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Old 03-02-2019   #51
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Do you have measurements on the front doors? I haven’t pulled mine off yet but I haven’t ordered midbasses Incase I can fit an 8
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Old 05-30-2019   #52
 
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Default Re: 2018 Subaru WRX

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Originally Posted by beerdrnkr View Post
I don't think anyone is following this build but I'll continue anyway. Lol
Glad you chose that path mate!
You never know when someone else with a similar mindset will roll up

I have an MY17 and a wardrobe full of quite nice audio gear with a thick layer of dust on it! I've had my time majorly eaten away by DIY renovations to a new house.

I'll admit that I am a little unsure of how I want to install everything as well. 'Unsure' both in where everything should go; but also whether or not differing install options are possibly a little more advanced than my skill level will allow!

Anyway I'll get back to reading your build log, cheers for the thread man...and props on that amplifier location! Some smart thinking and some clean ass wiring mate...nice

Peace
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Old 05-31-2019   #53
 
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‘17 wrx here ice silver like your ‘15. I’m curious how did 1 15” sound better than 2 15” in an IB setup? I’m actually in the process of buying a 3 way audiofrog Gb series for SQ build and want to do 15” IDMax IB with 2 of them I assumed would give me better SPL and same SQ.
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Old 05-31-2019   #54
 
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Default Re: 2018 Subaru WRX

Quote:
Originally Posted by Djtank View Post
‘17 wrx here ice silver like your ‘15. I’m curious how did 1 15” sound better than 2 15” in an IB setup? I’m actually in the process of buying a 3 way audiofrog Gb series for SQ build and want to do 15” IDMax IB with 2 of them I assumed would give me better SPL and same SQ.
G'day mate...I was just reading through the build log and didn't realise that 'Elvis had left the building' on this one. My apologies for dragging up an old thread mate. All the same your question is of interest to me.

I will be honest that I am no professional on any of this car audio type stuff - but I'm not a dumbass either; if I'm commenting on this forum then I have some idea what the topic is about - but all the same I have just a 'predisposition' towards cringing when someone says 'IB subs'. I do not doubt that I lack knowledge in the IB design arena...but I just have had the feeling overall that IB is a dreadful waste of a subs potential?

If you are inclined at all mate I'd appreciate you letting me know what your affinity for the IB arrangement is...theoretically it does this and that; but I have just not felt that in a practical environment results would be better IB than ported or sealed.

Especially with an IDMAX...doesn't the spec sheet say 'best suited to sealed enclosures'? Only questioning and hoping to learn mate; no offence intended

Quote:
Originally Posted by Motown65 View Post
Do you have measurements on the front doors? I havent pulled mine off yet but I havent ordered midbasses Incase I can fit an 8
Not sure if you are still about mate but would be interested in how your build has taken shape...? I listed on here a while back that I had some gear but lacked enthusiasm, time, a decent design, and a little bit of FOFU...(fear of mucking up...I think the morphing f to m is reasonably obviously!). Any news on how yours has taken shape would be welcome man

With no offence intended I sort of thought the concept of putting 8's in the door had sort of 'been done' already and been proven as not necessary if you get a good 6.5" that can handle some power and frequency range...? Especially of note is beer mans constant reference to the flimsy construction of WRX...goddam when I take the interior carpet panels out it looks like piddly sheet metal! The potential for rattles and just 'overwhelming the door space' seems like a genuine statement.

As it does for the entire car. I know you want to keep stuff like sound deadening to a minimum due to weight (especially if you are dropping a turbo on it already? FML man do you have a build log on your engine shenanigans! i'd love to have a read....). I'm the same...I think in America you would call it like a Stage 2+ or something that I have done on my WRX; but anyway the thought of adding possibly 100kg all up if you have a decent system (220 pounds) is really counter productive to all the dollars dropped in the engine bay!

Love to hear any thoughts mate

Peace gents
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Old 05-31-2019   #55
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Default Re: 2018 Subaru WRX

Sorry, I've been in the middle of purchasing a house and was debating whether selling the car or not for something cheaper. I've pulled out some things to get it ready to sell but now I'm not sure again. lol. I've been messing around with a few different setups along the way.

I removed the Minidsp and decided to just run the DSP of the HU. I also removed some amps and just added an Arc Audio XDi1100.1 and 600.4.

For speakers I tried the Hybrid Clarus mids with some cheap kicker coaxials in the dash, it actually sounded okay but there was definitely some blurring of the midrange and highs.

I then tried the Clarus mids with the Dayton PS95 full range mids in the dash and it just sounded terrible. I think they'd do much better on-axis but off the windshield they're just terrible.

Then I decided to try out a more traditional 2way setup with SB Acoustic mids in the doors and some dayton tweeters in the dash. It was ok but not at all what I'm used to. The Clarus mids had better midbass but the SB Acoustics I felt sounded a little better up high.

I then was hoping to try out some possibly more midrange friendly mids with a large format tweeter, so I grabbed a pair of Dayton RS180P mids and Dayton RST28A aluminum tweeters. This is currently what I have in my car and it sounds ok, the main issue is volume. I forgot how much of a difference going 3way was volume wise. Once again, the setup is ok. Once we move in to our new place (which I'll finally have a large garage to work in!), I'll most likely reinstall the miniDSP, this time also adding the upgraded board that I've had sitting around and see how much of a difference it makes. From there, since the miniDSP will be installed I'll most likely go back to 3way with a budget Dayton Audio setup until I decide if I'm keeping the car or not.

