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Need help fixing my amp **PICS!!**

5K views 19 replies 13 participants last post by  khail19 
#1 ·
Scored this old Sony XM-3046 off eBay and it's cooked. Hoping some EE's and my modest soldering ability can bring her back to life. I took the board completely out and these two parts are the only places that are burnt. Board is fine on both sides.

I'm just going to attempt to fix it because it's not in good enough shape to justify costly repairs. Thanks!!

First, what are these and where can I score some?







 
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#11 · (Edited)
I gave the transformer a good look and it appears ok.

It probably just needs some Intelligentstia coffee.

Maybe that'll bring it back.:rolleyes:
I PM'd you back. :D

My monitor at works sucks and every photo looks dark, but based off what i can see and what others have posted.

It might be a P50N06. THose are pretty common switching FETS.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=RFP50N06-ND

NTP50N06 is Motorola's (ONSEMI) new part number. Beware that the ones in your amp have the screw tab insulated and the replacements are not plastic insualted at the tab. Care must be taken when screwing to the heatsink to electrically isolate it from the heatsink, otherwise damage may occur.

Replace all of them and also check those resistors by them, one looks toasted for sure. Then check all your output transistors too to make sure they measure the same with your meter on diode check.
The resistor looks like it just got some smoke on it, but I will replace it just to be safe.

As far as isolating, can I use mica material for that purpose?

Thanks for all the help!!
 
#7 ·
Good luck with that. Usually if these go, so does other stuff...kind of cascading in a downward spiral of destruction, and the realease of the magic smoke. I hope that is all it is, but more than likely not. Neat little project though, and I hope you don't have too much money into it.
 
#9 · (Edited)
My monitor at works sucks and every photo looks dark, but based off what i can see and what others have posted.

It might be a P50N06. THose are pretty common switching FETS.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=RFP50N06-ND

NTP50N06 is Motorola's (ONSEMI) new part number. Beware that the ones in your amp have the screw tab insulated and the replacements are not plastic insualted at the tab. Care must be taken when screwing to the heatsink to electrically isolate it from the heatsink, otherwise damage may occur.

Replace all of them and also check those resistors by them, one looks toasted for sure. Then check all your output transistors too to make sure they measure the same with your meter on diode check.
 
#10 ·
My monitor at works sucks and every photo looks dark, but based off what i can see and what others have posted.

It might be a P50N06. THose are pretty common switching FETS.

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=RFP50N06-ND

Replace all of them and also check those resistors by them, one looks toasted for sure. Then check all your output transistors too to make sure they measure the same with your meter on diode check.
Those say on them:
MT A3
0N06HD
J615(Motorola symbol)
 
#14 ·
Does anyone else think it is strange that Sony would use insulated gate power FETs in this application? The thermal resistance of that package is HUGE! Meaning, even though the die is fairly robust, the package can't draw heat off it fast enough. A 90W part is derated to 30W.

You can replace these with a number of other options in a non-insulated tab. One that comes to mind is the IRFZ44.

Like others have mentioned, you WILL need to insulate the tab from the heat sink surface or suffer the consequences.

If you did not want to bother with mica insulators and running that risk, I suggest you try the IRFIZ48G from digikey. It is also an insulated gate part. These will run you a few dollars more, but, are much more robust than the stock part.

You MUST use a current limited power supply when bringing this thing up for the first time after the transplant. My best guess is that an ouput transistor or two could also be blown. That potentially took out the power supply FETs. But, seeing the crappy FETs they used, this may not be the case.


Ge0
 
#16 ·
Good luck!

I wish I could fix all the broken amps in the garage. I can't throw them away, but they aren't really high dollar amps and repairing them will cost more than I paid for them.
 
#17 ·
Holy ****, IT WORKS!!

I can't believe it, seriously. The solder job is not going to win me a place in the amp repair hall of fame, but not totally embarrassing.

Thanks to everyone that replied to the thread and Ge0 for the IRFIZ48G part information. I have a 20 spot wrapped up in the repair, so not too awful.
 
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