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Discussion Starter #1
well, since my complete system plans have changed. including every single peice of equipment. im gonna just start up a new thread and let the old one die. gear i will be useing is listed in my sig. i have everything except the mid-bass drivers. not a whole lot to show yet, but i have got a few hours in.
first off, what to do when your new (used) head-unit doesnt come with a cage. build a better mouse-trap! this set up is way sturdier (sp?) than the stock cage would be anyways! got about 4hrs in it. actually quite time consuming getting everything just right. heres pics:
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turned out tits, if i do say so myself. the flange will screw to my el-cheapo dash kit that looks like ass. it will be a shame to assemble these bitchen custom parts to that cheap dash kit, but thats just whats gonna happen. got way to much other stuff to do to spend any more time on this right now. will re-visit it later after the system is up and running. also forgot last time i used my 10/32 tap i broke it, so i couldnt tap the holes in the side brackets that the flange screws to. will take care of that at work tomorrow. hope to have the deck in the dash tomorrow night.
last weekend i fabbed up the bracket that my main fuse-holder under the hood mounts to. here are a couple pics of that:
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this is a simple part, but for some reason i think its uber cool. :D also, if you look really close in the last pick, just under the little yellow wire under the main wire loom, you can see a grey donut lookin thingy. that is my bulkhead fitting for the 1/0 when i run it. it is actually installed in the block-off plate where the master cylinder for the hyd. clutch would go. which was way cool to just unbolt it and take it to the drill-press to cut the hole, rather than try to cut one in the fire-wall!! so easy it was like cheating. plenty of room under the dash where it is located for routing the 1/0 also. so ram owners take note. very slick. thats it for now. will update as i progress. need to buy a bunch of materials for amp rack, and mounting the 8"s in the doors, and the horns under the dash. so, check my for sale threads, im needing cash!
 

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ill be interested to follow this one. ive done a TON of dodge rams, but they are normally quad cabs. i just finished a box for an 09 and made a mold of the rear seat storage area so i can make boxes without haing to have the truck, thatll be very handy. i love the battery fuse holder, ill have to try one of those, good idea.
keep up the good work!
 

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Fabbed parts look great. Especially the fuse holder. I do hope you get time to go back to your dash kit as make something deserving of such a mounting bracket, but I totally understand how far down the list that lies. Same deal with the Mustang I'm currently working on.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
thanks a bunch for the compliments guys! very motivational. its a lot easier to get out in the garage and get to work when you feel good about it. i actually managed to finish the deck install up tonight like i had hoped. got some more pics:
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here it is all assembled. those 6 phillips head screws hold the bracket to the plastic dash adapter. they effectively take the place of the normal gay-ass tabs on the cage you bend and expect to hold your deck secure (ya right!). this set-up i am happy to say is very rigid.
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this pic is kinda blurry, but you get the idea. tight tolerances. there was some seriously fancy measuring and layout going on to get everything just right.
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and here it is with the face, and fugly beauty? filler? trim? piece snapped on.
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so do any of the other old timers in here remember the days of 3 wire deck installs? this is just rediculous.
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and finally! its in and playing. albiet deck power on stock speakers, but its playing.
 

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Looks great wheelie. I think if you just use some body filler on that and then get it smooth a little rattle can will go a long way. Almost looks as if satin black would match perfectly. If not, I'm sure and SEM version would. Not too much work involved in that to get rid of the metra/scosche look. Keep it up though. I'm looking forward to the speaks.
 

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Hey that deck looks familiar. I had one exactly like it.


Sorry about the cage, I don't know where it could be since I didn't use it in my Jeep install, but hey, it looks like you came up with a much better mount. Looks great.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Hey that deck looks familiar. I had one exactly like it.


Sorry about the cage, I don't know where it could be since I didn't use it in my Jeep install, but hey, it looks like you came up with a much better mount. Looks great.
no problem mang, ive always hated the "cage" design anyways. those tabs are GAY!
so far the deck is cool. only thing i absolutely dont like is the fact that the 2-way or 3-way option is controled by an actual switch located in the bottom of the unit. meaning you have to pull the deck to switch it. not something that will get switched often, but still a major pain. other than that, i think the glide touch is a gimmick. it works o.k., but so do buttons. other than that it is exactly what i needed. now i just need to get used to the navigation so i can put the book away LOL.
 

