Create MDF box for rear components ato replace 6x9
Does it make since to make a custom MDF box for the rear speakers? I am removing my 6x9s and replacing them with components so I know I have to make a custom plate for them to mount on. While Im at it, does it make since to enclose them in a sort of "6x9" box that mount under the rear deck in my car?
Re: Create MDF box for rear components ato replace 6x9
Depends on the drivers you are fitting-most car audio drivers are designed for IB use, so a small box may make them sound worse rather than better. Have you got the TS parameters for them?
Re: Create MDF box for rear components ato replace 6x9
In that case the box would be largely a waste of time. If you can be bothered posting the TS spec for the driver I'll model it to see what box would be best.
Re: Create MDF box for rear components ato replace 6x9
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Baron Groog
In that case the box would be largely a waste of time. If you can be bothered posting the TS spec for the driver I'll model it to see what box would be best.
Sorry, Im a newb at this. How do I determine the TS spec for the drivers (and what is TS spec)?
These are the first generation Alpine type r 6.5 components if that helps.
Re: Create MDF box for rear components ato replace 6x9
The TS spec are the Theile Small parameters-a speaker's equivalent to neck, waist, inside leg etc and are what's needed to see how a speaker will perform in a given box volume. They might come with the speakers on a spec sheet or be downloadable from the net-try Alpine support
Re: Create MDF box for rear components ato replace 6x9
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Baron Groog
The TS spec are the Theile Small parameters-a speaker's equivalent to neck, waist, inside leg etc and are what's needed to see how a speaker will perform in a given box volume. They might come with the speakers on a spec sheet or be downloadable from the net-try Alpine support
I wasnt able to download from Alpine but I did find the following link with a couple of graphs where they talk about the Theile Small characteristics of this speaker. Im not sure which graph is the correct one but if you click on it, then it expands with a lot of info. As a side not I would love to know what you do with this info to determine speaker boxes for future reference.
Re: Create MDF box for rear components ato replace 6x9
If that is a free air chart they are indeed IB tuned as typical. A box unless large will reduce bass output, and odds are they will not make more bass than the 6x9 did unless they were really tight 6x9. A box will take that peak at 100-110Hz and push it to a higher frequency, and you will get less at 80-120hz than it had IB = no midbass.
Far as the sub it depends on what you have, any stock sub will not bother them. If you have some high power sub it will start to push the mids around at high output if in the same trunk space. At that point you kind of have to enclose them. Something like over 300-500w you will have to enclose them.
Many don't agree with me but I would go better 6x9, 7x10, 8x12, round 8s, etc for rears if you have the room. More cone means more midbass, unless you somehow have plenty of it, but just my .01. But if you have those to use you might as well try them.
Pioneer 880PRS~boston comps/alpine coax on Kappa 4 Z~back to Alpine mrd-m500 v12 on pyle 15s IB
Re: Create MDF box for rear components ato replace 6x9
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlasSman
I would just remove the rear speakers all together.
You won't have to worry about any interference from the sub and if you need midbass....put them up front where they belong.
Yeah, Im moving the type R components to the back and replacing them with Focal PS165s
They belong in the back now...lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by sqshoestring
If that is a free air chart they are indeed IB tuned as typical. A box unless large will reduce bass output, and odds are they will not make more bass than the 6x9 did unless they were really tight 6x9. A box will take that peak at 100-110Hz and push it to a higher frequency, and you will get less at 80-120hz than it had IB = no midbass.
Far as the sub it depends on what you have, any stock sub will not bother them. If you have some high power sub it will start to push the mids around at high output if in the same trunk space. At that point you kind of have to enclose them. Something like over 300-500w you will have to enclose them.
Many don't agree with me but I would go better 6x9, 7x10, 8x12, round 8s, etc for rears if you have the room. More cone means more midbass, unless you somehow have plenty of it, but just my .01. But if you have those to use you might as well try them.
The sub that I have is a 10" Alpine type R and it has 400watts going to it. I am curious, how do i take that chart and determine what size box would be necessary? I want to know for future reference.
Re: Create MDF box for rear components ato replace 6x9
I don't know how if you can't get T/S specs on them, its just a trial and error thing then. Far as them moving in the deck, crank the sub up and watch them.
I still would run big mids or midbass in the rear it adds midbass and take stress off the fronts....providing you don't have big midbass in front already. Check out the thread about midbass arrays by patrick its really interesting about multiple midbass use. I also run some mid/highs back there for passengers and aim them back, I never hear them unless I turn them up all the way. Also is much better if you ever listen outside the car I can hardly hear the fronts alone. But your choice lot of people don't run rears. To me any big mid is free midbass if I use or not.
Pioneer 880PRS~boston comps/alpine coax on Kappa 4 Z~back to Alpine mrd-m500 v12 on pyle 15s IB
Create MDF box for rear components ato replace 6x9
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