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Default Digital Designs Components Question

Because my 4 channel amp took out parts of my system when it offed itself, i.e. My Alpine SPX-17Pro tweeter and my KDC-X998 head unit, I have been looking at other options for speakers in the doors. Right now I have SilverFlute 6.5" speakers and DD 2.75" speakers running as component speakers using JL Audio crossovers. I am impressed with the performance of my DD 2.75" speakers as "tweeters" so the thought occurred to me that they make component speakers. So I went looking. What I found on their website were these - DD Audio CC6.5a.

I am getting a new amplifier via warranty replacement so What I am thinking is because I have 3-way speaker openings in each door I would run the components (6.5" and Tweeter with the passive crossovers) off channels 1 and 2 and then run the DD 2.75" off channels 3 and 4 bandpassed via the DSP. Or some combination that yields good sound. My question is what are the thoughts on these components? They are a revised version for 2019 and have aluminum cones (cloth tweeter).
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Default Re: Digital Designs Components Question

TBH I never liked any driver from DD for SQ purpose, for SPL purpose I would go maybe with 9500 or 9900 or Z series, for midbass maybe old LT drivers in a 3-way front system.....

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Default Re: Digital Designs Components Question

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TBH I never liked any driver from DD for SQ purpose, for SPL purpose I would go maybe with 9500 or 9900 or Z series, for midbass maybe old LT drivers in a 3-way front system.....
I have pretty much looked past them myself. I have heard their mids and highs in my sisters boyfriends car and they were loud but I just got my hearing back in my ear after the surgery so I don't want to lose it just yet lol.
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Default Re: Digital Designs Components Question

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Originally Posted by Evl5150 View Post
I am getting a new amplifier via warranty replacement so What I am thinking is because I have 3-way speaker openings in each door I would run the components (6.5" and Tweeter with the passive crossovers) off channels 1 and 2 and then run the DD 2.75" off channels 3 and 4 bandpassed via the DSP. Or some combination that yields good sound. My question is what are the thoughts on these components? They are a revised version for 2019 and have aluminum cones (cloth tweeter).
cant speak for DD speakers, only subs. I do want to ask one thing about how you are trying to set up the 3 way. If you run the tweet and mid of the passive, and try to add the mid separately, I think you are going to get screwy sound. The band pass 2.75 mid from the dsp is going to have overlap from the midbass and tweet. If you are going to do it, you need to dump the passive and provide each speaker its own channel and separate frequency and specific xover points.
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Default Re: Digital Designs Components Question

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cant speak for DD speakers, only subs. I do want to ask one thing about how you are trying to set up the 3 way. If you run the tweet and mid of the passive, and try to add the mid separately, I think you are going to get screwy sound. The band pass 2.75 mid from the dsp is going to have overlap from the midbass and tweet. If you are going to do it, you need to dump the passive and provide each speaker its own channel and separate frequency and specific xover points.
I was actually thinking that I would run the 2.75" and tweeter on channel 1 and 2 and still use the passive crossover but use the DSP to set them to about 700 - 750hz and up and then run the 6.5"s on 3 and 4 band passed at 80ish to 700 - 750hz. Basically I am trying to use a 4 channel amp to cover 6 speakers.
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Default Re: Digital Designs Components Question

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Originally Posted by Evl5150 View Post
I was actually thinking that I would run the 2.75" and tweeter on channel 1 and 2 and still use the passive crossover but use the DSP to set them to about 700 - 750hz and up and then run the 6.5"s on 3 and 4 band passed at 80ish to 700 - 750hz. Basically I am trying to use a 4 channel amp to cover 6 speakers.
The passive crossover is designed around the tweeter and midbass, not the tweeter and midrange. Are you trying to run the tweeter and 2.75" midrange on the passive crossover? If I understand your idea correctly, that isn't going to work. If you keep the tweeter and midbass connected to the passive crossover, then add the 2.75" on the other channels, then you'll have both the 2.75" playing frequencies already being played by the component set. This will hurt your sound more than help. The idea that more speakers gives better sound is false, use as few speakers as possible.
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Default Re: Digital Designs Components Question

