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Discussion Starter #1
I currently have a Kenwood 8105d amp powering 2 kenwood subs in a sealed box. 500w rms. Its nice, but I want more.

I just bought a 9105d amp off ebay, literally a few hours ago. Too good of a deal to pass up.. even if it is kenwood. 120$ shipped, and its refurbished.. which IMO is new.

SO I'm now stuck with 2 amps. One is 500W @ 2 ohms, the other 900W @ 2 ohms. I want to stick with 10" subs and I *think* I liked sealed boxes more. I was thinking 4 subs, but I was told over on the caraudio forum to stay away from all the big name brand crappy subs and get 2 higher quality subs that can handle the power and give me better results. Fine.

Heres my problem.. Wouldnt I have to have 2 different subs? One would be getting 900W from one amp, and the other 500W from another amp. How the heck is that gonna work? Thats the other reason I was thinking 4 subs, I can split the power up a bit more evenly. Or at least it sounded more even in my head. ????
 

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Heres my problem.. Wouldnt I have to have 2 different subs? One would be getting 900W from one amp, and the other 500W from another amp. How the heck is that gonna work? Thats the other reason I was thinking 4 subs, I can split the power up a bit more evenly. Or at least it sounded more even in my head. ????
Did anyone give you an advise that all of your subs should be the same, and they should be getting the same signal. Then you're sure that they have the same frequency response and play the same content. Running one sub off 900watt amp and another off 500watt amplifier doesn't make sense to me, unless you prefer one of your subs to play less loud. My advice.. just keep the 900watt amplifier and get rid of the 500watt amplifier. The 900watt amp is 2ohm stable, so you need two 4ohm SVC subs or two 2ohm DVC subs so that they could be wired for a final 2ohm load. If it does the rated power that's a lot. Time to start a thread on "which 2 10 inch subs get loudest on 900watts of power"...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Did anyone give you an advise that all of your subs should be the same, and they should be getting the same signal. Then you're sure that they have the same frequency response and play the same content. Running one sub off 900watt amp and another off 500watt amplifier doesn't make sense to me, unless you prefer one of your subs to play less loud. My advice.. just keep the 900watt amplifier and get rid of the 500watt amplifier. The 900watt amp is 2ohm stable, so you need two 4ohm SVC subs or two 2ohm DVC subs so that they could be wired for a final 2ohm load. If it does the rated power that's a lot. Time to start a thread on "which 2 10 inch subs get loudest on 900watts of power"...
Yes I did get that advice, also was told to sell/trade both amps I got and maybe look for a bigger one so that my subs get equal power. Im going to post them for trade/sale and see what happens. Probably wont get any serious bites even though ones new and the other immaculate condition.

Thanks for the reply. If your still around, lets say I did sell my amps and got 175-200 bucks for em both. What decent amp could I get used around that price range that puts out between 1000-1500W rms? Does that exist?
 

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Thanks for the reply. If your still around, lets say I did sell my amps and got 175-200 bucks for em both. What decent amp could I get used around that price range that puts out between 1000-1500W rms? Does that exist?
I don't know about those with rating above 1000watts RMS because I was never interested in having so much power (the most I'd want is probably 500watts into 4ohms), but Boston GTA-1000m should certainly do its rated 1000watts RMS at 2ohms. There is a very good review of the less powerful model GTA-400m from the same family of amplifiers on pasmag. I would assume, by translation, that GTA-1000m is also very good. I think getting 1500watt RMS out of a cheap amplifier is sort of a crap shot. A lot of them claim this rating at 1ohm, but I wouldn't trust most of them to run stably at 1ohm. Also, at 1ohm the efficiency may go out of window. While 130amp alternator and a quality 4awg power wire may be enough for 1500watt of Class D RMS power, that's based on the assumption that the amplifier has 80% efficiency. That's usually the case for 2ohm and 4ohm loads only. So you would have to look into a little more expensive amplifier. The one that can do 1500watts with 2ohm or 4ohms, loads. But honestly, this sort of power is not necessary for quality recordings. If you need to use so much power on sub bass section of your music, the SQ goes out of window.


