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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #1
 
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Red face repost question about amp replacements

I realized that this would be the proper location for this question. Sorry for the double posting.


I have RF 800a4 and 800a2 amps that have finally failed me. What are the modern day equivalence of these power/quality wise? I have had sony Mobile ES and Autotek(made in usa era) amps in my past $20K+ builds.

I am looking for similar output and cooler running would be nice also, as the fans I have mounted are not that quiet.

I can get away with less sub power for now, but a 125x4 for my mains is desired as well as 500w for the sub, or more, would be good to me.

My other option for mains would be a 250x2 amp witht he same 500+ on the sub.

Only caveat is that I need high level inputs, so I can keep the stock HU with it's camera, USB, AUX inputs and BT utilization.

I have never used hi in with a stock HU, so this is a new requirement for me to have.

I am use to output to be in the 125db range and would like the efficient power on tap to reach that level again. Not too much to ask is it?

Thanks in advance for any input.
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Old 4 Weeks Ago   #2
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Default Re: repost question about amp replacements

Neither of your requests are hard to match. If using the factory head unit I would really consider a dsp to tame rhe factory output and then some decent amps. I think a dsp with lesser amps would gain you more than just amps alone. What is your budget?
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Default Re: repost question about amp replacements

What vehicle?

Amp recommendation:
Phoenix Gold Ti2 1600.5
125w x 4 + 500w x 1 @4ohm. 5 channels
Very versatile bandpass capable crossovers and variable subsonic filter. RCA inputs are balanced differential and will accept speaker level signals... just need rca pigtails.
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Default Re: repost question about amp replacements

JL audio Slash amps would be my suggestion. Something like a 300/4 and 500/1. Readily available on the used market for a great price.

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Old 3 Weeks Ago   #5
 
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Default Re: repost question about amp replacements

car is a 2015 Honda Fit LX.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Garyhoffmann View Post
Neither of your requests are hard to match. If using the factory head unit I would really consider a dsp to tame rhe factory output and then some decent amps. I think a dsp with lesser amps would gain you more than just amps alone. What is your budget?
I went digging through my audio stuff and found a new peripheral interface components ven4.5 line output converter, which is a 4 channel with what I am guessing are resistor pots used for adjusting the level attenuation on each channel. Not the best solution and probably why I never used it. lol

I also have a 30 band eq, I had it's guts mounted in plexi and I forget what brand it is, but the PCB has RU(K) KM1-V0 on it. (It's around a 2002 model of whatever brand that is) It is a decnet piece from what I remember, but ended up using fiber optic with the Mobile ES stuff, so it is new also. lol It is balanced RCA input only though.

Also have a MA Audio HK1998, which given it's 90 amp fuse and what I remember it doiing on 4 10's, was a decent amp for the money, but needed about twice the output so back in the box it went. It is rca input only also.


So at this point, I may just need a decent LOC, then use the 30 band, the HK1998 and just need a new amp for the mains.

I have a calibrated UMIK6 (I think it is) and SPL 8810 for testing, but haven't played with that in several years.


I have honestly had only 3 real systems and insurance paid out about 35k between the 2 I had stolen (that was a pita for sure when the car cost less than the stereo in it lol), and the RF amps are left over from what I had in my other system. So, I have not done a low budget buld before.

With all thet babbling said, I may just need a basic LOC to go into the 30 band to go into the main amp and the HJK1998 sub amp. That would utilize all of the old stuff I have laying around. Would that be the cheapest and best sonding route for the same cash though? I think I just confused myself.

I will look at those amps next. Thanks for the input.

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Default Re: repost question about amp replacements

That PG amp looks amazing, will need to see what they are going for and if it will fit in my spot.

JL amps also seem to have nice flexibility, but again will need to see if they are available.

I spend almost 2 hours a day in my car, so I need something soon. Time to check craigslist I guess.

What is a decent LOC and or DSP these days? I think I can use my eq if I just had a decent LOC.

