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Old 05-11-2005   #26
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does the thickness of the foam matter? i have several sheets of 3/4" and 2" foam. not sure which to use. :? and would any spray sealer work? as long as the foam stays soft?
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Old 05-12-2005   #27
 
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i would think any sealer would work as long as it stays soft..

id say use what you can fit.
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Old 05-19-2005   #28
 
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npdang: this is great because I have a 5th gen accord like yours. Where did you put your tweeters in your install?
also, you had plenty of clearance even with a .75" spacer? I made mine last night and wasn't sure if it would have enough clearance. Any other tips on the accord?

raam: emailed you before I saw your post about some ensolite, looks like you might get that $$ back.
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Old 05-19-2005   #29
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdrockafella
npdang: this is great because I have a 5th gen accord like yours. Where did you put your tweeters in your install?
also, you had plenty of clearance even with a .75" spacer? I made mine last night and wasn't sure if it would have enough clearance. Any other tips on the accord?

raam: emailed you before I saw your post about some ensolite, looks like you might get that $$ back.
Refer to this thread.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3
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Old 05-31-2005   #30
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Great info here...thanks.

My doors are already deadened, but I'm trying to isolate and kill leftover rattles before putting in my Seas speakers and ribbons, so a few more questions.

First off, I have plenty more raamat and some ensolite on the way, so if more deadening is the answer, that won't be a prob (once it gets here). I've also ordered deflex pads.


First off, even though I'm here to ask a question, I wanted to point out that this stuff worked for me well as a final layer http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...0&MID=9876 Maybe someone else may want to try it and get back to us.

After a few layers of the liquid stuff, a few layers of raamat, and a layer of this duct insulation, I still have some "locatable" rattles as well as the sound of pressure inside my door when bass hits....not as much a rattle as a overarching thug in there when bass hits.

First off, the grease didn't work for the door latch part. Any other recommendations? Theres definately some noise coming from this area.

Second....has anyone tried drilling a few small holes in the door to reduce that pressure. I'm talking about holes towards the not where the air will go back into the cabin, but outside. I was thinking about this on the edge of the door towards the back of the car...seems like theres plenty of possible "ventelation spots" that wouldn't let air in the cabin area or water in the door.
I feel like the less sealed the door is (and thus the more exposed it is to the outside world), the less of that thud that will occurr. Anyone tried this?

Finally, what is the ensolite for? Is this going to make the doorpanel (when I lean on it) seem deader, like it's not vibrating inside?

Thanks for any help/suggestions.
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Old 05-31-2005   #31
 
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Ensolite is an acoustical sound barrier, makes things quieter on the inside from the outside, things like road noises and road rumble. Also Makes things quieter on the outside like music and all to pedestrians and whatnot.

Not sure of the exact amount of db drop though of before and after of road noises.
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Old 06-02-2005   #32
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great site.

hey vin, how is it when you roll down your windows? does it rub against the foam? umm..wanna deaden some bimmer doors?
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Old 06-02-2005   #33
 
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Just thought I'd post my results too!

Thanks the Npdang's guide, I've dramatically reduce my rattling on the door panels. Thanks to Rick (raammat), who made raammat affordable! Here's what my doors look like now!

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=45

Take a look at page 4 near the end. You'll see pictures of my accord coupe door (1994).

David
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Old 06-02-2005   #34
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low
great site.

hey vin, how is it when you roll down your windows? does it rub against the foam? umm..wanna deaden some bimmer doors?
i just trimed the top so it doesnt touch the window anymore..

sure, i dont mind at all..! its not like the G35 doors where theres only a Speaker hole is it..? :shock:

the only problem is that after you coat the foam with fabric protectent its suppose to dry before you apply it..

you can order the foam from www.partsexpress.com then i could pick up the A1 Fabric Shield and A1 Adhesive (i ran all out). then when you come up we could try to do it all in one day.....?
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Old 06-03-2005   #35
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dude your doors are REAALY long LOL


man I need to hear these seas mids everyone keeps raving about

nice pics

here are my doors wiht some bquiet ultimate (last year stuff) wish bxt raamat was out when I did my doors since its soo muh thicker and I could have used less oh well next Car


and there is mat under the orignal jute carpet (I just removed it--added mat--then glued it back on--thought it couldnt hurt)



and with my old IR8's (that I really miss )




on my new install I used foam between the metal and the wood much better !!


