In my Civic I am running:
2 - Lunar L60x2 amplifiers (one to each door run passive FTL )
1 - Rockford Fosgate 25 to Life Punch 150 on a DD1508
I am either going to move to an older Power 1000bd for a pair of 1508s @ 2 ohms for 1,000 watts RMS or do a Lunar L1500 on a pair of 10w3v2s @ 1 ohm mono next. Still undecided.
In my Mustang I am running:
1 - Lunar L2125 bridged to my 13w6v2 @ 2 ohms nominal
1 - Soundstream Reference 700s to my 6x8s in the doors
Factory shaker 500 subs (for now)
Next on the docket in the Mustang is to get my alarm installed and remove the SS Reference 700s because I am having horrible gain tracking issues. I may go Class D on the sub and move the L2125 to midbass duty after replacing the Shaker 8s in the doors or I may actually try to utilize the Shaker 8s off of another amplifier as dedicated midbass drivers and work in some form of replacement for my 6x8s.
My future wife's ride is about to get
1 - Orion HCCA 225 bridged to 2 ohms on a Memphis M Class 12 with an Erath Electronic Suspension module
1 - Cerwin Vega EXL-400.4 for her door comps run active
The only holdup on my fiancee's ride is ME! Again, FTL...
2013 Driver's Edition German Fit with Kenwood DNX891HD Source, Audison BitOne Processor, MMATS HIFI-6150D amplifier, Genesis Profile 16 Components (active, of course), and a 10" Alpine Type R Subwoofer in a custom sealed fiberglass enclosure.
"Beware of the forum boner for it will screw you every time!"
Still running a McIntosh MC440m 6 channel for my entire front end - and as good as it sounds, I can't see a single reason to think about changing. I love the Mc! Why? First, I love the fact that you simply can't MAKE IT sound bad if you try. Powerguard eliminates clipping - period and within a single quarter of a potentially clipped wave form, the circuit sense it and proportionately lowers the output (you can't hear it when its working unless you turn it up till its clipping 50% of the time... and then you hear the compression). I ran a lead to an led in my console so I can see when it happens - but heck, I don't like it that loud most of the time anyhow. It generates a lot of power - is perfectly silent when called for, and its built like a tank! And, you can't help but love the silly meters even if they are in your trunk haha.
Also using a plain ol' Zapco reference 750.2 for the sub... and it is also a solid performer. Lots of loud and clean music, no issues.
Still lovin' my '06 Civic SOURCES: 2 Ipods & Pure I20 - Sarotech Media player - Pioneer DVD, DRIVERS: Peerless XLS -Scan 12m - Airborne RT4001 - JBL GTi 12, AMPS: McIntosh 440m - Zapco Ref 750.2, PROCESSING: Bit One & SRC, POWER: Diehard/Stinger CUSTOM: Amp Shroud & Enclosures - ViaBlue/Canare RCAs - Relay block
Killa_cam and his single post dredged this from the '07 past...
Anyway, running PG RSd 1200.1 and RSd 500.4 amps at the moment.
They are way, WAY better than I ever thought they would be.
Special thanks to all of the industry experts that share their knowledge here on the forum
2015 Durango R/T, Build MS-8, Massive NX4 pair, Massive N3, ID X6x9, Wavecor center, Alpine SPX Pro tweeters, Sundown SD3 10's
2017 Colorado, Helix V Eight, Arc 500.1, ID8's, Audible Physics AR3 & AR20