Alpine KTP-445U Universal Power Pack Amplifier

Name: Alpine KTP-445U Universal Power Pack Amplifier
Price: 209.95 USD

Cross · Oct 14, 2021

So for about a year now I've been on a journey trying to beef up my car audio game and really get a great sounding system. I have a 2016 chevy cruze limited and for the longest time I only had a subwoofer that I added in the trunk and it did very well for a long time. I'm thinking I should've just stuck with that but I wanted to hear a more present sound in the front with more mids and highs.

I came across a forum that was targeted toward the cruze community. It had all kinds of topics such as car upgrades, common problems, maintenance, etc. Among the topics was a SQ Car Audio thread. I decided to read through it multiple times and I went ahead and purchased the items that were listed.

Items:

Amazon.com: Silver Flute W17RC38-04 6.5" Wool Cone Woofer - 4 ohm - Each : Electronics

Buy Silver Flute W17RC38-04 6.5" Wool Cone Woofer - 4 ohm - Each: Electronics - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: Peerless by Tymphany BC25SC06-04 1" Textile Dome Tweeter : Electronics

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: miniDSP 2x4 : Electronics

Buy miniDSP 2x4: Electronics - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

miniDC Isolator

www.minidsp.com

I bought a 4 channel amp and an LOC on my own which was:

Amazon.com: Alpine KTP-445U Universal Power Pack Amplifier : Electronics

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter with AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control : Everything Else

www.amazon.com

After quite a bit of time and work I finally got everything installed. New wires ran from each speaker location directly back to the LOC to the dsp and to the amp. Now comes the bs. I have insane noise that I've done about everything I can think of to try to eliminate and I can't get it fixed. On top of that the quality doesn't even sound any good. Today gave me a wake up call when I drove my wifes car, due to hating the sound mine makes, and hearing that her bare bone stock system sounds 10x better than mine! It's a 2012 camaro. Her door speakers thump and put out killer bass and the tweeters aren't bad either. It'd been so long since I heard a decent setup that I was blown away about how much better hers sounded. If I turn off my sub in the trunk I have zero bass at all. It's almost like I have tweeters installed only. You can make the case that my gains and stuff aren't setup right but I've messed with the settings 100 times and can't get any results on top of the junk noise I hear.

I have my oscilliscope that helps me read the Volts and I send 2V which is all the dsp can handle and it outputs .9V to an amp that runs on .2-4V. I'm confidant that my gain settings are just fine but my system is being bottlenecked or something by this dsp.

This is the thread I followed: The SQ Car Audio Thread V2

I'm just curious if this man was just a salesman or what happened. I've messaged him and never got any response but the other day I messaged him about purchasing a Big 3Kit and he responded the same day. So it seems like when you're purchasing something he'll answer.

I should've just stuck to doing it the way I see everyone else do it and get an Aftermarket headunit(which the "salesman" was against) and get a set of component speakers. Instead I kept my headunit and had to get an LOC and this DSP thing with another DC isolator to make the "noise" disappear and also get a plugin and have to load tunes and what not.

Pretty bummed out about this whole process and I just wish it would've worked. Still hoping it's something on my end that I may have fouled up on and then my equipment will burst to life like the salesman explains in his thread.

Is this equipment any good?

Cross · Dec 17, 2021

Well I'm back at it again. Thinking of taking another crack at this thing. I'm just not happy with the way it sounds. There's no more noticeable noise that I have to deal with but it just seems lacking. The front just sounds super tinny and flat. For instance on most of the music I play it sounds like the artist is pinching their nose when they're singing. If you could also pinch the instruments nose as well I'd say they sound comparable.

Mostly the same setup but I'll list it again.

Amp: Amazon.com: Alpine KTP-445U Universal Power Pack Amplifier : Electronics
DSP: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVWBSLH?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
LOC: Amazon.com
Doors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...as2&tag=xtremere0c-20&linkId=AINZNGOFXCIMWQ57
Tweets: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...as2&tag=xtremere0c-20&linkId=6FGHDMXZOEWO7CTP

My bass setup isn't listed because it works great. I used the setup for years before I decided to change my stock speakers and now I'm wishing I never even touched them because honestly the stock speakers sounded much better with my sub. I'm almost tempted to just install the stock speakers back in it and be satisfied with better quality but I just can't wrap my head around why I can't make this aftermarket setup work for me. The speakers are definitely much louder but they just seem super flat. I don't know if I need to change the amp out or start messing with the EQ on the DSP to get them sounding better. I'm trying to figure out what kind of amp I should get to replace my current one if I do take that route. I'm not trying to dump a ton of money into a new amp. I was hoping I could find one on amazon that I could just test the waters with and see if that fixes the tinny sound quality and if not be able to send it back. Any suggestions would be awesome!

