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Home depot "dynamat" for real this time?

329K views 275 replies 83 participants last post by  Weigel21 
#1 ·
Picked up a couple rolls of this today, butyl with aluminum. Feels very very much like some of the expensive stuff out there....though I'm no conniseur.

I've always had the theory that the sound deadening we're sold it high priced re-branded some sort of industrial use something or other.

Anyway, this stuff =comes to a little over a buck a square foot. vs. 4$ or so for the name brand stuff.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...og.beans.EndecaDataBean@69a15904&ddkey=Search

Anyone seen this yet? tried it? I was going to do my floor today, but installed an extra sub and another pair of 1KW amps....I'm not sure what happened exactly, I guess I got a little sidetracked. I won't get a chance to put this in til late next week now, but for 16$ someone else ought to compare it to the name brand stuff (like someone who has name brand stuff floating around)
 
#3 ·
Picked up a couple rolls of this today, butyl with aluminum. Feels very very much like some of the expensive stuff out there....though I'm no conniseur.

I've always had the theory that the sound deadening we're sold it high priced re-branded some sort of industrial use something or other.

Anyway, this stuff =comes to a little over a buck a square foot. vs. 4$ or so for the name brand stuff.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...og.beans.EndecaDataBean@69a15904&ddkey=Search



Anyone seen this yet? tried it? I was going to do my floor today, but installed an extra sub and another pair of 1KW amps....I'm not sure what happened exactly, I guess I got a little sidetracked. I won't get a chance to put this in til late next week now, but for 16$ someone else ought to compare it to the name brand stuff (like someone who has name brand stuff floating around)

It's not really the same type of adhesive in Second Skin, but I would venture to say it's close to or identical to Raam Mat or B Quiet. Here's a section of text I took from the link you gave:

"rubberized asphalt adhesive"

In my opinion I would use this instead of anything but Dynamat Extreme and Second Skin. It should work!
 
#5 ·
I used PEEL & SEAL from Lowe's on my Mazda CX-7 and it have been working perfectly, no peel off at all, holds strong. 36" x 33.5' Roll for $80

My old Dynamat feel off on my trunk in my old car, PEEL and SEAL haves more sticky glue.





 
#191 ·
Would you use this for the doors as well, or just floor of the car?
Please let me know I'm interested of trying it out and putting it on my doors and trunk :)
 
#8 ·
Well, that's news to me. I don't know that I've seen anyone else equate Raammat BXT to peal and seal. I don't have any SS or Dynamat on hand to compare, but I do have Raammat BXT and can say it doesn't act or smell like asphalt mat that I used back in the 1990's. Everything I've read seems to claim it is butyl only with no asphalt.

However, it is sticky as hell when it's hot, and it will gum up a knife. it does clean up with goo gone though. I've not seen any problems with it sticking though. So far, it has worked well. I'm applying my remaining 40+ sq ft tomorrow in my front doors.
 
#9 ·
I used peal and seal on the trunk floor of my Civic and I won't be using any more. My car smelled like I was having a commercial grade roof installed for weeks after using this stuff. I will probably go with Second Skin for the doors, and possibly some other noise killing stuff for the floor. Rather than diving in all at once, I am doing my older car in stages!

Unfortunately, all is on hold while waiting to see what hurricane Gustav is going to do.
 
#23 ·
That's weird maybe Peel N Seal comes in 2 models, becuase mine I have no smell at all. But on my new car I will rammat and ensolite just because looks more nicer for Car Audio competitions.

Peel n Seal worked perfectly on my CX-7 door, no ratles and the outside noise lowered , the 8" Dayton woofer hits hard with no ratles at all, what else do you want from an insulation?
 
#10 ·
Sorry...link works for me, but from home depot.com type "quick roof" in the search bar and it'll come up.

Does have a slight asphalt scent (but nothing like the stuff we used in the 90's!).

