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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Starting a build in my daily driver truck. I am in this thing 1-2 hours a day so I want to do a good SQ build.

The Truck:




I have a few days this weekend so I am starting the deadening. I plan to use Raamat, Ensolite and MLV in layers.

I have everything pulled out to start installing tomorrow:




There is a lot of Factory damping on the floor.







There is pretty good coverage on the floor as you can tell from the pics. Does that need to come off, or is it sufficient for deadening the floor. Can I just glue the ensolite over to of it?


I'm hoping to get the deadening and power wire done this weekend as this is my work truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Some of the gear I plan to use:

RS315 HO definitely one and two if I can work it
RS225 in Doors
RS100 in Dash
Small format tweeter in A-piller (I have A Peerless I'll use for now)

My end goal is to have a in car PC, and miniDSP processing but I will try to make LOC and miniDSP work for now.

I have an odd collection of amps that will work until I can get a nice matching set.
 

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Starting a build in my daily driver truck. I am in this thing 1-2 hours a day so I want to do a good SQ build.

The Truck:




I have a few days this weekend so I am starting the deadening. I plan to use Raamat, Ensolite and MLV in layers.

I have everything pulled out to start installing tomorrow:




There is a lot of Factory damping on the floor.







There is pretty good coverage on the floor as you can tell from the pics. Does that need to come off, or is it sufficient for deadening the floor. Can I just glue the ensolite over to of it?


I'm hoping to get the deadening and power wire done this weekend as this is my work truck.
I can't see the photos, but as long as the stock material is in good shape, there's no good reason to remove. You don't need much vibration damper on the floor, so the stock material is enough or close to enough in most vehicles. In any case, don't bother putting vibration damper on top of vibration damper.
 

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It would take hours to remove that stuff and you won't get an audible improvement after all of that work. That looks like the hard stuff that also serves to stiffen the panel. The barrier layer is the critical treatment for the floor. That's where you'll get the improvement and that's where you should invest your time and energy IMO.
 

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I have a very similar vehicle also planning on my install in a couple days. Do I need to apply any deadener on the floor? I know it is usually used for flat surfaces but most of the floor is going to be curved or deadened from the factory. I do plan on placing MLV and Ensolite. Maybe I should just concentrate on deadening the back panel...?

My vehicle is a 2011 Tundra Crewmax

Thanks OP, perfect timing and please keep the pics coming of your install...I'm tearing mine apart Monday.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have a very similar vehicle also planning on my install in a couple days. Do I need to apply any deadener on the floor? I know it is usually used for flat surfaces but most of the floor is going to be curved or deadened from the factory. I do plan on placing MLV and Ensolite. Maybe I should just concentrate on deadening the back panel...?

My vehicle is a 2011 Tundra Crewmax

Thanks OP, perfect timing and please keep the pics coming of your install...I'm tearing mine apart Monday.
According to Rudeboy above the factroy deadening on the floor is probably ok.

The interior on mine came out very easy. It only took me 2 hours working on my own to have everything out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Update

I have all the additional CLD in:












Does that look sufficient?

Also, with the Ensolite, do I want to fully adhere it with spray adhesive, or can it simply lay on the floor? I realize I will need to glue it to the walls, but not sure about the floors.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Got most of the CCF installed and then ran out. I have enough to get the front seats back in. Now to get the MLV in Monday.












Sorry for the poor pics. Droid camera goes bad as soon as the sun goes down.
 

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I have an 07 DC as well, I did my install a couple years ago. If you need anything please let me know. I have a million pics of everything.

Looking great so far.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well, I ran out of CCF so I was only able to get the front done. I was able to get the MLV in and carpet, console and seats. I should be able to get the rear carpet section without too much trouble.









I also installed deadener on the drivers door but didn't get pictures of that. I will when the CCF comes in and I can get CCF and MLV on the doors.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
While I wait for the rest of my materials....

I have always wondered how a single driver on the dash would sound. The truck comes stock with a set of these in the dash corners.....





.....so I rigged these up and I really like what I hear.





They are the Tang Band W5-1757SB and as it is still the stock HU, I placed a Cap inline to cut the low bass out. I have these for a pair of tower speakers I am going to build, but even on the stock amplification, they are pretty awesome. So the question is, for simplicity sake should I just ditch the RS100/Tweeter combo and go with a full range on the dash? Any recommendations from people who have used a driver like that on the dash? I know Haakons is another TB driver in his VW, but any other recommendations? I think I can comfortably get a 4" driver up there, and use the existing driver hole for OB venting if necessary.
 

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Good work man, how is the noise level. I'm planing on adding some MLV myself, what are your thoughts?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Actually right now the noise is awful because I don't have the rear done, and the seats are still out, and my tires are loud. But there is definitely less engine noise so that it a plus.
 

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Ok lol! thanks for being honest. Keep it up. Good job.
 

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So the question is, for simplicity sake should I just ditch the RS100/Tweeter combo and go with a full range on the dash? Any recommendations from people who have used a driver like that on the dash? I know Haakons is another TB driver in his VW, but any other recommendations? I think I can comfortably get a 4" driver up there, and use the existing driver hole for OB venting if necessary.
I am using Fountek FR-88EK in the factory dash locations of my Tundra. Not on-axis like you've indicated, but firing up at the windshield. I'm pretty happy with how they sound.
 

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Are you using a tweeter at all?
No, I've been running them from 250Hz up. I have Image Dynamics CX62 midbass in doors from 65-250 Hz, and a pair of 8W3V3's in a CrewMax. These are being powered by XD700/5 with rear factory speakers from HU.
 
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