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Bass with Large Opening in Door Panel?

3K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  LBaudio 
#1 · (Edited)
My car has very big opening in door panels. Like nothing on inner side. I covered them with big sheets Dynamat. I feel the bass is muddy and not much tight. How to improve it?

https://reflectology.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/20140723_165851.jpg
(not my door but same model.)
Equipment:
Head unit OE
Helix P Six MKII (Helix DSP2 and Zapco 6ch AP are going in.)
Sinfoni T25T
Scanspeak 10F
Sinfoni T165W
ARC Black 12" IB (Zapco ST-500XMII 300watt)
 
#2 ·
Just make a template of that giant hole, cut it out on a piece of 1/8” expanded pvc, damp the inside with some RESONIX cld squares,screw it to the door and try to use that bar in the middle as a support also then damp the outside and cover that up with RESONIX 1/2” ultra soft ccf. Next you have to make your own fast ring from 3/4” hard ccf, then finally damp the door panels with cld, wrap all clips with tesa tape at the base where the panel meets the door, put the panels back on and enjoy some super dead doors. Its very time consuming but is totally worth it.
 
#7 ·
Just make a template of that giant hole, cut it out on a piece of 1/8” expanded pvc, damp the inside with some RESONIX cld squares.
here is a little guide that you can follow that we did that follows exactly what Mullings is saying

https://resonixsoundsolutions.com/vehicle-database/2018-honda-accord-door/
Thanks guys. I think to go with fiberglass. Would 2 layer of fiberglass + some grids of dowel attached would be enough?
Cloth or Chopmat is better option?
https://www.amazon.com/Fantasycart-...9&s=gateway&sprefix=fiberglass,aps,170&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/Nordstrand-F...sprefix=fiberglass,aps,170&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1
 
#3 ·
Despite the size of that hole, it does look fairly straight forward to cover. Mullings is on the right track, find something rigid, but reasonably flexible, cut a template from cardboard, transfer the template to some aluminum flashing, or pvc, carefully determine where you can screw/bolt the material to the door without obstructing the door panel, or any of the window components, cover with more deadening material making sure to seal up all of the edges around your newly installed cover.

It's a bit of work, but it should help a lot. You're not so much trying to create a sealed enclosure (that just isn't possible in a car door), you're trying to prevent the sound waves from the back of the speaker from reflecting off the door and canceling out the front wave of the speaker.
 
#18 ·
IMHO that is the right way to go.
If you are not able to build a proper volume enclosure for your driver be it sealed or ported it is a waste of time and money.... with really good install the punch in the chest from 6,5 driver is possible...been there done that. My ported doorpanels are just one of them, but that is probably not too common type of install in car audio:rolleyes::cool::surprised:
 
#6 ·
If you're expecting to be punched in the chest by a 6.5" speaker, you're expecting too much. The subwoofer should be used for the majority of the bass, the midbass reinforces the upper bass. When they are tuned together well, the midbass will anchor the subbass in the front of the car, so it will feel like the midbass speakers are doing most of the work, when if fact the sub is.
 
#15 ·
 
#16 ·
Well, we have to stop vibration... we know this. It seems to me the most efficient way to do that is cross bracing if all else fails. A physical restraint.

Once in a panel van, we took pieces of metal and welded them so as to connect the outside akin with the inside frame, instead of allowing the curve in the sheet metal to provide all the strength. It just COULDNT flex. Worked out well.

Don’t weld it, as a coworker discovered. Use epoxy and do it in bare metal. Make sure the windows can move freely.

Lastly, curves are stronger than flat surfaces. On a different scale.... crush a crap ton of toothpicks or really thin dowel rods, mix them up into fiberglass resin, and smear them on a non-visible side of a door skin.... it’ll never flex again. Each toothpick is a curve, and distributes the load. Try on some scrap if you don’t believe.
 
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