The last home depot product I used was "protecto-wrap" which is pure butyl but with no foil. Never could find the peel n' seal, but then again, we don't have lowes around here.
 
#15 ·
The smell was not that bad, but you could indeed tell that there was an asphalt smell somewhere in the vehicle.

Also, thanks for the prayers. I am not in a mandatory evacuation area, but I am sure I will see some high wind and rain no matter where the storm goes.
 
#16 ·
I used some form of peel and seal from HD and it had little to no odor. What tiny odor there was, disappeared after a couple days. The only problem is that it runs. I would only use it on the trunk floor or someplace non-critical.
 
#19 ·
You don't want to use it here on anything vital. Texas gets way too hot. It may not smell, but I'll show you what the bottom of my trunk looks like now. It's a gooey mess. I'm glad I used the real thing in my doors.
 
#20 ·
Flashing tape? There are companies out there that can even custom make butyl based 'flashing tape' with copper facing/backing!
You can also get flashing tape backed with EPDM instead of foil, or layer both the aluminum and EPDM to get a barrier type effect going. I don't know of an industrial/commercial place that sells flashing tape but there are quite a few companies out there who make them and most are butyl based to withstand the heat of its intended uses, usually roofing or exterior building sealing.
 
#25 ·
Rubberized asphalt is NOT butyl. All asphalt products of this type have rubber compounds mixed in, so this product is ASPHALT.

It sounds like there may have been a problem with some of the RAAMmat some of you received. I also recall that when you've brought it up in other threads, the owner of RAAMaudio has jumped in with offers to make it good. I know in the past, this has included compensation for replacing defective material. It really does suck if substandard product made it out of his door and into your cars, but I have tested many samples of RAAMmat over the years and it has all been butyl with NO detectable asphalt content. Somewhat gooier butyl than Dynamat Xtreme and noticeably gooier than Second Skin and Cascade.

It really distresses me to see people endorsing Peel & Seal, FatMat and other asphalt products for automotive sound deadener use - especially on DIYMA. Anybody reading this thread and considering following this path should do a search. The deficiencies of asphalt have been established beyond any doubt. Here's the real irony. Asphalt is much less effective than butyl. Much less of a proper butyl/aluminum foil product will do the same job as much more asphalt. Asphalt is no cheaper in use, requires much more work to install and is subject to failure. To add insult to injury (actually injury to insult) the fumes are toxic. There is no legitimate reason to use it. People perpetuate this nonsense because it is cheaper per square foot - an almost completely worthless metric.

Some people will insist on using asphalt regardless of the facts so let's look at the logic of using FatMat in particular - as a way to gain some insight into the thought processes of those who endorse this particular product. FatMat is sold as a side line by a roofing supplies distributor. They are an authorized dealer of MFM products, including Peel & Seal.

Peel & Seal and FatMat are indistinguishable except for a cheesy blue logo that gets inked onto FatMat. People complain about it coming off on their hands all the time. I have challenged the owner of FatMat to describe any difference between the two products and he has declined. They measure and test identically. This means that the people who buy FatMat are paying extra to have someone ship them exactly the same material they can buy at Lowe's for less.

Using asphalt in a car is utter foolishness. The way to save money on sound deadening is to use less. There actually are some decent quality butyl/aluminum foil flashing tapes that will work pretty well. Only problem is that they are very thin - 1/3 to 1/2 the thickness of products intended for sound deadening. When you compensate for this, they are no cheaper. Butyl is very expensive. Either the markup isn't as great as some seem to think it is or Industrial suppliers mark their products up as much as sound deadening companies.

I've been looking for cheaper alternatives for years and they really don't exist. You are either going to buy crap at a low price/ft² or you are going to pay a little more. Look at the the ² versions of eDead. People like to believe that these products are comparable to more expensive competitors and that ED is just a bunch of great guys or buys in such volume that they can sell their product for less. No! They buy a product that uses much cheaper Mylar instead of the far superior but more expensive aluminum foil used by the others. They charge less because eDead costs them less and once again you get what you pay for.
 