Just for a thought.. the fact that GTA-1000m is the Boston Acoustics's highest rated amplifier in terms of maximum RMS wattage should give you a good idea of what Boston Acoustics thinks is sufficient for subwoofer system. BA itself is quite famous for making very good subwoofers for SQ and SQL. Their G5 subwoofer (now discontinued) is among highest rated SQ subs, and right now they build an SPG-555 subwoofer which is meant to be an SPL beast based on what I heard about it. Their other subs also are no sloth.
 

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Why not run something that will do a lot more with the power available? Ported or IB would make much better use of that power. Why limit yourself to a 10". All else being equal a 15 will be more efficient and likely sound better.
 

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Why not run something that will do a lot more with the power available? Ported or IB would make much better use of that power. Why limit yourself to a 10". All else being equal a 15 will be more efficient and likely sound better.
I like the sound of 10s in a sealed box, just want louder. What is IB?

Those daytons look nice. Wonder if I could find some used.
 

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I like the sound of 10s in a sealed box, just want louder. What is IB?

Those daytons look nice. Wonder if I could find some used.
Other things being equal, a 10 inch subwoofer will sound pretty close to a 12 inch subwoofer from the same family of subwoofers. The 12 inch will have slightly better lower end extension and less excursion though. The primary advantage of 10 inch subs seems like they can fit in tighter spaces. The cone area of one 12 inch sub is almost the same as that of 2 10s. If you want to utilize all your power you have, you could throw a single high performance subwoofer such as IDMAX12-D4, which is tried and proven, instead of experiments with arrays of cheap smaller low performance subs. If you like stupid loud bass, Dayton's will not get you there, with their 12mm of xmax, they're strictly SQ subs, and the HO series have very low sensitivity in sealed box. Not everyone likes them. Their main selling point is that they work well in tiny boxes.
 

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I like the sound of 10s in a sealed box, just want louder. What is IB?

Those daytons look nice. Wonder if I could find some used.
There's no such thing as the sound of a 10" in a sealed box. The sound is not determined by the size of the sub. My 15s hit harder and tighter than most 10s. Throw a 15 in the correctly sized box and it will walk all over a 10 in every category.

IB is infinite baffle. No box, your trunk becomes the "enclosure". Leaves you with 90% of your trunk space and efficiency goes waaaay up. It won't get any louder than the same subs in a sealed box but it will require much less power and you usually end up with a flatter response and effortless low end.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
There's no such thing as the sound of a 10" in a sealed box. The sound is not determined by the size of the sub. My 15s hit harder and tighter than most 10s. Throw a 15 in the correctly sized box and it will walk all over a 10 in every category.

IB is infinite baffle. No box, your trunk becomes the "enclosure". Leaves you with 90% of your trunk space and efficiency goes waaaay up. It won't get any louder than the same subs in a sealed box but it will require much less power and you usually end up with a flatter response and effortless low end.
Maybe not, but mine sure seem punchier than my buddies setup who is running the same model Kenwood subs but theyre 12s. Sealed box as well.

So alright I'll consider 12s. Keep in mind the main reason I was looking at the Daytons is because they were recommended twice above. But why not 2 12s?

Im looking for an amp that puts out between 1000-1500W RMS @ 1 or 2 ohms. You mean theres a 12 that can handle that on its own with no worries about it blowing/distortion? I was thinking 2 to help split up the power, 500-750W RMS a piece sounds much easier to handle for a sub.. at least IMO.

Are the 10s that I already have SQ or loud or neither? Theyre kenwood 2513ps.
 

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Maybe not, but mine sure seem punchier than my buddies setup who is running the same model Kenwood subs but theyre 12s. Sealed box as well.

So alright I'll consider 12s. Keep in mind the main reason I was looking at the Daytons is because they were recommended twice above. But why not 2 12s?

Im looking for an amp that puts out between 1000-1500W RMS @ 1 or 2 ohms. You mean theres a 12 that can handle that on its own with no worries about it blowing/distortion? I was thinking 2 to help split up the power, 500-750W RMS a piece sounds much easier to handle for a sub.. at least IMO.

