Nice work.

Just a few questions;

Is any 10k linear potentiometer suitable?
Is any male to male micromatch connector (1.27 pitch) suitable?
Why are the pins for the P-DSP labelled right to left on your diagram, but left to right on the schematics?

 

1. Well, I think any "one turn", linear, 10k should be OK. I used carbon/graphite ones - just like for the usual volume control.
2. There's no "male to male" connector as the socket in the DSP is female. Any male 12 pin Micro Match will be ok. The only difference will be how you connect your wires to the plug. (ribbon / solder etc.)
3. It's dependant on the positioning of the socket on the DSP - as you can see the pin 12 is on the left in P-DSP and NOX4 but it's on the right in C-DSP. The pin 12 will always be on the side with the "gap".

 

BTW: I you're really unsure of the pin locations you can always use two needles and a multimeter to find the +3.3V and GROUND coneectors. (just be be careful to not short circuit them )

 

Ordered a few of the connectors today. My soldering technique is probably really bad but im first going to see if it works then maybe get my installer to do a better job.

Its ok you've made the pin locations clear now. Plus i wouldn't trust myself i'd probably fry it or something!

 

OK - just got an answer from Audiotec-Fischer and... the "switch" is made for changing the input from analog to optical and back - useful when you use both inputs as the radio cannot be streamed thru fiber.

 

So if im just using speaker level input, there's no need to connect the "switch" right?

 

Right.

 

Would this dual pot work if requiring both master and sub control?

27ESA103MMF50N - TE CONNECTIVITY / CITEC - POTENTIOMETER, D/GANG, 10K, LIN | Farnell United Kingdom

 

I'm not so familiar with electronic components and their names/symbols.

About the pot - physically you need two separate pots for both controls. So as long as this pot can control both of his "gangs" separately (push/pull) it is ok.

And to the switch - again don't know the proper names but you'll need a swith that will switch between two inputs into one output. Physically you need to put OR the +3.3V OR the Ground to Pin 5. It's made to avoid any undefined state.

 

Hi,
since we have to install 5 wires to front,
do you think ehternet cable will be good enough?
( im affraid the wires in ethernet cable too thins. )

 

I have information about C-DSP:
The technical director of Audiotec-Fischer replied the following :
“...
the C-DSP does not offer the possibility to switch between different input sources.
The customer has to decide during the setup process with the DSP PC-Tool software which inputs he likes to use, so either the SPDIF input or the lowlevel/highlevel inputs.
It is not possible to use both digital and analog inputs at the same time and switch between these!
If the SPDIF input is defined in the software setup as input , the remote control URC 2A is necessary to control the output volume.
The HELIX Bluetooth-Interface isn't available so far and we have postponed its development.....”

So as you can see, your only solution, would be to use C-DSP with the URC 2A

 

I have information about C-DSP:
The technical director of Audiotec-Fischer replied the following :
“...
the C-DSP does not offer the possibility to switch between different input sources.
The customer has to decide during the setup process with the DSP PC-Tool software which inputs he likes to use, so either the SPDIF input or the lowlevel/highlevel inputs.
It is not possible to use both digital and analog inputs at the same time and switch between these!
If the SPDIF input is defined in the software setup as input , the remote control URC 2A is necessary to control the output volume.
The HELIX Bluetooth-Interface isn't available so far and we have postponed its development.....”

So as you can see, your only solution, would be to use C-DSP with the URC 2A

Is it same for P DSP as well?

 

If it is so then its really shocking for Helix not to have supported their product.I was planning to use both ipod classic 160GB/iphone 64GB via pure i20 to DSP to play stored apple lossless music and stock HU of my car for CDs but now i guess I may have to go for 80PRS to play CD/ipod or just ipod/phone.

 

For example:
If you forget turn the volume to zero - you may damage your speakers! This fact is not in favor of Auditec-Fischer.
:hanged:

 

After receiving some questions via PM decided to put here a part of an mail that I've received from Julian Fischer:

"... With the switch you can activate or deactivate the optical input in the same sound setup. This is used when you have connected the CD drive via the optical input and the radio via analog input. For the C-DSP this feature is not so important because the A/D and D/A converters are really good, so that there is no big difference between the optical and analog input but for the P-DSP this feature is more noticeable.

Regarding the connection you are right, the switch switches between ground and +3,3V because we need defined values at the controllers input. Just do nothing might cause an undefined state which is not so good. ..."

