2003 Hyundai accent - Car Audio | DiyMobileAudio.com | Car Stereo Forum

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Old 06-05-2018   #1
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Default 2003 Hyundai accent

I have a 2003 Hyundai accent.

It was taken great care of before me & I invested a ton of parts and labor to restore it all back to factory fresh. It now is sold for the next 130,000miles or 8-10 years.

Anyways. I've been telling myself I'm not going to do another stereo for a long time because what I did to my aspire albeit amazing. Costs a ton of money.

Well I'm always daydreaming about my next stereo and the other day I pulled the trigger on the infinity kappa k4 + infinity kappa k1000 amps.

I still need to do some planning before ordering the rest of my stuff.
Just gonna order piece by piece over time until I have everything.

I'm gonna settle on the pioneer deh p80rs since the 99rs is so expensive or else I'd jump on that.

So far I'm going with the kappa perfect 500 for the front & rear speakers (unless I find out they won't fit, but will check clearances before ordering). I'd love to put the midrange speaker on the fronts, but only the tweet & midwoof in the rear. That way focus is up front.

I'd also like to stick with the infinity kappa 1200w subs if possible.
If I can get 2 of them in a custom built rear parcel shelf infinite baffle style I'll be happy.

This car is my daily driver work vehicle. & I need all the trunk space I can get.
So I need to do this in a way that will conserve trunk space.
I'm thinking if I could build a wooden parcel shelf template that I could use it to raise the subs a bit higher so that the magnets don't dip so far into the trunk.


The sub situation will be the part that is still being figured put before I order any parts.
I'm even considering squeezing an 18" sub in that shelf if possible.

Anyone got any suggestions for me relating to infinite baffle since this will be new to me.
The equipment will be capable, just will need some pointers here and there.

work in construction is kicking right now so I may be busy and not log in for a while. My timeframe for planning, ordering parts, install and finished I'm aiming for before the end of the year depending on when I have time to work on it.

I just love the planning phase. I think it's the most important part. & if you do it well the whole job just comes together perfectly in the end.



My last vehicle was an all infinity kappa build & I was very impressed with its performance.

I've noticed they put out a whole new product line out so I've decide to stay loyal to the brand & order all their top shelf parts for a new system. I'm positive I will not be disappointed.
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1996 ford aspire
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Old 06-10-2018   #2
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Default Re: 2003 Hyundai accent



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Old 06-14-2018   #3
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Default Re: 2003 Hyundai accent

Took my door panels off today for measurements.

I should have enough room for my kappa perfect 500's.
They only need 2.5" mounting depth.

I will though have to have trim rings made.



Those oem mounts protrude outward as well as correcting a downward pointing mounting surface.


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Last edited by rmoltis; 06-14-2018 at 08:31 PM..
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Old 10-09-2018   #4
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Default Re: 2003 Hyundai accent

Any updates? I'm about to purchase the K4 and K1000 myself for my Jeep Grand Cherokee. How do you like your setup?

Infinity Kappa Perfect 900 + kappa 20MX front stage
Infinity Kappa Infinity Kappa 62.11I rear stage
2 RF T1 15" (silver cone) Sealed. 2 Pioneer PRS-d800,1 pioneer PRS-D4200f bridged, 1 Pioneer PRS-X720
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Default

Dynamat.
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Default

Dynamat
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Default

Kappa perfect 500
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Default

Some wiring & head unit.
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Default

I've been sitting on all my stereo gear about a year now. Life & work kept me very busy.

Initially my goal was to conserve trunk space for work & that's why I was considering infinite baffle. But plans change especially if your like me & prefer to plan out your whole build before even starting.

I like to have a vision of what I want.
Once I do I select all the components to the complete system. That way the only thing left is organizing the steps from start to completion.


I'm going to have a sealed box built into my trunk where the spare tire well sits. In the picture you see how much space it affords.

