New High Output Alternator Not Putting Out Proper Volts - Concern?

[XPerties]

So this is a 220 amp High Output Alternator, new, installed in a 2005 Ford F150. My old alternator gave me a solid 14.3-14.4 on idle but due to new system being installed I needed a new alternator. I'm getting 13.3-13.6 at idle and sometime as low as 13.0 while driving. This is WITH the system turned off. Now I contacted the company at which time they suggested a smaller belt because of the smaller pulley. My old belt was only about 9 months old and was a goodyear gator so I ordered another belt 1 inch smaller (what a bitch to put on).

Anyways, I haven't measured the amps, well I tried but had the wrong tool. I know amps and volts are different but I'm not feeling good about my choice.

Can anyone give me their opinion on this situation?

[BeatsDownLow]

I have never had a 14 or 14.4 volt output in any of my cars. I have used several HO alts before also. I always get somewhere between 13.5 and 13.8 volts.


You will be fine where your at.

[XPerties]

Originally Posted by BeatsDownLow

I have never had a 14 or 14.4 volt output in any of my cars. I have used several HO alts before also. I always get somewhere between 13.5 and 13.8 volts.


You will be fine where your at.

Really? Which alts have you owned?

[BeatsDownLow]

Originally Posted by XPerties

Really? Which alts have you owned?

2 Iraggi (or however you spell it) and a EA one

Most I ever got was 13.8 volts but I had the amps I was after

[89grand]

If anything, a high amp alternator probably puts out less at idle than a normal alternator. Now once RPM's are up, well then they kick out the amps.

[XPerties]

OK, so this is a bunch of videos with different settings (ac on, lights on, driving, stereo on etc etc). I'm going to send the company the same reply I'm posting here and see what they have to say compared to some replies I may get from you guys.

Amp meter is Klein Tools CL2000 set to DC Amps (picture shown of settings in case I'm wrong):



First video is driving down highway at 65 with no lights, no ac and no stereo on only showing volts which seem to be around 13-13.1
YouTube - Driving with no lights, no stereo, no ac at 65mph

Second video is at idle with volt meter ground to battery and red lead to alternator and amp meter and then rpm taken to 2k:


Third video is ac on, lights on, stereo on volume 20 out of 40 with amp meter and volt meter:
YouTube - With load, music and ac, lights on

Forth video is ac on and lights on at idle:
YouTube - No music with lights/ac on



Bad alternator? Try to get a replacement or buy a different on?

[SpeedEuphoria]

seems fine to me

what does your system consist of?

[SVOEO]

Anyone got a link on data for what's typical OEM volts, real-world?

[XPerties]

Originally Posted by SpeedEuphoria

seems fine to me

what does your system consist of?

Pioneer AVH-P4200DVD, RE SXX 12 in 2.45 Custom Port Box, power Bass Components Front, Powerbass 5x8 rear, Powerbass ATM 900.1D Wired 1 ohm for sub, Powerbass XAX 4160FD for front and rear speakers, Stinger PRO 50F Digital Hybrid Capacitor all wired using KnuKonceptz KCA Kable 1/0 with the big 4 power/ground upgrade

[gijoe]

Is your belt tight enough? I can understand lower voltage at idle, but I think you should be a bit higher at speed, a loose belt would be enough to cause that much of a variation.

[XPerties]

Originally Posted by gijoe

Is your belt tight enough? I can understand lower voltage at idle, but I think you should be a bit higher at speed, a loose belt would be enough to cause that much of a variation.

As I said before:

My old belt was only about 9 months old and was a goodyear gator so I ordered another belt 1 inch smaller (what a bitch to put on).

Seriously there is no way to get a belt any tighter, in fact my son had to hold the breaker bar on the tensioner so I could use both hands and slip it on.

[XPerties]

Here are 2 more videos from last night on my way to work. What do you guys think?

YouTube - Volt issue

YouTube - VID 00015-20101114-2309.3GP

[freemind]

My stock alt puts out 14.2 at the battery. I get 14.0 at the amps.

