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Yes I am using toslink. No clicks or pops between tracks or pausing.
 
you should be able to connect any IOS8 device peer to peer with an Apple TV without wifi and use the optical out..
you need to turn Bluetooth on on both devices as they use Bluetooth to find each other and then talk to each other using AirPlay direct without any internet source..
It works in my house but I'm yet to try it in car..
 
Correct, but we aren't talking about Apple TV. Also, you don't need an internet source to do this with airport express as long as you're not streaming via pandora, iTunes Radio, etc.). Apple TV in the car without a monitor attached becomes problematic when you need to navigate menus ie, to say no to a software update.
 
Correct, but we aren't talking about Apple TV. Also, you don't need an internet source to do this with airport express as long as you're not streaming via pandora, iTunes Radio, etc.). Apple TV in the car without a monitor attached becomes problematic when you need to navigate menus ie, to say no to a software update.
I think it might be a better option than airport express though for people having jitter problems and as it's not connected to the internet it is not going to ask for software updates.
basically you just connect your device to the appleTV and press play and it will send out an optical signal to your processor ..

But as we are talking about Airport Express please ignore my findings!!
 
Trick is why would some have jitter problems, but not others I wonder?

directly dependent on the quality of the DAC. a super high quality DAC will have clock sync issues with airport express.
 
So I FINALLY took the time to get into my amp rack and plug up the Airport Express running digital into the Helix DSP, utilizing the Helix remote (for safety) to test. The remote works well, but you can also control volume while keeping full digital resolution from your iDevice. So I just pegged the iPhone volume and used the Helix remote. I rigged it so I could switch manually between RCA/Optical on the helix remote, A/B comparing through the 149BT and Airport Express. The AE was simply plugged into A/C via extension cord, for test.

Findings: It rocks! The fidelity is outstanding for anything I played from within the native music app from iOS, which is typically what I use for source conventionally through the Alpine. The sound quality is noticeably better as is output. Switching back, you can hear the digital grain introduced by the multiple conversions and the shortcomings of the head unit's preamp stage.

This I expected though because you're sending full-digital signal to the DSP, bypassing four different stages and conversions into and through the head unit through it's preamp. DA, preamp, helix input, AD. So instead it's wifi stream through the AE, out optical into the Helix. Much much better signal path. Many becomes one DA conversion just at the output of the Helix.

Shortcomings: Not the fault of the AE but the phone.. It's wifi or cellular data, not both. So if hooked into the AE, you got no data. Not a biggie except if you were attempting to stream radio/music/media for audio in which case you're sunk. However, if you ran a wifi iPod maybe with Airplay, if they do those, that'd be cool.

So it was test only, as the AE runs on AC power. I did keep the Alpine pegged though and using the Helix remote for volume, and find that actually is far better, sending a pegged preamp signal to the Helix's AD converter.

Conclusion: Straight digital into these new DSP's is THE way to go. So my next experiment will be with the Parts-Express HDMI to Toslink audio-extractor. That would basically be a wired un-attenuated method, and actually an easier install as that box has a 5vDC input.

IMHO, sonically speaking, a conventional head unit with analog-only outputs is obsolete and necessary evil, if you don't go around it to feed a DSP straight digital. Head unit manufacturers would do well to offer at least a couple units with a toslink output, configurable for volume-controlled or just straight up digital.
 
I should add here on the topic of AE in car.. How to use cellular data while streaming through an Airport Express. Thanks Mechanic for pointing out that it can be done. All credit to him.

AirPlay on the Highway: Put AirPort Express in your Car for Wireless Audio Awesomeness | Evolver.fm

I see some soldering in my future.
What I've not verified but others have mentioned is bootup time is a bit long.
What I do know, is in my scenario as tested, it was better than 149BT Alpine via RCA's.
So.. I'm doing this, and throwing my stock 4ch balanced head unit back in for aesthetics sake.
 
you have to set the IP and Subnet manually on the iDevice (10.0.0.4 and 255.255.0.0) and leave the other fields blank in order for your phone to use data while on the wifi netwrok.
 
you have to set the IP and Subnet manually on the iDevice (10.0.0.4 and 255.255.0.0) and leave the other fields blank in order for your phone to use data while on the wifi netwrok.
Yep I just discovered this today. In the link I posted, it details it out with older iOS screenshots even which I didn't realize.
 
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I'm all in now. Popped it open and pulled the supply. Haven't soldered up yet but ready to go if can get some time today. So the APE will be powered by USB 5vdc converted to 3.3vdc by the little converter. Will either run from a lighter in center console or a relay to a USBuddy and relay. Depending on how long the toslink cable will reach.

Apple warranty successfully voided. :)


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Hey babs I did this mod back in May and have loved the convenience of it. It's definitely worth it. I have the optical cable running to my 6to8 and the sound clarity is amazing. At first I had it connected to the aux in of my head unit in the Audi and there was distortion of I had the volume on the phone all the way up. Now with the 6to8 I have the volume up on the phone and control the volume through the mini controller with no issues. I'm lucky enough to have a lighter in the cargo area of the truck so I just have it hooked up there. [emoji108]?[emoji108]?


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We have powa!!!
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And uuuuuuuugly!! Hehe
But. Been testing this evening in car powered by a cheap lighter USB plug and some very old toslink I had on shelf and it definitely works. I almost think I should revisit my gains with it though. It's output from the helix I believe is a tad hotter than the head unit. On the remote, if my phone volume is pegged so it's sending full bore volume data I can hear some strain from the PDX amps, plus I can only really crack the throttle on the remote before it completely runs you out of the car. I'm reluctant to but considering trying it only phone volume without the helix remote. Which is kinda cool because I can literally just tap my phone to raise/lower volume without even going past lock screen. But eliminating the remote will lessen the complexity of the system.

If I had a 64g iPad mini instead of a 16g Air, I'd be looking hard at a Soundman iPad dash install and have one source only. Doesn't accommodate playing discs at meets etc but would be way cool.

So my takeaway is you can do a relatively complicated toslink or other SPDIF option for these DSP's but still car head units are years behind by reliance on analog outputs.

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This is the article/walk through I used to get me set up. I had never really soldered snd i was able to get it up and running in around 30 min.

http://blog.bmn.name/2013/06/airplay-enabled-car/
Airplay enabled car | Benjamin Michael Novakovic

You need an airport express lol. You can get them refurbished from apple or open box from best buy which will knock off a few bucks off the price.
Usb cable to hack up
Solder and soldering gun
I used extra wire I had laying around from radioshack to extend power and ground between the resister and actual ae.
5v to 3.3 voltage converter
And I used heat shrink tubing to wrap the wires with

Good luck and don't forget to change the wireless settings on your phone to be able to get in the wifi while still have lte in the background


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