Totally! Iíd be up for getting together when I finally get a chance to do my build in a few months.
Let me know, Iím in the valley
Hand is healing fast so I was able to check my boxes.
Then ordered few guys for different scenarios.
It seems the WO24P would fit without too much mods. I could easily test it on the right side with minimal change to see if itís the right direction at least. If it doesnít change much Iíll drop all the following.
Then one SB29SWNRX, the sub version. A little deeper than the 9.5Ē again, so hard to fit with the brake pedal, but Iím ready to cut it a bit if needed.
It has a much wider flange but I have no real limit in this area, sure it will require much more work on the box, maybe even new ones, but simulations are so nice in comparison.
If it works I could also try the woofer version, no gain in small boxes, but higher sensitivity, and maybe a different sound.
I thought about their shallow sub but first Iím not sure it will sound better, and then the protruding cone will probably not fit with the pedal.
If both donít fit, I want to try dual 6Ē again, 2xMW16.
I didnít have so great results before with 4x660gti, it certainly sounded ďfullĒ but not that clear, but they didnít have enough volume.
And since I putted back the crossblock for mids/tweets I now have two free channels so maybe I could optimize.
Either both verticaly deep in the footwell, wide as possible, or in a 2.5 way fashion if I can place even wider. With these I would be able to find more volume, with an sd comparable to the 9.5Ē. But distorsion wise Iím not sure.
Wide enough would be really cool as it is a limitation right now in my setup.
I really like the big domes but they need more than a 500hz HP, more 800 for the 2Ē, the 3Ē I didnít try yet. So I imagine 2x6Ē placed right would allow high enough to cross to the domes.
The 25/26w will be for next car, I donít want to cut the side ďrailsĒ as theyíre already internally reinforced for the soft roof.
There is another solution, I have a good spot to vent right into the wings, if I can relocate some stuff. But to be sure I would need to remove them, maybe Iíll study this on next big check up with my mech. If he let me try
My models suggested that the MW16P-8's love larger boxes, which is why they are pretty well suited for a well-sealed door application. They'll get fussy in a little kick. The MW19P-8's however, those love little sealed boxes.
Some news in my kicks.
I received 2xsatori24 and adapted my boxes quickly for testing, just a smaller ring on top.
It's tight, the left one is offset and still It can go in place only if I first remove the rubber on my brake pedal (few mm)
I filled them quite a lot and reduced a bit the peak of resonance, but can't do as much as with the beyma as they have a pole vent.
First full sweeps were ugly, uglier than with the beyma
I almost thought I did a mistake, more distortion, no improvement in detail/clarity.
I could let the beyma full range and it was ok, not SQ of course but good.
Once tuned, the sato are ok, but I can't say better than the beyma.
But the boxes are clearly too small for them, they might be smaller than I thought too.
While the beyma were more forgiving here.
See the bigger bump near 100Hz compared to the beyma, that matches my simulations.
And notice the big difference in low midrange, really strange as theyíre in the same spot. Or maybe I stuffed them too much?
I'm waiting for the 2xSB29SWNRX that would need less volume while still allowing a lower FS.
While waiting I can still work on the boxes, to find volume or vent outside.
Because the sb29 might not fit at all.
So I need your advices guys, I'm not fan of cutting structural panels, especially since it's a convertible.
But I also want to push it a bit, here's what I came up with:
Some context (pics mixed from internet + old or recent of my car):
The floor, with the foot support panel on the firewall (angle piece).
This one is not exactly like mine, and I partially removed it panel to gain some volume and "lock" the boxes.
Behind the wing, lot of space below the A post
Again not mine here , but to show a box option in front of the firewall
And since it's a convertible, it has an added tube all along inside the sills
So, I ended up with 5 choices:
A upper side panel
+ flimsy panel, 1 layer for sure, I would cut it in a heartbeat
+ easy relocation of the stuff outside in the wing
+ no relocation of connectors
- too high to connect to the existing enclosures, might even need a tube to reach there avoiding some dash stuff.
Think some sort of ported box with an external tube going outside.
B mid side panel
+ not flimsy, 2 layers, but I'm guessing not really structural
- need relocation of all the connectors
- need relocation of the EVAP stuff in the left wing, and a container in the right wing (don't know what is is yet)
C side rail/sill
+ easiest to connect to the enclosure
- most structural, inside is the reinforcement tube, I can touch it with my finger in an existing small hole
- unknown volume, but not free air
D upper firewall
+ easy to cut
+ not much structural
- not very big hole, and not best spot to connect to the box
(would be great for a horn, but not deep enough)
- too hot? it's not in the engine bay but very close, exhaust is 1ft away under the floor.
- fumes? security?
E lower firewall
+ bigger hole and easy on the box
+ not much structural
- harder to cut
- too hot?
- fumes? security?
