We would never be able to sell low rated power amps that are high current. But I would kill to have an insane system with a pair of 25 watt amps!
Who says they would have to be high current amps or even low power? Unlike the old Orion HCCA amps, the PPI's never hinted that they were high current. Even the Pro Art amps, while being low impedence stable, were better known as high SQ amplifiers.
I could see a Pro Mos series that included a four channel a/b amp with all the features I mentioned earlier, maybe a couple 2 channel a/b amps and then 2-3 monoblock 1 ohm stable, high efficency amps.
Your SS Rubicon amps are already very close to what I am thinking of in the power breakdown by model. That big 2500.1 would look awesome in black (kinda like the Lil Wonder series) with the Pro Mos retro type fins. Just add the features I mentioned earlier with the emphasis on high SQ.
Who says they would have to be high current amps or even low power? Unlike the old Orion HCCA amps, the PPI's never hinted that they were high current. Even the Pro Art amps, while being low impedence stable, were better known as high SQ amplifiers.
I could see a Pro Mos series that included a four channel a/b amp with all the features I mentioned earlier, maybe a couple 2 channel a/b amps and then 2-3 monoblock 1 ohm stable, high efficency amps.
Your SS Rubicon amps are already very close to what I am thinking of in the power breakdown by model. That big 2500.1 would look awesome in black (kinda like the Lil Wonder series) with the Pro Mos retro type fins. Just add the features I mentioned earlier with the emphasis on high SQ.
You know I'll jump on it if they give me the chance, but for sales, it would better to do Art first...
I know the art series were good amps, but I hated the art-paint. It is uncool now in a Zubaz / Vanilla Ice kind of way...with a hint of Milli-Vanilli.
blasphemer..lol
now the damn plug connectors ..I hate..thats why I never use them ..I hate them plugs..holes too small.
Joseph Goebbels, Nazi propaganda minister during World War II said: “It is the absolute right of the State to supervise the formation of public opinion; truth is the greatest enemy of the State.”
Maybe if you would properly tin your leads before trying to insert them into the plugs...
Didn't ITT and Devry teach you guys anything?
Just sayin.
EDIT: As far as the artwork goes, it's always subjective.
As for me, I absolutely love it and can't wait to pop the barn doors open in my Suburban and show them off.
You have to admit, there's nothing like them visually and few that can match their sq abilites.
Damn Grizz, build the tribute amps.
I'll be 1st in line.
No offense to CHY or anyone who liked the white Art designs or even the look of the older white Pro/M/AM series amps but, I always thought the black versions looked so much cooler. Sinister even. Bwahahaha!
No offense to CHY or anyone who liked the white Art designs or even the look of the older white Pro/M/AM series amps but, I always thought the black versions looked so much cooler. Sinister even. Bwahahaha!
For the record, even CHY said she loved the look of the black arts with the board schematics silkscreen.
They're so cool whether they're wearing a white or black hat.
Agreed on the black. Even if you had the Phantom internals (no mods) and an "Art inspired" top. Add my name to those who don't want to see molex/din inputs too . Not that we can't use them, just that regular connections are sooo much easier for us lazy people. JPS
Maybe if you would properly tin your leads before trying to insert them into the plugs...
Didn't ITT and Devry teach you guys anything?
Just sayin.
EDIT: As far as the artwork goes, it's always subjective.
As for me, I absolutely love it and can't wait to pop the barn doors open in my Suburban and show them off.
You have to admit, there's nothing like them visually and few that can match their sq abilites.
Damn Grizz, build the tribute amps.
I'll be 1st in line.
Bret
PPI-ART COLLECTOR
well yes but if I were to be running say oh a SS reference amp I wouldnt have to do that. the wires tuck nice and neat into the holes .
the holes just needed to be bigger. Actually I hate the entire design of them plugs. I always felt I was going to pull something loose trying to remove one from the amp.
Joseph Goebbels, Nazi propaganda minister during World War II said: “It is the absolute right of the State to supervise the formation of public opinion; truth is the greatest enemy of the State.”
well yes but if I were to be running say oh a SS reference amp I wouldnt have to do that. the wires tuck nice and neat into the holes .
the holes just needed to be bigger. Actually I hate the entire design of them plugs. I always felt I was going to pull something loose trying to remove one from the amp.
Exactly.
I was a Soundstream guy myself, and thus my preference.