If I do keep the car, a full Audiofrog 3way will be going in along with all the other performance parts I have sitting around.

Sorry for the delay in update, it's just been crazy over the last few months.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Motown65 View Post
Do you have measurements on the front doors? I havent pulled mine off yet but I havent ordered midbasses Incase I can fit an 8
I don't have measurements but an 8 would be very hard to fit without extensive modifications. There would definitely need to be some metal cutting and cutting of the door panel itself. The inner door panel doesn't allow much more than a 6.5 to fit, the door grille also slightly blocks some of the speaker cone on a 6.5.

Quote:
Originally Posted by captainbuff View Post
Glad you chose that path mate!
You never know when someone else with a similar mindset will roll up

I have an MY17 and a wardrobe full of quite nice audio gear with a thick layer of dust on it! I've had my time majorly eaten away by DIY renovations to a new house.

I'll admit that I am a little unsure of how I want to install everything as well. 'Unsure' both in where everything should go; but also whether or not differing install options are possibly a little more advanced than my skill level will allow!

Anyway I'll get back to reading your build log, cheers for the thread man...and props on that amplifier location! Some smart thinking and some clean ass wiring mate...nice

Peace
Thanks brotha, sorry I took a bit of a hiatus. I obviously have a very limited skill level as well but it's always fun trying out new things. Good luck!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Djtank View Post
‘17 wrx here ice silver like your ‘15. I’m curious how did 1 15” sound better than 2 15” in an IB setup? I’m actually in the process of buying a 3 way audiofrog Gb series for SQ build and want to do 15” IDMax IB with 2 of them I assumed would give me better SPL and same SQ.
The two ID subs were definitely louder in my IB setup but I also had more rattles that annoyed me, as well as it just didn't sound as tight/clean overall. Maybe the trunk wasn't enough airspace for both? I'm not sure how the IDMAX's would work though. I have an IDMAX 12 that I want to throw in a ported box or get a second and go IB as well. But we'll see...too many ideas in my head..lol

Quote:
Originally Posted by captainbuff View Post
G'day mate...I was just reading through the build log and didn't realise that 'Elvis had left the building' on this one. My apologies for dragging up an old thread mate. All the same your question is of interest to me.

I will be honest that I am no professional on any of this car audio type stuff - but I'm not a dumbass either; if I'm commenting on this forum then I have some idea what the topic is about - but all the same I have just a 'predisposition' towards cringing when someone says 'IB subs'. I do not doubt that I lack knowledge in the IB design arena...but I just have had the feeling overall that IB is a dreadful waste of a subs potential?

If you are inclined at all mate I'd appreciate you letting me know what your affinity for the IB arrangement is...theoretically it does this and that; but I have just not felt that in a practical environment results would be better IB than ported or sealed.

Especially with an IDMAX...doesn't the spec sheet say 'best suited to sealed enclosures'? Only questioning and hoping to learn mate; no offence intended



Not sure if you are still about mate but would be interested in how your build has taken shape...? I listed on here a while back that I had some gear but lacked enthusiasm, time, a decent design, and a little bit of FOFU...(fear of mucking up...I think the morphing f to m is reasonably obviously!). Any news on how yours has taken shape would be welcome man

With no offence intended I sort of thought the concept of putting 8's in the door had sort of 'been done' already and been proven as not necessary if you get a good 6.5" that can handle some power and frequency range...? Especially of note is beer mans constant reference to the flimsy construction of WRX...goddam when I take the interior carpet panels out it looks like piddly sheet metal! The potential for rattles and just 'overwhelming the door space' seems like a genuine statement.

As it does for the entire car. I know you want to keep stuff like sound deadening to a minimum due to weight (especially if you are dropping a turbo on it already? FML man do you have a build log on your engine shenanigans! i'd love to have a read....). I'm the same...I think in America you would call it like a Stage 2+ or something that I have done on my WRX; but anyway the thought of adding possibly 100kg all up if you have a decent system (220 pounds) is really counter productive to all the dollars dropped in the engine bay!

Love to hear any thoughts mate

Peace gents
I've listed some of the new iterations above. As far as going IB, sealed, or ported, it's all dependent on the sub and what your preference in sound is. They all have benefits and I'm ALWAYS switching to find the perfect substage but I always feel something is missing. The best sub setups I think I've had were a TC Sounds TC-3000 and Avalanche ported, followed by the single ID sub IB. So maybe it's time to go back to ported. lol
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Old 06-03-2019   #56
 
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Default Re: 2018 Subaru WRX

G'day mate, good to hear from you man!

Sorry for the delay in replyingfor some reason DIYMA doesnt like me commenting on anything (it probably has good judgement ) and a lot of the time just craps out when I try to submit a replylucky I took a copy of this all before trying to post it because it did the same thing again (and I REALLY didnt want to write this all again!)

Quote:
Originally Posted by beerdrnkr View Post
Sorry, I've been in the middle of purchasing a house
Say no more. Dam...I think I mentioned somewhere that I have had to put my car audio plans to the bottom of the list because of renovations to my house...I don't know about anyone else but I always have a few things that I want my way in a house. I'm no idiot with a hammer and a drill so I have a go at most jobs...and I think I do a pretty reasonable job for a guy who doesn't do that work for a living...it just takes three times as long and there always seem to be another two or three things added to the list once I finish one

Quote:
Originally Posted by beerdrnkr View Post
I've been messing around with a few different setups along the way.