If I can't get it figured out I may just go back too using my stock speakers and try to sell off all of this equipment. I doubt I'll be able to but are there places I can post this equipment other than my local marketplace that will help me sell?

I was gonna attempt to configure my eq settings like I had originally configured them with my MiniDSP but looking at my software for the MiniDSP I'm not sure how to copy and paste the settings. First of all There is a parametric eq after the input then that goes to a xover setting afterwards it splits into two individual parametric eqs for outputs 1 and 2. Then the same chain happens for output 3 and 4. So there is a main EQ that is configured for the right channel and then split into 2 outputs which then have individual eqs on them. I don't know if I can even achieve the same configuration with my new dsp. So I kinda stopped there. Stock is sounding better and better haha.

Cross · Sep 28, 2021

Hi all I just did an overhaul on my audio in a 2016 chevy cruze limited and that install is complete but now the techy stuff needs tinkering with.

I'm gonna try to list everything in this system so that there is no confusion and hopefully I can narrow down my issues.
Main Concerns
1. My tweeters overpower my mids and blast my ears before I can get close to my distortion number(32) on my factory headunit. Hit about number 20 and it's about the loudest I can comfortably listen but the mids are no where near how good they can get.
2. My door chimes/turn signals are now annoyingly loud and i'm not sure if there's equipment I need to install or how to bypass this.
3. I have a whining noise now that I would like to address.

I'll start by detailing the install. I disconnected my rear door speakers and am only running 2 front door woofers and 2 tweeters. They are each ran to their own channel on a compact 4 channel amp. I have an lc2i running from my factory radio and that feeds from the main output to a minidsp which then leads to the 4 channel amp that powers my front stage and then the bass output runs to a mono channel amp that powers a single 10" subwoofer. I have 4 gauge wiring that runs to a fuse block and it's grounded to the chassis of the vehicle and everything runs off of the block.

Equipment:

2016 Chevy Cruze Limited

Front stage setup
Door Speakers: Silver Flute W17RC38-04 ohm 6-1/2" Wool Cone
Pillar Tweeters: Vifa BC25SC06-04 1" Textile Dome Tweeter
LOC: Amazon.com: AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter with AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control : Everything Else
DSP: miniDSP 2x4
DSP Isolator: miniDC Isolator
4CH amp: Amazon.com: Alpine KTP-445U Universal Power Pack Amplifier : Electronics
Fuseblock: Amazon.com: WUPP 12 Volt Fuse Block, Waterproof Boat Fuse Panel with LED Warning Indicator Damp-Proof Cover - 6 Circuits with Negative Bus Fuse Box for Car Marine RV Truck DC 12-24V, Fuses Included : Automotive

Bass:
Subwoofer: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575P1S4102/Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-P1S4-10.html
Mono Amp: https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fos...ds=rockford+fosgate+amp&qid=1632792888&sr=8-7

I tried to include everything but I'm sure I've missed something. I'll add some more install notes now.
Each door was treated with deadener and I installed custom mdf speaker ring adapters with speaker foam tape as well as silicone baffles
to help seal the door speaker to the panel and direct the rear waves into an eggcrate foam pad. This whole setup was recommended on another
forum regarding chevy cruze audio installs. This person posted their setup piece by piece and had at least 20 other cruze owners using the components
and having solid results with them. They also posted the "tuning files" that matched the speakers I'm using and the same car interior which should get me
in the ballpark of a nice sounding system. Everything was great until I started setting the gains and here's why.

