A quicky on Big 3 upgrade - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 06-13-2011   #1
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: virginia beach
Posts: 356

Rep Power: 81 9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (1)



Default A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

I seem to have lost the first series of pics for my Big 3. It was alternator > battery; battery > stock fuseblock B+ terminal and two grounds- one was the factory engine to battery reterminated with a better connector, and the second one was an additional ground to a nice pre-threaded bolt hole. All wiring was Streetwires 4 ga. blue. Connectors were a combo of Home Depot electrical dept. stuff and more gold plated SW I had from other projects. The battery terminals were old SW that had two allowances for screw connetors. You could fit 1 Power Ring, or maybe 3 flat rings.



In this first picture, I have cut the Kicker 0 ga. with a cutter from Harbor Freight This tool worked just fine- very clean on both ends. If you need a good cutter, buy it from HF.





The second pic shows a Scosche 0ga. connector crimped over with vice grips. That white goo is dielectric gel- I use it everywhere on my electric connections.





This pic shows the hydraulic crimpers starting to take a bite. The 0 ga. dies will NOT fit a connector unless you neck it down with vice grips first. They work great for 4 and 8 ga. connectors though; even the commercial grade 120V AC kinds.




This is the completed crimp. I pronounce it structuraly sound. Notice the depth of the bite on both sides. There is also no deformation of the ring itself. Two or three layers of heat shrink tubing and it's a wrap!




This is the "master" ground frame to battery (-). The termination on the end is a Streetwires GT 10, and I used some weaterstripping putty to seal the Wire opening up.





This pic shows the wiring I'm working with and a test run of the 0 ga. The Monster Cable MPC 300's are sweet! But I can't get the cover on them because the rings aren't all lined up the same way. I don't have the Power Wire run to the back yet so that's why I have an open spot on the (+) terminal.




Here you can see two factory grounds freshened up. I also sanded both of the terminals as well. And I'm using a Dremel flex attachment to drill holes to mount the GT 10 block. Very little room to work with here. Measuring and accurately drilling was paramount. Pucker factor very high.




The crowning glory! Gel under each connector, primed and painted. More putty around the GT 10, and each connector also gets a couple layers of "Spray Elecrical Tape". It's kind of a clear rubbery coating. L-R is factory frame to (-), master frame to (-) and factory engine block to (-).




So did it work? Hellz yeah! I get 14.3v at startup, and a solid 14.0 most of the time. Down to 13.5 at idle and some stuff on. 13.0 at idle w/ AC and cooling fans on. 12.8 @ idle w/ AC, cooling fans, rear defroster, high beams and cabin fan on high. Is that an unrealistic load? No. It's going to work on a cool or humid morning, clearing the front and back windows and waiting at a stoplight. Overall, I gained about 3/4 to 1 volt over stock. Anything above 1500 RPM and I'm back up @ 14.0-14.2V. YAY!

Last edited by 9mmmac; 06-13-2011 at 04:41 PM.. Reason: added off-idle voltages
9mmmac is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 06-17-2011   #2
Upgrade Your Membership!
 
..
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: MIAMI
Posts: 80

Rep Power: 93 clix`g35 will become famous soon enoughclix`g35 will become famous soon enoughclix`g35 will become famous soon enoughclix`g35 will become famous soon enoughclix`g35 will become famous soon enoughclix`g35 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (7)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

Wouldn't Dielectric grease act as an insulator in that ring terminal?
clix`g35 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-17-2011   #3
 
EclipseChris's Avatar
 
DIYMA freshman
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Harleysville
Posts: 72

Rep Power: 73 EclipseChris will become famous soon enoughEclipseChris will become famous soon enoughEclipseChris will become famous soon enoughEclipseChris will become famous soon enoughEclipseChris will become famous soon enoughEclipseChris will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (0)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

Quote:
Originally Posted by clix`g35 View Post
Wouldn't Dielectric grease act as an insulator in that ring terminal?
If it does or not who cares? The crimp is where the contact is.
EclipseChris is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-17-2011   #4
Upgrade Your Membership!
 
..
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: MIAMI
Posts: 80

Rep Power: 93 clix`g35 will become famous soon enoughclix`g35 will become famous soon enoughclix`g35 will become famous soon enoughclix`g35 will become famous soon enoughclix`g35 will become famous soon enoughclix`g35 will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (7)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

why would you use such a large cable with the idea of moving large current loads and then reduce the contact area by using dielectric grease?

