Oh interesting, so someone already did the tuning with these drivers and amp for your car (hopefully the same amp as you will need the same output level he used). You just have to install them in the same location. It also assumes your head position woulds be in the same location. After you get things installed you can start playing with the tune a bit mics are 50-100 $ and the software is free, just requires a windows laptop.Ok it’s making more sense to me now. I didn’t understand people saying use 2 channel on a 4 channel amp. My car is a 2016 Chevy Cruze limited with the stock radio and no navigation or any extra stuff so I'm hoping there isn't any eq stuff happening. The forum I came from was for cruze owners and more specifically gen 1 cruzes where the interior design is similar and it was recommended to tap the front door speakers. I'm assuming I'll get a full range from there. I couldn't find any information online about the signals being sent to which location. Everyone just told me to I'd have to test the locations myself but I don't have the tools to do so atm. I did purchase the minidc and the moderator who put out the recommendation for the tweeters and woofers also had tune files available for the various pairs he chose. So I downloaded the files for my tweeter/woofer setup and loaded it onto the dsp using the advanced 2 way plugin. I’m not that advanced yet to know how to go about self tuning and I also didn't purchase a mic to do so but the moderator said his tune file would get you pretty close in the ball park. Maybe just physically measure your distance from how you sit in your seat to the drivers and adjust from there in the application.
With regards to TA, you might have to set that a bit differently if the location of the subwoofer is different than his. Because the subwoofer is the furthest away from you, the delay for the subwoofer is Zero. Which for you is important since the DSP is only 4 channels for the front stage. Next you delay the drivers that are closer to your head with respect to the subwoofer.
Here is an easier calculator for you to use.
You need to make sure the power wire you ran for the subwoofer has enough capacity for the addition amp. I would recommend a fused distribution block. Even this cheap one works well enough.I’ve purchased all the gear already so I’m hoping I can get everything working and sounding how I’d like. I actually made a diagram of how I was planning on wiring my stuff but after reading this I’ll have to change some things. Another concern of mine was how do I go about powering everything? Where should I get power from? Can I tap my loc, dsp, and other amp off of my main wire that lands in my sub Amps battery terminal or do I need to install a distribution block and send 1 lead to my sub amp and the other to my loc,dsp, 4ch amp? Also should I add inline fuses for my loc and my minidc? Same with the ground should I individually ground every component or can I tie them together at the amp or get another distribution block. The remote wire is a question as well. There are multiple components with remote in and out now. Before I just ran an add a circuit from my fuse box back to my sub amp. Now I've got multiple things that need remote signal. Can I run every remote in from my amps remote in? Or should I run the remote wire to my LOC remote in and then run the remote out from the loc to my two amps, and the minidc? I’ll post my diagram I made when I get off work. I’ll also add more info on my tweeters and woofers that were recommended.
This is a combo power and ground block.

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For the smaller loads like the miniDC, LOC, etc use the in line fuse (5amp or whatever) on top of where ever you install in the distribution block if it doesn't include a fuse with the correct current. For example, say your miniDC has a 5 amp fuse and you run some 12 gauge or 14 gauge wire. The smallest fuse size is 30 amps (from the distro block above) so to properly protect the wire from shorts you need an inline fuse of the appropriate size.
Another option would be to use a distroblock like this for the smaller devices. This option works pretty well since your 4 channel amp has current rating of 15 amps and the LOC and miniDC/DSP is probably around 5 amps. The subwoofer power could just pass through the terminal.

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I think this option 2 is technically the correct way to do it but you could probably get away with option one without burning anything down.
Ok for the remote wire I would take your switched power from the vehicle and run that directly to the miniDC. If the LOC is "on the way" to where ever the miniDC is installed than its Ok to wire it inline with that first. However, you will want every amplifier wired off the miniDC remote out because it has a delay on/off. If the you have some amps turning on and off at different times you can sometimes get a thump. It also makes things easier to wire when you simply daisy chain from miniDC remote out to the Sub Amp and the to 4 ch amp.