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    1. · Registered
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      61 Posts
      Discussion Starter · #41 ·
      Well if your gonna have Nick tune it and you have yet to purchase any items it might be a good idea to have him participate in the design of the setup. This is what he does for a living and does a damn fine job of it if I may add. Do you have a DSP decided for the system? Do you have amplifiers and what is your source going to be? Are you planning on using your phone as the source or implementing the system with the factory head unit. Also what is your budget let's start with that then I can try to help you some more?
      You are absolutely right. I am here getting prepared to talk with him about the system, and work out what install locations to push for. Thanks for helping with this! I have a local shop I trust to get cable into doors, tap into high level outs from the head unit and run a turn on lead. I can do the rest.

      1. I have the Helix DSP 3s with the bluetooth onboard. So the source would be BT to the DSP and switch back to High level in from the DSP when I am not playing music. The car has USB based apple carplay etc. No way to get better than speaker level out form it for now.

      2. Amps I currently own.

      Drivers I own
      • X2 Audiofrog GB12D4s 1000rms = For a 1ohm load, Run in 2cf sealed
      • 2X Audiofrog GB25s
      • 2X Epique E150HE-44 5-1/2" 200rms DVC MMAG Extended Range Subwoofer 4 Ohm per Coil
      • Morel Ovation 5 set
      • Audison 6k AV3.5 & AV1.1 Tweeter with the passives crossovers
      Other
      • Dayton Audio UMM-6 USB Measurement Microphone
      • Two batcaps (Xstatic batcap X400) that are each rated for 1000watt system power.
      • Heated shop with everything
       
    2. · Registered
      Joined
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      403 Posts
      Just found out that the center speaker is not a part of the audio system, so center is a no go. Seems like it would be better to use ch 7 for rear fill, if it can be run mono. I remember in the helix mixing right and left for rear fill. I would need another amp. Could use either the gb25s or a morel ovation 5 set I have. Not sure if a tweeter is needed.

      There are a bunch of options for the price of the GB40+GB10. Around$750 used. Up to $1200. Some mids for much less. I don’t really know if using a 5.25 or 6.5 has disadvantages for 150-2500hz. I will drive to NY to have Nick from Vanguard Automotive Design tune it. What do you think he will recommend?

      Plenty of options to run a larger mid.

      Focal
      Focal Utopia Be 165W-RC
      $1200

      Dynaudio
      Esotar 650.2 $700
      DYNAUDIO MD 102 $286
      $1000

      Morel
      Morel Elate Ti 502 Active 5-1/4" Titanium 2-Way Component Speakers
      $809

      IIllusion Audio
      C6 Component Set
      $820

      Madisound
      Don’t understand mixing these 50rms drivers with 80-100rms tweets and 200rms MB? The amp is 150x4.
      Scanspeak 15W/4531G Revelator 5.5" Woofer, 4 ohm / .3Qts $440
      SB Acoustics SB12NRX25-04 4" woofer- 4 ohms / .4Qts $130
      SB15CRC30-4 5" Woven Carbon Fiber / .32Qts $220
      SB Acoustics SB15NRX2C30-4 / .28Qts $130
      You are absolutely right. I am here getting prepared to talk with him about the system, and work out what install locations to push for. Thanks for helping with this! I have a local shop I trust to get cable into doors, tap into high level outs from the head unit and run a turn on lead. I can do the rest.

      1. I have the Helix DSP 3s with the bluetooth onboard. So the source would be BT to the DSP and switch back to High level in from the DSP when I am not playing music. The car has USB based apple carplay etc. No way to get better than speaker level out form it for now.

      2. Amps I currently own.


      Drivers I own
      • X2 Audiofrog GB12D4s 1000rms = For a 1ohm load, Run in 2cf sealed
      • 2X Audiofrog GB25s
      • 2X Epique E150HE-44 5-1/2" 200rms DVC MMAG Extended Range Subwoofer 4 Ohm per Coil
      • Morel Ovation 5 set
      • Audison 6k AV3.5 & AV1.1 Tweeter with the passives crossovers
      Other
      • Dayton Audio UMM-6 USB Measurement Microphone
      • Two batcaps (Xstatic batcap X400) that are each rated for 1000watt system power.
      • Heated shop with everything
      Are you ovations integras or the 2 way set? If they are the 2 way set I would try something like this I would use the Epique's under your seats for Midbass ran off the Sdx 200.2. For midrange I would try that Ovation midrange unless there is a reason you don't want to use it I would then use the 5 channel Sundown to power those the Subs and tweets. For tweeters if you are gonna be crossing over low like under 2500hz your gonna have to spend there, I would recommend something like the Bliesma t34 which is one of the best tweeters in the world.
      From the sounds of it it looks as if you have the equipment already to pit together a nice setup. If you are really set on upgrading your speakers I would say there is no benefit to using a 6.5 in in the door when you are running midbass underseat this actually would leave you at a disadvantage vs a 4in or 5in driver due to beaming with the drivers off axis especially the driver door. I see you mentioned Sb Acoustics above and if you wanted to go that route I have a set of Mnrx12 midrange that I would be willing be willing to sale you for a good price. I will say they make really excellent drivers for the price and the textreme vs of the Satori13 Mr or mw would be at the top of my list to go in your doors if I was in your situation if they fit. You could then match them up with Sb beryllium 29mm tweeters and have something capable of producing magic for cheaper than some of the other options you listed. Just a thought. Just remember the speakers themselves are maybe 5 to 10% of the magic. The rest being Installation, application and tuning getting you the majority of your gains so concentrate on those things and you could have something really nice with the stuff you already have (y)
       

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