Anyone looking for help installing or diagnosing audio, computers and so on let me know. I live in Bridgeton NJ 08302. I will travel up to 3 hours for someone who wants to learn or needs help. Let me know Pm me or AIM me at reimermatt. Here is a link to some of my installs and people that I have helped. Need Help? Let Me know - Car Audio Forum - CarAudio.com
Did another install today "was delayed for a week" in a 97 Volvo 850. It was probably one of the more easier installs I have done. Here are some picks of the install.
The loot
The wiring harnesses getting ready to be all soldered
summer is coming up so i will have to time now to install some stuff
i wanna get 2 12"s idk wat kind yet
not a head unit yet but i def want some 12"s
i have a 08 VW GTI hatchback
i dont know how to make boxes either so if u can do that sweet i want it kinda stelath in the back only subs showing rest under floor panel
Thought you might have a perspective on this...I have a 2004 Land Cruiser and am about to embark on a replacement of all audio components and speakers except for the head unit as it is integrated with the nav system.
I have been told by someone that there is no way to upgrade the system as you cannot replace or bypass the factory amp because of its importance to the integrated system. It was my understanding that I could use a factory integration unit along with a new amp just fine, but I don't want to go out and buy everything if that's not the case. There does not appear to be a way to bypass the factory amp (best as I could tell from my research) and I don't want to remove it if doing so is going to shut down my integrated nav system.
Does you happen to have a perspective on 1) if what I was told about not being able to upgrade the system is actually true, and 2) if false, you have any experience with this or similar installs?
Thought you might have a perspective on this...I have a 2004 Land Cruiser and am about to embark on a replacement of all audio components and speakers except for the head unit as it is integrated with the nav system.
I have been told by someone that there is no way to upgrade the system as you cannot replace or bypass the factory amp because of its importance to the integrated system. It was my understanding that I could use a factory integration unit along with a new amp just fine, but I don't want to go out and buy everything if that's not the case. There does not appear to be a way to bypass the factory amp (best as I could tell from my research) and I don't want to remove it if doing so is going to shut down my integrated nav system.
Does you happen to have a perspective on 1) if what I was told about not being able to upgrade the system is actually true, and 2) if false, you have any experience with this or similar installs?
Appreciate your feedback.
I apologize for the wait. Yes you can do a full system upgrade but you can not replace your head unit. You will need to sue something like the JL clean sweep to allow you to add on amps and all at the same time using your factory head unit. If you need more info on thie just let me know. The pics I am about to post of the accord install I didi I had to do one it took me a few hours but I got it.
Last edited by bigaudiofanatic; 06-28-2009 at 07:45 PM..
This one was a big one I will quote his review so you can read it.
So Matt helped me install a kickass system in my 2008 Accord. It took a couple of days and a lot of driving but it was definitely worth it. Matt is a chill guy and we got along well right from the start.
I pulled into his driveway on Saturday morning a little before 8am and he had all of his tools and supplies laid out and ready to go.
We installed:
JL C5-650 components in front
JL C5-650x coaxials in rear
JL Slash 300/4v2 amp
Infinity 10" Basslink
JL CleanSweep
MTX Re-Q
Dynamat Xtreme on floor, doors, rear deck and under back seat
We started off by stripping the interior of the car:
Then we jumped right into laying down the dynamat .. here is the passenger's-side floor:
Door before Dynamat
Door after Dynamat
Fuse holder mounted
Cleansweep wired up, not yet secured
Amp being wired up
One of the rear crossovers mounted
Finished!!
Overall it took us about 25 hours spread out over 4 days (with breaks and stuff). Matt made the two and a half hour drive up to my place twice without hesitation. He did great work and I learned a lot along the way .. if you need any car audio stuff done, contact matt (AIM reimermatt), you won't regret it.
Did this one a few years ago but the guy was getting ready to sell it so I snapped some pics.
Here is an older install I did it was about 2 years ago. The car was a 96 Vw Jetta it was my 3rd time doing head rest tvs it was very tricky and still is to me lol. But here are some picks.
Front Doors
Head units "didn't do the fiberglass but and getting ready to learn it"
Rear tv's
Rear Deck infinitys don't ask me why he wanted them in the back and the polks in the front.
Cd changer
It also had 2 hifoinic amps mounted to the rear seats and the wires tucked threw the seat itself. There was also a box with 2 kicker L5's. It was nice to bad I did not get picks of them.
sweet, you're near me, (cherry hill area). maybe i'll hit you up for some tuning soon, perhaps an amp/sub install or when i replace my front speakers. ill def shoot you a PM!
I am sorry if this is in the wrong section/thread I am new here and wanted to ask a few questions.
I am building an enclosure for a 12'' Alpine type R. The amp I have is a JL e 1800D monoblock amp. I am not sure on how to build the box. I have a few ideas but not sure what will sound the best.
1st idea was to make it a square enclosure with the front side at a 45-55 degree angle (which is where the sub will be)
2nd idea was to make it sorta long and have the sub on the long side sorta like a tube(sub not at end but on side) but more rectangular.
Im not sure how big I should make it. If any one could help me with some ideas on dimensions that would be great. I posted here cuz my first post. Oh and I want it to be ported too. Thank you all.
I don't think he was asking about SPL vs. SQ. I think he was more looking for ideas on how to build it dimensions and to what specs. Which depends on 2 things really.
1.) Which version of the Type R do you have? the 2 ohm or 4 ohm version.
2.) What type of enclosure are you going to build, (sealed, ported, bandpass, IB?)
As I said I am not REALLY a box builder any box I build or buy is sealed as I like the sound that is produced. With the amp that you selected I would choose the DVC 2 ohm type r as it can go to 1 ohm load. The dvc 4 ohm can not. I know he was not asking about it I was just telling him that I am not into that much power going to a sub. Or getting it that loud. So I am not sure what to tell him for box building.
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