PPI 356CS or 2-Way Active Setup?? I Cannot Decide!!

[cannan]

This is my second post, but I've been lurking around for a few months and reading up, why else would I be considering ppi 356CS . Been on here no stop for the past couple of days while I'm trapped inside my house as Snow-magedon is going on outside.

Anyway, I'm not new at this in the general aspect of car audio. I was heavily into it while in high school over 10 years ago, but I'm still coming up to speed on active setups, crossover points, advanced speaker placement, etc. Things have definitely come a long way in the past few years.

I've got a good deal nailed down on a brand new set of PPI 356CS which are highly recommended by folks on here, or I was also considering building up a budget / entry level 2-way active setup (possibly Mach 5 mids, Seas neo tweets). I would say my budget on speakers is $175 and below because either way it most likely won't last more than a year or so before I'll upgrade. I enjoy trying different setups so I'm not married to anything I do right now. Its going into a 94 Integra GS-R and I'm mainly concerned about SQ, I'm definitely not a bass head. I'll be deadening the floors and doors shortly because as we all know these cars are loud as hell, but the budget will be tight for the deadening materials

So my bottom line question would be. What would you do?? Go with the PPI's for the time being because its already good out of the box.....OR.....step out and try to assemble an entry level 2-way active setup and have fun tweaking the settings? I really love the idea of going active because of all the customizing you do with the setup, and switching things in and out for the perfect setup.

[89grand]

Well, you have a 3rd option. Using the PPI's active. They are good speakers so you have nothing to lose.

[TREETOP]

Originally Posted by 89grand

Well, you have a 3rd option. Using the PPI's active. They are good speakers so you have nothing to lose.

Yep. Nothing's preventing you from using the passives at first and going active with the PPIs later either.

[cannan]

Originally Posted by TREETOP

Yep. Nothing's preventing you from using the passives at first and going active with the PPIs later either.

Hhmm, didn't really think of that, pretty obvious though. That seems like a perfect idea, especially since if I'm not mistaken the crossovers have been fetching a couple bucks on re-sale so that is a few more bucks towards other facets of the install.

I really want to try the PPI's too because I want to see what the hell all the hype is about surrounding these speakers that it could generate a 30+ page thread about them .

The most intriguing thing for me with the active setup is the flexibility you have with the setup and the ability to swap things in and out over time for that perfect setup. But running the PPI's in the meantime would give me the ability to continue my education around active setups.

[TREETOP]

Originally Posted by cannan

...especially since if I'm not mistaken the crossovers have been fetching a couple bucks on re-sale so that is a few more bucks towards other facets of the install...

I've sold two sets of 355cs crossovers on eBay for $40 a pair, that was a while ago and I'm not sure what they'd fetch right now but like you said it would offset the cost of other upgrades.

[mattchan2000]

Originally Posted by cannan

Hhmm, didn't really think of that, pretty obvious though. That seems like a perfect idea, especially since if I'm not mistaken the crossovers have been fetching a couple bucks on re-sale so that is a few more bucks towards other facets of the install.

I really want to try the PPI's too because I want to see what the hell all the hype is about surrounding these speakers that it could generate a 30+ page thread about them .

The most intriguing thing for me with the active setup is the flexibility you have with the setup and the ability to swap things in and out over time for that perfect setup. But running the PPI's in the meantime would give me the ability to continue my education around active setups.

If you intend to run passive now and go active in future, do plan your equpiment placement for future add on.Especially cables and wirings. Leaves extra lenght for the driver cause they're going to connect directly to the amp in future.

[koshaw]

Good luck with that! I am also looking for those speakers. Tell us how it works out!

[cannan]

Thanks! I'm putting together a basic order of sound deadening to start doing the doors as soon as snow-mageddon is over here in VA.

[kylebigmac09]

Read up and learn how to do a good deadening job, and that will really set you up for success in the future. As for your speakers, I recommend what has already been suggested: start with passive PPI's and then go active if you desire more.

[koshaw]

BTW does your 'source have any more of these? I have been looking for em with no luck :~(

[angelspeedfreak]

Originally Posted by koshaw

BTW does your 'source have any more of these? I have been looking for em with no luck :~(

You might have to just keep an eye on Ebay. I was able to pickup a NIB set last week for the winning bid of only $138 (great deal IMO).








