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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
finally got all the components, bits and pieces to do my first real stereo build in my Solara (2 door camry) just fyi heres what the system comprises of after collecting parts here and there over time.
Kenwood Excelon KD3 single DIN Head Unit.
Cliff Designs QX6500 6.5in in doors 100RMS
using CT sounds 2 way XO
with Rockford Fosgate tweet flush mounted in dash
Polk/Momo 6x9's in rear deck 100RMS
JL Audio CP210-W0v3 2 10" subs slot ported box) @ 2ohm 600w RMS
Pioneer GM-D9705 5 channel 2,000 watt Amplifier (100 watts rms x4 and 600 watts rms sub channel)
14 gauge Knu Koncepts speaker wire all around
Knu Koncepts RCA's wrapped in Tesa installer tape loomed
4 gauge Power wire and Ground also Knu Koncepts
Rockford Fosgate fuse Inline by battery
Killmatt &Roadkill 80m butyl sound deadening entire trunk and lid, interior plastics and Door panels & skins
I even wrapped all my wires with braided wire tube and used farrells for all connections and heat shrink on everything.

lets just say i watched a TON of Youtube videos and did a lot of research to build my ideal system because i bought the polk/momos and the cliff designs before i really knew what was what when it comes to upgrading more than just the Bass and HU.

I first just had the JL 10's with a cheap Boss 1100 watt monoblock which was meh, not hitting the spot so to speak. so after literally months of saving up and ordering this and that and waiting for the right XO's to finally come, I took my sweet time hooking it all up and making my own amp rack , tucking the wires as well as i could. wanting to make it as professional as possible. and SOUND professional with a killer 2000 watt Amp!

And after some minor adjustments on the Amp i had a really GREAT sounding system especially when turned up! granted im still new at getting all the adjustments just right.

but after one day of bumpin' my Alternator power wire super heated itself and fried the connection to the point where i had to cut some of the wire back and solder on the piece after dremel wire brushing it as a temporary fix. but theres no power in my music anymore not that i want to even try yet.

My ground for my Amp is well seated in a good spot, 3 screws holding it in place with all the paint ground off covered in di-electric grease

My alternator was Brand new ,like a month old. NOT remanufactured i think its a 100amp or a 120amp im not 100% sure which. Also replaced the battery at the same time.

what do i need to do? beef up my negative battery terminal connection? larger gauge wire on the ground strap? half the stud broke off with the nut when i tried to remove it from the alternator, it completely fried the rubber boot that goes over the top of it.

PLEASE HALP!!!

and thx for ur time! I will go take some pics of everything as it sits right now so u can get a better idea of what im working with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
finally got all the components, bits and pieces to do my first real stereo build in my Solara (2 door camry) just fyi heres what the system comprises of after collecting parts here and there over time.
Kenwood Excelon KD3 single DIN Head Unit.
Cliff Designs QX6500 6.5in in doors 100RMS
using CT sounds 2 way XO
with Rockford Fosgate tweet flush mounted in dash
Polk/Momo 6x9's in rear deck 100RMS
JL Audio CP210-W0v3 2 10" subs slot ported box) @ 2ohm 600w RMS
Pioneer GM-D9705 5 channel 2,000 watt Amplifier (100 watts rms x4 and 600 watts rms sub channel)
14 gauge Knu Koncepts speaker wire all around
Knu Koncepts RCA's wrapped in Tesa installer tape loomed
4 gauge Power wire and Ground also Knu Koncepts
Rockford Fosgate fuse Inline by battery
Killmatt &Roadkill 80m butyl sound deadening entire trunk and lid, interior plastics and Door panels & skins
I even wrapped all my wires with braided wire tube and used farrells for all connections and heat shrink on everything.

lets just say i watched a TON of Youtube videos and did a lot of research to build my ideal system because i bought the polk/momos and the cliff designs before i really knew what was what when it comes to upgrading more than just the Bass and HU.

I first just had the JL 10's with a cheap Boss 1100 watt monoblock which was meh, not hitting the spot so to speak. so after literally months of saving up and ordering this and that and waiting for the right XO's to finally come, I took my sweet time hooking it all up and making my own amp rack , tucking the wires as well as i could. wanting to make it as professional as possible. and SOUND professional with a killer 2000 watt Amp!