I then tried the Clarus mids with the Dayton PS95 full range mids in the dash and it just sounded terrible. I think they'd do much better on-axis but off the windshield they're just terrible.
Thanks for the feedback on the differing drivers in differing configurations! I've just read back through them all and it's really valuable information man, greatly appreciated! If I could ask only one question it would have to be (assuming active three way front stage): after all Gains, TA, EQ and whatever else are set...would you be happy with the mid range in the factory location?

I understand the difficulty inherent in answering that as well! So many variables and and so subjective...

The importance to me is that I had all but ruled out installing the mid range in the factory location due to being so far off axis with potential for negative (beaming I think it is called?) off the windscreen. The paradox I was faced with was that fabricating an a pillar with a mid range and tweeter for a spanking new Scoobie Doo was beyond my skills; yet a local company wanted $1.5k Ausssie Dollars (~$1.2k USD) to do it (GTFO ).

On reading your build I am much more confident of at the least giving the factory location a go! It also helped expose the stupidity of the paradox I had created...which is better: gear sitting in your wardrobe because you don't like the location of one component, or gear in your car making noise and possibly you might have to compensate or just make do? Like I said...a bit of FOFU set in.

Just the top of your head thoughts are fine mate

I kinda do this sometimes where I write stuff down and wind up answering my own question

Quote:
Originally Posted by beerdrnkr View Post
I don't have measurements but an 8 would be very hard to fit without extensive modifications. There would definitely need to be some metal cutting and cutting of the door panel itself. The inner door panel doesn't allow much more than a 6.5 to fit, the door grille also slightly blocks some of the speaker cone on a 6.5.
+1. Just IMHO if you are wanting 8's in the door then you need better 6.5's or sound deadening or something else is letting you down. Speaking from SQ/SQL land!

Quote:
Originally Posted by beerdrnkr View Post
The two ID subs were definitely louder in my IB setup but I also had more rattles that annoyed me, as well as it just didn't sound as tight/clean overall. Maybe the trunk wasn't enough airspace for both? I'm not sure how the IDMAX's would work though. I have an IDMAX 12 that I want to throw in a ported box or get a second and go IB as well. But we'll see...too many ideas in my head..lol
LMAO...man I have modeled my IDMAX 12's probably 30-40 times!! I have to say that I could not come to a ported solution that I liked (but I have some bad OCD issues ). I think when I was modeling way back I had a certain CAD design drawn out that I loved and I was dead set against circular ports so I was basically modeling with too many constraints!

I will go back to the modeling board at some point and have a look at a ported solution again...at the end of the day I am happy with just a simple 55 litre (1.5 cubic feet) sealed box. My preference in music is rock - so I really am not after the low end extension of a ported solution so much - hey; I'm not for or against it and until I actually finish the house off it isn't going to find traction so it's all good! I would really like to invert their sexc ass's though

That is another BIG issue though that I think you mentioned a few times through your build. *rattles*. Anytime I take off an interior panel I just see an al foil external panel begging for some CLD! The entire boot (trunk) is BAD. Doors seem slightly better but they will still need a heap of treating...I have five boxes of Dynamat gathering dust as well...I think I could lose most of those just in the trunk space!

Dam mate...cheers for your updates and replies ay appreciate the thoughts and the actual decent feedback from someone who has been through it...and then some! I only intend to install my gear and then enjoy...music is my life (I think my avatar is my drum kit...well; half of it anyway) but I don't spend a heap of time enjoying it inside my car so I really just want to do the best job I can first time around and then move along...

...yeah like that's going to happen!

Cheers mate, throw down any updates you have and I'll put my gear in and throw some photos up here one day as well! Good luck with your house - for real if I could tell you one sensible thing - just move in and be happy with what's there. Serious I ripped out the backyard and a heap of the kitchen within a few months of moving in...that was nearly two years ago! It is just a Pandora's Box of time and money. Especially for a DIY inclined guy!

Cheers mate
Peace
Josh
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Old 06-03-2019   #57
 
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Default Re: 2018 Subaru WRX

Quote:
Originally Posted by beerdrnkr View Post
Pioneer NEX-2440 headunit

MiniDSP 8x12 processor

Arc Audio KS2500.1

Arc Audio XDi 1200.6 (tweets, midrange, and rear mids).

Arc Audio XDi 450.4 (bridged to midbass).
Apologies for the double post but I forgot to mention/query...

Not sure about the 2018 models (I think they stayed pretty much the same as the 2015/2016/2017); but I have a 100 Amp Alternator and a near new battery. Understood that the above components have all changed, that you are working with a lot of headroom, and that they are sexually explicit to read (if I want HAT's or AA gear I have to buy from over Eastern Australia and get it freighted); but my query was obviously on current draw issues.

There is a fair amount of power being pushed around there...any notable upgrades to the stock charging system? My apologies as I remember reading how you connected your power cable but I don't remember mention of anything else (Big 3, extra battery etc.). I don't think you added any so just querying if you upgraded the stock battery...or if you indeed did anything to the charging system?

Reason I ask is - I'll try to keep this short but it possibly is a little interesting - with WRX's in Australia there are a pile of things that they have to change (it's either so they meet 'Australian Standards' or because they are just the sort of things that you are going to want to change anyway...or a combo of both...idk entirely). Stuff like the battery, tyres, all fluids, (brake pads I think?) not sure about the entire list.