I'm just curious does it provide anything beneficial other than insulating the areas where the grease is applied?
I am going to be doing the big 3 sometimes next week and want to know if there really is a benefit to the using the grease to seal in the connection and weather you applied it before you crimped or after?

Thanks!
clix`g35 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-17-2011   #5
 
EclipseChris's Avatar
 
DIYMA freshman
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Harleysville
Posts: 72

Rep Power: 73 EclipseChris will become famous soon enoughEclipseChris will become famous soon enoughEclipseChris will become famous soon enoughEclipseChris will become famous soon enoughEclipseChris will become famous soon enoughEclipseChris will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (0)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

It looks to me that he crimped, then greased. The grease is only meant to keep the Wire from corroding.
EclipseChris is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-17-2011   #6
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: virginia beach
Posts: 356

Rep Power: 81 9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (1)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

To all:

Sorry about the late reply; the earlier server problems got me hung up in a loop as well. I add small amount of grease to the wire, then slide the terminal over that. The crimping pressure squeezes most of it out. Not sure if it acts as an insulator or not; I don't hink it does. I have a buddy who does maintenance on Navy radar units; they use that stuff on all the Power connections, so I'll follow that logic. I use it for mostly to help prevent corrosion. Anywhere two metals touch- I'll give it a swipe of the DE grease.
9mmmac is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-17-2011   #7
DIYMA 500 Club
 
DIYMA Loyalist
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 2,782

Rep Power: 112 TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to allTOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to allTOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to allTOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to allTOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to allTOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to allTOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to allTOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to allTOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to allTOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to allTOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to all


iTrader: (1)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

Dielectric is definately a non conductive insulator. That said, I use it on everything, after the connection is made. All my grounds in my Car have been sanded down, tightened, and then smoothered in the stuff to prevent corrosion.
TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-17-2011   #8
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: virginia beach
Posts: 356

Rep Power: 81 9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (1)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

@ Toostubborn... YOU'RE EXACTLY RIGHT!

I farted around in the garage for a while. Squeezed out a glob of the DE gel. Put one probe on each end; not touching. Measured 0.L on my Radio Shack digital meter.

Smeared some on both probe tips, then wiped them off (lightly) with my fingers to simulate the compression of a crimp. When held oh so slightly apart, I got 4-4K ohms resistance. When they were in true contact, I was back down to 0.L.

So... Now what? I really don't wanna redo my crimps. I'd venture that the mechanical compression WILL affect a metal to metal contact, and the gel will guard against moisture intrusion, which I believe to be the main cause of corrosion in an automotive environment, galvanic corrosion included.

So... IMHO, crimp w/ gel > crimp with NO gel.

What sayeth the masses?
9mmmac is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-17-2011   #9
DIYMA 500 Club
 
t3sn4f2's Avatar
 
DIYMA Addict
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Miami, FL
Age: 41
Posts: 8,369

Rep Power: 219 t3sn4f2 is a name known to allt3sn4f2 is a name known to allt3sn4f2 is a name known to allt3sn4f2 is a name known to allt3sn4f2 is a name known to allt3sn4f2 is a name known to allt3sn4f2 is a name known to allt3sn4f2 is a name known to allt3sn4f2 is a name known to allt3sn4f2 is a name known to allt3sn4f2 is a name known to all


iTrader: (0)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

Quote:
Originally Posted by 9mmmac View Post
@ Toostubborn... YOU'RE EXACTLY RIGHT!

I farted around in the garage for a while. Squeezed out a glob of the DE gel. Put one probe on each end; not touching. Measured 0.L on my Radio Shack digital meter.

Smeared some on both probe tips, then wiped them off (lightly) with my fingers to simulate the compression of a crimp. When held oh so slightly apart, I got 4-4K ohms resistance. When they were in true contact, I was back down to 0.L.

So... Now what? I really don't wanna redo my crimps. I'd venture that the mechanical compression WILL affect a metal to metal contact, and the gel will guard against moisture intrusion, which I believe to be the main cause of corrosion in an automotive environment, galvanic corrosion included.

So... IMHO, crimp w/ gel > crimp with NO gel.

What sayeth the masses?
This is where your experiment failed. A compression fitting like the one you made will squeeze the living hell out of all the grease that is between the fitting and the wire.

Same principal applies with copper pipes and brass fittings. Water is much more fluid and yet even under pressure AND from a much more dense material, it will not pass through (ie equivalent of insulating). Add to that the force difference between tons of crimping and pounds of a wrench in a water fitting.