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Originally Posted by gijoe View Post
The passive crossover is designed around the tweeter and midbass, not the tweeter and midrange. Are you trying to run the tweeter and 2.75" midrange on the passive crossover? If I understand your idea correctly, that isn't going to work. If you keep the tweeter and midbass connected to the passive crossover, then add the 2.75" on the other channels, then you'll have both the 2.75" playing frequencies already being played by the component set. This will hurt your sound more than help. The idea that more speakers gives better sound is false, use as few speakers as possible.
Instead of using the 6.5" speaker in the component set with the passive crossover, I would use the 2.75" instead. So now my component set is a 2.75" and a 1.1" tweeter with passive crossover. I would then use the DSP to high pass the component sets at 700 - 750hz. The passive crossover would handle the crossing over of the tweeter.... so 4 speakers on two channels of the amp. On the other two channels I would band pass the 6.5" mids that were originally in the component set with the DSP.

The passive crossover is going to crossover at 3.5Khz to 4Khz for the tweeter so the 2.75" should have NO problems playing approximately 700hz to 3.5Khz. The 6.5" should be happy playing 80hz to 700hz. Ya follow?
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Default Re: Digital Designs Components Question

Right now My DSP is feeding 2 channels of an amp and the DSP is crossed over @100hz then sent to the two JL passive crossovers then to the 6.5" speakers and the 2.75" speakers. The 2.75" speakers are playing from the crossover point of the JL crossovers to 20Khz. They sound pretty good.
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Default Re: Digital Designs Components Question

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Instead of using the 6.5" speaker in the component set with the passive crossover, I would use the 2.75" instead. So now my component set is a 2.75" and a 1.1" tweeter with passive crossover. I would then use the DSP to high pass the component sets at 700 - 750hz. The passive crossover would handle the crossing over of the tweeter.... so 4 speakers on two channels of the amp. On the other two channels I would band pass the 6.5" mids that were originally in the component set with the DSP.

The passive crossover is going to crossover at 3.5Khz to 4Khz for the tweeter so the 2.75" should have NO problems playing approximately 700hz to 3.5Khz. The 6.5" should be happy playing 80hz to 700hz. Ya follow?
I follow, and it's a bad idea. At a minimum you need to know the resistance of both the midbass, and the midrange. The LPF in the passive crossover is dependent upon the resistance of speaker connected to it, so the LPF will only be the same if the 2.75" has the same resistance as the 6.5" that is supposed to go with that passive (which you aren't even using).

Even if they have the same resistance, they won't have the same sensitivity, so you won't have any way of making sure that the output is balanced between the midrange and tweeter. Those crossovers weren't even designed for how you're using them now, I sure as hell wouldn't use them the way you are describing.

You're not going to improve the sound of your system until you get proper crossovers, adding a 2.75" midrange is a bad idea.

If you're going to run active, do it right. Don't cheap out on 2 channels of amplification, especially when you can get a small 2-channel amp for $50.
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Default Re: Digital Designs Components Question

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I follow, and it's a bad idea. At a minimum you need to know the resistance of both the midbass, and the midrange. The LPF in the passive crossover is dependent upon the resistance of speaker connected to it, so the LPF will only be the same if the 2.75" has the same resistance as the 6.5" that is supposed to go with that passive (which you aren't even using).

Even if they have the same resistance, they won't have the same sensitivity, so you won't have any way of making sure that the output is balanced between the midrange and tweeter. Those crossovers weren't even designed for how you're using them now, I sure as hell wouldn't use them the way you are describing.

You're not going to improve the sound of your system until you get proper crossovers, adding a 2.75" midrange is a bad idea.

If you're going to run active, do it right. Don't cheap out on 2 channels of amplification, especially when you can get a small 2-channel amp for $50.
It's not about "cheaping out", I have a fully functioning RF Punch 250AII sitting here that I could use when my 4 channel gets back. I don't have the desire to mix and match the amplifiers for the final build. It bothers my enough already that my speakers aren't all the same brand.

