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61 Posts
You are absolutely right. I am here getting prepared to talk with him about the system, and work out what install locations to push for. Thanks for helping with this! I have a local shop I trust to get cable into doors, tap into high level outs from the head unit and run a turn on lead. I can do the rest.Well if your gonna have Nick tune it and you have yet to purchase any items it might be a good idea to have him participate in the design of the setup. This is what he does for a living and does a damn fine job of it if I may add. Do you have a DSP decided for the system? Do you have amplifiers and what is your source going to be? Are you planning on using your phone as the source or implementing the system with the factory head unit. Also what is your budget let's start with that then I can try to help you some more?
- I have the Helix DSP 3s with the bluetooth onboard. So the source would be BT to the DSP and switch back to High level in from the DSP when I am not playing music. The car has USB based apple carplay etc. No way to get better than speaker level out form it for now.
- Amps I currently own.
- Alpine PDX-4.150 =150 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (150 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms), 300 watts RMS x 2 in bridged mode (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
- Sundown Audio SFB1000 = 1000w at 1 ohm
- Sundown Audio SDX-200.2 x 310W RMS @2ohms
- Sundown Audio SFB 1800.5D = 1-2 channel at 2 ohm - 300w, 3-4 channel at 4 ohms 200 w rms, 5 channel, at 1 ohm: 1000w
- Sundown Audio SFB-500.4 = [email protected], [email protected]
Drivers I own
- X2 Audiofrog GB12D4s 1000rms = For a 1ohm load, Run in 2cf sealed
- 2X Audiofrog GB25s
- 2X Epique E150HE-44 5-1/2" 200rms DVC MMAG Extended Range Subwoofer 4 Ohm per Coil
- Morel Ovation 5 set
- Audison 6k AV3.5 & AV1.1 Tweeter with the passives crossovers
- Dayton Audio UMM-6 USB Measurement Microphone
- Two batcaps (Xstatic batcap X400) that are each rated for 1000watt system power.
- Heated shop with everything