I'll be using an image dynamics 12" sub, built into a spec'd sealed box on the larger end of recommended volume. Then it will have a false floor built over the sub where the airspace above the subs piston will be focused towards a large slot port type opening facing towards the front of the car. This way I can conceal my sub, amps & crossovers from view. While still retaining functional trunk space above the false floor for work.
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Default

Got the rear speakers fitted & mounted to the rear panels.

There are a couple pictures comparing the oem speaker to the kappa perfect 500's .

The midrange mounting holes lined up exactly with the panels screw holes bonus!! I just had to use some weather stripping to seal the gap between the midrange and the panel. That way I would eliminate the back wave of the piston from coloring the sound of the pistons front wave.


I wanted to flush mount my tweets for adjustability of directionality. But the structure these panels rest on had a structural component that would not accommodate the depth I needed. So I was forced to flush mount.
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Default

The only constant is change.
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Default Re: 2003 Hyundai accent

I took the door handles off the front door panels I'm working on.
They were touched by anyone who ever opened or closed those doors during the 16 years of the cars life.
Were very disgusting.
I scrubbed them with scotch-brite pads under running water with soap.

Here are a few pictures of 1 clean handle next to a dirty one before reinstallation.
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Default Re: 2003 Hyundai accent

Both front door panels were very uv damaged & discolored.
As well as little scratches all over from a dog.
So here is a b4 picture (sanded, washed & iso wiped).

Then an after picture.

Side note top picture is the passenger door & the after is the driver door.

But the pictures are well representative of the before & after conditions of both.
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Default Re: 2003 Hyundai accent

Had to find a place to flush mount my tweeters on the front panels.
I needed enough clearance for the flush mount adapter to be used.

After much test fitting I found a location right next to the speaker location.
So I traced some outlines,
cut some holes,
sanded them smooth,
installed the tweeter mounts,
Installed three tweeters in said mounts,
Then adjusted the angle of their positioning.

Having the tweeters right next to the mid-woofers is the goal.
I want the distance from each driver to my ear to be as close as possible to each other.
That way the separate frequencies align well in time when they hit my ear at as close to the same moment as possible. To help reduce the tuning spent on time alignment

If the tweeter were further from the midrange. I would need to measure the center point of driver to driver, then take the center point between those 2 points. This center point is what would need to be used when tuning my time alignment settings. This would be a compromise between both drivers. Less than ideal, but better than no tuning.

The tweeters also produce a lot of frequencies in the higher range.
They have done studies that show higher frequency waves tend to beam more directly ( compared to most midrange & low frequency waves which tend to be more omnidirectional)

This Is why the front tweeters are positioned as best as possible up & towards the listener.
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Default Re: 2003 Hyundai accent

When I went to test fit the mid-woofers & door panels to check for fitment/clearances
The door panels had high points that were touching the rubber surrounds of the mid-woofers. So I removed my tweeters & took some 40 grit and sanded it flush to free up more room. Then reinstalled the tweeters.
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Default Re: 2003 Hyundai accent

Finished the installation of the dynamat on the interior & exterior of the front doors.
Followed by cutting holes where the screws and hardware mount to the door through the dynamat.
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Default Re: 2003 Hyundai accent

Wired up then Mounted the mid-woofers on the speaker adapters.
I had to remove 1/4" of material from the adapters to free up more clearance for the speakers. I used a disc style sander with 40 grit. Then kept it flat to the speaker adapter so that the mating surface remained flat & square. Worked great 👍👌
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Default Re: 2003 Hyundai accent

Connected the wiring to the tweeters as I installed the door panel.
I decided to not yet mount the interior door or window handles.
They install easily, but removal is a pain.
They basically secure the door more permanently once installed.

So I wish to leave them off until the system is up, running and showing no problems needing fixed. I would hate to have to remove the panels & scratch up the new paint removing window cranks or door handles.

So far so good.
One more set of tasks checked off the list towards system completion.
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Default Re: 2003 Hyundai accent

I'm kind of at a crossroads in my planning.

Originally I wanted a standard car stereo with front & rear speaker sets.
I've already purchased and installed both sets.