Anyway in true 'corporate greed' fashion they replace them with the cheapest rubbish you can get. Dunlop tyres, my mums Toyota Corolla has a bigger battery than mine (in terms of CCA etc.)...just stupid stuff that means you have to drop another couple grand to get 'performance quality' gear in certain places. It's accepted as part of the 'price to play'. Doesn't mean Subaru aren't a bunch of runts though...

So the point being I have only done 13,000 km's (~8,000 miles?) in my WRX and the battery has crapped out. It's a daily driver but I am retired so it doesn't get driven to work every day or whatever ('retired' is another long and more boring story!) and I keep good care of it. Still...battery crapped it and when I looked at it I think it was like barely 300 CCA or something. Just a bucket of ship.

So I'm interested in what the 'US spec' WRX's have in the charging department (I doubt the alternator would be different but the battery indubitably is); and like I said if you upgraded anything charging system related.

Cheers mate...appreciate the build log!
Peace
Josh

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Old 06-03-2019   #58
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Default Re: 2018 Subaru WRX

The IDMax15 models GREAT for IB, specifically in a WRX trunk. If you give it enough power, the large XMAX really helps it over others in simulation. However, I have settled on (2) AE SBP-15. They are reported as sounding great and in modeling they don't NEED a lot of power since they are more sensitive. I'm not finished with the doors but am confident that my 8"s will fit. Well, the FaitalPro 8 will fit. The Stevens Audio 8 . . . not a chance. Eric has a nice, beefy driver but wasn't designed for WRX doors. LOL. So, I'm throwing the FaitalPro's in the doors while I finish the rest of the system. I'll take my time in building kickpanels for the Stevens 8.

IMG_20190527_183341.jpg
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Old 06-03-2019   #59
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Default Re: 2018 Subaru WRX

Quote:
Originally Posted by captainbuff View Post
G'day mate, good to hear from you man!

Sorry for the delay in replyingfor some reason DIYMA doesnt like me commenting on anything (it probably has good judgement ) and a lot of the time just craps out when I try to submit a replylucky I took a copy of this all before trying to post it because it did the same thing again (and I REALLY didnt want to write this all again!)



Say no more. Dam...I think I mentioned somewhere that I have had to put my car audio plans to the bottom of the list because of renovations to my house...I don't know about anyone else but I always have a few things that I want my way in a house. I'm no idiot with a hammer and a drill so I have a go at most jobs...and I think I do a pretty reasonable job for a guy who doesn't do that work for a living...it just takes three times as long and there always seem to be another two or three things added to the list once I finish one



Thanks for the feedback on the differing drivers in differing configurations! I've just read back through them all and it's really valuable information man, greatly appreciated! If I could ask only one question it would have to be (assuming active three way front stage): after all Gains, TA, EQ and whatever else are set...would you be happy with the mid range in the factory location?

I think it's really driver dependent and something else I noticed playing around with different setups is that the factory grille is very restrictive and it was a big difference when I cut them open. I've heard some competitors vehicles that sounded fantastic with factory dash mids (last one being Audiofrog 2.5's in the dash) but I do believe it's vehicle/speaker dependent.

I understand the difficulty inherent in answering that as well! So many variables and and so subjective...

The importance to me is that I had all but ruled out installing the mid range in the factory location due to being so far off axis with potential for negative (beaming I think it is called?) off the windscreen. The paradox I was faced with was that fabricating an a pillar with a mid range and tweeter for a spanking new Scoobie Doo was beyond my skills; yet a local company wanted $1.5k Ausssie Dollars (~$1.2k USD) to do it (GTFO ).

Hence the reason I stuck with factory locations. lol


On reading your build I am much more confident of at the least giving the factory location a go! It also helped expose the stupidity of the paradox I had created...which is better: gear sitting in your wardrobe because you don't like the location of one component, or gear in your car making noise and possibly you might have to compensate or just make do? Like I said...a bit of FOFU set in.

Just the top of your head thoughts are fine mate

I kinda do this sometimes where I write stuff down and wind up answering my own question



+1. Just IMHO if you are wanting 8's in the door then you need better 6.5's or sound deadening or something else is letting you down. Speaking from SQ/SQL land!

I didn't think it would be possible without a lot of modification but it seems nyquistrate below figured it out! It would be awesome to fit 8's in the doors but of course a ton of sound deadening would be needed. Right now I have the doors pretty well dampened with very minimal rattle/buzz, I've been pretty happy with the midbass output.....but 8's are always a blast!


LMAO...man I have modeled my IDMAX 12's probably 30-40 times!! I have to say that I could not come to a ported solution that I liked (but I have some bad OCD issues ). I think when I was modeling way back I had a certain CAD design drawn out that I loved and I was dead set against circular ports so I was basically modeling with too many constraints!

I will go back to the modeling board at some point and have a look at a ported solution again...at the end of the day I am happy with just a simple 55 litre (1.5 cubic feet) sealed box. My preference in music is rock - so I really am not after the low end extension of a ported solution so much - hey; I'm not for or against it and until I actually finish the house off it isn't going to find traction so it's all good! I would really like to invert their sexc ass's though

I'm a fan of sealed and ported, that's why I'm always switching back and forth. The low end isn't usually a big deal until I get to a song where it is and it makes me rethink everything. However, I'm not very good at modeling subs and lately I've been going with prefab boxes that are close to the recommended specs for the sub. I had friends that were excellent at building boxes in the past but they either moved or are out of the hobby now. Maybe I just need to have one built that measure much better then the recommended box specs.