I started by setting my gains on the mids in my car. I had already come to the conclusion that my headunit sends out an undistorted signal at the number 32 so that's where I'll have my volume at. I unplugged all of the other speakers and ran a -3 db 1,000hz test tone. I heard volt matching is what you want to do to get your peak performance from your equipment and be sure you're getting the most powerful clean signal from your head unit to your amps. So my 4ch amp states it accepts 0.2V-4V and so on my LC2i I turned my main output up until it was hitting close to 4V. From there I started turning my gains up on my mids until I heard distortion. Then I played some music just to check and listen for distortion and wow my door speakers were sounding amazing! I was so happy with how powerful they hit and how much rumble I was getting from my doors. It really brought the sound to life. After that I plugged my tweeters in to match them and immediately boom! They were so powerfully loud I couldn't even break number 20 on my radio without my ears screaming. So at this point Idk what to do. I start fresh and cut the Volts in half from the LC2i. Now I'm sending 2Volts to my amp and this makes me have to turn the gain up much higher on my mids channel now and it doesn't sound nearly as nice. Even at this 2 Volst setting my tweeters are still overbearingly loud with 0 gain on their channel.

I wanna mention that in between the LC2i and the 4ch amp there is a miniDSP which is supposed to set my crossover points and set latency on each individual driver so that I have a more clean sound stage. Other than loading in this persons file that had "hours" of tuning and plugging it into my system I've done zero tweaking with how this person has the crossovers set. I'm curious if I bought a rta mic and tried to tweak the system and possibly roll the high frequencies down if it would solve the insane shrill noise they seem to have on my ears when trying to enjoy a nice booming sound.

But that then leads me to my next issue. If I do Volt match again and bring the Volts back to 4 where the mids sounded amazing previously then I will have a lot more noise in my system. There is a whining noise that increases as I rev the engine. On top of that a higher output from my LC2i means that my door chimes and turn signals will be even more insanely loud then they already are at 2volts. I've got a solid ground but I haven't done the big 3 upgrade which some sources claim may solve the whining issue. I'm tempted to take my vehicle to an audio shop and see if they could possibly tweak everything right but for whatever reason I have more faith in myself to learn it and adjust it properly then to trust the shops around here to touch my stuff lol.

Anyways I think I've covered the majority of my install and issues that need resolved so I hope someone could possibly shed some light on what could be my issue. I didn't mention any bass related stuff bc it's perfect and has no issues. I volt matched to 4 on that as well and set my gains with my oscilloscope and it packs way more power then i'll ever need so I mostly keep the bass knob turned to the lowest setting for regular listening.

Thanks in advance everyone!

Cross · Jul 27, 2021

Hello all,
I've got a question that I can't figure out and google ain't helping me out.
This is the first time I've used a DSP, a 4 channel amp, and running front stage only.
This is the DSP I'm using :miniDSP 2x4
This is my amp: Amazon.com: Alpine KTP-445U Universal Power Pack Amplifier

I've been recommended this setup on a related forum and people have had great success but I can't get any answers.
I'm running a LC2i: Amazon.com: AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter with AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control: Car Electronics
from my factory radio and tapping the Front speakers. From there I run the rcas out the main output to the dsp and then there's 4 outputs on the dsp
that run to my alpine amp. I've been told I need to run the amp in 2ch mode but I need a 4 channel amp which confuses me. Do I run the 4 outputs from the dsp to the 4 inputs on my alpine amp still? And if I put it in 2 channel mode what do I do from there? Also the dsp has a file that I loaded onto it which will delay the tweeters and woofers in the door to where they closely play together and hit my ear at the same time.

So my question is how do I wire this stuff together to get the information to each individual driver? The tweeters and woofers are wired in parallel so if I run the alpine back into the factory wiring how do they know which speaker needs which delay/crossover setting?

Thank you for any insight. I can understand using a 4 channel amp and separately wiring each channel to each tweeter and woofer. I don't understand getting a 4 channel amp and putting it in 2 ch to run 4 drivers with different delays.

ckirocz28 · Jul 27, 2021

Cross said:
Hello all,
I've got a question that I can't figure out and google ain't helping me out.
This is the first time I've used a DSP, a 4 channel amp, and running front stage only.
This is the DSP I'm using :miniDSP 2x4
This is my amp: Amazon.com: Alpine KTP-445U Universal Power Pack Amplifier

I've been recommended this setup on a related forum and people have had great success but I can't get any answers.
I'm running a LC2i: Amazon.com: AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter with AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control: Car Electronics
from my factory radio and tapping the Front speakers. From there I run the rcas out the main output to the dsp and then there's 4 outputs on the dsp
that run to my alpine amp. I've been told I need to run the amp in 2ch mode but I need a 4 channel amp which confuses me. Do I run the 4 outputs from the dsp to the 4 inputs on my alpine amp still? And if I put it in 2 channel mode what do I do from there? Also the dsp has a file that I loaded onto it which will delay the tweeters and woofers in the door to where they closely play together and hit my ear at the same time.