I also have the deh-80prs.
I'm learning that i can run the standard front & rear setup on passive crossovers.
But I will lose some of the tuning options.

I have the equipment where If I didn't connect the rear channels, I could run active for my first build.
This is very appealing & I could unlock the network mods on my receiver.

The only downside to removing the rear speakers, is that I will have wasted $600 lol!
Maybe I could look at them as replacement parts if the fronts go bad.
I was also hoping that I could run all 4 channels for more volume.


So right now I'm torn between all 4 speaker sets passive for volume.

Or just 2 speaker sets up front but active for quality.


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Default Re: 2003 Hyundai accent

I personally dislike skipping the rear fills. It just sounds too weird to me. So I would vote for all passive and eventually get new amps/DSP for active in the future.

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Default Re: 2003 Hyundai accent

there is another option - run rears passively from your HU or small amp, front system active from DSP/amp

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Default Re: 2003 Hyundai accent

I'm at the point now where I could just buy a 2nd 4 channel amp & install it instead of the crossovers.
All my speakers have midrange and tweeter wires (2 wires) running back to where the amps are going.

So in theory all I would need is another amplifier.
It just sucks I would need another head unit to control them all.

I'm not opposed to passive, I just don't want to mount up the crossovers then build the sub box & box them in with the false floor, just to tear it down later and swap them out to go active.


In my head the most logical solution is to get the p99 head unit, but that's a $1200 hit lol.
It would though solve all the problems and increase the simplicity while having an active system front & rear.

Passive is the simplest,
I could justy set it up passive & enjoy it for a while.
I'm just really interested in an active system.

My last system was passive & great, but its always best to try and improve upon things each time you do them. An active system is that answer to keep climbing upwards.


1996 ford aspire
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Default Re: 2003 Hyundai accent

Why is a DSP not on the table? Saves you from having to change head units, and it's going to be easier to tune as well.

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Default Re: 2003 Hyundai accent

Quote:
Originally Posted by SlvrDragon50 View Post
Why is a DSP not on the table? Saves you from having to change head units, and it's going to be easier to tune as well.
When I was doing my planning I thought the deh 80prs would be my dsp.

If I knew adding one was part of the equation I would probably choose the alpine h800.

But when you add up the cost of the h800 & 80prs. Your looking at $1,000+ when the c99 is 1100-1200.

I would've rather done that for an equivalent cost.

I do want a dsp to be part of my system.
I just thought I already had that :-(


If I could sell my brand new 80prs in the box for what I paid $300.
I would lose nothing & could just buy the p99


I hear a lot of good things about the Ms-8 & it's around only $400...


1996 ford aspire

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Default Re: 2003 Hyundai accent

Quote:
Originally Posted by rmoltis View Post
When I was doing my planning I thought the deh 80prs would be my dsp.

If I knew adding one was part of the equation I would probably choose the alpine h800.

But when you add up the cost of the h800 & 80prs. Your looking at $1,000+ when the c99 is 1100-1200.

I would've rather done that for an equivalent cost.

I do want a dsp to be part of my system.
I just thought I already had that :-(


If I could sell my brand new 80prs in the box for what I paid $300.
I would lose nothing & could just buy the p99


I hear a lot of good things about the Ms-8 & it's around only $400...
I don't think you need to sell the 80PRS. Probably a big upgrade over the stock headunit anyways. There's a few cheap DSPs sitting around here used. I feel like I've seen a Helix DSP Pro MK1 around here for like $5-600. I think you are needing 10 channels if I am understanding your desires correctly. 4 channels for 2-way front, 4 channels for 2-way rear, and then sub. If you go 2-way front, passive rear, and sub, you could get away with the MS-8, Helix P-Six, etc.

The Alpine PXE-0850S looks pretty impressive. Though it has low wattage.

2014 Honda Accord LX - JL Audio C2-650, Kicker CSC674, Helix DSP Pro MK1, Pioneer GM-D8604, Rockford Fosgate R500X1D
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