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Discussion Starter #21
I ordered some connectors for the door panels. 16awg and waterproof.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
My Alpine's have reached my post office. Man, international shipping has been fast.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
For anyone who wants to know, Positive on the Alpine tweeters is the solid black lead, Not the white stripe lead.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
I keep forgetting I have my tweeter pods on my A-Pillars. I put them there to test fit them. Then I put the Alpines in the doors in the factory locations for some reason. If I put they replacement Alpines in the A-pillar pods, I won't have to run more wire through the doors. Plus, I made the pods so they can swivel and tilt... So I can aim them.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Often I find myself sitting here watching pointless TV shows and thinking about stuff. It occurred to me that all of my speakers will need to be measured with a mic individually. Then they will need to be equalized individually, not in pairs like I have them now. I was browsing the web looking at tweeter on/off axis response curves and my brain said... the speakers in the drivers door are going to be off axis by a greater degree than the passenger door. If I am reading the response graphs correctly... the more off axis, the more the high frequencies roll off by how ever many DB's per degrees of axis.

This may explain why the drivers door speakers sound as if they are belly high and mid thigh back on the door and the passenger door speakers sound as if they are near the junction of the A-Pillar and dash. Surprisingly the center image is right above my center A/C vents. I have attached two pics in an attempt to show what my imaging looks like. Green is the center image and red is the stereo image with height. I am assuming when I eq the left side and bring the highs up, it will raise the soundstage... maybe move it forward?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Moving forward with the tweeter install into the A-Pillar pods. They are a tight fit and are being held into the pods with 4 small dabs of Permatex Clear RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant as shown in the pic below. I think they look right at home in my PVC pods painted satin black. I will let the silicone dry for a while. About two hours. Then I will install the new Barbara Ann 4 channel. Start from scratch with the DSP after I set all the gains. I should be done with that crap in like 541 days. :/
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I lied to my boss and took the day off. Working 10 days in a row is for the birds.

I put my Barbara Ann 4 channel back in the car finally and I installed the Alpine tweeters into the car in the pods on the A-pillars.

Before I attached any speaker wires I unhooked the subs speaker wires and I set the gains on the the sub amp and the 4 channel.

For the sub: 600w is the goal and the sub is 2 ohms. 600w x 2ohm is 1,200 and then square rooted for 34.64 volts at the subwoofer speaker outputs on the amp. I adjusted the gain on the sub amp with a -10db 40hz tone and hit dead on 34.64v.

For the midbass (SilverFlute 6.5") I set the amp to 20v with a 400hz -5db tone.
For the mids/tweeters. This is a little different. I am running the DD 2.75" and the Alpine tweeters off the front channels of the Barbara Ann which were set to 17.32v (75w) but since I don't have the US Acoustics Wendy amp yet I am running them as components and I am not using the JL Audio C2 crossovers but instead am using the Kenwood eXcelon crossovers from my 1700P set. I was able to run the tweeter speaker wires as well so literally all I have to do is remove the crossovers and install the last amplifier. These were set @ -5db with a 4Khz tone.

Crossovers right now are:

Sub - Bandpass - 24db - Butterworth and biscuits - 20hz to 90hz
Midbass - Bandpass - 24db Butter and biscuits - 90hz to 1500hz
Mids and tweeters - High Pass - 24db Mrs. Butterworth - 1500hz (eXcelon crossover is ????hz)

This is lacking mid to upper mid oooomph. It sounds thin but the soundstage indeed moved forward and up as intended. Some music sounds great and other music sounds lifeless. Any suggestions on crossover points or anything else?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
WOOOOOOOO!!!! (Rick Flair Style!)

I ate a bunch of food, spent time with my mom, brother and sister then called it a day.

I broke out the iMM-6 mic since I located my calibration file, grabbed the laptop and proceeded to see what I needed to fix. Using Uncorrelated Pink Noise I took measurements at several locations several times from the drivers head area left side to middle to between the headrest so I could get some good averages. I had my plots open as I played some familiar music and set my crossover slopes and set the eq's. I set the crossovers to 12db instead of 24db. I moved each band of the EQ for each type of speaker up 5db to start with... the shapes were the same, just raised 5db each slider. This got the closest sliders right near 0db. I then started the EQ process which took some sliders to a max of 2db. I EQ'd every damn thing. The last pics show the directions I went. I didn't take a final plot shot as I am so pleased with how it sounds and how much louder it is... it's WAY louder but clean all the way to full tilt which now gets painful in just a hair over 11 seconds lol. The IASCA disc sounds awesome!!