Passive crossovers have one job, to split the output signal and send the different signals to different speakers. They aren't prejudice on what speakers are connected... proof being that my bastardized component sets are fully functioning and sound more than satisfactory. The speakers are only going to play the signals filtered to them. All this stuff is fully customizable. Just because the crossovers are JL doesn't mean I can't run Kenwood speakers with them or that I even have to run the same size speakers. When the sensitivity is different then post equalization will boost or cut the signals as needed. My buddy has been running my old JBL crossovers from a 2ohm set of components on 4ohm components for over a year and they are fine.

If you don't play around with things or try stuff you wouldn't normally do then you will never know if you could improve anything or if it could work. My situation is I have to wait wait wait for stereo components so I am experimenting. I am discovering new stuff and it's cool.

I am waiting on a new head unit and two amplifiers. While I am waiting I am experimenting and researching.
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Default Re: Digital Designs Components Question

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It's not about "cheaping out", I have a fully functioning RF Punch 250AII sitting here that I could use when my 4 channel gets back. I don't have the desire to mix and match the amplifiers for the final build. It bothers my enough already that my speakers aren't all the same brand.

Passive crossovers have one job, to split the output signal and send the different signals to different speakers. They aren't prejudice on what speakers are connected... proof being that my bastardized component sets are fully functioning and sound more than satisfactory. The speakers are only going to play the signals filtered to them. All this stuff is fully customizable. Just because the crossovers are JL doesn't mean I can't run Kenwood speakers with them or that I even have to run the same size speakers. When the sensitivity is different then post equalization will boost or cut the signals as needed. My buddy has been running my old JBL crossovers from a 2ohm set of components on 4ohm components for over a year and they are fine.

If you don't play around with things or try stuff you wouldn't normally do then you will never know if you could improve anything or if it could work. My situation is I have to wait wait wait for stereo components so I am experimenting. I am discovering new stuff and it's cool.

I am waiting on a new head unit and two amplifiers. While I am waiting I am experimenting and researching.

Clearly you don't understand, changing the resistance changes the crossover point. Halving the resistance will double the frequency of the LPF. A 4 ohm speaker on a 35uF capacitor will have a LPF of about 1,140hz, and 2 ohm speaker on that same capacitor will have a LPF of around 2,280 hz.

You're right that the crossover doesn't care what brand the speakers are, but it sure cares what resistance, and sensitivity are.
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Default Re: Digital Designs Components Question

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Clearly you don't understand, changing the resistance changes the crossover point. Halving the resistance will double the frequency of the LPF. A 4 ohm speaker on a 35uF capacitor will have a LPF of about 1,140hz, and 2 ohm speaker on that same capacitor will have a LPF of around 2,280 hz.

You're right that the crossover doesn't care what brand the speakers are, but it sure cares what resistance, and sensitivity are.
The speakers I am using are the same resistance as the JL speakers if that helps you. Though I don't believe the resistance of the speaker is going to affect the crossover point in the passive crossover. To change that, you would have to change the resistors in the crossover itself.
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Default Re: Digital Designs Components Question

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The speakers I am using are the same resistance as the JL speakers if that helps you. Though I don't believe the resistance of the speaker is going to affect the crossover point in the passive crossover. To change that, you would have to change the resistors in the crossover itself.
No! The capacitor in the the crossover, and the resistance of the speaker determine the crossover point. If you keep the capacitor the same, but wire a different load to the capacitor, you will change the crossover point. Doubling the resistance of the speaker will halve the LPF point.

Change the resistance of the speaker, change the crossover point.

The resistors in passive crossovers can play two roles. They can combine with the resistance of the speaker to create a specific crossover point when the speaker is wired to it. Or, more commonly, they are simply wired in series to reduce the voltage and make a loud speaker quieter. This is done so that the output of the mid and tweeter match. This is why the sensitivity of the speaker is important, and another reason why passive crossover are not universal. One tweeter may be several dB more, or less sensitive than another tweeter, so it could be much louder, or quieter than the tweeter that the passive crossover was designed for.
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Default

Somebody posted this and it helped me a lot

http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=1
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Default Re: Digital Designs Components Question

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No! The capacitor in the the crossover, and the resistance of the speaker determine the crossover point. If you keep the capacitor the same, but wire a different load to the capacitor, you will change the crossover point. Doubling the resistance of the speaker will halve the LPF point.

