I fully dampened my doors and added ccf and mlv. There are several small and several large holes in the doors still. I need to finish wiring before I close them up.
should I try to cover the small ones and large ones? (except those required to re-attach the door panel of course)
is aluminum tape ok to use for this purpose?
should I add a piece of cld to the center of the larger holes covered in aluminum tape?
Several ways to do and yes it needs to be done. One of the most ingenious ways I've seen is to bolt/screw a stiff piece of plexiglas or something similar for the large holes with strip of thin weatherstripping under the edges. It was suggested that a thin piece of regular dampening material would act more like a passive radiator depending upon how much pressure the door would see. Don't know if that would always be the case, but a good suggestion nonetheless.
The cld I have from Sound Deadoner Showdown is pretty heavy. Not like a speaker cone. But I could see the alum tape could be. If I put a big enough piece of cld on the tape I don't think passive radiators will be a problem.
I will cover the holes with the aluminum tape. then add cld that is at least 25% of the taped area depending on how much cld I have left.
Besides dampening vibrations, the main thing is separation of the backwave especially in adjacent areas. I would do just enough for the vibrations and backwave as there could be a point of diminishing returns considering the cost of materials. If your ride is already solid there is no need to go to the extremes.
best way I have seen it using either hardware cloth (Hardware Cloth - Ace Hardware) or light gauge sheet metal and then use sheet metal screws to cover the holes. then put your cld over it.
Original post whore!
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separation of the backwave especially in adjacent areas.
So what do you install to consider it good "seperation of backwave"? Adjacent meaning "closest to the speaker"?
The aluminum tape I am referring to is inexpensive and I already had it. It is the kind you use for sealing leaks in HVAC ducting. So it is thin compared to sheet metal but fairly easy to remove. being thin and the largest holes being as large as they are it seems like they could have some resonance frequency that is potentially noticeable.
1st pic shows an example of the holes in a ford escape door like mine.
2nd pic shows full cld covering the holes. that looks good.
Given the suggestions, sheet metal formed to fit over the holes and screwed down will be easy to remove as well. The main difference is rigidity, which is entirely important because those large holes are right near the woofer. Although doors are leaky by nature, having a decent panels near the woofer is important nonetheless.
If you make covers, they should be rigid, waterproof and removable. My favorite material for this is fiberglass, especially if the covers can't be perfectly planar. Putting cld on aluminum foil tape is going to help. The concern is that pressure changes inside the door will cause the tape (or any flexible material) to move in and out like a speaker cone. This is the passive radiator effect. It's out of phase with the speaker. cld at the center will just go along for the ride.
I've stopped building covers when I can hang the MLV and CCF on the inner door skin. Ideally you want the trim panel to press these layers against the inner skin which should form a pretty good seal, be quite rigid because the trim panel is rigid and create very good isolation between the front and back wave.
The advantage to not building covers are that it's easier, you don't have to pierce the sheet metal with screws and it's much easier to get back inside the door when you need to. Since it isn't possible to completely seal a door, no matter what you do, you aren't trading terrible for perfect. I put it in the lot of work for little or no gain category, belt and suspenders.
A secondary advantage to the covers, done properly, is that you can strengthen the inner skin. If you put a vibration damping adhesive between the cover and sheet metal before screwing it down you can also create a vibration damper in place.
Still not sure it's worth it and I'm absolutely certain that easy fixes like tape or even CLD alone aren't worth it.
I went the fiberglass route which you can see starting in post #135 in my build thread. I did the whole deal with MLV and CCF too. It made a considerable difference in the amount of road noise coming in through the doors.
I went the fiberglass route which you can see starting in post #135 in my build thread. I did the whole deal with MLV and CCF too. It made a considerable difference in the amount of road noise coming in through the doors.
I like using Cascade Audio VB2-HD. Does a great job sealing large holes, deadens the door and can be removed (with a little heat) incase you need to access the window motor.
do you guys also have deadener inside the on the outer skin. I have some and looks like I will be adding several layers of liquid deadener.
I guess I will try the plexiglass idea. cheaper and I have some at the house. AS for the door holes, I notice some areas around the window that are impossible to seal and of course the drains on the bottom.
I assume that these are not as big of a threat as the large holes.
I was also considering using some insulation I pulled from a cubical wall. thin, but might be good for added sound deadening and even tempeture control???
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Last edited by The real Subzero; 12-07-2012 at 05:35 AM..
covering holes in doors
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