I seem to have lost the first series of pics for my Big 3. It was alternator > battery; battery > stock fuseblock B+ terminal and two grounds- one was the factory engine to battery reterminated with a better connector, and the second one was an additional ground to a nice pre-threaded bolt hole. All wiring was Streetwires 4 ga. blue. Connectors were a combo of Home Depot electrical dept. stuff and more gold plated SW I had from other projects. The battery terminals were old SW that had two allowances for screw connetors. You could fit 1 Power Ring, or maybe 3 flat rings.
In this first picture, I have cut the Kicker 0 ga. with a cutter from Harbor Freight This tool worked just fine- very clean on both ends. If you need a good cutter, buy it from HF.
The second pic shows a Scosche 0ga. connector crimped over with vice grips. That white goo is dielectric gel- I use it everywhere on my electric connections.
This pic shows the hydraulic crimpers starting to take a bite. The 0 ga. dies will NOT fit a connector unless you neck it down with vice grips first. They work great for 4 and 8 ga. connectors though; even the commercial grade 120V AC kinds.
This is the completed crimp. I pronounce it structuraly sound. Notice the depth of the bite on both sides. There is also no deformation of the ring itself. Two or three layers of heat shrink tubing and it's a wrap!
This is the "master" ground frame to battery (-). The termination on the end is a Streetwires GT 10, and I used some weaterstripping putty to seal the Wire opening up.
This pic shows the wiring I'm working with and a test run of the 0 ga. The Monster Cable MPC 300's are sweet! But I can't get the cover on them because the rings aren't all lined up the same way. I don't have the Power Wire run to the back yet so that's why I have an open spot on the (+) terminal.
Here you can see two factory grounds freshened up. I also sanded both of the terminals as well. And I'm using a Dremel flex attachment to drill holes to mount the GT 10 block. Very little room to work with here. Measuring and accurately drilling was paramount. Pucker factor very high.
The crowning glory! Gel under each connector, primed and painted. More putty around the GT 10, and each connector also gets a couple layers of "Spray Elecrical Tape". It's kind of a clear rubbery coating. L-R is factory frame to (-), master frame to (-) and factory engine block to (-).
So did it work? Hellz yeah! I get 14.3v at startup, and a solid 14.0 most of the time. Down to 13.5 at idle and some stuff on. 13.0 at idle w/ AC and cooling fans on. 12.8 @ idle w/ AC, cooling fans, rear defroster, high beams and cabin fan on high. Is that an unrealistic load? No. It's going to work on a cool or humid morning, clearing the front and back windows and waiting at a stoplight. Overall, I gained about 3/4 to 1 volt over stock. Anything above 1500 RPM and I'm back up @ 14.0-14.2V. YAY!