That is another BIG issue though that I think you mentioned a few times through your build. *rattles*. Anytime I take off an interior panel I just see an al foil external panel begging for some CLD! The entire boot (trunk) is BAD. Doors seem slightly better but they will still need a heap of treating...I have five boxes of Dynamat gathering dust as well...I think I could lose most of those just in the trunk space!

I feel that I dampened my rear deck better on my 2015 WRX then with my 2018, I don't remember having as many rattles as I do now I know you'd like to save as much weight as possible but I wouldn't skimp on dampening on the rear deck unless you really want to be annoyed. lol


Dam mate...cheers for your updates and replies ay appreciate the thoughts and the actual decent feedback from someone who has been through it...and then some! I only intend to install my gear and then enjoy...music is my life (I think my avatar is my drum kit...well; half of it anyway) but I don't spend a heap of time enjoying it inside my car so I really just want to do the best job I can first time around and then move along...

...yeah like that's going to happen!

Cheers mate, throw down any updates you have and I'll put my gear in and throw some photos up here one day as well! Good luck with your house - for real if I could tell you one sensible thing - just move in and be happy with what's there. Serious I ripped out the backyard and a heap of the kitchen within a few months of moving in...that was nearly two years ago! It is just a Pandora's Box of time and money. Especially for a DIY inclined guy!

Cheers mate
Peace
Josh
Definitely, yeah I'd love to see what you come up with. I've seen some pretty awesome builds with this platform.

As for the house, I already have the new flooring picked out and my wife must've won the lottery with all the other upgrades she wants to do. lol. Pretty sure the house will be a slow process but the garage gym and two Emotiva home theater systems are just about ready to go (priorities...)! Thanks for the comments.


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Originally Posted by captainbuff View Post
Apologies for the double post but I forgot to mention/query...

Not sure about the 2018 models (I think they stayed pretty much the same as the 2015/2016/2017); but I have a 100 Amp Alternator and a near new battery. Understood that the above components have all changed, that you are working with a lot of headroom, and that they are sexually explicit to read (if I want HAT's or AA gear I have to buy from over Eastern Australia and get it freighted); but my query was obviously on current draw issues.

There is a fair amount of power being pushed around there...any notable upgrades to the stock charging system? My apologies as I remember reading how you connected your power cable but I don't remember mention of anything else (Big 3, extra battery etc.). I don't think you added any so just querying if you upgraded the stock battery...or if you indeed did anything to the charging system?

Good question! I haven't done the big 3, upgraded the battery, or alternator. I do want to add a better battery and do the big 3, but like I stated previously I'm not sure if I'm keeping the car or not. I've read a ton of comments with people having their batteries die very quickly but I think it has been more due to cold weather. I live in San Diego, so I don't really have that problem. I'm at almost 17k miles and haven't had any issues whatsoever other than my TPMS sensors failing for some reason. All the lights are LED so maybe that makes a small difference as well. I'm probably not getting all the power I should out of the amps. I should add a voltage meter and see how bad it drops. If I do keep the car, a battery and big 3 upgrade will definitely happen. I'll take a photo of the battery soon and maybe you can compare it to your's and see if there's a difference.


Reason I ask is - I'll try to keep this short but it possibly is a little interesting - with WRX's in Australia there are a pile of things that they have to change (it's either so they meet 'Australian Standards' or because they are just the sort of things that you are going to want to change anyway...or a combo of both...idk entirely). Stuff like the battery, tyres, all fluids, (brake pads I think?) not sure about the entire list.

Anyway in true 'corporate greed' fashion they replace them with the cheapest rubbish you can get. Dunlop tyres, my mums Toyota Corolla has a bigger battery than mine (in terms of CCA etc.)...just stupid stuff that means you have to drop another couple grand to get 'performance quality' gear in certain places. It's accepted as part of the 'price to play'. Doesn't mean Subaru aren't a bunch of runts though...

So the point being I have only done 13,000 km's (~8,000 miles?) in my WRX and the battery has crapped out. It's a daily driver but I am retired so it doesn't get driven to work every day or whatever ('retired' is another long and more boring story!) and I keep good care of it. Still...battery crapped it and when I looked at it I think it was like barely 300 CCA or something. Just a bucket of ship.

So I'm interested in what the 'US spec' WRX's have in the charging department (I doubt the alternator would be different but the battery indubitably is); and like I said if you upgraded anything charging system related.

Cheers mate...appreciate the build log!
Peace
Josh

(Ctrl+A, Ctrl+C...cheers DIYMA...)
Quote:
Originally Posted by nyquistrate View Post
The IDMax15 models GREAT for IB, specifically in a WRX trunk. If you give it enough power, the large XMAX really helps it over others in simulation. However, I have settled on (2) AE SBP-15. They are reported as sounding great and in modeling they don't NEED a lot of power since they are more sensitive. I'm not finished with the doors but am confident that my 8"s will fit. Well, the FaitalPro 8 will fit. The Stevens Audio 8 . . . not a chance. Eric has a nice, beefy driver but wasn't designed for WRX doors. LOL. So, I'm throwing the FaitalPro's in the doors while I finish the rest of the system. I'll take my time in building kickpanels for the Stevens 8.

