Today was the first day of my '08 CR-V's metamorphosis. With the help of forum member bigaudiofanati2 (Matt) - who I can't recommend highly enough whether you just need questions answered, want to hire for a build or to work along with and learn something at the same time while having things installed well (e.g. good solder skills, and methodical). We started with my car:
'08 CRV LX, with Pioneer DEH-7000BT I previously installed (together with bluetooth, external XM module, but everything else stock (speakers, no amps, no sub - blah blah sound with lots of road noise).
TO (so far):
Alpine PDX-5 5-channel amp; Polk MM6501 6.5" component system for the front; Infinity 6032si 6.5" for the rears. Also, 3-bulk packs of Dynamat Extreme, Kicker 09PK4 4AWG amp wiring kit and Monster MPC I306 6-channel RCA cable. The sub-choice remains pending (but will be powered by the PDX-5) - as I'm still considering either sub-box location or some way of integrating a shallow-mount sub or the like in the truck (without buying a $$$ JL Stealthbox; I'd rather be a bit more unique/custom than that).
Well, without further adieu, here are some pics from Day One. The dynamating was all my work, so don't hold any faux pas there against Matt, lol. I'll leave it to him to reply and detail the considerations he has taken so far on the build.
All new speaker wire was ran to the speakers and to the new tweeters. The original plan was to build up a mount with wood and bondo the tweeters into the sides of the doors. "might still do" but we will first test the system with the stock locations and see how it sounds and go from there. It would look slick and would probably give him better imaging. As I said still up in the air. Tomorrow I will be working on the fuse mount for the crv and painting that. Than Friday we will get back together install the amp either under the seat or in another location. As we have said we are not sure what we are going to do about the sub yet but it will probably be a custom box build. Which I will look forward to. Other minor things will be remounting the blu tooth mic. the sad part about this is that the pioneer is already producing a low wine noise "always with pioneers" so I will probably ground the rca's and change the ground point see if that helps. Might be changing the head unit but that is up to Adam and what the turnout is. It is going to turn out to be a good setup.
Did the fuse block bracket
Fuse mount looks good. Up here in North Jersey, I continued with Dynamat. Today, I think it was seven sheets in the trunk. Here are some pics before and after.
Tomorrow, big things happening. PDX-5 amp which was finally delivered being installed, dynamat to the floors/liftgate, mount the crossovers, bluetooth mic, put everything back together again the ... yeah, listen to and tune it.
Drove down yesterday to continue work with Matt (after spending the day before putting in my trunk Dynamat, as shown above). Wrapped up everything nicely - Dynamat to the floors, amp installed, custom fuse bracket and sheet metal bluetooth mic bracket installed. The Alpine PDX-5 is awesome - so small and the verification sheet from the factory - well, a pic is below; obviously they severely underrate the powerhandling ability of them. I'll let Matt fill in any details from yesterday i'm forgetting. Again, can't recommend working with him highly enough. Learned a lot yesterday and his attention to detail is very significant.
Worked on another car yesterday. This one I got involved in working with bondo. I am still working on the pods and going to get paint soon for them but I do not think they came out bad for a first time.
Just wanted to ask if you sealed up the air gaps on the sides of the speakers here.
I think you have some overkill going on with the dynamat. All it really does is stop resonance. It's not going to block much road noise. Look into mass loaded vinyl and closed cell foam. Most of the other stuff is looking good.
Your boom box better form a union,
cause I leave your circuits overworked.
No dynamat was used in that install. the volvo was just getting a face lift for the speakers and head unit.
I wasn't talking about the volvo, I was talking about whatever vehicle I saw that had dynamat covering the whole thing. I was more concerned with the air leaks in the baffle in the picture, that would be bad, speaking from first hand experience.
Your boom box better form a union,
cause I leave your circuits overworked.
Thought you might have a perspective on this...I have a 2004 Land Cruiser and am about to embark on a replacement of all audio components and speakers except for the head unit as it is integrated with the nav system.
I have been told by someone that there is no way to upgrade the system as you cannot replace or bypass the factory amp because of its importance to the integrated system. It was my understanding that I could use a factory integration unit along with a new amp just fine, but I don't want to go out and buy everything if that's not the case. There does not appear to be a way to bypass the factory amp (best as I could tell from my research) and I don't want to remove it if doing so is going to shut down my integrated nav system.
Does you happen to have a perspective on 1) if what I was told about not being able to upgrade the system is actually true, and 2) if false, you have any experience with this or similar installs?
Appreciate your feedback.
Um, you need to leave the factory amp in there, IIRC. I did one of those where we added a Pioneer flip out nav (Avic-N5, IIRC, it was a while ago).
The volume, balance and fade are controlled at the amp. I fed the outputs of the N5 into the factory amp instead of the factory radio, but you still had to use the factory radio to control balance, and fade. I set the factory volume at a decent level and then you could use the volume on the N5 for the most part...I would have liked to do more, but all they wanted was a Navi.
We had to build a dash piece for it too...I had to relocate the factory part of the head unit (the part with the knobs) into the read side panel...IIRC there was a pocket on the right side by the rear seat. I put it in there for adjustments. He wanted to keep the factory DVD changer and rear overhead.
We also set it up so he could do video in motion for the factory screen.
It was a pain in the butt, because there is NO wasted space in those trucks....very hard to find locations for things when the customer still uses the third row seats sometimes, and folds them when he hauls his dogs.
This was 4 years or so ago, back before BitOnes and 360.2's and Cleansweeps...
Originally Posted by CaptainObvious
Skydiving without a parachute is a once in a lifetime experience.
Hey there, I am newly subscribed to the forums but have been a frequent viewer for a while now. I have a few quickie questions for you if you don't mind. I'm pretty good with wiring and all but I am tied in a knot this time.
I just bought an Alpine W900 and my question is do I only need to hook up the main wiring harness and the GPS antenna? I ask this because there is a TON of stuff on the back of this thing but I was guessing that its for all of the available extras. Do I need to mess with the multiple RCAs and A/Vs?
I thank you and everybody for any help with this thing
I use a radio shack butane soldering torch for 20 bucks you can not beat it. Also weller makes nice circuit board solder very thin stuff usually comes in a plastic tube works very well.
Start off by joining your wires together in a twisting motion so it looks like one constant wire not twisted together coming to a pint. After getting them tight together heat up your gun. Than apply a small about of solder to the tip of the gun than flick it off. This gives the tip a cleaner start for the solder. Than apply a small amount to the tip again and hold to the wires. Than on the wires apply solder.