a full range signal out of the processor for the 6x9 and still retain the stock dash speakers. Of course, you can also get a sub output out of the processor as well, but you would not have the ability to control the sub level independently unless you add a separate control knob.
Your other option would be to just find an amp that accepts speaker level inputs (a lot of them do, even if they don't have terminals, you just need to splice rca ends onto the speaker wires). You could then tap the input side of the OEM amp for a full range signal that could be used for the 6x9 plus have a fader control for the sub.
Honestly, it really is a sweet unit for the purpose it was built for. AudioControl doesn't as get much attention as they used to because the competition in their market segment has been steadily increasing lately, but they still make very solid stuff.
I'm not just saying that because I happen to be selling one - it really would be a good solution for your application regardless of where you get one, plus it has some nice eq features as well.
I almost suggested a JL cleansweep, but that thing is way overpriced for what it does. If something like the LCQ-1 doesn't interest you, the Navone LOC or the speaker level amp option is still your best bet (besides just changing the OEM head unit, and bypassing the OEM amp entirely).
stock system integration sanity check
Linear Mode