Attachment 243445
Attachment 243449
Attachment 243447
I've heard AE subs in the past and have read nothing but rave reviews about them so I'm sure you'll be happy. Do you have a build log? How do the Faital's sound, they're not a true "midbass woofer" correct? How far do they dig down? I'm sure if they go down to atleast 63hz-70hz it should still sound amazing especially most likely being low sensitivity.
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Default Re: 2018 Subaru WRX

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Originally Posted by beerdrnkr View Post
I've heard AE subs in the past and have read nothing but rave reviews about them so I'm sure you'll be happy. Do you have a build log? How do the Faital's sound, they're not a true "midbass woofer" correct? How far do they dig down? I'm sure if they go down to atleast 63hz-70hz it should still sound amazing especially most likely being low sensitivity.
I'm waiting to have a little more finished product before making a log. I have a few hundred pictures of behind-the-scene build stuff.

I don't expect the FaitalPro to dig deep like typical 'car audio' midbass drivers. They're more on the high efficiency route like pro audio. They are 95 dB (1 Watt) with only 80 Hz Fs. Anyway, it wasn't so much about this particular driver as much as an example of what can fit by cutting a larger hole. Here's the info if you're interested in dimensions:

https://www.parts-express.com/faital...EaArNAEALw_wcB
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Default Re: 2018 Subaru WRX

So I decided to keep the WRX and keep going with the build (performance and audio). I still have TGV/EGR Deletes and a Charge Pipe but I'll need another tune which gets a little pricey.

So I wanted to keep it as stock looking as possible and playing around with some different configurations. So I placed some Dayton mids and tweets right next to each other and I have Dayton mids in the doors. I'm running an arc xdi1200.6 and 1100.1. I have the same 3 Dayton 10s in a sealed box that I've had for a while and I'm pretty happy with them.

I tried installing my c-dsp 8x12 but for whatever reason I can't get it to work. It was working when I pulled it out. I replaced the old board with the new and I can't get it to link to my computer. I tried two different USB cables, I used a standard phone cable to hook up to the mini DSP controller (I cut the original) which I don't know if it works or not but the LED light on the controller isn't turning on. I'm going to see if there's an audio shop with a test bench that can see if the mini DSP is working or not. I'm thinking of just doing an all Dayton setup and just running the Dayton DSP if the mini DSP doesn't work.

I cut holes again in the stock grilles and wrapped them with some grille cloth and cut some of the foam padding in the dash mat to also let the speakers breathe. I'm running 3way off the pioneer hu only and splitting the sub RCA's to the sub amp and mids, midbass running mono. It sounds pretty good actually but a real DSP will really make a difference.

I have a spare battery on its way that I'll throw in the back just for extra juice. I might plan on throwing in the xdi600.4 and bridging the mids and midbass.

I didn't take many photos but I cut the material back on the grilles so they look a lot cleaner. They're also covered by the dash mat so they're hidden either way.

Just thought I'd give a quick update before work. Any tips on what might be wrong with the mini DSP please let me know.

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Default Re: 2018 Subaru WRX

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Originally Posted by beerdrnkr View Post
So I decided to keep the WRX and keep going with the build (performance and audio). I still have TGV/EGR Deletes and a Charge Pipe but I'll need another tune which gets a little pricey.
Nice...I'm sure I have mentioned that I live in Oz...but how much does a tune set you back in the States? I don't know a huge amount about engines; but from journeying around YouTube everyone in the States seems to get a Cobb AP. They can be bought in Oz but I don't think many guys get them (if any...). The superiority of a proper tune is just accepted I think. Problem being that it is $1.5k Australian ($1k USD) a pop for an EcuTEK tune...

Quote:
Originally Posted by beerdrnkr View Post
So I placed some Dayton mids and tweets right next to each other and I have Dayton mids in the doors. I'm running an arc xdi1200.6 and 1100.1. I have the same 3 Dayton 10s in a sealed box that I've had for a while and I'm pretty happy with them.

I tried installing my c-dsp 8x12 but for whatever reason I can't get it to work.

I'm running 3way off the pioneer hu only and splitting the sub RCA's to the sub amp and mids, midbass running mono. It sounds pretty good actually but a real DSP will really make a difference.

I have a spare battery on its way that I'll throw in the back just for extra juice. I might plan on throwing in the xdi600.4 and bridging the mids and midbass.

Just thought I'd give a quick update before work. Any tips on what might be wrong with the mini DSP please let me know.
Cheers for the update man...sorry I can't be much help with the miniDSP. I did look into them about 5-6 years ago. 'Reliability' struck me as their issue...

Interesting way of getting the mid bass running (splitting the sub RCA's)...maybe I'm a little slow but I'd have to see a proper schematic to see where you've set cross overs (both where in the signal chain and where in the frequency range) to really understand it; but I can think of a number of ways to do it so it's all good. If it sounds good then sweet

Just IMHO...hell yeah that needs a DSP! Splitting RCA's and running a 3 way front with mono mid bass reminds me of my younger days 'dodgy-ing' something together with whatever I had on hand no offence intended at all mate...just having a laugh!

After all...at least your gear is in your car...not collecting dust in a wardrobe whilst I soundproof a bedroom for my drum kit because all my neighbours are members of the 'fun police'. Seriously I love listening to your dog bark all night; what was I thinking playing a musical instrument...cunch of bunts.