So my question is how do I wire this stuff together to get the information to each individual driver? The tweeters and woofers are wired in parallel so if I run the alpine back into the factory wiring how do they know which speaker needs which delay/crossover setting?

Thank you for any insight. I can understand using a 4 channel amp and separately wiring each channel to each tweeter and woofer. I don't understand getting a 4 channel amp and putting it in 2 ch to run 4 drivers with different delays.

Run the amp in 4 channel mode, otherwise there is no reason to have the 4 channel dsp. Wire 4 channels of rca cable from the dsp outputs to the 4 amp rca inputs, and wire the speakers individually to the 4 amp outputs. Make sure you have proper xovers set up in the dsp for the tweeters before you power them up. And don't use the factory speaker wires, run your own.

Cross · Jul 27, 2021

Ok it’s making more sense to me now. I didn’t understand people saying use 2 channel on a 4 channel amp. My car is a 2016 Chevy Cruze limited with the stock radio and no navigation or any extra stuff so I'm hoping there isn't any eq stuff happening. The forum I came from was for cruze owners and more specifically gen 1 cruzes where the interior design is similar and it was recommended to tap the front door speakers. I'm assuming I'll get a full range from there. I couldn't find any information online about the signals being sent to which location. Everyone just told me to I'd have to test the locations myself but I don't have the tools to do so atm. I did purchase the minidc and the moderator who put out the recommendation for the tweeters and woofers also had tune files available for the various pairs he chose. So I downloaded the files for my tweeter/woofer setup and loaded it onto the dsp using the advanced 2 way plugin. I’m not that advanced yet to know how to go about self tuning and I also didn't purchase a mic to do so but the moderator said his tune file would get you pretty close in the ball park. Maybe just physically measure your distance from how you sit in your seat to the drivers and adjust from there in the application.

I’ve purchased all the gear already so I’m hoping I can get everything working and sounding how I’d like. I actually made a diagram of how I was planning on wiring my stuff but after reading this I’ll have to change some things. Another concern of mine was how do I go about powering everything? Where should I get power from? Can I tap my loc, dsp, and other amp off of my main wire that lands in my sub Amps battery terminal or do I need to install a distribution block and send 1 lead to my sub amp and the other to my loc,dsp, 4ch amp? Also should I add inline fuses for my loc and my minidc? Same with the ground should I individually ground every component or can I tie them together at the amp or get another distribution block. The remote wire is a question as well. There are multiple components with remote in and out now. Before I just ran an add a circuit from my fuse box back to my sub amp. Now I've got multiple things that need remote signal. Can I run every remote in from my amps remote in? Or should I run the remote wire to my LOC remote in and then run the remote out from the loc to my two amps, and the minidc? I’ll post my diagram I made when I get off work. I’ll also add more info on my tweeters and woofers that were recommended.

Diagram added and it's a bit messy but I just tried to visualize how this will all tie together and then I can plan the install from there.

Woofers: Silver Flute W17RC38-04 ohm 6-1/2" Wool Cone
Tweeters: Vifa BC25SC06-04 1" Textile Dome Tweeter
4ch Amp: Amazon.com: Alpine KTP-445U Universal Power Pack Amplifier

Alpine KTP-445U Universal Power Pack Amplifier

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Is this even quality equipment!?

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Amazon.com: Silver Flute W17RC38-04 6.5" Wool Cone Woofer - 4 ohm - Each : Electronics

Amazon.com: Peerless by Tymphany BC25SC06-04 1" Textile Dome Tweeter : Electronics

Amazon.com: miniDSP 2x4 : Electronics

miniDC Isolator

Amazon.com: Alpine KTP-445U Universal Power Pack Amplifier : Electronics

Amazon.com: AudioControl LC2i 2 Channel Line Out Converter with AccuBASS and Subwoofer Control : Everything Else

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Tweeters melt my ears in new system!!?!

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DSP + 4 Channel Amp + Front Stage!?!?

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ckirocz28

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