Audison Bit One- A Most Worthwhile Addition to my Signal Path.

[wedoca]

Apparently the Bitone sounds so good that some of you would take a chance and getting a problematic unit; at the meantime I think I'll hold off till Audison remedy the issue. Btw how is the Bit1 compare to the DSP6? Below are my set up and I'll be getting a Rainbow 10' later. I hate my stock stereo in my 09 Camry so should I wait for the fixed Bit1 or get something good/reliable now and be done with it?

HU: Mcintosh MX4000/MDA4000 combo
Tweet: Rainbow CAL27
Mid: ScanSpeak Illuminator 8ohm (thanks for npdang)
Rear: Rainbow DreamLine
Amp: Mcintosh MC431M
Sub: "____" 10'?

What's the best way to set it up with the Bit1 if I do get it?

[Buzzman]

Originally Posted by Here-I-Come

At this point man, some may say I'm crazy and I have said other wise before now, but I think as long as the F'ing DRC doesn't flake out or cause the beeping I will be fine. If I get whine I will remove the board from its case (the cause of the whine) And make my own case out of plexi. I liked the sound that much. And when Audison figures out a fix for the case have them to send me a new/replacement. . . .

Mark, I don't agree with this plan. Why do this when you can exchange the unit? There has to be a reasonable limit to this DIY approach. And, I would be surprised if Elettromedia goes along with this.

[Buzzman]

Over the weekend I made a couple of changes that turned out to be monumental. First, I moved my Tru Technology SSLD6 to follow the Bit One in my signal path. Since the Tru line driver is 6 channel, I have channels 1 and 2 from the Bit One going directly to my tweeter amp, and the remaining outputs from the Bit One going to the Tru line driver, and from there to the applicable amps. I then recalibrated the Bit One by resetting the input sensitivity levels as in the original set-up. With the Tru line driver no longer in front of it, the input sensitivity setting for the Bit One will definitely change. Well, all I can say is GLORY HALLELUJAH! Amazing dynamics, and much greater headroom. With the line driver preceding the Bit One and its gain pots turned to max, and the DRZ output level set at the same number as it is now, I had to turn to volume level on the Bit One's DRC up as high as -4 to get any significant SPL in my car. Now, the gain levels on the Tru line driver are between 50% and 75% on the various channels, and if I turn the DRC controller to -16 the SPL is greater than it was before when turned to -4. In addition, I have noticed greater depth, resolution and image focus. There is a tad more background noise as would be expected, but nothing I find objectionable, and I might be able to reduce that my turning down gains on my tweeter and midrange amps.

I received today the optical cable for my DRZ, and the toslink connectors I need to modify it to fit the Bit One. That's going in tomorrow and I will amend my review to reflect what I hear.

Finally, I added the Morel Ultimo 12 to my system. Suffice to say, I won't be looking for a new subwoofer anytime soon. This sub is absolutely glorious. Review to come.

[volker]

I can't tell you how refreshing it is to read about someone having a blast with the BitOne, not just problems.
Mine is still in the box, so is all my gear, earliest starting date for my install will be mid April. Hope I won't have any issues (*knock on wood*).

[Buzzman]

Originally Posted by volker

I can't tell you how refreshing it is to read about someone having a blast with the BitOne, not just problems.
Mine is still in the box, so is all my gear, earliest starting date for my install will be mid April. Hope I won't have any issues (*knock on wood*).

Yeah, I feel for the guys having issues, but the readers need to know about the good results as well. Good luck with yours when you get around to installing it.

[michaelsil1]

What toslink end is needed (DRZ9255), I was asked if it was the old or new toslink.

[CraigE]

Originally Posted by Buzzman

Yeah, I feel for the guys having issues, but the readers need to know about the good results as well.

Same here.
I feel bad that I'm luv'n the B1, when others are having problems with it.

[Buzzman]

Originally Posted by michaelsil1

What toslink end is needed (DRZ9255), I was asked if it was the old or new toslink.

Michael, you need the DCA-005 optical cable, available from Pac Parts, Clarion's West Coast distributor (Consumer Electronic Parts and Accessories at PacParts, Inc.) - by the way the model # is also the part #. You will also need a toslink connector as the Clarion cable does not use a toslink connector. You can order a couple (an extra one just in case) from Lifatec: Toslink Connectors, Fiber Optics and Termination Tools

Then, you simply need to replace the Clarion connector on the "receiving" end of the cable with the new toslink connector as the instructions say, plug into the optical input of the Bit One, make sure you have the optical input selected during the set-up process of the Bit One, select digital out on the DRZ, and voila, you have a direct all digital connection to the Bit One.

[ARCuhTEK]

Originally Posted by Buzzman

Mark, I don't agree with this plan. Why do this when you can exchange the unit? There has to be a reasonable limit to this DIY approach. And, I would be surprised if Elettromedia goes along with this.

Because exchanging the unit may not result in a good unit. This has been proven on this forum.

Larry Fredericks of Elettromdeia, Yousseff Phillips of Advanced and my dealer Joe, all have told me to do exactly that....take the circuit board out of the case. This blew me away that they would even suggest a customer handle the issues own their own. I have never encountered this approach from mfr. to customer. I suppose, if I were Elettromedia, I would REQUIRE that the unit be shipped back before ANY DIY methods were implemented. So I am surprised. Also, I think their requests are more about a temporary diagnosis and troubleshooting versus a permanent approach.

On the other hand, I suppose your response to the above statement was basically saying the same thing....okay to troubleshoot, but not to plan on leaving it that way permanently.

