I want to bring my current car audio setup into my house.
This would consist of an Eclipse 8053 and probably two 2 channel amps. I have no home audio speakers and have no desire to build any. So I would need some good stereo speakers. I have a sub and an enclosure to go with it as well.
My goal is just to have a reference system for my car while not investing in anything other than the speakers and a power supply of some sorts. I don't care how it looks, just how it sounds.
How do I make this happen. Or am I a complete retard here?
Re: Don't laugh...I'm serious....can this be done??
It would work, but you may find yourself wanting a more permanent setup in your home if you get a good set of stereo speakers. So, it might be wise to go ahead and buy a nice stereo amp and receiver to drive them.
Re: Don't laugh...I'm serious....can this be done??
Because, like I said, I don't want to spend anymore $$$ than I need to. I'm very familiar with the sound of the 8053 and want to continue to use it as a reference. It will only be temporary anyway. When I get a new place I will move it to the garage.
Yea I know it might seem like a stupid idea, but I really don't care about that. I just need technical advice on how to go about it.
Re: Don't laugh...I'm serious....can this be done??
Quote:
Originally Posted by stormtrooper
how many watts you plan on running ??
I guess the best option here would be to use Seas drivers (already have the tweeters) and get some cabinets built. In that case I have 45x4 @ 4 (12v) for the mids and tweeters and 200x1 @ 4 (12v) for the sub. I would be able to run everything active off the 8053.
I guess I should have thought about this a little more before making a post. It's not looking very feasible is it?
Re: Don't laugh...I'm serious....can this be done??
yeah,that pyramid will work as long as your amps are not pulling more than 35 amps,but you know what will happen....LOL...you'll get bored wanna upgrade to bigger amps,the snowball effect...lol...this is a bad addiction and you have audio fever...
Re: Don't laugh...I'm serious....can this be done??
Quote:
Originally Posted by stormtrooper
It's do-able just need an adequate power supply, they can be pricey ...you just got too much time on your hands...lol
No, I have too much EQUIPMENT Al !!!!!!!!
Actually it would not be to my advantage to change anything in the set up. Again, my goal is to have a reference audio system. How the hell am I ever going to hear this supposed "sound quality" of an amplifier if I have no logical or experimental basis from which to compare?????
Re: Don't laugh...I'm serious....can this be done??
How do you plan to judge sound quality of an amplifier in the home sitting on a power supply with pristine DC output and little/no EMI/RFI interference that would be in the vehicle?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bikinpunk
Mark's an up late kinda dude. His neighbor has a horse.
Re: Don't laugh...I'm serious....can this be done??
Quote:
Originally Posted by chad
How do you plan to judge sound quality of an amplifier in the home sitting on a power supply with pristine DC output and little/no EMI/RFI interference that would be in the vehicle?
Re: Don't laugh...I'm serious....can this be done??
Quote:
Originally Posted by SQ_Bronco
If you only want to listen to it for a few minutes at a time, just get a big deep cycle car battery and a cheap charger.
That was the other thought I had.
Look, I don't know what the hell I'm doing here. This is just an idea/goal that I have. If I can use the equipment that I already have without spending any more $$$, and make it sound good in the process that would be awesome. If not, then I will say screw it and move on.
Re: Don't laugh...I'm serious....can this be done??
The amp I plan to use for the tweeters and the midbass is an Audison SRx4. It's 12v rating is 45watts x 4 into a 4 ohm load. If I take 45x4=180 and convert it into amps, I get 15 correct??
My subamp 12v rating is 200watts x 1 at 4 ohm bridged. That equates to 16.7 amps.
This puts me at a total of ~32 amps at 12v. This does not take into the efficiency of both amps which are both Class A/B. Can someone help me figure this in??
Re: Don't laugh...I'm serious....can this be done??
I'd hunt for a Big-Ol surplus power supply, build one, or use the battery approach. I bench test with 6X 6V golf cart batteries, those bad oscars can make some current.
