would the kicker push a single voice coil 3ohm 12w7 as good as the jl 1000
would i be able to tell a big diffrence if the jl did push the w7 better
which one is more efficient?
tried to search for this but the search engine wasn't working for me
thanks to anyone that helps
i am also asking cause i've been saving up for a jl 1000 and that would take about 3 to 4 more months
but i recently came up on a deal were i can get the kicker 1000.1 for 100 dollars and i can do that by this friday
so let me know what you guys think?
just a mcintosh mc425 and jl 12inch w7 so far
but im gon get'er dun
Before I had the rest of my install done, I was running the JL 1000/1(v2) of a stock electrical system. Although it did kill my electrical systems, surprisingly my lights didnt dim anymore than they used to with my old 200x2 kenwood amp. So as far as electrical system, depending on your car and whether or not your doing future upgrades you should be fine.
as far as rms power, Ive always believed that JL watts are true watts. The JL has a regulated power supply, which should be your biggest deal breaker at this point. The JL will put out 1000 watts into any ohm load(between 1.5-4), so you know your sub will always be seeing 1000 watts. The kicker puts out 1000 into 2 ohms, so your sub will probably get more like ~850.
in my opinion, do exactly as 60ndown said. Grab the 1000.1 (make sure you test it before you buy if possible), run it for a few month. If you like it, keep it. If you dont, save up money and buy the JL. I love my 1000/1 but it was a shit load of money and probably could have gotten close to the same performance with something a little cheaper.
Before I had the rest of my install done, I was running the JL 1000/1(v2) of a stock electrical system. Although it did kill my electrical systems, surprisingly my lights didnt dim anymore than they used to with my old 200x2 kenwood amp. So as far as electrical system, depending on your car and whether or not your doing future upgrades you should be fine.
as far as rms power, Ive always believed that JL watts are true watts. The JL has a regulated power supply, which should be your biggest deal breaker at this point. The JL will put out 1000 watts into any ohm load(between 1.5-4), so you know your sub will always be seeing 1000 watts. The kicker puts out 1000 into 2 ohms, so your sub will probably get more like ~850.
in my opinion, do exactly as 60ndown said. Grab the 1000.1 (make sure you test it before you buy if possible), run it for a few month. If you like it, keep it. If you dont, save up money and buy the JL. I love my 1000/1 but it was a shit load of money and probably could have gotten close to the same performance with something a little cheaper.
The kickers tend to be underrated. I had a 750.1 that birthed at 900 rms and a friend of mine had a 1000 that did over 1300.
whichever one is Class D is probably going to work better for your system, if they are both Class D you can probably run either and not tell the difference, imho..
if you get 1300 out of Kicker at 2 ohms, you will be close enough in power at 3 ohms to compete with the JL and you'll be enjoying your system now as opposed to later.
Kicker has a decent reputation as far as longevity from what I've heard and read, but I don't own any of their newer product.. it's really a matter of whether that amp is working properly or not, 100 bucks is a steal of a deal imo.
The 1000/1 will tear apart the Kicker 1000.1. However, for a 1000/1 to work properly you will need to do upgrades. It's a current hog. But they EASILY match the output of the Kicker 1500.1
The 1000/1 will tear apart the Kicker 1000.1. However, for a 1000/1 to work properly you will need to do upgrades. It's a current hog. But they EASILY match the output of the Kicker 1500.1
Jay
how much db difference do you suppose can be had, without alternator upgrades?
I suspect that most standard charging systems running a 1000 watt class A/B amp will be current-starved.
So you have a chance to put in a Class D amp that at 3 ohms, puts out a respectable 850 watts, and draws 1/3 the amperage, I believe in this scenario the Class D will kick the A/B butt, based on being able to provide 100% power from the alternator.
would be interested to know if anyone has made this comparison, I probably should have searched in the forum for the answer, haha..
for 100 buck the kicker would be very hard to beat..... but IMO the JL is a far Cleaner amp.. totally different league.. although it does require a little more current than a Traditional class D amp... because of the RIPS system....
Team Miller Team Lone Wolf.
Dodge Neon, Arc Se X4, JL Audio, Scan Speak, HAT, Carputer, PS-8, In dash sub, Yada, Yada, Yada.....
2012 Impala, DEH-P01, Audison,HAT,JL.
I would be surprised if the guy could tell which amp was better in a A-B blind test, and he can always get his money out of the amp by selling it if he found it wasn't strong enough.
I find it surprising that nobody wants to say the Kicker is good enough, especially when you take into account what it would cost to run the JL in alternator upgrades. If they bench at 1300 watts into 2 ohms, that would mean they probably run at least 700 watts at 4 ohms, which, if you bounce the needle in a 3 ohm load puts it at JL's 1000 watt thermal rating, and the same power that RIPS gives off of a 1000/1.
How the JL "tears it apart" is a mystery to me.
A quick check on ebay has the JL selling new for around 650 bucks, and the Kicker for 360.
290 bucks difference, for the priviledge of owning JL is a bit rich if the guy is saving up for 3-4 months to get an amp, imho..
Simple answer? Kicker lies about the amp's output.
If the 1000/1 is actually 1000 watts, and I've done 1500.1's on same speakers/box and car, and 1000/1 on the same speakers/box/car, it is far stronger on the 1000/1. Also, the 1000/1 will make the same power from 1.5 to 4 ohms, the kicker 1000.1 will make like 750 on 3 ohms. Since it beats out an amp rated at 500 watts more than itself, the 1000/1 is either SEVERELY underated, or the kicker is OVERrated.
Simple answer? Kicker lies about the amp's output.
If the 1000/1 is actually 1000 watts, and I've done 1500.1's on same speakers/box and car, and 1000/1 on the same speakers/box/car, it is far stronger on the 1000/1. Also, the 1000/1 will make the same power from 1.5 to 4 ohms, the kicker 1000.1 will make like 750 on 3 ohms. Since it beats out an amp rated at 500 watts more than itself, the 1000/1 is either SEVERELY underated, or the kicker is OVERrated.
Jay
Kicker lies? That hasn't been my experience with them. Been very happy with their products for years, and years.
I want to see numbers for your claims. Show me where the 1000/1 is actually 1000 watts, and the Kicker is not.
The debate should revolve around regulated or non regulated power supply. There are benefits to the regulated power supply that a non-regulated can't match. However, the non-regulated is not near the current hog that the regulated power supply is. Huge consideration to take into account.
The wider, capable impedance range of the JL is nice, but at what cost?
Frankly, for somebody that seems strapped for cash, a Kicker 1000.1 for $100.00, given the amp is working is awfully damn hard to beat.
Get the Kicker. If in the future you want something bigger, you can rest assured you'll get your $100.00 back for it. That's a knock out price.
The ability to buy expensive equipment does NOT make you an audiophile.
yeah i just came across a deal where i can get the alpine pdx 600.1 for 95 dollars.
the guy that said he going to sell me the kicker stop answering my phone calls so now im going to grab the pdx on friday
just a mcintosh mc425 and jl 12inch w7 so far
but im gon get'er dun
JL 1000.1 VS KICKER 1000.1
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