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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Fitting the baffles today. Try to sort out the entire enclosure today, actually. Still need to incorporate the vents into the baffles. It’s a shame it will all be covered when the dash goes back together. Well, the “mids” will show. Looks pretty damn tough.

Models to an f3 of 37Hz, 6db ripple at 55Hz. High pass them at 40Hz. Should be good for 115db at 55Hz without the subs or cabin gain. Talk about some up-front bass!
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Are you adding a center channel? If not, 6 is better than 4!
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Are you adding a center channel? If not, 6 is better than 4!
Hahaha! Yes, Indeed! However, that void in the center is occupied by the defroster ducting and while I'm going hard on this thing, I don't want to go THAT hard. Cutting the floor pan and eliminating the fresh-air functionality was probably hard enough for a while.
 

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Yeah it is!
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
Little movement on the project lately. Been dealing with some heavy personal stuff and am happy to have it as a distraction though. Got the subwoofer baffle set in place.

Reinforced the midbass baffles. They look mad ghetto but they’ll be about as dead as I can get 1/2” plywood - and they’ll be covered so I’m not worried about their appearance. Ran 3/4” mdf on the bottom and 1/2” ply patches on top in sections. Some sections are as thick as 2-1/4, while others are still 1/2”. Probably tack some “duct seal” in place where I can once it’s in. The enclosures are more generous than I’d estimated so I’m getting less ripple and lower extension but a bit more cone movement than I’d estimated. 12mm peak-to-peak excursion will get these little baffles jumping if I don’t deaden the hell out of them!
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Try to fit the ports today. Getting my first vaccine dose this afternoon so I’ll see how that goes first.

I modeled the midbasses against a nice off-the-shelf Alpine 12” subwoofer you’d pick up at Best Buy or something, in a 5ft^3 PORTED enclosure. Alpine at 450 watts (green line), midbasses at 250w total RMS (red line). My DASH beats the pants off that thing until 40Hz where they’ll get cut and the fifteens take over anyway 😎 Of course, the alpine can take more power but that’s shown with the amp channels I am using, and the Alpine would need to run 1000w+ to keep up over 50Hz anyway! These are supposed to be midbasses after all.
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This is such a cool build to me. I actually saw your thread over on Vwvortex the other day too!

Im a long time vw and stereo dabbler, I got a 5 speed ALH beetle that im driving now since we upgraded the wife to a new Tiguan. It's been tough to design, as I need what little trunk space we have to remain, Your build has sparked some out of the box thought and inspiration for me!

Everyone hates on the beetles but I've never had a vehicle that was so easy to get to sound decent right off the bat with just a very basic 2 way + sub and a minute of half-assed tape measure t/a. I can't wait to get some time to actually sit down and tune.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Hell yeah man. Thank you. Life came at me hard recently but I’m hoping to put some hours in on it this week. If I were sane, I would’ve settled for a sealed/IB configuration in the dash but I’m going for broke. No one but this odd little niche corner of the internet here has any idea what it means but yeah, 3” port tuned to 35Hz in your dash!? Wtf other vehicle can pull that off!? Nevermind the bad azz path lengths we have to work with on the dash too! I’m certain this will be a masterpiece - if not of legit SQ, certainly of “up front bass”!

And yeah, after some measuring and test fitting I settled on one 3” ported chamber for the midbasses, rather than two isolated chambers with smaller ports. Probably means the midbasses will have to stay time aligned equally left-to-right to avoid cancellation issues with the port. I’m good with that though. Running a single large chamber with that port, some eq and a STEEP high pass at fb should net dead flat response to 40Hz and an f3 around 35Hz - without cabin gain... in my dash.
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Took one last pic before I pull the sub baffle (again) for the last time, bed line it and install the grate and screen this week. Them flames tho.
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Bling Bling!
 

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You'll definitely still get quite a bit of cabin gain/boundary-loading with the midbass drivers up on your dash. It's just a question of where the peak & null modes will end up relative to your listening position.

But you'll have the advantage of being able to play a bit more with your midbass vs IB subwoofer XOs and integration to help fill in any nulls and smooth the response.
 

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Exactly! Reminds me of the 4 x 6.5" BP4 in my 96 Ford Ranger SuperCab. I had the port firing at the front. The box is still going strong in my son's apartment. The enclosure was built in 2004.

from Handset_20111106150111_152.jpg
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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Coated the register and body lines where I cut the tire cavity with POR15 last night. Mount that and the screen today. Should keep bugs, critters and water out but still allow for drainage if any moisture accumulates.
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Ugly, but effective.
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Things started to feel really real in the hatch today. I was able to steal a few hours, mount the vent and screen, finish and carpet the baffle, and test fit one last time. Came out super clean, I think. Very German. Hahaha.
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Underneath, the barrier is not pretty but should do its job.
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Waiting on a port section for the dash and then I’ll finish that up. Still probably a few weeks with everything else going on before it’s live, but today felt like a big step.
 
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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
Got to messing with the midbass port today. Epoxied the 90 section through a half inch ring and routed with a 3/4” round-over bit. Not my best work without anything to rest the router face against. Certainly not pretty, but should be effective.
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There’s not enough room in the dash cavity for a proper flare on the other end so I cut a 3” coupling (3.5” ID) at an angle and chamfered the edges of that and the port inside. Should cut down on chuffing nearly as well as a proper velocity stack. I may yet run a small bead of body filler to bridge the gap and smooth the transition on the long side there.
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Thats probably it for a while. Life is hectic. Next order of business is running cables for the amplifier and sealing the dash cavity. Cables will have to run through there and it’s going to be a PITA to open it back up when I’m done!
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
Need to pull the extended port section, run some body filler in there and smooth it out. Move some dash harnesses around too! Looking wild in there though!
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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
[email protected], ported mid basses in the dash(y)
Yeah buddy! What I lack in resources, I'm trying to compensate for with ingenuity and balls! Bass should be alright in this thing. Lol.

Had I only known these beetles had this potential, I'd have owned one years ago. @Jreindel will back me up. The dash is so deep on these things, you've got great (relative) path length equality on the dash as well. I'm actually planning on making this a two-seat car (GASP!!!) which my passengers have noted would be cool my last few builds. That poses its own set of challenges. Should be fun.
 

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So the FWD Beetles got just as much upfront space as the RWD Beetles?
 

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Discussion Starter · #58 ·
So the FWD Beetles got just as much upfront space as the RWD Beetles?
Well, not really. The way they're built though, to achieve that look, the "rain tray" is almost entirely in the car and the cowl extends over 1/3 of the engine. I'm sealing that rain tray for the midbass enclosure. Anyway, the dash is super long and there's loads of room before you hit the windshield. Path lengths to my full range drivers differ by a foot, and the left pod will be about 4 feet away!
 

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What's the term Chrysler called that look??? I remember it was used on the wife's ex 1995 Dodge Neon Sport Sedan. It was about pushing the wheels to the corners of the body and having sloping front and rear glass. That's 1 of the reasons why no car could beat the Neon in it's class in autocross and scca run offs.
 
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