That mic and REW... Jesus, it makes it so much easier when you can see the frequencies, where they are too much and where they are lacking and that visual helps you understand what you are hearing. The graphs are the averages of three different measurements. Each pic is the average of 6 readings.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I haven't removed the tweeters from the stock door locations and of those tweeters only the right door isn't blown. But the two in the pods on the A-pillars are just fine! This is my view as I drive all day. I used my wide lens on the LG G5.
 

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Discussion Starter #33 (Edited)
This is the goal right... As an example, I am centered in the car and the speakers are at equal distances from my head. The sound is centered and stereo. As I am sitting in the drivers seat, the sound is offset by the distance I moved. Time alignment will simulate the closest speakers physically near me being moved away and the furthest speakers being moved closer to my new seating position "restoring" the centered stereo image, correct? So I was told to measure the distance of my subwoofer (which is 66" away) then call the subs distance Zero inches. I was then directed to measure my door speakers and subtract that number from the original subs 66" distance and that is what I was to set the distances to in the RF 3Sixty.3, so I did. Couldn't/Shouldn't I just measure the center distance between the door speakers to head level then measure from the drivers seat at head level and just move the speakers out how ever many inches I moved left into the drivers seat? Like the example pics below. Or has RF complicated it?
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This is the goal right... As an example, I am centered in the car and the speakers are at equal distances from my head. The sound is centered and stereo. As I am sitting in the drivers seat, the sound is offset by the distance I moved. Time alignment will simulate the closest speakers physically near me being moved away and the furthest speakers being moved closer to my new seating position "restoring" the centered stereo image, correct? So I was told to measure the distance of my subwoofer (which is 66" away) then call the subs distance Zero inches. I was then directed to measure my door speakers and subtract that number from the original subs 66" distance and that is what I was to set the distances to in the RF 3Sixty.3, so I did. Couldn't/Shouldn't I just measure the center distance between the door speakers to head level then measure from the drivers seat at head level and just move the speakers out how ever many inches I moved left into the drivers seat? Like the example pics below. Or has RF complicated it?
Actually, my understanding is that time alignment just makes it so the sound from each speaker arrives at your ears at the same time - it's purpose is not for "centering" the stereo image - that is what speaker levels are for. For example, in my case, I have to lower the drivers-side dash speaker by 2dB in order to keep the left and right dash speakers at the same level (roughly - EQ'ing allows me to get them to match perfectly - across the entire frequency scale for that speaker).

I'm not familiar with the RF 3Sixty.3 specifically, but with the RF DSR-1 (which is based off of the 3Sixty), you just enter the distance from your head to each of the speakers and it figures out the delays for you. You don't have to "calculate" anything yourself - just measure the distance of each speaker and enter that distance. I would check the manual for the 3Sixty.3 and see what it says about how to enter the distances. You don't want to get that wrong or everything will be off.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I'm not familiar with the RF 3Sixty.3 specifically, but with the RF DSR-1 (which is based off of the 3Sixty), you just enter the distance from your head to each of the speakers and it figures out the delays for you. You don't have to "calculate" anything yourself - just measure the distance of each speaker and enter that distance. I would check the manual for the 3Sixty.3 and see what it says about how to enter the distances. You don't want to get that wrong or everything will be off.
I read the manual... several times in fact. RF's logic confuses me though. They want NO delay on the speaker that is furthest away. Even if the speaker (subwoofer) is set to 0 for its distance in the DSP, there will still be a delay as it is physically the furthest speaker away from the ears. (0.63ms) as a matter of fact for 66 inches. I wonder what would happen if I set the subwoofer at 66 inches instead of zero... would the delay then be over 1 second?
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Discussion Starter #37
I finally got my eXcelon double din head unit installed. I have been testing it out today and testing the Android Auto. Not a bad head unit.


 
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