Love the feedback on the three 10's though...I was told to go that way by a reputable car audio retailer here in Oz...starting to think I should have listened! Appreciate the update all the same mate, cheers
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Default Re: 2018 Subaru WRX

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Originally Posted by captainbuff View Post
Nice...I'm sure I have mentioned that I live in Oz...but how much does a tune set you back in the States? I don't know a huge amount about engines; but from journeying around YouTube everyone in the States seems to get a Cobb AP. They can be bought in Oz but I don't think many guys get them (if any...). The superiority of a proper tune is just accepted I think. Problem being that it is $1.5k Australian ($1k USD) a pop for an EcuTEK tune...



Cheers for the update man...sorry I can't be much help with the miniDSP. I did look into them about 5-6 years ago. 'Reliability' struck me as their issue...

Interesting way of getting the mid bass running (splitting the sub RCA's)...maybe I'm a little slow but I'd have to see a proper schematic to see where you've set cross overs (both where in the signal chain and where in the frequency range) to really understand it; but I can think of a number of ways to do it so it's all good. If it sounds good then sweet

Just IMHO...hell yeah that needs a DSP! Splitting RCA's and running a 3 way front with mono mid bass reminds me of my younger days 'dodgy-ing' something together with whatever I had on hand no offence intended at all mate...just having a laugh!

After all...at least your gear is in your car...not collecting dust in a wardrobe whilst I soundproof a bedroom for my drum kit because all my neighbours are members of the 'fun police'. Seriously I love listening to your dog bark all night; what was I thinking playing a musical instrument...cunch of bunts.

Love the feedback on the three 10's though...I was told to go that way by a reputable car audio retailer here in Oz...starting to think I should have listened! Appreciate the update all the same mate, cheers
Well I've had the cdsp-6x8 and 8x12 and never had any reliability issues, I have a feeling it may be my own screw up.

So the Pioneer has a pretty limited crossover, I believe I have the tweeters crossed over at 5khz, the mids from 250 or 300hz-5khz, and the sub outputs are from 250hz down, all at 24db slopes.

The sub outputs are then split to the amp for the midbass and the sub amp. The sub amp is low passed around 70hz or so and the midbass is high passed around the same on through the amp.

Time alignment is done through the HU, however, time aligning the midbass also does it to the sub so that's where things get a little out of whack in my system. Overall it sounds decent but a processor is definitely a must. Hope that somewhat clears things up. lol



As far as performance goes, the COBB usually you can get for around $400 and an E-Tune costs $250-$350ish depending on the tuner. The dyno tune cost me around $400-$450 if I remember correctly, but it's the better route to go if you can get a dyno tune.
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Default Re: 2018 Subaru WRX

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Well I've had the cdsp-6x8 and 8x12 and never had any reliability issues, I have a feeling it may be my own screw up.
All the best with it mate...actually when I think it was probably closer to a decade ago that I looked at miniDSP...as I remember they had one product that some guys were using with success in car audio and were about to release something more specialised to the 'car audio industry'. Apologies as I might have sounded a little 'anti-miniDSP'! That's not the case at all; if they work for you (or any others) then that's all good with me!

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Originally Posted by beerdrnkr View Post
So the Pioneer has a pretty limited crossover, I believe I have the tweeters crossed over at 5khz, the mids from 250 or 300hz-5khz, and the sub outputs are from 250hz down, all at 24db slopes.

The sub outputs are then split to the amp for the midbass and the sub amp. The sub amp is low passed around 70hz or so and the midbass is high passed around the same on through the amp.

Time alignment is done through the HU, however, time aligning the midbass also does it to the sub so that's where things get a little out of whack in my system. Overall it sounds decent but a processor is definitely a must. Hope that somewhat clears things up. lol
LMAO...when I was visualising how I would do what you described that's pretty much exactly what I would have done!

With the exception of fourth order slopes though (I'm assuming LR...?). Certainly a 'sub sonic' filter for subs I would set for 24dB (or higher if available). If in doubt definitely protect your drivers and go for fourth order LR slopes!

I was advised by the retailer that I bought most of my gear from to aim for 12 and even 6db/octave slopes...and when I queried him as to WTH? he replied 'it is always vehicle and system specific; however (in his experience) using longer roll offs made the overall response easier to control'.

I am only speaking theoretically though as I haven't installed a system in years...I first have to get my gear into my WRX before then reading back up on REW (if I can be bothered going to that extreme).

By no means saying yours are wrong mate; just maybe something that may be useful

Quote:
Originally Posted by beerdrnkr View Post
As far as performance goes, the COBB usually you can get for around $400 and an E-Tune costs $250-$350ish depending on the tuner. The dyno tune cost me around $400-$450 if I remember correctly, but it's the better route to go if you can get a dyno tune.
Cheers for that...sorry I think different people call it differing things (or maybe I don't know what to call anything ) but a 'dyno tune' as you call it is what I am referring to. Down under the set rate is about $1k USD so that compares OK with the dollars you are talking about.

Appreciate the update mate and whenever you get around to testing any other bits and pieces an update would be appreciated!

Cheers
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Default Re: 2018 Subaru WRX

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All the best with it mate...actually when I think it was probably closer to a decade ago that I looked at miniDSP...as I remember they had one product that some guys were using with success in car audio and were about to release something more specialised to the 'car audio industry'. Apologies as I might have sounded a little 'anti-miniDSP'! That's not the case at all; if they work for you (or any others) then that's all good with me!







LMAO...when I was visualising how I would do what you described that's pretty much exactly what I would have done!