Are the 10s that I already have SQ or loud or neither? Theyre kenwood 2513ps.
If you have the room, bigger is better. Two 10s is better than one 10. One 15 is better than 2 10s. Two 15s is better than one 15. The less excursion required, the less distortion you will encounter. If you want great sound quality, try to get enough cone area so the subs barely have to move. That's the reason I chose a pair of 15s for my SQ system. You can't see them move during normal listening so you know they're very linear and low distortion. A single 10 would do for my normal listening level but it would require a lot of excursion.

Trust me, sub size makes absolutely no difference in how punchy they are. Only the enclosure and sub can determine that. One of my friends that's into car audio always says it sounds like I have a pair of high end 10s on the punchy stuff and a pair of 15s on the really low stuff.

I'm sure there are many 10s that will meet your needs, I just wanted to point out that it might be easier to hit your goal with a larger sub.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If you have the room, bigger is better. Two 10s is better than one 10. One 15 is better than 2 10s. Two 15s is better than one 15. The less excursion required, the less distortion you will encounter. If you want great sound quality, try to get enough cone area so the subs barely have to move. That's the reason I chose a pair of 15s for my SQ system. You can't see them move during normal listening so you know they're very linear and low distortion. A single 10 would do for my normal listening level but it would require a lot of excursion.

Trust me, sub size makes absolutely no difference in how punchy they are. Only the enclosure and sub can determine that. One of my friends that's into car audio always says it sounds like I have a pair of high end 10s on the punchy stuff and a pair of 15s on the really low stuff.

I'm sure there are many 10s that will meet your needs, I just wanted to point out that it might be easier to hit your goal with a larger sub.
Ah OK. I knew there had to be some kind of a downside to sub having massive excursion..

So your saying 15s in a sealed box would sound very similar to 10s in a sealed box? Just as punchy, but the 10s would be moving much more and probably encounter more distortion while the 15s wouldnt and would be hitting lower harder? Just trying to clarify.

Ive personally never heard a 15.. in fact my only experience is with kenwoods 10" & 12" subs.. both in sealed boxes.

Im willing to give up the room. My trunk is so tiny as is that even with the 2 10s and the box I have I lose 75% of it, so who cares if I lose the last little bit. I may even build some kind of amp rack so I have a nice looking setup. I may not.

Im still looking for an amp. As for the subs, Im leaning towards two 12s or two 15s.. and I feel silly just saying that. Sticking with a sealed box!
 

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Here's another wrench to throw into this. Once upon a time I was running kenwood excelon db+ 12" subwoofers off of a 9104d (the predecessor of the amp that you have now) in the hatch of my 92 Camaro. I moved the same set-up into my Taurus (I know, I know) and it pounded much harder. Eventually I upgraded my subs to JL 12w3v3's in a ported box and man did that change things, I was very impressed. Now, a year and a half later, those JL's and that Kenwood amp sit in my girlfriend's car and bump Katy Perry on the regular. Oh, by the way, I spent less than $350 on the set-up as a whole because I bought used.

There are two lessons that I learned from this. Number one, the same set up sounds different in different cars. Don't get caught up in what your buddy has and how it's louder and he's running less watts or smaller subs. There are too many variables to do that.

Secondly and more important I think is what I learned about using what I have. I didn't run out and grab a new amp when I got the w3's, I sought out advice on how to get the most out of the set-up.

My two cents is that you should keep the kenwood amp and sell the other one. I can hear my girlfriend coming in her g6 at least a quarter of a mile away. Get a set of subs that you like (such as the w3's) and either a sealed or ported box. I think that will make you extremely happy.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Here's another wrench to throw into this.
I should've stopped there. :D

I understand what your saying. My buddies setup SHOULD be louder. I have 2 Kenwood 10s, sealed box, 8105d amp. 500W RMS. He has 2 Kenwood 12s, sealed box, 9105d amp. 900W RMS


Honestly at this point I have no idea what Im looking for. Beyond confused. My amp is only 500W and I can only do so much with it. I believe in better subs like your saying but Im pretty sure they would need more power to really make any kind of huge difference. I think I convinced that same friend of mine tonight to get a ported box within the next week or two so Ill play some of the music I listen to in his car and see if I like it or not.

:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:
 
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