[gijoe]

Originally Posted by XPerties

As I said before:

My old belt was only about 9 months old and was a goodyear gator so I ordered another belt 1 inch smaller (what a bitch to put on).

Seriously there is no way to get a belt any tighter, in fact my son had to hold the breaker bar on the tensioner so I could use both hands and slip it on.

Ok, just one more thing to throw out there. If a belt is too tight you could destroy the bearing in the alternator. You can check that, but it would require you to take the belt off, and if it's fine you'll be pissed that you went through all that work and have to put it back on. Although, it looks like you'll have to take it apart anyway, you likely have a bad alternator if you're only getting 13 volts at highway speeds. It won't hurt to buy the right belt next time though.

[SpeedEuphoria]

Originally Posted by XPerties

Seriously there is no way to get a belt any tighter, in fact my son had to hold the breaker bar on the tensioner so I could use both hands and slip it on.

Well belt size really shouldn't matter as its the spring in the tensioner that puts the tension on it. You sure the tensioner is good?

[bhadreshl]

Try to measure the output current, rather then just the voltage. I know it's a lot harder because you need a load, but still, you can still do it.

[XPerties]

Originally Posted by SpeedEuphoria

You sure the tensioner is good?

The tensioner is fine or at least it's got one hell of spring on it as it's very touch to release the tension with my breaker bar. The smaller belt was only suggested by the alternator company. Someone else suggested to charge my battery to insure it is 100% even thought its only 3 months old. If that doesn't work I'll be forced to return it. The company is telling me the volts is normal but from my aspect (mind you I'm not a professional) I'd like to see 14+ as output and at my amps.

[cajunner]

it looks like the voltage regulator is malfunctioning.

Even if your battery is low on charge, you should have a solid 14.4V at startup, and after a few minutes it tapers off to 14.0-13.8V, I don't know if the ECM controls your voltage regulation directly or it's separate (usually separate, and in the alternator itself) but something's not perfect, could be bad parts on the alternator build too. I've seen some weird stuff, broken brushes, out of round bushings, cracked wire crimps, whatever...

or, could just be a loose connection heating up, or even bad wire, small wire, bad ground..

[XPerties]

Yes I agree because the output is so wild, meaning it's up and down BUT if I install my OEM alternator it will sit at 14.2-14.4 no matter what I do (unless I turn my system on which is why I decided to get a high output alternator).

[Morganpartee]

Have you checked out the voltage regulator? Idle voltage should be low, but with higher rev's should cap out around 14. Does it maybe have an adjustable regulator you haven't set? Happened to me before...

[Bampity]

I had the same issue as op.
It was with higher rated oem type alternators.
My oe alt was only 65amps. I found a mustang alt from 97 did 100amps.
It was bnib bought from retail but I could barely get it to put put 12volts.
I ended up tightening the belt ridiulous amounts to get it to 12.4.
Got home and ordered a PM200amp alt.
I still had to tension the belt alot but not so much.
I get 13.80-14volts at idle.

[XPerties]

Their alternator: YouTube - VID 00017-20101118-0855.3GP
My Stock Alternator: YouTube - Stock alternator on 2005 Ford F150


Tell me something isn't wrong with their alternator. Anyways they want to charge me a 20% restocking fee and additional $50 for the powder coating. When I first placed the order I sent them an email and offered a video review with comparison between ford stock alternator because I'm apart of a few F150 forums and they agreed to provide is for free. Now he wants to deduct $50 + 20% restocking.

The fight begins.

[aphexacid]

Oh man. PLEASE tell me this isnt a power Bastards alternator.

this is like deja vu

[cobra93]

When you spoke to whomever built the alternator did you ask what the idle voltage should be, did you get their name when you spoke to them?
Are you dealing with the same person now?

If you didn't receive the product you were told you would, (doesn't perform as they stated) you should receive a replacement at no charge.
However if no specifics were stated before the "purchase", whose to say anybody is right or wrong.

If they knew this would be reviewed on many forums, I'd think they'd bend over backwards to get a great review form you.

If nothing else this shows what level of customer service one may expect to receive if they buy "their" product.

[rc10mike]

My HO alt puts out 14.9 in the winter, 14.4 in the summer..