#43 ·
I only support people using asphalt based mat since it seems that most manufacturers are selling asphalt based mat and passing it off as buty. I had an issue with Raam Mat, told Rick about it and never heard anything back. I sold the two rolls I bought, made the mistake of trusting another compay that claims butyl and it's indistinguishable from Raam Mat...B Quiet Ultimate was the brand. I have heard many people asking if I tried the mineral spirits test, well cleaning the utilifty knife off took a little bit of Goo Gone aka orange flavored mineral spirits.

As a non scientific guess, Raam Mat and B quiet are asphalt based, get you , your car and everyone helping you covered in the stuff and it comes off with mineral spirits. I think that if someone is buying a particular product that is advertised as butyl, but is obviously something different then they might as well run to Home Depot and know what they are getting. I would rather see someone pay for low end products then pay for mid end products and receive low end products.
 
#26 ·
for those that havn't had any issues with peel n seal and similar products is your vehicle a lighter color by any chance?

my truck is black and it gets pretty hot in centeral arkansas but no raammat failure yet.
 
#27 ·
That's a good point, but it isn't the entire explanation. All of these asphalt products will melt ~ 180°F - 190°F when new. My light silver car can get to 160°F when parked in the sun for a few hours on a 95°F day here in Maryland. A dark car will add something close to 20° under the same circumstances. That's getting perilously close to disaster and explains many of the short term failures.

What complicates things is that the "rubberized compounds" added to the asphalt to increase heat resistance deteriorate over time and exposure to temps significantly lower than that initial 180°F - 190°F heat tolerance. As the rubber deteriorates, the heat tolerance decreases. This is why the most common failure time frame is 2 - 3 summers out. Once the melt temperature falls to 140° or so, it is pretty hard to avoid. Many people tout the use of a heat gun as part of "proper" installation technique for asphalt. It may be necessary to promote short term adhesion, but the heat actually accelerates the deterioration of the rubber stabilizers.

Interestingly, extreme heat - just below melting, say 160°F or so, for an extended period of time can actually render the asphalt permanently stable by driving out all of the VOC's, leaving the material inert and brittle. This makes it an even less effective vibration damper than it was in its flexible state, but it accounts for most of the cases of long term success, but it is really the luck of the draw.

None of this matters. Even if asphalt were 100% reliable, it would still be a poor choice because it is no more effective per dollar spent than butyl. Since it requires more labor to compensate for its poor performance an difficult installation characteristics, it is an even poorer value. When you consider that is is no where close to reliable, it quickly becomes apparent that it is a terrible choice.
 
#28 ·
Have any of you tried or heard of Mcmaster Carr? http://www.mcmaster.com/
They carry a huge variety of industrial products. I used some of their Dynamat-like product and also closed-cell foam (I think it was around 1" thick) a few years ago with good results. The thing I like about their catalog is it lists the NRC (noise reduction coefficient) for each product and technical info on each product's composition. Go to "acoustical insulation" and "acoustical and vibration damping insulation" to see some of these products.
 
#30 ·
Rudeboy is 100% on it.

I use Scosche Accumat AMT060. Butyl and foil. Can't tell it apart from Dynamat Extreme. If anything it may stick better, if that is possible. And I get it for dealer cost. :)
 
#31 ·
Fwiw, I used rammatt 2 summers ago in my doors....about 60 sq ft. Pulled one of the mids out to fix a lose wire about a month ago. Looked just like the day I installed it. My car is red and this summer hasn't been bad here in the north but last summer was bad. Again this is only my experience and yours may vary.
 
#39 ·
Well, I just did my passenger side front door this afternoon and probably applied somewhere around 20 sq ft of raammat. Will be doing the same tomorrow on the driver side. Glad to hear some others chime in to help defend raammat, as I was pretty certain I had only read that it was pure butyl product.
 
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