With the exception of fourth order slopes though (I'm assuming LR...?). Certainly a 'sub sonic' filter for subs I would set for 24dB (or higher if available). If in doubt definitely protect your drivers and go for fourth order LR slopes!



I was advised by the retailer that I bought most of my gear from to aim for 12 and even 6db/octave slopes...and when I queried him as to WTH? he replied 'it is always vehicle and system specific; however (in his experience) using longer roll offs made the overall response easier to control'.



I am only speaking theoretically though as I haven't installed a system in years...I first have to get my gear into my WRX before then reading back up on REW (if I can be bothered going to that extreme).



By no means saying yours are wrong mate; just maybe something that may be useful







Cheers for that...sorry I think different people call it differing things (or maybe I don't know what to call anything ) but a 'dyno tune' as you call it is what I am referring to. Down under the set rate is about $1k USD so that compares OK with the dollars you are talking about.



Appreciate the update mate and whenever you get around to testing any other bits and pieces an update would be appreciated!



Cheers
I've played with different slopes in the past however I haven't recently just because I don't have the processing to push the system even further.

Yeah the Dyno tune is better to have because it's actually being done in real time with the tuner. Better then sending them logs through emails and getting revisions to the tune over and over again.

I'll be installing the EGR/TGV Deletes soon. The tuner I used previously moved out of California so I'll have to look for someone else now.

I have a Dayton DSP, controller, and wifi adapter on its way so it'll be a full Dayton audio setup soon.

I also added little grilles to the stock dash grilles to make them a little more rigid, with just grille cloth the dash mat would sort of sink into the speaker opening. Adding the mesh really helped clean things up a little. Looking like a solid budget setup for now, I do have some audiofrog gear waiting in the wings though if I ever decide to take things up a notch! Lol

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Default Re: 2018 Subaru WRX

Thanks for the pics. i have a 2013 but the speaker locations are the same. I personally grabbed the machined aluminum tweeter pod and aim it to the passenger head on my side /driver head on opposite. Much better response than on the dash which boost 4-6 kg and roll off after 12k.

Eventually I plan to add a midrange like the 2.5" morel or similar but on axis to 15* off really helps it sound natural and flatter. Not best pic but I had them. If curious, let me know. I also have been looking for interior parts that look less cheap as well but 2013s were even worse
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg IMG_0600.jpg (86.3 KB, 5 views)

Subaru Impreza - Pioneer MVH-1400NEX - Zapco Studio 100 - ESB DT 8.25 - Zapco ST-204D SQ - ESB 8.165 - Sundown SD3-10

Jeep Patriot - JBL MS8 - Alpine PDR-F50 - Kenwood KFC-XP6902C (6x9 + 2.75 wideband) - MB Quart P19 tweets - Alpine PDR-M65 - Boston Acoustics g5 10"
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Default Re: 2018 Subaru WRX

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Thanks for the pics. i have a 2013 but the speaker locations are the same. I personally grabbed the machined aluminum tweeter pod and aim it to the passenger head on my side /driver head on opposite. Much better response than on the dash which boost 4-6 kg and roll off after 12k.

Eventually I plan to add a midrange like the 2.5" morel or similar but on axis to 15* off really helps it sound natural and flatter. Not best pic but I had them. If curious, let me know. I also have been looking for interior parts that look less cheap as well but 2013s were even worse
Thanks for the info! I did grab some tweeter housings from madisound but I wanted to see how good I could get the stock locations to sound before going that route. I think I'm also going to get the accessport mount that mounts on the drivers side defroster which might cause some issues with either dash or pillar mounted tweeters.

I'd like to see how good I can have it sounding with factory locations and mediocre equipment before going all in. lol.

I've played with mids in the dash and tweeters in the a-pillars which sounded pretty good but the next route which I haven't had a chance to try would be a 3" or 4" concentric mid in one of those housings like you posted.

Are you just running two way at the moment?
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Default Re: 2018 Subaru WRX

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Thanks for the info! I did grab some tweeter housings from madisound but I wanted to see how good I could get the stock locations to sound before going that route. I think I'm also going to get the accessport mount that mounts on the drivers side defroster which might cause some issues with either dash or pillar mounted tweeters.

I'd like to see how good I can have it sounding with factory locations and mediocre equipment before going all in. lol.

I've played with mids in the dash and tweeters in the a-pillars which sounded pretty good but the next route which I haven't had a chance to try would be a 3" or 4" concentric mid in one of those housings like you posted.

Are you just running two way at the moment?
Yep. Just running esb 8000 2 way (previous version).

https://www.esbcar.com/8000-series

i agree that a 3" coaxial or a 2" that actually can play high would be the best solution. Custom fab or pods
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Subaru Impreza - Pioneer MVH-1400NEX - Zapco Studio 100 - ESB DT 8.25 - Zapco ST-204D SQ - ESB 8.165 - Sundown SD3-10

Jeep Patriot - JBL MS8 - Alpine PDR-F50 - Kenwood KFC-XP6902C (6x9 + 2.75 wideband) - MB Quart P19 tweets - Alpine PDR-M65 - Boston Acoustics g5 10"

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Default Re: 2018 Subaru WRX

New toys came in

Hopefully I can install it sometime next week.

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Default Re: 2018 Subaru WRX

Let me know if you have noise with the dayton dsp

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Default Re: 2018 Subaru WRX

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Originally Posted by tyroneshoes View Post
Let me know if you have noise with the dayton dsp
Will do!

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tyroneshoes (1 Week Ago)
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