And after some minor adjustments on the Amp i had a really GREAT sounding system especially when turned up! granted im still new at getting all the adjustments just right.

but after one day of bumpin' my Alternator power wire super heated itself and fried the connection to the point where i had to cut some of the wire back and solder on the piece after dremel wire brushing it as a temporary fix. but theres no power in my music anymore not that i want to even try yet.

My ground for my Amp is well seated in a good spot, 3 screws holding it in place with all the paint ground off covered in di-electric grease

My alternator was Brand new ,like a month old. NOT remanufactured i think its a 100amp or a 120amp im not 100% sure which. Also replaced the battery at the same time.

what do i need to do? beef up my negative battery terminal connection? larger gauge wire on the ground strap? half the stud broke off with the nut when i tried to remove it from the alternator, it completely fried the rubber boot that goes over the top of it.

PLEASE HALP!!!

and thx for ur time! I will go take some pics of everything as it sits right now so u can get a better idea of what im working with.
I was going to add a capacitor next just as a precaution to protect my electrical components better. But I was not getting any Headlight Dimming, although i was running some accessories ie: Radar detector,cell phone charger, heater, intermittant dome lights.
 

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I wouldn't add a capacitor. The reason a wire gets hot and melts is usually because TOO much current if flowing through the wire for its size. Most factory alternator cables are very small, especially in older import cars.

You should first do a Big 3 upgrade. There are many good youtube videos and guides on it. If you are familiar with knuconceptz and have the ability to finish connections on thick wire I would order some of the high quality 1/0 gauge from them (maybe plan out how much length you need by checking out your car after watching some guides) and use that to do your Big 3 upgrade.

That amp unless you were really banging it should probably not pull enough current to melt your alternator wire unless the stock alternator wire is super thin. Chances are you have a poor connection somewhere else along your circuit. Using a DMM you should check the resistance at different points along your power and ground. This will help you ensure that your connections are proper.
 

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Here's something I didn't know until a few weeks ago...if you use large wire to your amplifier (power and ground), then the ground cable from the battery to chassis should be the same size or larger. I was thinking of running some 1/0 cable in a vehicle, and I read that. So unless I was going to change the chassis ground to 1/0, I wouldn't be gaining any benefit.

So as teh_squirrel said, you might want to check "the big 3". I would think you would have at least a 4 gauge ground to chassis but it's worth checking.
 

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The alternator to battery wire should only need replacing if upgrading to a higher output alternator. The factory will have sized the wire appropriately for the amount of current that the alternator is capable of. When doing the "big 3" most people should leave the alternator to battery wire alone. Most likely the wire wasn't connected properly on both sides and the extra resistance caused the wire to heat up. It's possible that the new alternator made more current than the one it replaced, but I think it's more likely that it wasn't installed properly.
 

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The alternator to battery wire should only need replacing if upgrading to a higher output alternator. The factory will have sized the wire appropriately for the amount of current that the alternator is capable of. When doing the "big 3" most people should leave the alternator to battery wire alone. Most likely the wire wasn't connected properly on both sides and the extra resistance caused the wire to heat up. It's possible that the new alternator made more current than the one it replaced, but I think it's more likely that it wasn't installed properly.
So people should only do the "big 2"? Just wondering because everyone talks about doing all 3.
 

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So people should only do the "big 2"? Just wondering because everyone talks about doing all 3.
Usually, yes. The alternator to battery cable is sized based on what the alternator is capable of, and it's usually (maybe always) fused. It doesn't need to be messed with unless you are increasing the amount of current that can be supplied (adding a higher output alternator). Hell, with today's class D amps, none of the wires need to be upgraded in most cars.
 

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However, considering it is a 2006, the stock wire could need replaced due to degradation and it only showed signs of failure because the owner increased the alternator amp current to max. Something it really never needed to do before.
 

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How did you make out with replacing the wire/Big three upgrade?
I have a 2007 Solara that I am going to be installing a system in, and would like some info.

Thanks, Randy
 
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