I'm leaning toward A or B, but if D&E look ok to you I could try as it would be easier.
A if someone says a tube would have a manageable impact on impedance.
C would be the fastest as it doesn't imply any other work, but it's my last choice.
External right wing here
left arch, with a shot of the box behind the firewall, created by the reinforcement / sill closing panel
Inside right side, typical connector set, and upper empty space
Iím not surprised about the global bump but more about the sound itself. Without eq they sound way worst than the beymas, especially down low.
But once filtered theyíre correct again so I hope the proper box would allow them to do better than the beymas.
Or all this is done for nothing
But yeah L/R id pretty good, happy with that.
For the 400-800hz I canít see how it could come back (other than cutting -30db around ), but itís ok they wonít see more than 300hz, most likely cut near 200/250hz.
Also my under dash was half out during the sweeps, maybe it can change the response, Iíll test again.
You got any thoughts on where to cut?
I think I will have to remove one wing to check further...
Yeah sure itís the least structural, but then all the projections to manage... so variovents + cloth etc, and maybe backwave into the floor?
While in A/B it could be completely free air and safe for the driver, it's very clean behind there
Ok I see what you mean Iíve seen some, yeah I can check that too.
But honestly I feel like the water would still be an issue, it doesnít rain often here of course but when it does the streets are filled, itís common to have to pass over mini floods everywhere.
Ok... I was about to post a thread in the HLCD section to get more response, but I couldn't wait, so F*** it and go cut:
4" round for now, then anti rust and CLD around.
But I doubt they will see any water it was super clean there.
I expect it to be large enough, but if needed I could come back later and cut more like 6x4".
I expected a nightmare to remove the wing but it went fast, CA weather is so good to cars, 18yrs old and no rust around
Iíll try to make the left one tomorrow so I could drive again.
But it might be longer as I have some BS evap stuff there.
Then Iíll have to find an easy way to fit all the connectors, and re-do part of the box to join this area.
Iím waiting for some scans vario-vents, but Iíll try empty first, with just a flared tube of fiberglass coming out of the box up to the hole.
The tricky part will be to optimize the box volume and air flow while keeping it easy to insert and remove!
This car can be a PITA sometime like for subs, but here I believe I'm lucky to have this huge panel. I mean a shop or someone crazy good could fit a 12" here!
Left side done!
A little harder to remove the wing as thereís more stuff everywhere behind this side, but Iím happy to close this in a week end.
For now I just have some cld around the hole to keep its size near maximum, then some in the inner wing as well.
Linner, wheels etc back, Iíll drive like that to see if I get some engine or fuel fumes. To get an idea of what the driver will see.
Had to bypass the drains from the cowl as they were firing right in this area.
I didnít see any debris or even traces of water but I wonít take the chance.
Will just have to check more often if the water doesnít get stuck on top.
Next, cut the boxes.
Or, I wonder if I should just create a baffle to close the corners.
This would save some depth for future drivers, and might be easier/faster than fierglass (but not sure).
Also Iím not quite sure of what to use to attach it, just clay and cld maybe.
But using the metal sheets as panels might create some resonances, even if itís quite rigid itís still connected to the floor, dash etc.
My actual boxes have 1/2Ē at least of foam all around to isolate.
And I ordered some sorbothane to create better pads in case I keep the boxes.
Have been waiting for the SB29SWNRX quite some time since backorder on Madisound.
But finally went with a pair of 25W as I don't really care about the volume requirement anymore.
These things are even smaller than the beymas!
So now I can build something with a little more clearance without the need to gain volume everywhere, should be easier.
Last week end I cleaned up a little all wirings in kicks, finished CLDing/ensoliting everywhere.
Next step would be fiberglass as I can't reuse my old boxes, they don't fit well anymore.
Hope next week end will be around 85F for an easy glassin'
Wel it's more for the quality of the midbass than really all upfront as it was quite already the case. But I hope it will sound better cause for all these efforts. And one month without music so far.
Maybe Iím getting burned or lazy, but last WE I started to glass and what a pain it was deep in the footwell, much worst than last time.
The left one especially with the wiring that leaves less room to play with.
Right side would be easy but the left one is a little more tricky, cause I want to optimize the surface area of the hole, optimize breathing path, and ease of mount.
Still don't know what technique I will use to close them, probably captain obvious' one with tape and heavy filler from outside.
And what technique I will use to make a perfect junction with the holes.
Was checking home depot for all pipe adapters, screw on from inside out etc, might be a solution to get a tight seal. But I would need to remove the wings again.
I also changed my sub as a side thing as itís easier.
Went with a passive radiator, always wanted to test that in big.
So Dayton HO15 + the PR, in the same box adapted.
On sims it looks much nicer and useful, like +6db from 20 to 30Hz and -3 above 45hz, where I cut anyway.
And still well below max excursion for my needs.
I hope it sounds good