Good luck to you, keep your eyes out and you can still get a NIB set somewhere for really cheap....

[aV8ter]

I got the 356cs, in my 99 Teg(same gen as yours) and have done both active and passive with the set. I have a good amount of deadening in my doors but they are not sealed.

I actually have regrets about buying these. I will sell you my set right now if you really want them but you might have already gotten a set.

First off, put the tweeters up on the dash/in the a pillars. Mids take ALOT of power to get loud which really annoyed me. They do dig down into the 30-40hz ranged which is nice, but that is what a dedicated sub is for in my opinion.

I do like the tweets how ever. They are not like any silk domes I have ever heard before. They are laid back while keeping the tiniest details of the music still present. They started in my doors but made their way up to the dash after I got bored with them in the stock locations. I strongly suggest running them on the dash. It also saves the hassle of trying to get a second set of speaker wire through each door.

If you have not already purchased the set, I would highly recommend getting a pair of MLI65 mids while they are still $27 a piece. I would pair them with the Vifa XT19 tweeters on the dash/a-pillars to start with.

What amp(s), headunit, and sub(s) you running?




Kevin

[cannan]

Hhmm that is interesting. I do already have my set but I'm not married to keeping them long if I can't get it working the way I want. I know that it is probably going to take some work to get these into the door with the depth, but I'm sure its nothing an MDF ring cannot fix.

At this point I do not have any other equipment for the build, other than the headunit which is an old school rockford RFX-8140. Everything else is still in the planning and saving stage. I'm waiting until the weather warms up in April before I really start purchasing all the equipment.

I'm trying to keep the budget tight so I was originally looking at a US Acoustics USB-4085 through Audio Clinic but I'm still not positive. I knew from reading that these can take alot of power so hopefully that can get me started.

What have you done on your doors for dampening?

[PorkCereal]

The only thing i dont like about the set i picked up in december are the size of the crossovers. Together they are the size of my amps.

[cannan]

I've got space for those, I noticed that they were fairly large. I am pretty positive that I'm at least going to hook these up, and see what all the fuss is all about.

We'll see. Right now I'm just doing some amp researching so I can power these accurately.

[89grand]

I've used the 5.25" a/d/s/ version of these, the tweeters are excellent, assuming the PPI's use the that exact tweeter. The a/d/s/ mid was pretty decent too.

[monkeybutt]

Originally Posted by cannan

I'm trying to keep the budget tight so I was originally looking at a US Acoustics USB-4085 through Audio Clinic but I'm still not positive. I knew from reading that these can take alot of power so hopefully that can get me started.

Good amp for little money from Audio Clinic. Good seller. Got several amps from AC including the 4085. The sound tends to be neutral to a bit brighter and will produce more than rated power. Depending on your listening tastes and/or Eq power it should be a good match for the ppi as that tweeter is pretty neutral.

[cannan]

Sounds like that is my best bet right now to get this project off the ground come spring time. I decent amp for under $100 is hard to beat.

I've also been keeping my eye on some of the Planet Audio BB models, and Lanzar Optidrive's.

[releasedtruth]

I keep coming back to this set as a point of interest, not sure why. Never heard them, but dying to hear what the buzz is about. Same reason I got the ID OEMs, I guess. $138 is a smoking deal.

How big are the tweets? I have some Seas Neos I had to trim a little to make fit in my pillars so not sure how these will work

[cannan]

Originally Posted by releasedtruth

Never heard them, but dying to hear what the buzz is about. Same reason I got the ID OEMs, I guess.

What do you think about the ID OEMs? I've read some really good reviews around here on those. I've looked at those and Mach 5s'.

[releasedtruth]

I've really enjoyed the IDs, still tempted to try the new models. Been running IDs and Seas Neos and the IDs have some serious midbass punch, play up to 2500Hz pretty well. Shame I can't find those 356s many places anymore. I'm a sucker for an experiment.

[freemind]

Give the PPI mids a good 60 hrs to break in. Mine sound much better now(well over 100hre now)than they did at first.