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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello all,

I I have my current Diamond Hex H600 components in the back and some 4 x 6 shallows up front that I try to tolerate (BLAH!), running on a 4 x 80watt at 4 ohm Profile BAJA HA 1040 . Everythings been ok, but I'm looking to do better.

The amp is not weak, but not good, and is being replaced. Stiffening cap is being added to the supplemental cells in the back. What's really missing though is a sub. I've been running my Diamond Hex 3 ways as a two way system for years now! :surprised: :eek: :laugh:

My car's options are limited atm. I want something in the cabin, and 10" really is the biggest whole I can find to drill into the boot. The crossovers give me two separate "rear audio fill" channels, but I only have space for one Infinite Baffle / IB sub, so DVC is a must -- because I'm just not brave enough to bridge the channels. I'm gonna write "free-air" here because it's a keyword loosely used in a synonymous fashion with ib and I respect our search overloads. The amp I'm getting has a sub channel I might one day use for a sealed/ported sub (which will live in the car ~80% of the time), but for now this will be my only low end (powered by the passive crossovers from the Diamond Hex's). My trunk is huge, 300+ liters.

I've spent a couple days looking, these are the subs I think I have access to that are still on my list:
Sub | Vas(l) | Qts | Fs(Hz) | Sense(db) | Xmax(mm)
IDMAX10V3 D2 | 95 | .377 | 27.4 | 93.2 | 24.6
Orion H2 10.2 | 60 | 0.58 | 37.96 | ??? | 29
Diamond HP10.2 | 20 | .532 | 26 | 82.8 | 17

This is just going on random recommendations, plus the Diamond which I added since I thought it might match my components. The Vas is very different for all! The Orion has a high fs, the IDMAX has a low Qts; I'm not entirely sure what those mean or how they fit alongside the other specs. Which need to be cut, and why? Any other ideas / suggestions? I can get the above for under $300, would like to keep it below that.

Many thanks!
<3 rektide
 

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Hello all,

I I have my current Diamond Hex H600 components in the back and some 4 x 6 shallows up front that I try to tolerate (BLAH!), running on a 4 x 80watt at 4 ohm Profile BAJA HA 1040 . Everythings been ok, but I'm looking to do better.

The amp is not weak, but not good, and is being replaced. Stiffening cap is being added to the supplemental cells in the back. What's really missing though is a sub. I've been running my Diamond Hex 3 ways as a two way system for years now! :surprised: :eek: :laugh:

My car's options are limited atm. I want something in the cabin, and 10" really is the biggest whole I can find to drill into the boot. The crossovers give me two separate "rear audio fill" channels, but I only have space for one Infinite Baffle / IB sub, so DVC is a must -- because I'm just not brave enough to bridge the channels. I'm gonna write "free-air" here because it's a keyword loosely used in a synonymous fashion with ib and I respect our search overloads.

I've spent a couple days looking, these are the subs I think I have access to that are still on my list:
Sub | Vas(l) | Qts | Fs(Hz) | Sense(db) | Xmax(mm)
IDMAX10V3 D2 | 95 | .377 | 27.4 | 93.2 | 24.6
Orion H2 10.2 | 60 | 0.58 | 37.96 | ??? | 29
Diamond HP10.2 | 20 | .532 | 26 | 82.8 | 17

This is just going on random recommendations, plus the Diamond which I added since I thought it might match my components. The Vas is very different for all! My trunk is huge, 300+ liters. The Orion has a high fs, the IDMAX has a low Qts; I'm not entirely sure what those mean, but that's "bad" for IB, no?

Any other ideas / suggestions? I can get the above for under $300, would like to keep it below that.
I'd go with the IDMax over the Orion ANY day of the week. There's no comparison. I've heard plenty of Orion subs and the IDMax wins every time.

In order to determine if it will work well, you'll need to have them modeled for excursion control in free air, or close to it. WinISD Pro does it as well as Unibox. How much power are you planning to give these?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not a ton of power, going to run from the LF side of two 120 watt crossovers. Given that the mount is gonna be a 3/4 MDF sheet screwed into the back of the car, that ought be plenty. If I feel the need for real kick, I'll plug something in a real enclosure into the 800 watt Class-D on the amp and keep it in the trunk.

I see you're selling a reconed IDMax10 V3 D4. :) Well, at least you have some experience with them. :)
 

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Not a ton of power, going to run from the LF side of two 120 watt crossovers. Given that the mount is gonna be a 3/4 MDF sheet screwed into the back of the car, that ought be plenty. If I feel the need for real kick, I'll plug something in a real enclosure into the 800 watt Class-D on the amp and keep it in the trunk.

I see you're selling a reconed IDMax10 V3 D4. :) Well, at least you have some experience with them. :)
Yeah, I can honestly say its one of the best subs that have been made in the last few years. Amazingly accurate, tight, and clean, works amazingly well in a small box (.9 cubes sealed gross), and it delivers the power. I actually don't think I'll be selling it anymore.

I modeled this for you real quick, and it looks like you can give it ~500W and still stay well within xmax till about 25hz.
 
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