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Yeah, that glide touch is sort of funky, it works, but like you said, buttons do too. It does take a little while to learn how to navigate through the menus. As you saw, the manual has seen some action, but at least it's there and complete. I think the 2/3way switch is sort of dumb too, but I only set it once and never changed it again.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
well, no real progress today. so i thought i would share a happy little story. you see, 4 or 5 years ago i ran this very ADCOM combination on my front stage in my last real system. but i had to sell my collection when the need for $$$ for something way more important than audio arose. i sold a total of 6 amps. 1 to porshe, 1 to whitesee, and 4 to zuki (yes i remember exactly where they went!) i hated doing it, and thought "crap! there is no way i will ever assemble that combo again!". big regrets ever since. fast forward to about 2 months ago. bing! a nib 4302 pops up on ebay. for giggles i snagged it on a whim. then, within a week another lnib pops up! i thought "no way! be cool to run these bridged on tweets. that used to be so awsome. too bad there is no way i will ever find 2 4402s. they are so hard to come by." then like magic 4 more amps practically fell in my lap! 3 of which are 4402s! so now i have a total of 6 ADCOMs (again!) 3 4302s, and 3 4402s. all 3 4302s are like new. 2 of the 4402s are like new, and the other is pretty hashed up and doesnt work, but its repairable. so here is a pic of the front stage power i would have sworn i would never get to run again. me so happy!
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aint they purdy. now for the real bitchen part. i have a single billet aluminum chassis modeled up in solid works to house all 4 boards and basically turn these 4 amps into one bitchen 4 channel monster! billet aluminum annodized black with a smoked lexan top. internal buss-bars to transfer power, and external RCAs. havnt found a good way to terminate the speaker outputs yet but im still looking. this is a ways off. im sure i will install the amps the way they are now, then start on the single chassis afterwards. but be on the lookout for the most bitchen 4 channel ever!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
okay, starting a new job tomorrow! no more 55hr weeks, and making the same $$$ in 40hrs. saying im stoked would be an understatement. so now that i might actually have some free time on my hands, its time to start building an amp-rack! woo-hoo. so here is what im thinkin:
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this just fits in the width i have available on the rear wall of the cab. with about an inch to spare on either side. and i can tweak it here and there if needed. rack will be fabbed out of steel, and amps will be raised 6-8" off the floor to give access to wiring and gains (will still be a pain though). ADCOMs will be twisted and staggered, with the Ti1000 centered between them, and forward from the cab wall about 5". this will leave an open space behind the Ti on the floor where i can mount my power and ground distrobution blocks so they are out of sight yet still easy to get to. i think it will look cool. but, it will render behind the seats useless other than a place to carry some bitchen amps.
option 2:
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this way, since the 4302s are roughly the same height as the Ti1000 i could mount them straight and flat accross the cab wall all three pretty much level. would look a little cleaner, and take up alot less room. then the 4402s would be under the seats (one on each side). a little more work wiring, have to figure out where to hide the distros. may leave a little function to the space behind the seats. BUT! maybe i dont want people useing the space behind the seats (to set thier purse, or shoes, or groceries, get my drift?) its a truck, it has a bed, use it. thats the way i see it. so what do you guys think?
 

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Wow . . . I am blown away already. Keep up the good work, looking forward to this build.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
finally spent a little more time on the system yesterday! got a new sub amp also. figured i would throw up a couple gut shots of that beast....
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MBQuart QAA2500, built like a tank for sure!
layed out the amps an found that they all fit pretty easily straight accross the back of the cab. so i whipped up this framework:
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then bolted all the amps down. managed to get all the way through all 20 holes without breaking a tap (i hate tapping!)
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then test fit to find the angle and just where i need to weld the framework to the base:
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and thats it for now. it was getting late. in the last 2 pics, the base is a piece of 3/8 plate. thats all i had laying around that was long enough. i was gonna use it, but its way to heavy! gonna try and find a piece of 10ga or something in the next day or two. then i will weld it all up with some angle braces hidden behind the amps. drill and tap the base for the distro blocks, and hopefully get it powder coated. woo-hoo!
 

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Wow! That is truly awesome work. The MB Quart is just a beast.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Aren't you worried about how close that grounded piece of AL is to the pos terminal?
no, why would i be? the battery would have to move over 3/4inch to touch it. besides, see that perfectly grounded brake line 1" behind the positive battery terminal? chrysler seemed to think that they were just fine that far apart. if i hit something hard enough to short the battery to the fuse holder, that short is the least of my worries.
 
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