IOW, trust the massed, the Navy knows what they are doing.
t3sn4f2 is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-17-2011   #10
DIYMA 500 Club
 
DIYMA Loyalist
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: CA
Posts: 2,782

Rep Power: 112 TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to allTOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to allTOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to allTOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to allTOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to allTOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to allTOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to allTOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to allTOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to allTOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to allTOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is a name known to all


iTrader: (1)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

Agreed, I think either way your fine. I use dielectric on my battery posts to keep them from corroding, and never have issues.
TOOSTUBBORN2FAIL is online now   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 06-21-2011   #11
 
808Munkyeee's Avatar
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 313

Rep Power: 73 808Munkyeee is on a distinguished road808Munkyeee is on a distinguished road808Munkyeee is on a distinguished road808Munkyeee is on a distinguished road808Munkyeee is on a distinguished road


iTrader: (0)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

it ok man...
808Munkyeee is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-01-2011   #12
 
DIYMA freshman
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 15

Rep Power: 0 awdieee will become famous soon enoughawdieee will become famous soon enoughawdieee will become famous soon enoughawdieee will become famous soon enoughawdieee will become famous soon enoughawdieee will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (0)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

I am in the process of doing the big 3 upgrade and do have a few questions with regards to the factory wiring.

Do I remove the factory wiring or add the big 3 in addition to the factory wiring?

thank you.


Lee
awdieee is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-01-2011   #13
 
basicxj's Avatar
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: north of the 49th
Posts: 254

Rep Power: 115 basicxj will become famous soon enoughbasicxj will become famous soon enoughbasicxj will become famous soon enoughbasicxj will become famous soon enoughbasicxj will become famous soon enoughbasicxj will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (2)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

Quote:
Originally Posted by awdieee View Post
I am in the process of doing the big 3 upgrade and do have a few questions with regards to the factory wiring.

Do I remove the factory wiring or add the big 3 in addition to the factory wiring?

thank you.


Lee
Leave the factory wiring in place and add to it with your "big 3" wires- current will choose the path of lowest resistance, and voltage should improve if the factory Wire represented a choke point.

Alpine DVA 9965 // Alpine TME-740BT // // Alpine PXA H701 // Alpine RUX c701 // Polk SR5250 // Polk SR104DVC // In boxes at the moment- currently rockin' a factory audio system :'(
basicxj is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-01-2011   #14
 
DIYMA freshman
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 15

Rep Power: 0 awdieee will become famous soon enoughawdieee will become famous soon enoughawdieee will become famous soon enoughawdieee will become famous soon enoughawdieee will become famous soon enoughawdieee will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (0)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

Awesome, thank you. One last question, do I not need to add a fuse to the positive post of the big 3?


Lee
awdieee is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-01-2011   #15
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: virginia beach
Posts: 356

Rep Power: 81 9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (1)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

I've seen some people put a fuse between the alternator and the battery, but I don't see the value in that.

You DO need a fuse or circuit breaker between the battery and your amps. Competition rules state it must be within 18" of the battery, which is good advice. There are lots of different styles and ratings. It all depends on how much current you are working with.
9mmmac is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-01-2011   #16
DIYMA 500 Club
 
IBcivic's Avatar
 
Back Yard Installer
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: At Home...EH?
Age: 50
Posts: 4,292

Rep Power: 148 IBcivic is just really niceIBcivic is just really niceIBcivic is just really niceIBcivic is just really niceIBcivic is just really niceIBcivic is just really niceIBcivic is just really niceIBcivic is just really niceIBcivic is just really niceIBcivic is just really niceIBcivic is just really nice


iTrader: (55)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

Quote:
Originally Posted by 9mmmac View Post
I've seen some people put a fuse between the alternator and the battery, but I don't see the value in that.
The Car manufacturers usually use a "fusible link", between the alt and batt. IOW a fuse

IBcivic is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-01-2011   #17
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: virginia beach
Posts: 356

Rep Power: 81 9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (1)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

I have a fusable link at the fuse/relay box under the hood. 95A alternator, 100A FL. Good enough for me! AFAIK, there's not fuseable link/meltable Wire in the actual factory wiring run.
9mmmac is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-01-2011   #18
DIYMA 500 Club
 
IBcivic's Avatar
 
Back Yard Installer
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: At Home...EH?
Age: 50
Posts: 4,292

Rep Power: 148 IBcivic is just really niceIBcivic is just really niceIBcivic is just really niceIBcivic is just really niceIBcivic is just really niceIBcivic is just really niceIBcivic is just really niceIBcivic is just really niceIBcivic is just really niceIBcivic is just really niceIBcivic is just really nice


iTrader: (55)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

You should be good to go, then!