I did like the black-N-red PPI's...
More is Better. 07 Accord EX-L: Alpine CDA-9886 + Imprint + Sirius + Focal 165V30 (4) + Eclipse PA5422 amps (2) + Eclipse ZA1200 sub amp + AudioControl Epicenter + Dayton Audio Titanic MK III 12" sub.
I broke down and ordered one of these 900.4 . I have a stealth install in mind and this will go exactly where I need it. I am going to get one of the 1000.1 too
Joseph Goebbels, Nazi propaganda minister during World War II said: “It is the absolute right of the State to supervise the formation of public opinion; truth is the greatest enemy of the State.”
I broke down and ordered one of these 900.4 . I have a stealth install in mind and this will go exactly where I need it. I am going to get one of the 1000.1 too
I'm interested in one of these too. Will they be able to run HAT Imagines active with the built in cross overs? Thanks.
Most likely not with built in crossovers. This is because most people who have tried these active, liked using tweeter crossover frequency in 5-6KHz range, with a sharp slope. The PPI amp high pass crossover goes up to something like 4.5KHz according to the label.
However, you don't need to have a full crossover to go active with HAT speakers. The HAT woofers are designed to play up to 5KHz and higher and will roll off naturally without a crossover. For the tweeter you can insert a capacitor with an appropriate value for a 1st order high pass filter. I working on this setup right now. The HAT Imagines come with a 2.2uF capacitor on the woofer (used by the tweeter), so you can just buy one of these from parts express.
Most likely not with built in crossovers. This is because most people who have tried these active, liked using tweeter crossover frequency in 5-6KHz range, with a sharp slope. The PPI amp high pass crossover goes up to something like 4.5KHz according to the label.
However, you don't need to have a full crossover to go active with HAT speakers. The HAT woofers are designed to play up to 5KHz and higher and will roll off naturally without a crossover. For the tweeter you can insert a capacitor with an appropriate value for a 1st order high pass filter. I working on this setup right now. The HAT Imagines come with a 2.2uF capacitor on the woofer (used by the tweeter), so you can just buy one of these from parts express.
I understand that first part about it not being high enough, but the capacitor part went over my head. I found the part on parts express, but how would I go about inserting it into the setup? Thanks.
Dood, use the built in crossover. It's hella nice you have that built in. Even if a 6" midrange rolls off naturally (not sure what this means) it still doesn't have the dispersion characteristics similar to your tweeter past 2khz or so. Then even if the break up is not severe it still usually rings and has high distortion up top.
I understand that first part about it not being high enough, but the capacitor part went over my head. I found the part on parts express, but how would I go about inserting it into the setup? Thanks.
You cut tweeter's positive wire and solder a capacitor inline. I did this yesterday using this part. This creates a high pass crossover with -6dB slope starting at around 18KHz according to crossover calculator. This frequency sounds like a strange spec, but remember that with a shallow slope it means that the tweeter will be only 12dB down at 4500Hz and 18dB down at 2250Hz. The later could be accomplished with a high pass crossover at 4.5KHz with a 18dB slope. I just finished such quasi active setup and since I don't have a capability to change my tweeter crossover slope to try out whether something like 6000Hz high pass with 18dB slope would sound a lot better than the stock setup, but I does seem to sound nice to my untrained ear as of right now. Having this capacitor would probably help to protect your tweeter from nasty clicks and pops sent my lower quality amplifier on turn on and off.
PS: If you don't want to bother with the capacitor, you can try to use the amplifier's crossover at the max value to see how it goes. Having an amplifier crossover could help you a little even if you use a capacitor in line (e.g. apply amplifier crossover at 4KHz or so, making sure the tweeter is dead silent at lower frequencies).
Dood, use the built in crossover. It's hella nice you have that built in. Even if a 6" midrange rolls off naturally (not sure what this means) it still doesn't have the dispersion characteristics similar to your tweeter past 2khz or so. Then even if the break up is not severe it still usually rings and has high distortion up top.
I see what you're saying, but wouldn't break up be an issue with woofer being off-axis in the usual location in many cars? In any case, with so many users of Imagines so far no one has complained of the woofer having sloppy dispersion.. I tried to run the woofers with tweeters turned off, and while this will sound off as expected with not treble and low sound stage, its surprising to m ear how much information is coming from the woofers.