I'm working on replacing the stock speakers and amps in my 2001 corvette. It looks like the peerless 8's will fit in the doors to replace the Bose 8's. Anyone have a better recomendation than the peerless 8's? I'm hopping to use them as subs but if they are not enough, I'll install one the 10w6's I have and use the 8's in the door for midbass. I'd really like it if I didn't have to add a sub in the back and I'm hoping the small cabin will be fine with the 8's. It'd be nice to look stock.
Also in the door right above the 8's are a pair of 3.5's, one on each door. I could possibly fit 4's. Should I get 4's or 3.5's and what make and model is really popular right now?
In the back are a pair of 5.25's. I don't have room to go any bigger than that so I am fairly limited there.
And I have room to add a pair of tweeters behind the door handles which would put them at about mid bicep height I guess when sitting in the car.
Flexible on amps and ohms right now. I'm just trying to get a plan together so I can start ordering the stuff and put the car back together. so ifanyonecan help point mien the right direction I'd really appreciate it.
I listen to a wide variety of music, but lately it's been more electronic- dub step stuff or acoustical type stuff.
Re: Need 3.5 and 5.25 recomendations for peerless 8's
What about a pair of Vifa 3.5's(10rms), Peerless 5.25's(60rms), and a pair of Vifa tweeters? If I give them all close to their proper rms and ohm rating, will they be loud enough or will they be lost by the pair of SLS 8's?
Re: Need 3.5 and 5.25 recomendations for peerless 8's
Peerless 830667
Fountek FR88/89
Vifa XT25SC90
No rear speakers.
If you don't have an active crossover device then you will need to build some passive crossovers to make all this work.
You don't want sub level output in your doors, it will rattle them to death and that sounds bad on the inside and outside of the car. One good 8" in a great enclosure should do the trick. Maybe one of these: Sundown SA-8 v.2 Prototype Completed
Re: Need 3.5 and 5.25 recomendations for peerless 8's
You might could get by with the SLS 8 playing subbass on genres that aren't bass-heavy at lower volumes, but definitely not dubstep. I tried crossing mine @40hz & they did not approve. You'd be much happier with a sub.
This 4" Tang Band widebander is supposed to have great off-axis response...
Re: Need 3.5 and 5.25 recomendations for peerless 8's
Thanks for all of the replies and suggestions. The sls8's showed up and have a slightly larger diameter than I had expected. The diameter is definitely larger than the little flat reverse cone Bose 8" woofer they are replacing. I'm glad I waited to order the rest of the speakers until after I had received them.
So it looks like the only 4" woofer I can find to fit the remaining space is the Dayton Audio RS100T-8 4" because of its truncated frame. It looks like it might actually be a little smaller than most 4" drivers and other 4" truncated drivers, but is larger than all of the 3.5" drivers I looked at. I can't go larger than 3.75" x 5". So if I go with a 4" driver that seems to be my only option. I wanted to go 4" because of the larger surface area and the high rms. I'm worried the 3.5's might not keep up with the 8's very well. I'd like to keep the sound balanced. I almost wish I had gone with a 7 or a 6.5" in the door now instead of the 8's to retain more space for another mid or extended range driver.
So, it looks like the following so far;
-Peerless 830667- have already
-Vifa XT25SC90- Planning to use these. I've read pretty much nothing but good things about these.
Either the 3" 4 ohm Fountek FR88/89 or the 4" 8 ohm Dayton Audio RS100T-8. I read a thing about the Fountek's being copies of H audio or something? Any advice here?
-Maybe one of these: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...completed.html
--That's a nice looking 8, but I have (2) JL 10w6v2's. I was going to try to use the sls'8's in the doors to replace the Bose 8's as sub's first, but I suspect, I'll end up using them as midbass and installing one of the jl 10's in the trunk area per the advise given here about sound and rattles in the doors and such. The other will go in my wife's car.
I just started researching cross overs this last week and from what I've read, maybe a dsp might be the way I'll go. I can bypass the Bose signal processor by jumping some wires. I think that would get me back to a non-Bose equalized signal. The Delco head unit goes to the Bose signal processor, back to the Delco head unit amplifier, out to the speakers.
I currently have (given for free so I'm not too invested) a 4 ch. Fosgate Punch 500x rated at 62.5w x4 at 4 ohms, 125w x4 at 2 ohms or 250w x2 at 4 ohms bridged. I was thinking about bridging 2 channels at 250w to power the 2 sls8's mono at 4 ohms and I guess use the other two channels to run the 3" Fountek driver and the Vifa tweeter 4ohm+4ohm for a 8 ohm load on each channel, left and right? but, then they'd only pull about 31w from the amp? Or I could power the Fountek or the Vifa from the Delco head unit and the other from the remaining channel(s) on the amp, but they'll only get 15-20 rms from the head unit. Does that sound like it would work or is there a better way I should wire them?
If I use the 4" 8 ohm Dayton Audio's they would have to be powered by the amp because the Delco wont give them enough power right?
If I/ when I switch the sls8's to midbass instead of sub I think I'll need to get a different amp as well as purchase an amp for the jl 10 or I could just invest in proper amps now. Trying to finalize drivers, then pick amps.
I think I've probably lost everyone's interest with such a long ramble, but any feed back would be appreciated. I'll post some pictures in a bit, maybe later today.
Re: Need 3.5 and 5.25 recomendations for peerless 8's
That makes sense. I could bridge all 4 channels to 250w x2 at 4ohms which should give me around 125 x2 at 8 ohms for the peerless. Maybe instead of a 50x4 I'll look for a 5 or 6 channel that can power all of these when I add the sub and sub amp.
Re: Need 3.5 and 5.25 recomendations for peerless 8's
I don't think that 4" will fit either. I'll mock it up on my mounting plate template in a little bit. Maybe I could add another mounting ring to make more room.
Here's some pics. There's a small dot top center of my mounting plate template that represents a mounting screw location. It's screwing me out of a 4" driver, maybe I won't use the stock screw location... I would preffer to though.
I plan to mount my tweeter here in the door handle bucket;