IBcivic is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-06-2011   #19
 
DIYMA freshman
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Plano, TX
Posts: 15

Rep Power: 0 awdieee will become famous soon enoughawdieee will become famous soon enoughawdieee will become famous soon enoughawdieee will become famous soon enoughawdieee will become famous soon enoughawdieee will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (0)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

My battery is in the trunk. From all the reading I gathered, it is recommended to have the ground Wire as short as possible.

Would running a bigger gauge ground Wire from the engine bay all the way back to the trunk be advisable?

Sorry for all the noob questions.


Lee
awdieee is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-06-2011   #20
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: virginia beach
Posts: 356

Rep Power: 81 9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (1)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

Not really- that's what the mass of metal of the car's frame is used for. If you ran a negative Wire from everywhere back to the battery, you'd have twice as much wire, twice as much weight and a huge cable run as thick as your arm. Make sure you sand/grind every connection point down to shiny bare metal, use a true 4 or 0 ga. size ground, and decent crimp connectors. That should do it for ya!

Post pics if you have questions about what/where.
9mmmac is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-06-2011   #21
 
808Munkyeee's Avatar
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 313

Rep Power: 73 808Munkyeee is on a distinguished road808Munkyeee is on a distinguished road808Munkyeee is on a distinguished road808Munkyeee is on a distinguished road808Munkyeee is on a distinguished road


iTrader: (0)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

did you grind the area that connects the 0 gauge Wire to the alternator? the contact point on the alternator?
808Munkyeee is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-07-2011   #22
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: virginia beach
Posts: 356

Rep Power: 81 9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (1)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

I did not change the alternator's ground. I think it's grounded through the metal casing, which touches everything else... (Can anybody confirm this?)

The contact point on the alternator was not modified either. It was pretty easy to find- simply a big stud (!?) with a big Wire coming off it. It traced directly to the battery. The factory Wire was a true 4 ga., but very coarse- maybe 36 individual strands. In this instance, a new, additional and better quality wire was added.

In the pic above that has the battery tray, look for the wire on the left hand side, the one with the RED heat shrink tubing. That's the new one that goes to the alternator. I crimped on a new 4ga. connector, added a couple layers of heat shrink, and slipped it over the existing factory/stock stud. There was plenty of room, and I tightened the nut back down with 4 or 5 threads still left.

If you find a smallish plug with two or three small wires, that's NOT the wire to the battery you are looking for. Most modern alternators have sensing and control wires, and that plug is vital for proper functioning. Don't mess with it!
9mmmac is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-09-2011   #23
 
DIYMA freshman
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Huntington Park Los Angeles 323
Posts: 26

Rep Power: 69 FourTwenty will become famous soon enoughFourTwenty will become famous soon enoughFourTwenty will become famous soon enoughFourTwenty will become famous soon enoughFourTwenty will become famous soon enoughFourTwenty will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (0)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

great write up and def a must!
FourTwenty is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-11-2011   #24
 
DIYMA freshman
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Long beach, CA, USA
Posts: 6

Rep Power: 0 mrbukol will become famous soon enoughmrbukol will become famous soon enoughmrbukol will become famous soon enoughmrbukol will become famous soon enoughmrbukol will become famous soon enoughmrbukol will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (0)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

it's nice project
mrbukol is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 08-11-2011   #25
 
DIYMA Novice
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: virginia beach
Posts: 356

Rep Power: 81 9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough9mmmac will become famous soon enough


iTrader: (1)



Default Re: A quicky on Big 3 upgrade

Thanks. I started this in the spring, and am working towards soundproofing, then I have to Build my apm rack, sub box and complete the install. I hope I get it done before it gets to cold out!
9mmmac is offline   Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:
Location
Where you live
First name
Last name
Do you work in the 12 Volt industry?
Do you work in the 12 Volt industry?
Youtube Channel
Enter Your Youtube Username, And It will Be Linked To In Your Posts!
12V Industry - Company Name
Your company name.
12V Industry - Your Position
Your position in your company.

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 10:53 AM.


Powered by vBulletin®
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Ad Management by RedTyger

Home | User CP | Members List | New Posts | ITrader | Faq | Post Spy