still havent tried deflex pads yet

next time I go in my door
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Old 06-05-2005   #36
 
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I see a lot of people deaden the inside walls of the outer door skin. How do you get your hands in there to properly cover the skin?
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Old 06-06-2005   #37
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by simplespirit
I see a lot of people deaden the inside walls of the outer door skin. How do you get your hands in there to properly cover the skin?
you hire some midgets so crawl in there

or

you just cut your mat into little pieces and do it little by little

the revolution is over, and so as to not inconvenience anyone, nothing has changed...

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Old 06-07-2005   #38
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 10K2HVN
...its not like the G35 doors where theres only a Speaker hole is it..? :shock:
HEY!!! I resemble that remark! Actually, I was thinking the same thing when I took the panels off my G for the first time... How in the hell am I going to deaden the outer skin????

*sigh*
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Old 06-13-2005   #39
 
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Wow a G35 owner I really like the looks of that car, did you get the coupe? Anyway, Could I see a picture of your doors? I'm not sure I can imagine what "just a Speaker hole" means.

Can you install Pearless 8" in it? (4" mounting depth)


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Old 06-13-2005   #40
 
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Dave,

I'll post some pics when I take the door panel off again. I have a sedan. I know, much more sedate than the coupe. But I just love the "sedan-ness" of it. EMBRACE THE SEDAN.

Plus, the 300 ponies mated to the 6MT ain't so bad!

The mounting depth is 3 13/16"

At least according to the math I did in this post:
http://g35driver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55764
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Old 06-13-2005   #41
 
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Oh.. and there is a BIG access panel in the door. Nissan did us a favor by skinning over all of the holes. It just needs to be removed to access the window mechanicals.
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Old 06-13-2005   #42
 
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Cool! Personally I would get the coupe w/ the MT but that's the sedan looks much more classy. People say I look/act too mature for my age, hence a coupe will improve my image too

Please take some pictures when you get a chance, I would love to see how the doors are structured.

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Old 06-17-2005   #43
 
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Hey yall, nice site btw.
Anyways, I'm about to properly deaden my doors and I have some questions.
How thick of plexiglass should I use? Should I use wood instead?
Here's the hole to give yall an idea.


Also, here's where my mid goes. I threw out the stock plastic Speaker holder for obvious reasons.

I'm thinking I should use mdf but not sure what thickness would be sufficient. There's going to be an mdf spacer mounted on top of the baffle that covers that hole.
I have spectrum on the way for the outer panel and deflex pads here so that's already covered.
Thanks yall.
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Old 06-17-2005   #44
 
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You are planning on deadening the outer door skin aren't you? That part is VERY important.
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Old 06-17-2005   #45
 
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yah, that's what I meant by outer panel. sorry about the n00b terminology. ops:
also, what do you use to cut plexiglass? I've heard it chips when you use a jigsaw sometimes.
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Old 06-17-2005   #46
 
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use a finer thread blade :wink:
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Old 06-17-2005   #47
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Shsshsshsss, here are a few techniques I use when setting up a Car I plan to race alot and have to be very carefull with weight control so channot just mat the hell out of it, just do not tell anyone, lol!

