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36K views 311 replies 36 participants last post by  IBcivic 
#1 · (Edited)
My primary goal is to re-gain as much trunk real-estate as possible and retain easy spare tire access.
I decided to ditch the existing wooded amp rack, for a lighter weight and stronger, more compact false floor/amp-rack.

To accomplish my goal, metal tubing had to be used, so i bought myself a new toy:)

Special thanx for Travis[a.k.a. Salad Fingers] for the Hertz/Audison stickers.
 

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#2 ·
I'm not going to explain the step by step, so i'll let the images speak for themselves.
The idea was to hide everything in the spare tire well, hanging, right over the spare tire w/o touching it and retaining full access to the tire and tools.
Since I switched to the MS-8 processor and wanted to fully exploit it's potential, i had to add a few channels of amplification for the center and rear speakers.:)
 

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#5 · (Edited)
Carpeted and semi cleaned up.:cool:
I need to start wiring this up:)
edit> The large gap between the MS-8 & the Arc ks amp[last image on the right], is for a small 4 ch amp to drive the center channel and rear coaxials.
 

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#6 ·
Before someone comments on the ventilation grills,not being in line.....
There is a simple explanation. The spare tire well is offset to the left to make room for the oem muffler. So, the grill for the intake fans are centered with the spare tire well and the exhaust grill is centered with the inside of the trunk.
 
#13 ·
My subs are AE IB12 8ohm wired in parallel. There is no enclosure, just a wall. The center channel is still under development in my head. Let me tell you this, it will be unique;).

My front stage will be composed of the following>
L1 PRO SE, L3 PRO SE in the pillars.
L8 in the doors
Jl C5 coaxials for rearfill
Boston Pro50 c-channel[due to size constraints]
 

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#14 ·
.... for a lighter weight and stronger, more compact false floor/amp-rack.

To accomplish my goal, metal tubing had to be used...
Is there a reason you are using square tubing?

I was talking to a metal worker the other day hoping to do some metal rack for my amplifiers and he said that "L" strips would be plenty strong. Is he right?

From what I see it would be "easier" to weld the structure with the "L" strip and he has access to this material.
 
#15 ·
Yes, I suppose it could be plenty strong, if it is well thought out. Angle iron, just does not have the torsional resistance a tube possesses, but I don't see why it would not work. I used 1/2'' square tubing +1/4'' birch plywood[screwed n glued]. Why 1/2'' tubing?....it gave me the strength to weight ratio i was looking for.
 
#16 · (Edited)
This is taken from my previous build thread.
Basically i had 1/4'' steel rings cut on a cnc plasma cutter and welded it in place, using 1/4'' dia. stilts and the ring is also attached to the door's re-enforcment bar, to make the woofer mount as rigid as possible. The gap behind the ring was filled with bondo-hair. The door was treated with 1/8'' hdf [to block the holes] and rubberized undercoating was applied to the hdf , to prevent it from absorbing moisture. A layer of dynamat extreme was applied and the woofer surround is mass loaded/dampened with top quality duct seal compound.
 

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#21 · (Edited)
thank you.
i'm a machinist by trade, but never really worked as a ''machinist'' . i basically ran maintenance and repair shops[in various domains], until i got a travelling job as a service tech/tech consultant 11 years ago. and for the past 6 years, i have been installing and servicing orchestra pit lifts and theater rigging. and as a kid/teen my main hobby was building stuff published in popular electronics.
you can say, jack of all trades , master of none.

here is something my current employer manufactures

http://www.galainfo.com/en/video_rich.htm
 
#24 ·
So I only got a couple things to say. Number one, outstanding work my friend as usual. Number two, I'm guessing that by some peoples response, you're not nearly flashy enough and should probably vibrantly paint your amps and show them off. Third, where are your door build pics with the hdf? I want to see this cause yours came out very flat, mine not so flat and I have issues with the door trim staying on, or did anyway. Lastly, what will it take to get you to Sactown to build my amp rack out of metal! LOL!

Keep up the good work. I'm very impressed! Way to go!
 
#28 ·
Third, where are your door build pics with the hdf? I want to see this cause yours came out very flat, mine not so flat and I have issues with the door trim staying on, or did anyway.
i did not take many pics of my door plugs, 'cause they were done really quickly. i just made cardboard templates that fit perfectly on the lip in the depressions. are your cables causing the bumps? if that is the case, i cut slits to accommodate them and closed the slits with dampener.
 
#25 ·
thanx , scooter!

i was thinking> fire engine red heat-sinks with gold dragons air-brush work and replacing the carpeted floor panels with multi-colored lighted plexiglass tiles..:p





on a serious note> man, what a difference in trunk space!!!!!!!!!!
I was able to fit all my travel bags with room to spare. FUNCTION OVER FLASH:cool:
 
#27 ·
Although , i have not yet played music through the woofers, i did knock the perimeter of the metal baffle ring, using a 1lb dead-blow hammer and added duct seal putty , until it sounded ''dead'' [there is alot more putty on the interior of the door than what you see in the picture.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Bored and stuck in Alaska, I thought I would update my system layout.
For my center channel, I cannot use anything bigger than 5.25'' driver(s) the civic dash limits the width and height of the driver that can be used. Depthwise is another story. If required I can use 2 x 5.25'' drivers in line, firing into the windshield. Comments are welcome.
 
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