Let me also support your thread by saying the following. I realize I am slamming the Bit One pretty hard in other threads on this forum, plus I was the one who posted pretty telltale videos on YouTube. But I REALLY wish my Bit One were flaw free. That thing is just a beauty. This is why I named my own thread "genius to junk." Because right now, "my" Bit One is just that...both genius and junk. I REALLY wish I could fix the issue and move on to the real tweaking like you are doing. I too am happy that you are really enjoying it. So I will be following your thread with envy.

Run like the wind!

[michaelsil1]

Originally Posted by Buzzman

Michael, you need the DCA-005 optical cable, available from Pac Parts, Clarion's West Coast distributor (Consumer Electronic Parts and Accessories at PacParts, Inc.) - by the way the model # is also the part #. You will also need a toslink connector as the Clarion cable does not use a toslink connector. You can order a couple (an extra one just in case) from Lifatec: Toslink Connectors, Fiber Optics and Termination Tools

Then, you simply need to replace the Clarion connector on the "receiving" end of the cable with the new toslink connector as the instructions say, plug into the optical input of the Bit One, make sure you have the optical input selected during the set-up process of the Bit One, select digital out on the DRZ, and voila, you have a direct all digital connection to the Bit One.

Don thank you. I'm almost ready to install and was wondering if there were any issues with running Windows Vista?

[Buzzman]

Originally Posted by michaelsil1

Don thank you. I'm almost ready to install and was wondering if there were any issues with running Windows Vista?

Not that I am aware of. My laptop uses Vista and I have had no problems.

[Buzzman]

Originally Posted by ARCuhTEK

Because exchanging the unit may not result in a good unit. This has been proven on this forum.

Larry Fredericks of Elettromdeia, Yousseff Phillips of Advanced and my dealer Joe, all have told me to do exactly that....take the circuit board out of the case. This blew me away that they would even suggest a customer handle the issues own their own. I have never encountered this approach from mfr. to customer. I suppose, if I were Elettromedia, I would REQUIRE that the unit be shipped back before ANY DIY methods were implemented. So I am surprised. Also, I think their requests are more about a temporary diagnosis and troubleshooting versus a permanent approach.

On the other hand, I suppose your response to the above statement was basically saying the same thing....okay to troubleshoot, but not to plan on leaving it that way permanently.

Let me also support your thread by saying the following. I realize I am slamming the Bit One pretty hard in other threads on this forum, plus I was the one who posted pretty telltale videos on YouTube. But I REALLY wish my Bit One were flaw free. That thing is just a beauty. This is why I named my own thread "genius to junk." Because right now, "my" Bit One is just that...both genius and junk. I REALLY wish I could fix the issue and move on to the real tweaking like you are doing. I too am happy that you are really enjoying it. So I will be following your thread with envy.

Run like the wind!

I am surprised they would tell you it was OK for you to remove the circuit board. But then again, they obviously plan to stand behind the product.

Thanks for your positive words also. I know you are going through hell, and hope your experience with the Bit One turns out to be a positive one.

[Buzzman]

Originally Posted by CraigE

Same here.
I feel bad that I'm luv'n the B1, when others are having problems with it.

Hey Craig, where in LA are you? I am on the West side. Not too often I see another senior citizen like me on this forum. We should try to get together for some listening sessions.

[michaelsil1]

Originally Posted by Buzzman

Not too often I see another senior citizen like me on this forum.

How old do you have to be for the Senior Citizen Award?

[Buzzman]

Originally Posted by michaelsil1

How old do you have to be for the Senior Citizen Award?

North of 50.

Michael, you know exactly what I am talking about having attended all those So Cal meets together and having to introduce these kids to "old school" music.

[volker]

and just when you thought it is save to settle down, The Dead go back on tour

[michaelsil1]

Originally Posted by Buzzman

North of 50.

Michael, you know exactly what I am talking about having attended all those So Cal meets together and having to introduce these kids to "old school" music.

Beethoven's Violin Concerto with an Audison Bit One.

[CraigE]

Originally Posted by Buzzman

Hey Craig, where in LA are you? I am on the West side. Not too often I see another senior citizen like me on this forum. We should try to get together for some listening sessions.

I am in the Los Feliz Area, I think we talked about this in a PM.
Don't you remember ?
You know.... the memory is the second thing to go.

[n_olympios]

What's the first again? I forget...

[CraigE]

Originally Posted by n_olympios

What's the first again? I forget...

I can't remember either.
Any young guys remember ?

[michaelsil1]

Originally Posted by n_olympios

What's the first again? I forget...

Rock Hard Erections.

[michaelsil1]

Do we skip this step: OEM source de-equalization?

[DT053]

What is the incremental steps for the EQ and Delay functions?

Something like +/- 1hz for for the EQ and 0.50ms for the delay or do you set the delay based on the sampling frequency and how many cycles?

Thanks
dT

[buggsson]

Originally Posted by DT053

What is the incremental steps for the EQ and Delay functions?

Something like +/- 1hz for for the EQ and 0.50ms for the delay or do you set the delay based on the sampling frequency and how many cycles?

Thanks
dT

I don't know if this is what you were asking about, but it is from the short version of the manual.


Equalizer Filter type 31 Band, ISO 1/3 Oct, 20 Hz÷20 kHz
Equalizer Gain +/- 12 dB


Delay 0÷22 ms (748 cm / 294.5 inch)

[DT053]

Thanks for the reply. OK now I understand it uses a graphic EQ and not a parametric, but what about the delay steps from 0ms to 22ms, how are they broken up... 0.1ms...0.5mm..1.0ms Just trying to figure if the resolution is fine enough? I currently use sigma studio and it totally different, so sorry if I'm not explaining myself well enough.

Thanks again,

dT