Change the resistance of the speaker, change the crossover point.

The resistors in passive crossovers can play two roles. They can combine with the resistance of the speaker to create a specific crossover point when the speaker is wired to it. Or, more commonly, they are simply wired in series to reduce the voltage and make a loud speaker quieter. This is done so that the output of the mid and tweeter match. This is why the sensitivity of the speaker is important, and another reason why passive crossover are not universal. One tweeter may be several dB more, or less sensitive than another tweeter, so it could be much louder, or quieter than the tweeter that the passive crossover was designed for.


The caps in a crossover filter out bass. The coils in a crossover filter out highs. The resistors in a crossover balance them out. The resistance of a driver is constantly changing as voltage is applied to the voice coil of the driver unless it is a constant frequency signwave. The voltage goes INTO the crossover, is split up, is sent to different speakers who's resistance is constantly changing. By your logic the crossover point would be constantly changing as well.
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Default Re: Digital Designs Components Question

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The caps in a crossover filter out bass. The coils in a crossover filter out highs. The resistors in a crossover balance them out. The resistance of a driver is constantly changing as voltage is applied to the voice coil of the driver unless it is a constant frequency signwave. The voltage goes INTO the crossover, is split up, is sent to different speakers who's resistance is constantly changing. By your logic the crossover point would be constantly changing as well.
It seems like you may know how a passive crossover works, yet you still don't understand that changing the resistance also changes the crossover point. You're starting to confuse me.

If you put a cap in series with a tweeter you create a HPF, right? If you put a 35 micro fared cap on a 4 ohm tweeter, you create a HPF at around 1,140hz, right? If you put that same capacitor in series with a 2 ohm tweeter the HPF will be 2,280hz, not 1,140 like with the 4 ohm tweeter.

The resistors are usually on the tweeter so that you can lower the output to match your midrange. If you use a tweeter that is a few dB more sensitive than the tweeter the crossover was designed for, then you may not enough attenuation to lower the tweeter to match the output of the mid.

You can Frankenstein your crossovers all you want, but if you have a DSP, and amp channels aren't a problem, why in the world would you want to use the passive crossover in the first place?
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Default Re: Digital Designs Components Question

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It seems like you may know how a passive crossover works, yet you still don't understand that changing the resistance also changes the crossover point. You're starting to confuse me.

If you put a cap in series with a tweeter you create a HPF, right? If you put a 35 micro fared cap on a 4 ohm tweeter, you create a HPF at around 1,140hz, right? If you put that same capacitor in series with a 2 ohm tweeter the HPF will be 2,280hz, not 1,140 like with the 4 ohm tweeter.

The resistors are usually on the tweeter so that you can lower the output to match your midrange. If you use a tweeter that is a few dB more sensitive than the tweeter the crossover was designed for, then you may not enough attenuation to lower the tweeter to match the output of the mid.

You can Frankenstein your crossovers all you want, but if you have a DSP, and amp channels aren't a problem, why in the world would you want to use the passive crossover in the first place?
Believe it or not, inside the actual crossover itself, it depends on how the caps are arranged between the positive and negative outputs to the speaker on how the crossover will act and affect the speaker.

I don't have all the amp channels yet... it will be an unknown amount of time before I have the 3 amplifiers I want plus the new Double Din eXcelon touchscreen. The US Acoustics Barbara Ann is the main amp and will be here in a week or so on a warranty replacement. Then its a US Acoustics Mike, and Wendy. I want my speakers to be the same brand name but finding speakers that fit is a pain in the arse. My DD 2.75" is nestled perfectly in the factory speaker pod above my SF 6.5". Since the 2.75" fits... and sounds good, I was curious about their other speakers. I may have the speakers before the amps. That is why I was talking about the crossovers. Once all parts are here, there will be no passive shitzzz lol.
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