1) Large unsuported body panels, i.e. qtr panels on 2 doors, inside doors with speakers in them.
I use very thin wall aluminum channels mounted horizontally, they have to be bent to conform the area the are mounted to, I do this from outside the Car so I can see what I am doing. I mark where I want them inside the car, then on the outside, match them up and when I get them all done, go inside and install them. Usually about every 4-6" apart, as long as I can possibly get them to fit.
I bond them to the area with double sided commercial glazing foam tape, not easy to find. This does give a little which is acceptable, preferable really, just enough to keep from warping the exterior of the car, expand and contract without breaking free, etc.
Next I apply vertical strips of mat over them, depending on the area, results I need, etc, I may have them 2" wide spaced 3-5" apart, up to 3-4" wide spaced 4-5" apart, whatever seems to be needed, hard to just tell somebody this, I have done many tricks over the years and it takes experience to guesstimate this correctly.
I may add more channel right behind the speakers and more mat then a layer of ensolite at least 12" sq in that area as well.
Next I evaluate and then beef up the Speaker baffel area, usually 1/8" guage channel, has to be bent to the shape needed, I may just use one diagonal piece or several, depends on the area, access, one or two midbasses, etc.
Once fitted I use the double sided tape again then self drilling screws and drill through the inner door metal and into the channel(channel is inside the door On occasion I may have to weld a couple of pieces of the channel together, I suck at aluminum so have it done but all they have to do is weld, I bring it attached to an alignment jig.

In the end, this is alot more work and the results are not alot greater than just using whatever mat and foam I would otherwise but I can save several pounds per door. I look at the whole car concept and do exactly what is needed in each area of the car to get job done.

------

Our current project car will see alot of SCCA autocross action against M3's, STI's, etc, we have to do a great deal of work to control every once of weight and where it is located to get our desired results, this project will take at least 200 hours to fully deaden and we will have approx a 10 lb weight reduction over stock instead of weight gain. We removed all factory deadening and caulking aready, working on seam welding the chassis, and this is one I did to my Tacoma, messy and expensive.

We are filling every pillar, crossmember, frame rails, etc, etc, with an expensive two part eurathane foam, several days worth of prep, will spend somewhere between $600 to $800 on materials, several more days worth of cleanup and cleaning out mounting areas for the trim pops, seatbelts, etc.

This will dramatically stiffen the chassis and will reduce road noise significantly as well.

Do not tell everyone what we do, they may start doing this as well and buy less of our mat J/K, I have shared this with dozens of people but only a couple ever do something as anal as this.

We are doing may other things for weight control, relocating some, expensive body part replacement, etc, etc, in the end we will have a full interior, comp audio system(15"sub) better balance than stock and weigh in at approx 150lbs less than a totally stock car. If we pull the sub and amp rack out, rear seats and seatbelts, we will still met the rules for Street Mod class and then be around 250lbs lighter than stock, going to try to race it effectively with the audio gear in the care, want to bump some heavy bass, play some Audiophile music, etc, while we race, lol!

Rick

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Old 06-17-2005   #48
 
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Hot damn......I hate you rick...........When we gonna get some more pics of the tC, i'm excited to see how much you've done with it, went and picked mine up at the dealer the other day and OMG i'm loving this car. Gonna hopefully start running some wiring soon and gonna hold off of deadener for a few more weeks.
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Old 06-17-2005   #49
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Pics, lol, I am really bad about that, to busy most of the time having fun working on a project or running my business.

The tC is a very well made Car and for the most part deadened nicely from the factory but they just plain screwed up in a few key areas, primarily the sides after the doors, big noise problems there but easy to fix, once that is done then general deadening everwhere else and does not need a ton of materials, depending on your desired results, to make it a nice quiet ride.

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Old 06-21-2005   #50
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Not sure if I'm being a total newb, but for people reading this and heading down to Home Depot/Lowes to get some foam, the foam you are talking about is a pretty specialized foam not available usually in stores, correct?

Remember reading an article where they discussed a two part foam they put into the channels on my Car (a Nissan 200SX) that run beneath the door. Fill them with a two part foam (a foam that doesn't require air I guess to cure, get that stuff from the hardware store and the ends exposed to air will cure, sealing air out from the middle that won't cure at all.

Juan


Quote:
Originally Posted by raamaudio
Shsshsshsss, here are a few techniques I use when setting up a Car I plan to race alot and have to be very carefull with weight control so channot just mat the hell out of it, just do not tell anyone, lol!

We are filling every pillar, crossmember, frame rails, etc, etc, with an expensive two part eurathane foam, several days worth of prep, will spend somewhere between $600 to $800 on materials, several more days worth of cleanup and cleaning out mounting areas for the trim pops, seatbelts, etc.

Rick

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