As I received this message already after my remote controller was made and installed on 4 wire cable I could not really test this (switch) feature.

The only thing I noticed in comparision to informations found on forum is that I DIDN'T notice any wierd/strange/dangerous noises when I was switching the input sources with my laptop when my system was ON with the amps connected and running.

 

Kick appears when I turn on the DVD (Alpine DHA-S680) - appears SPDIF and volume control is turn on. The louder the sound, the more kick.

 

Is there anyone that has spare micro-match 12pin for sell?

 

I got one but I'm from Poland so can be expensive to ship :laugh:

 

few pics of the remote I made with the help of local electrician.

 

Nice work! Btw which dsp do you have c or p?

Sent from my GT-N7100 using Tapatalk 2

 

I own P-DSP and it will be going IN on Sunday.

 

Does someone have the new pin match for the remote that use only 8 pins (round connector) ??

Thanks

 

See attached.

 

Thank you very much !!

 

And do you know where the pin switch is ?

 

Thanks for the info

is there way to use this connector to make the C-DSP switch between Preset 1 & 2 ?



**Edit**

I found on the audiotec-fischer web site even the real remote cant do it

 

Hello !
I got the pin match yesterday from audiotec fisher !!



---
Attached you find the pinning of the connector, for identifying the pins look for the asymmetrically aligned pitch.
The shielding is GND.
SUB = subwoofer volume; MAIN = main volume booth 10k potentiometers between 3V3 and GND.
SWITCH = the switch between 3V3 and GND.

At this moment, I can't specify you a release date for the new revision of our software, sorry for that.
---

 

Here's my version, with just a bit more info since I took my URC apart.
The bi-colour LED is only necessary if you're using a pushbutton switch that doesn't give any indication as to which state it's in (ie. in/out), but if you use a toggle or rocker switch then you don't need it (unless you like more lights!)

I found the connector at Newark Electronics, their part # 97K5346. $3 - so buy a couple - the pins are tiny and the ABS can melt if you don't solder quickly.

 

Can someone give me some guidance on this please?

I want to control volume only and be able to switch between the 2 presets on the DSP Pro.

I'll have an Alps pot in my possession tomorrow. I need to order a switch. If I am reading this correctly I need a DPDT switch, correct? Does it need to be a rocker/toggle type switch or can it me a momentary switch? I am having trouble finding a DPDT switch that is small enough and does not looks like ass. SPDT switches seem to be super easy to find and look nice, DPDT not so much.

It shouldn't matter if there is no second pot, correct?

I would like to have the parts I need ordered by Monday so I can have them by the end of the week and get this built and functional.

Thanks in advance!

 

I scored a great deal on a P-DSP and it's on the way! I'm going to go ahead and order the components for the remote, but I have a question: What's the difference between these two micromatch connectors (part numbers): 8-215083-2 and 1-215083-2?

Comparison at Mouser:
TE Connectivity / AMP 8-215083-2 Headers & Wire Housings | Mouser

Comparison at digikey:
Rectangular Connectors - Free Hanging, Panel Mount | Connectors, Interconnects | DigiKey

Alternatively, could someone give me a link for where to purchase the correct connector in the USA?

 

What's the difference between these two micromatch connectors (part numbers): 8-215083-2 and 1-215083-2?

Alternatively, could someone give me a link for where to purchase the correct connector in the USA?

Difference is the pitch. Correct number is 571-1-215083-2 with a 1.27 pitch as per the first post.

 

Gonna go ahead and build one of these right now. Thanks so much for the very helpful info. I love knurled metal knobs.

 

Hey jDigital...
Methinks you messed up on a couple of parts there. The pots should be linear taper (granted that Log is typical for audio, but the processor expects a linear taper as it is just a control voltage), and the 8-pin connector should be a plug, not a socket. I think that's digi-key #2080-ND.

 

I have some 10k ohm linear pots already, but wanted log curve also just in case. Are you certain helix takes the linear input and adjusts the volume with a logarithmic curve? I plan to connect the controller using a standard easily replaceable md8 mini din cable. That's my reason for going with a jack instead of a plug.

 

Okey Dokey. I'm using Linear - though I haven't measured it, it sounds 'correct'. And the ones in the actual remote are linear.
Good idea regarding the 8-pin arrangement - I guess you have a source for a cable?

 

Forgot to post up a pic, here's my remote. It's working perfectly. arty2: