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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I was going to do this a long time ago but never got around to it. Since this build started I've actually stopped building and started going in a different direction. However, that build will be forth comming. Time is very limited in my busy lifestyle as well as having two kids, it's hard to do everything at once. But that's for another time.

So here's what I have installed at this time. My thoughts on this install, before we get started was to do a stealth install in the trunk, subs, amps, etc. and still have space to be able to put stuff in there, like my softball bag, golf clubs, stroller, kids bags, etc. I think you get the point.

Not going to go through the head unit install too much. You've seen one h/u install you've seen most. I soldered my wires, and taped them. This was before I learned about heat shrink.

Before (Stock Deck)


After (Pioneer Avic D3)


This is the location I chose to put the Navigation Antenna as well as the Sirius Stellite Radio Antenna. This is the stock location for the Civic Navigation unit. It seems to work great.


On to the sounds. I have Rockford Fosgate Power Series Mids and Highs in the doors and the rear deck. I started off with dynomat on the insides of the doors as well as the outsides of the doors. Here you can see the dynomat and the mids in the stock locations. They were then coverd with dynomat for extra coverage.


There are two sets of tweeters in the front of the car. I started off with the dash set, where I just put an extra set in the stock location. Nothing really to see of those. They have already changed to the sail window locations pictured here.










Then there's the second set, which has gone from here to the doors as well. I've since replaced the trims with new one's and the tweets are under the handles of the doors. They really work well there.



So that's all I had time to do for now. I'll do more later. I'm up for comments. I look forward to hearing what everyone thinks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Ok so moving on with the install.

Next I started on the trunk. As I said before i wanted to try and stay as stealth as possible on this because I have "baggage" that I need space for in the trunk. So a big sub box was out of the question. So I got to thinking. The rear corners of the civic are pretty sizeable, considering the size of the car itself. So I took out the carpet trim and found a pretty decent size cubby. So I figured, why not learn how to fiberglass.

I dynomatted the trunk first. (Well these are after the boxes were made)






Then I did the sub boxes.
Driver Side


Passenger Side




Then I chose to use an mdf face to attach to the fiberglass. I used 5/8" mdf with another piece behind the face to countersink the sub. The theory here was to make it so that the whole thing could be covered with grill cloth and in the end it would look stock and you would not be able to see the subs. Here's the boxes with the subs in them. The subs are Rockford Fosgate P3SD410's. Shallow mounts.

Driver Side


Passenger Side


More to come.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The next order of business was to build some kind of rack to house the crossovers for the components as well as the capacitor. Yes I said capacitor. This, as I said before, was before I learned about different stuff, how useless capacitors are, on this site. That's getting changed too. This was done on the back seat with, again, 2 pieces of 5/8's MDF. Second piece was to raise the face off the seat to run the wires. Here are the pics.

This is the bottom piece against the seat. notice the cutouts for wires etc.


Rear of the face panel with wires in and ready.


Front of the face panel with crossovers ready to be wired up.


Wired up and ready to go. My Cap is charging at this time. That's why it's not in the picture. But you can see where it will go, right in the middle. It's also Rockford Fosgate.


Installed


That's all for now. More later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
To be honest I'm not really sure. At the time I thought more speakers meant better sound. That was before I did some reading on here and research. That's all changing in the near future.
 

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great work! :D

To be honest I'm not really sure. At the time I thought more speakers meant better sound. That was before I did some reading on here and research. That's all changing in the near future.
Whilst most systems have a sinlge pair of tweeters, dont' discount the 2nd pair out altogether. Several tuners play with additional pairs of speakers (drivers) for particular impact on certain areas of sound.
But the aiming, tuning, blending & installation of them (the 2nd pair) is not something for the begginer.
However here is something relatively easy to try...
Unplug one pair of tweeters for now, listen to the system with just one pair. Try and tune (using several of the tuning tutorials here on DIY) some sound out and see how they sound to you. (make a note or three about the sound)
Then diconnect the set you were listening to and reconnect the other pair, and listen to them, with the same music and similar tuning (compare notes).
Lets your ears decide what sounds better to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
great work! :D


Whilst most systems have a sinlge pair of tweeters, dont' discount the 2nd pair out altogether. Several tuners play with additional pairs of speakers (drivers) for particular impact on certain areas of sound.
But the aiming, tuning, blending & installation of them (the 2nd pair) is not something for the begginer.
However here is something relatively easy to try...
Unplug one pair of tweeters for now, listen to the system with just one pair. Try and tune (using several of the tuning tutorials here on DIY) some sound out and see how they sound to you. (make a note or three about the sound)
Then diconnect the set you were listening to and reconnect the other pair, and listen to them, with the same music and similar tuning (compare notes).
Lets your ears decide what sounds better to you.
Yeah I did a lot of that. Before I made the pods i wanted to see how they sounded up there so I just taped them in those positions and moved them around a little and unhooked the others and did some testing. It wasn't by any means a "just throw it in there" project. It makes a huge difference hearing them "on axis" as they are now vs. bouncing the sound off the windshield. However, I want a much cleaner better sound and I'm going to run a 3 way active up front now. So I'll have midbass, midrange, and tweets in the front. I'm excited about getting going on the rebuild.
 

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I really like your sub pods, I've been trying to get my hands on a Sedan for awhile now to make some molds!

Keep up the good work
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So in all this I forgot to add the most important part in the begining. You can't have sound and amps without a good wiring system. That's not exactly what I have, as I've found out, however this is what I did. I've got in here the "Big 3" with 4 gauge wire, and a single run of 4 Gauge to the rear of the car. However, I found out quickly that my little car suffers from this. I've also got an optima battery to run the whole thing. All this will be changed in the near future. I knew I should've did some research before sinking a ton of money into this system. See what happens when you think you're knowledgable about something. You're most of the time not as knowledgable as you think. I know, I know, shut up and post pics!!!

Here is the plain jane stock set up.


Stock battery - That's outta here!


Make room for the new Optima Yellow Top. Also put on Rockford Fosgate Battery toppers to house the multiple lines that are going into each side.


Here are the lines prepped to go in. The blue is obviously the Power, and the silver is the ground. Copper connectors, crimped (again going to change that to soldered) and this was the only thing I thought had to be heat shrinked. I guess nothing else really needs to be, but it look so much neater.


These are the ground connections. Battery to chassis, and chassis to motor. I used the same grounding point. Not sure if that's what I should've done or not but I've had no problems with it.


This is the positive connection to the alternator. This was connected to an inline circuit breaker of 135 amps. I don't exactly remember how I came across this amount of amps, however, I did do research on it and this is what I came up with. I'm happy to hear what people think. You will see, however, I did get lazy and ran out of copper connectors. But I had these connectors laying around so I used them. The problem is that I forgot to heatshrink them, and they're kind of close to the metal of the car. I did adjust them down, but they're resting ontop of the stock split loom and ziptied to that. But for safety sake I should've heat shrinked them for sure. Oops!:surprised:




So that's the Big 3 in my vehicle. More to come later. The amp rack!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So here goes the amp rack that I built. In the first picture you can see the wires run to the rear which, I know, should've been put in the pictures above but it's here instead. Also in this picture you'll see a crossover from one of the components hanging from a zip tie. This was before I build the crossover rack, which I did because I kept hitting the crossover with stuff. I was afraid of knocking it off by throwing something in the trunk. Not very safe, so I changed it. Ok moving on. The amps that I'm running here are Rockford Fosgate amps. I have a P4004 running the mids and highs and the subs are run off of a P5002.



Amps in


Everything is wired up. I decided to run a non fused block for the power and each amp is grounded individually. You can also see in the background that the capacitor is all charged up and installed.


The rest of the amp rack was supposed to have a panel that goes over the top of the entire install and then have a piece on the top that would be removable so that I can tweek and adjust the gains etc. Unfortunately that didn't get done. The 4 channel amp had a problem and I had to send it in to be fixed. RF told me that they may not be able to fix it, and that they would then send me a new one. What they failed to menchion was that the new one they were going to send me was the new model. So the install got haulted by that.

I'll post the rest of the pictures for the install in a little while. That's all for now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So this is the final step of the install that I did. I have two small children and with that comes some long car rides in traffice, to families house, etc. If you have kids you understand the troubles with trying to keep kids entertained for long car rides. Moving on.

So with the AVIC-D3, I have video capabilities. However, with headrests in the faces of the kids, they can't see the screen all that well. So I decided to make the small investment and see what I could do as far as headrest screens for them. This is the actual install.

The tools I used


The Screens. Audiobahn 5.6 inch screens. I got them on ebay for 120 for the pair. Plus they match the seat fabric pretty well.




This is the install. I took the houseing for the headrest screens out of the box and laid them on the headrests to center them. Then I put blue painters tape around that to mark out where the edge of the houseing was at. I cut about a half inch inside the tape so there would be a tight fit and pulled out the foam on the inside until I exposed the bars inside the headrest.











Little hint for those of you who do this on the kitchen table as I did. Clean up your mess. You're wives/girlfriends, or in some cases both, may not be to happy with this sitting on the dinner table.


So this is what you should end up with when you're done. I ran the wires under the seat back and up through a little hole that was used in the factory to pump in the foam. I ziptied the houseing through some holes I drilled in the houseing to the bars in the headrest. It sits very tight. Buttoned everything back up and here is the end result. And my kids love it. Happy riding for sure!!!

 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Here's a picture of the headrests in the car.


So that's pretty much where I got with the first install. I know it's not done but like I said I got haulted. That's why I'm getting ready to redo the entire thing. Here's what I have in store for the new install.

Alpine IVA-W505 - Head Unit w/ Ipod controls
PAC-TR7 – Bypass for video
PAC-SWJACK – Steering wheel interface
Alpine KCA – SC100 - Sirius Interface
Sirius SC-C1 - Sirius Satellite Tuner
Alpine PKG-M780 – Rear 7" Headrest Monitors w/ Brain
Alpine PXA-H701 – Processor
KnuKonceptz eKs-OP5 – Optical cable for PXA-H701 to IVA-W505
Dayton ND20 – Front Tweets
Dayton RS100 – Front 4” Midrange
(Passive Crossover being built for tweets and midrange)
Peerless SLS 830667 – Front 8” Midbass
Hi-Vi B3N – Rear 3” Full Range
Rockford Fosgate P3SD412 – Subwoofers
Rockford Fosgate P1000-1bd – Subwoofer Amplifier
Rockford Fosgate P4004 – Front tweets and midrange / Rear Fullrange
Rockford Fosgate P4004 – Front midbass
Kinetic HC800 – Rear battery
Kinetic HCNBC and HCPBC - Battery Terminals
Optima Yellowtop D51R (9073-167) – Main Battery
Tsunami PP2001-PT – Battery Topper
Powerbastards Fitzall 220 – 220 amp High Output Alternator
Tsunami DB8014 – Negative Distribution Block
Tsunami FDBM-3MANL – Positive Fused Distribution Block
Gepco 61801EZ – RCA Cable
Neutrik NYS352 – RCA Ends
Bosch Relays – Remote, ignition, neons, PAC-TR7
Neons – Blue
Tsunami X15PRBL1 – 1/0 Ga. Power Wire
Tsunami X15GN1 – 1/0 Ga. Ground Wire
Tsunami X15PRBL4 – 4 Ga. Power Wire
Tsunami X15GN4 – 4 Ga. Ground Wire
Tsunami X15PRBL8 – 8 Ga. Power Wire
Tsunami X15GN8 – 8 Ga. Ground Wire
Wire Strip Terminals - For ignition, power, and remote lines
Tsunami SW912Bl-250 – 12 Ga. Speaker Wire 250’ Spool
Carlon conduit ¾” x 25’ – Power run from front battery to rear battery
Tsunami FBW801-ANL – In line fuse holder for power run from front battery to rear.
Fuses – Numerous
Fat Mat Sound Deadener – For rear deck and etc.
Lots of Techflex and heatshrink

So that's a lot of stuff and a lot more work to do to install it all. I'm starting tonight with building the crossovers for the front stage. I'll be sure to take lots of pictures as I go, if I can remember, and keep everyone updated as this progresses. Comments are welcome and encouraged.

Thanks for listening so far. Stay tuned!! :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
*** UPDATE UPDATE !!! ***

:D So I started the Re-install.

Sunday I started by stripping the trunk. I had removed the sub boxes a while ago to get the 12's in and start breaking them in. But now I'm getting anxious to get it all going. I've gotten all my gifts from the UPS and USPS men and I'm ready!

So I got the trunk stripped and started a couple of things. I started building the crossovers for the new front stage. I have one done and the second one half done. I need to find cases for them cause they're not going to be out for show but I want them to be protected when they go in the kick panels.

I started to take some stuff out of boxes and look at depth's and figure out where to place things.

So that's about it for now. I have pics of some things but unfortunately my computer got a virus so I'm down and out at home for now. But it should be back up soon. I'll post pics then.

Till next time!!
 
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