I have a GTO 3EZ which makes 350@4ohm or 500@2ohm and am looking at either the power P1022, MS10, or a pair of MS10 slims. I'm not wanting to add a lot of weight so the single MS10 would probably be the lightest but I don't know if I should give it 350w or 500w.
Power 1022: high xmax, ran a 1020d in the past and loved it but its heavy.
MS10: lower xmax, light weight, have seen listed at 300w and 600w rms, which is it?
Pair of MS10 slims: RMS matches perfect to amp, higher cost and would be the largest box.
Looks like the MS10 would be the best with my concerns just worried about lack of impact.
Yeah i read that review and it seems pretty nice, i really just want to know if i would be better off sending 350w or 500w to it. I think 350w is probably going to be plenty. I wish i could find another P1020 though.
I'm actually debating on one of those GTO-3EZ amps for the W10Gti and MS-62c comp set - I hear most JBL subs are quite efficient in terms of not requiring tons of power.
I'm using a GTO1214 350W RMS (about 87db 1w/1m), which was their level above the GT5 (intro-level) sub and it is great on 280W. I can pretty much max it out in an slightly over sized sealed enclosure. Not sure if this is indicative of all JBL subs, but the MS has pretty similar ratings.
But if I had it to do again I think I would do the power series and opt for the dual 4ohm.
I'm actually debating on one of those GTO-3EZ amps for the W10Gti and MS-62c comp set - I hear most JBL subs are quite efficient in terms of not requiring tons of power.
W10Gti would be sweet but would take up my whole trunk in the FR-S lol. It would look sweet if i did it IB though.
If you can fit the Power, I'd run it, it's closest relative is the GTi, not the MS... I looked at both the MS and the P when I bought mine, and sorta had the same hangup you are... I didn't really understand where the MS fit into their lineup (now, with the MS-SLIMS, that's obviously different, but the standard MS I didn't understand). The specs didn't look favorable to the Power, really any of 'em if I recall.
500W to a Power... That'd be my vote, I run 450W to a P1224 in a ported box and it wasn't hitting it's X-max with a -0dB sine wave.
'10 Toyota Corolla S → Dynamat Xtreme & Cascade VB2 → Clarion CZ500 ⱡ JBL GTE422 22-Band EQ ⱡ JBL P660C 6.5" ⱡ RF Punch 200-2 ⱡ JBL P1224 ported 2.3ft^3 @ 28Hz ⱡ RF Punch 300-1 ← 2Ω, all of it
I honestly dont think youre taking a risk with the ms. Since you had the power already, you probably want to change. It gets good reviews and made by jbl = low probability for disappointment.
Then again the power is proven but hate the aesthetics and would look for a new old stock (1200 watts on cone) before installing that huge gasket.
Id do 2 ohms. Pretty sure JBL wouldnt put out an new amp that would overheat easily.
I honestly dont think youre taking a risk with the ms. Since you had the power already, you probably want to change. It gets good reviews and made by jbl = low probability for disappointment.
Then again the power is proven but hate the aesthetics and would look for a new old stock (1200 watts on cone) before installing that huge gasket.
Id do 2 ohms. Pretty sure JBL wouldnt put out an new amp that would overheat easily.
Yeah i have been looking for the old power, the P1020D is what i had and is what you are describing. The MS is a lot more lightweight though and i'm not wanting to add too much weight (Scion FR-S) so i guess i'm going to get it with a fiberglass corner trunk enclosure.
By the way, the MS-series subwoofer documentation says xmax is measured as the excursion before the THD goes above 10%. Many or most other subwoofer manufacturers measure xmax simply as (height of voice coil winding - height of magnetic gap) divided by 2. The result is sometimes multiplied by a factor of 1.15mm or similar. The two measures need not be the same.
PS: Ok, never mind. It does seem like the xmax is pretty small by the other measure too. The MS series manual does seem to have this information.
For all versions the gap height is 8mm. For the 10 inch MS sub, the coil winding length is 20mm. Apply the formula times 1.15, you get 6.32mm xmax. For the 12 inch and 15 inch D2 subwoofers, the winding length is 21mm, resulting in 7.47mm xmax, and for the 12 inch D4 sub, it's 22mm resulting in about 8mm xmax.
So the output can't be very high (at least when THD is below 10%). I assume the only way this sub can redeem itself for this shortcoming is by having good transient response.
That is surprisingly low for a modern subwoofer. Though low xmax subs do tend to sound a little better usually, Id be curious to why JBL decided to do a low xmax sub this day and age.
Well, Stereojunkies and jsketoe are using Focal 33KX subs and with 11mm "only", they both states that they go much lower than other high Xmax they used in the past...
Guess there's more than just Xmax
Kelvin
PS: but yeah, JBL doesn't overrate anything - just look @ the Klippel test of the 660Gti
Xmax figure is actually underrated
Lycan
Quote:
I'll repeat it for the miliionth time : All amps do NOT sound the same ... It's astonishing to me that nobody understands this
If it was 6mm each way for 12mm xmax i would be fine with it but 6mm total is really low, some 6.5" mids have 6mm xmax. I really need to go see Todd at TC Audio and show him the trunk and see what he recommends, IB seems like it would be pretty easy but the GTi would take up a ton of space.
MS10 in fiberglass enclosure $450
2 MS10 slims in MDF box $350
GTi 10 IB $240 for sub, no idea what IB will cost.
Sorry if I wasn't paying attention but doesn't the GTO line have about 14mm of xmax (one way)? Is there a reason for it not being an option?
I've used Pioneer and Memphis (PR and MClass)subs in the past and they were pretty efficient, at least back then. The Memphis MClass sub did well of 2-400w rms and can sound very nice with good impact in a .5-1cf sealed enclosure too.
I've always wanted to try those older JBL power (1000/1200 on dustcap) subs but I have more junk than I can use already...
Well, if you ever get a chance to scoop some up go for it. I'll be starting a build log most likely tomorrow with those and the jbl p660c. i have everything installed now but will be starting the process of making it permanent.
But ya, Those are great sounding subs. Have not heard the newer models but but i did throw a couple sealed gto 8's in the wife's kia. sounds good for what it is.
"What screws us up the most in life is the picture in our head of how it is supposed to be."
Just took some measurements, the Gti 10 actually may work IB without taking up my whole trunk, my amp would give it 425w too. I think that may be the route out i take since the MS may not give me the output i want with the low excursion.
JBL 10" sub, MS vs Power
Linear Mode