They are in an out building about 30 feet from the house, charged via solar, and piped in with 000 cable in conduit underground. All was surplus, including the solar charging. It's all going away very soon (this week) due to my ability to sell the system for MUCH more than I bought it for.
I have a link for a transformer for cheap to start a power supply project, it's actually a site we talk about here, but it's not on this computer. The transformer is often the hardest thing to find when building a high current power supply.
As for my comment. I'd rather run an amplifier in a car that is slightly compromised in "sound quality" in a home than one that will react in an ugly manner when introduced into an electrically noisy automobile environment. In other words, it's all about the application and the environment it's going to be used in.
Chad
Quote:
Originally Posted by bikinpunk
Mark's an up late kinda dude. His neighbor has a horse.
Re: Don't laugh...I'm serious....can this be done??
6 1/2" X 5 1/2" X 8" , Primary 0 - 105V - 115V - 125V, Secondary... Dual 28V - Dual 14V and 0, 60 Amps - 30 Amps each side, WEIGHT 40 lbs each $ 45.00
http://www.apexjr.com/new.htm Scroll down, just before the vacuum tubes (or valves on the other side of the big pond)
Thats a good price! I have some nice regulation schematics here I can forward to you from lab supplies. It can be regulated via an assload of driven 2N3055 transistors that can be had for cheap.
Chad
Quote:
Originally Posted by bikinpunk
Mark's an up late kinda dude. His neighbor has a horse.
Re: Don't laugh...I'm serious....can this be done??
Quote:
Originally Posted by chad
6 1/2" X 5 1/2" X 8" , Primary 0 - 105V - 115V - 125V, Secondary... Dual 28V - Dual 14V and 0, 60 Amps - 30 Amps each side, WEIGHT 40 lbs each $ 45.00
http://www.apexjr.com/new.htm Scroll down, just before the vacuum tubes (or valves on the other side of the big pond)
Thats a good price! I have some nice regulation schematics here I can forward to you from lab supplies. It can be regulated via an assload of driven 2N3055 transistors that can be had for cheap.
Re: Don't laugh...I'm serious....can this be done??
so 45x4, 180 watts @ 12v, lets say 220 at 13.8, which is what these power supplies put out
we know P = IV, so 220 = I(13.8) : I = 220/13.8
15.94 amps
lets say 16
you forget efficiency
a/b amps are +/- 50% efficient
so 32 amps
but
then theres duty cycle
lets say youre playing some dynamic music, but its all above 80 hz, itll only be about a 30% duty cycle at full blast
so 30% of 32 = 9.6 amps, lets say 10 for posterity
you should be fine just playing music off the 30 amp supply
figure the same draw for the subamp but with a 50% duty cycle
so figure 16-17 amps
looking at under 30 amp draw at fullllllll volume
add in the headunit, but its a dead head so youll be fine
as long as youre not playing sine waves at full tilt, youll be fine
the revolution is over, and so as to not inconvenience anyone, nothing has changed...
diyma land yacht club co-founder
civic got wrecked.
caprice station wagon about to get some love...
Re: Don't laugh...I'm serious....can this be done??
Quote:
Originally Posted by ludlamtheory
so 45x4, 180 watts @ 12v, lets say 220 at 13.8, which is what these power supplies put out
we know P = IV, so 220 = I(13.8) : I = 220/13.8
15.94 amps
lets say 16
you forget efficiency
a/b amps are +/- 50% efficient
so 32 amps
but
then theres duty cycle
lets say youre playing some dynamic music, but its all above 80 hz, itll only be about a 30% duty cycle at full blast
so 30% of 32 = 9.6 amps, lets say 10 for posterity
you should be fine just playing music off the 30 amp supply
figure the same draw for the subamp but with a 50% duty cycle
so figure 16-17 amps
looking at under 30 amp draw at fullllllll volume
add in the headunit, but its a dead head so youll be fine
as long as youre not playing sine waves at full tilt, youll be fine