I just saw a couple old Xtant amps on ebay that I am now drooling over! lol

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Default Re: repost question about amp replacements

Now the site is letting me post again, my speakers are not that great, but are new.

I read reviews which made me think they were good sounding, but I am not impressed at all. I have 4 ID CTX6.5 in well treated doors and a bad ass little 10" that does 14mm stroke. It is some Al cone thing that I forget what brand, but is a champ and will do 124dB open space in a ported box at 6 feet ground plane before getting funky. That was using 2K watt PA amp bandpass 30-80 Hz.
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Default Re: repost question about amp replacements

I think I have a amp to use for a bit, so I need to deal with the hi/lo input issue. It doesn't seem like there are any decent cheap options out there and I saw a guys cadence (CADENCE DSP4.8) in the classifieds. Are those any good? I have some old components of theirs that were not bad, but a couple of their amps I put in others cars that were anemic.

here it is on ebay for reference
CADENCE DSP4.8 CAR AUDIO 8-CHANNEL CIRRUS LOGIC 192KHZ DIGITAL SOUND PROCESSOR | eBay

Then I ran across this on ebay. Looks about perfect to me, for my simple system needs.

MATCH DSP 6-CHANNEL HIGH-END COMPACT 6-CHANNEL PROCESSOR, HELIX FAMILY BRAND NEW | eBay

I have no experience with that company, so I have no idea if that is a good buy or not.

The Cadence is much cheaper, used on here, and looks to have about the capabilities.

Any thoughts?
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Default Re: repost question about amp replacements

I got a old MA M489i amp to go with the MA HK1998 for the time being. Until I get things sorted out I will keep the ID for mains, but may put in my old Focal 5K sets, or the silver flutes and SB acoustics tweets sitting in the boxes in my closet.

As I look at my old EQ, and how nice it is, albeit antiquated, I have come to realize that buying a decent hi/lo cost more than I had expected and going with a modern offering with full DSP capabilities would be a smarter decision ultimately. I was trying to stay cheap and simple by using old eq, but I didn't expect the RF to start failing after such a short while in this car. I guess sitting on the shelf for several years finally killed them. I will probably tear into the RF in a couple weeks to see if I popped some caps or what happened, but I think the mosfet's bit the dust.

So, this has now become a quest for a budget/quality dsp that takes hi lvl inputs.
I am searching the site and there is months of info to comb through, so if anyone would care to save me lots and lots of time trying to decipher what is the best option for me and weed out all the internet heros that don't know shit, but talk a god game, then please feel free to school me on what I should be looking at.

Thanks for the help thus far and for the future input.
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Default Re: repost question about amp replacements

FML 3 verbose paragraphs I was typing and sent to post on here just vanished. The site hates my pc.

ATTN NOOB QUESTION HERE!!! LOL

Basics of my simple system: 2015 Honda FitLX, using factory HU, old RF 800a4 running a 2x1 config, 4 new ID CTX6.5, old 10” sub, old Alphasinik2.5 cap,

I am not an install noob, have been doing it since the mid 90's (but haven’t done anything in several years) and worked for a mobile ausio shop back in the day too.

BUT I have never used a factory HU to feed the signal to an amp, hence the noob question. Where is my issue? The amp not liking it's hi input, bad luck, old ass gear, obamacare, bad wiring? I am at a loss.

Do I just need a LOC or there other issues plaguing me here?

so...... The RF 800a4 is good with line lvl input, but puts out dc, then goes to protect mode, then DC, then protect... in a steady cycle a few times a second when the speaker lvl input is used. This happens most of the time but not always, and the rear/sub will go first, but then the front left side will do the same thing, but at a lesser degree due to driver dynamics. The amp also gets really hot (heatsink over 135°f ish lol) within a minute on the input side when using the speaker inputs. I have it wired to use the front input to power the R/L mains @ 2ish ohms and the back 2 bridged for the sub @ 4 ohms. So it should put out 200x2 and 400x1, given that the power reserves are adequate.

