There are automotive mastics that do the same thing. It's actually cured by heat. You just have to be very careful how much you apply because it can deform sheet metal when cured. Even structural components like pillars.
I think I'll be using a combination of those two choices. Ensolite between the door and the door panels, also between the headliner and the roof. The thicker 1/2" closed cell foam lined on the inside ofthe outer door panel as well as the floor under the carpet. Then use a egg crate type foam directly behind the speakers(or ensolite)
1/2" closed cell foam should decrease more roadnoise than the 1/8" thick ensolite foam. They both have their places in my install.
Which is better for my doors, the Acoustical type or Soundproof type. One is a flat faced sheet, the other is a "egg carton" faced sheet. Thet both will do the same, I think, but which of the two would you recommend. My doors are currently fully dampened. I will be going with, most likely, the Seas Excels 8".
I noticed that you said getting the "closed cell" foam. But I also noticed that you did say and show pictured the "egg carton" type as I purchased?
Which is better? Did I buy the right one? I'm putting it in all my doors, behind the midbass drivers and mids in the kicks (Is this OK?) My ddors are very well dampened as well.
Woudl it be appropriate to put this anywhere else? I have a 4' X 8' sheet, so I can throw it wherever you tell me, if it helps! Also, is the egg carton type I bought as good as the closed cell? Should I just glue down the egg carton sheet to the doors over the Dynamat?
Yeah, this is PeteNYC. Found this forum... are real good place! Really enjoty it and learn a lot here.
I bought that "egg carton" stuff, and got it today. Hope it's as good as the closed cell stuff. Will be putting it in my doors that are already dampened. I posted a link above this reply of what I bought.
Is it good for behind the drivers in already dampened doors?
Oh yeah, my installer, who is ridiculous SQ related, is trying to get me to buy DLS 8.3 midbass's. They're like $600 a pair, just for the mids!. They come from the DLS Iridium 3 way set.
They say all the big competition cars have them. Also, offers a 3.5 inch depth and a 4 ohm rating, always good. What have you heard on them?
Most standard open cell (the egg crate) have slightly better sound absorption characteristics than closed cell as per thickness. I don't think there would be a noticeable difference though, especially in a car.
The benefits of closed cell over open would be closed are more dense and more rigid generally. Which leads to higher strength characteristics, they also have a higher thermal resistance and much higher water and vapor resistance (also to mold, mildew, etc..). Usually, a better UV resistance as well.
So, then the "egg crate" sheet I bought will do the job just as well as the closed cell foam? I mean. if my shhet (egg crate) is "open" cell, than that would be the opposite of "closed" cell. That would lead me to beleive, being opposites, it shouldn't be good!
Just a thought though. I have seen the same stuff in npdang's car, so if it's good for him, it's great fpr me!
I was just making sure I am getting the best results possible. I bought the sheet I got because npdang recommended it, and shave seen it in his ride.
So, then the "egg crate" sheet I bought will do the job just as well as the closed cell foam?
For acoustical properties, the egg shell is going to be somewhat better than a standard closed cell of the same thickness.
From post 23 onwards and you'll see that 10K2HVN used some protectant on his foam which is very similar to what myself and others have done to protect the foam from vapor, water, mold, etc..
But standard egg crate is an effective and cheap way of absorption of mid to treble frequencies.
I have a full 4' X 8' egg crate sheet. I'll be putting it in all my doors, on the entire back panels of the doors. Why not, I have it!
Would it help to put it in the rear hatch? I knwo there are no speakers physically in the rear hatch as the front doors, but maybe it'll at least help with road noise, excessive rattle. etc. My rear hatch is very well dampened as well.
What do you guys recommend as far as a protectant/sealer for the foam against moisture, etc? Also, what do you use to glue it down? Any glue would be fine? It has to glued onto the Dynamt surface, so what is appropriate for this?
I'd like to say that Peel N Seal works good. I just got 75 square ft. at a local Lowe's for a little over $66. It's very easy to apply and a few layers got rid of a lot of rattles. This is my first experiance with sound deadening, I'll never get it last now! heh
-=2001 Dodge Grand Caravan=- [Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP - Stock] Uninstalled:[RF 200.2 - LP 1501 - RF 40x2 - DIYMA R12 - Phaze Audio Studio Driver MW-64 - Phass NT 28TC]
How would you all suggest redampening my doors, I have a piece of aluminum flashing over my access holes (screwed in with self taping screw) with deadener and ensolite on top of it.
I wanted to order another roll of Raammat and redeaden the interior of my doors as well as putting another layer on my outter door skin, and deaden my panels suffeciently as well. After getting into the door and adding the deadener/eggshell foam combo, how would you suggest deadening over the ensolite already on the door face? Make a sandwitch layer, or would that not work well enough? Or would you just suggest ripping the ensolite off, and reapplying it, (i do not want to waist my ensolite).
Also how would you suggest to getting the door to be as resonant and rattle free as possible, the plastic panels that is. My doors are resonating at 90hz as it seems.
Is the clay really necessary? Could you just make a "gasket" out of rubber or foam or something?
Unless I'm unclear about the purpose of the clay, you could instead use that black gunk that they use to put windshields in. Most auto parts stores have it. I bought a pack that was beaded and came on a big roll of tape. It keeps, remains somewhat soft but sturdy. The downside is that it'll stain your fingers and upholstery, so be careful.
After reading this thread i have some questions for you guys :
1) Is that 'egg carton' a sponge ?
2) After 2 layers of dynamat on outer skin, 2 layers on the inner metal skin (one inside the door and one between the metal and the plastic face of the door ) and 1 mineral wool layer over dynamat, between the metal skin and plastic face, i've got absolutely no rattles but, it still doesn't sing like a home wood or MDF enclosure. Sometimes, on some tracks, i can hear the enclosure 'singing'. I think theese are resonances inside the enclosure. Would the egg carton solve this problem ?
3) I've also heard the egg carton isn't efficient on low frequencies ( under 500Hz or so ) and its absorption properties are not linear. A home acoustic engineer recommends the mineral wool as being much more efficient than the sponge. What do u have to say about this ?
We don't have any of this 'non-hardening modelling clay' here, or that kind of arts & crafts store.* Is this stuff actually clay, as in dirt? Or is it something more like a plasticine?
Would something like a glazing mastic do instead? I'm guessing that the important thing the mass your adding around the driver and that's it's coupled to the door...
I'm making some new, beefier baffles to mount my new MW-64s so want to go the extra mile.
*Though I can buy Bennic caps at my local electronics store for $1.50 a pop...