When the amp is powered up, but receiving no input signal because the HU is off, or whether the HU is on and playing, the end result is the same so long as the 2 molex connectors are plugged in. But some times the amp just kicks butt and plays everything all nice and pretty like. Lol

So I need a solution so I can keep the factory HU.

Based upon this I think that I need a hi/lo unit that will at the least do only that, and at the most will have full dsp functionallity like YPAO or AUDYSSEY.?
Is there a hi/lo that will do something like take hi and perform well while using factory HU while compensating for the factory fail?

Please and thank you for everyone’s input regarding this.
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Default Re: repost question about amp replacements

If you are going to venture into the DSP world as a way to get your HU to play nice with your amp, then i would suggest picking up a used HelixDSP. They are only a couple years old, and are awesome. People are selling them cheap in order to upgrade to the Helix DSP Pro. Should be able to find one for 325ish.

If not then why not pick up a rockford BLD...it will do what you want and can be found for $40ish

RF-BLD - Balanced Line Driver | Rockford Fosgate®.

Finally...from your post above it sounds to me like you have something wired wrong...is that possible? something loose maybe?

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Default Re: repost question about amp replacements

I've been out of town for a week, but will try messing with things again this week. I have the speaker lines delivering signal to the amp, tested all 4 pairs, so that's not the issue. I am assuming it is just the amp at this point. I plugged in my mp3 to the rca's on the amp and it sounds great, made the system sound like it should and gave me hope. I had no idea that the stock HU could have been so lousy.

I will keep an eye out for the Helix. Are there any other units that I should look for also?

Thanks for your time.

Quote:
Originally Posted by miniSQ View Post
If you are going to venture into the DSP world as a way to get your HU to play nice with your amp, then i would suggest picking up a used HelixDSP. They are only a couple years old, and are awesome. People are selling them cheap in order to upgrade to the Helix DSP Pro. Should be able to find one for 325ish.

If not then why not pick up a rockford BLD...it will do what you want and can be found for $40ish

RF-BLD - Balanced Line Driver | Rockford Fosgate®.

Finally...from your post above it sounds to me like you have something wired wrong...is that possible? something loose maybe?
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Default Re: repost question about amp replacements

I just bought a LC2i for the hi/low and will wait to see what that does for the amps. Hope it does what I need and I will be using the 30 band EQ after it in the signal stream.

I am still looking into LOC/DSP though, would like to have a unicorn for my daily.
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Default Re: repost question about amp replacements

I've got a Honda Accord that's running one Ti21600.5, and will soon be adding a second to run one on each side of the car. Great amps with lots of power! The birth sheets put the sub channel on both at 920 watts at 2 ohms! I bought them after I sold my old car that ran a trio of X series Xtant amps (X603, X604 and X1001).
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Default Re: repost question about amp replacements

Quote:
Originally Posted by lashlee View Post
I've got a Honda Accord that's running one Ti21600.5, and will soon be adding a second to run one on each side of the car. Great amps with lots of power! The birth sheets put the sub channel on both at 920 watts at 2 ohms! I bought them after I sold my old car that ran a trio of X series Xtant amps (X603, X604 and X1001).
Thanks for the info. Does that Ti amp seem to run cool, hot or about average?
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Default Re: repost question about amp replacements

I've got a dakota digital temp gauge on it and I've never seen it above 114 degrees F. I don't jam too hard too often but I'd expect it to run pretty cool for most people.
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Default Re: repost question about amp replacements

Quote:
Originally Posted by lashlee View Post
I've got a dakota digital temp gauge on it and I've never seen it above 114 degrees F. I don't jam too hard too often but I'd expect it to run pretty cool for most people.
That's nice and cool, could run all day at that temp, gotta love class D. I've never had any cool running amps like that int eh past.
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