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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Right now I'm trying to figure out if I can reuse my box or am going to have to rethink my setup.

I have an approximately 0.9cu ft sealed box. I've tried a couple subs in there but they've never been able to dig real low. Output is good enough but not in the real low frequencies.

Is this just inherent to all 10s in a sealed box or is there some that are decent?

Oh, and the amp is a PDX-V9. Birth sheet said like 540 RMS or something.

If I'm talking crazy just tell me and I'll pick up a 12 or two in and build a box.
 

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Sealed boxes are made for a flatter frequency response over a wider range of frequency's. They also help your box in the lower frequencies as well just not as loud. For example my kappa 100.9w is good for down to 20hz in a sealed box all the way up to 80 and past giving it the flattest frequency response and accuracy. But you sacrifice the loudness at the lower notes in trade for accuracy in a sealed box. Whereas the reccommended ported setup brings the lowest frequency up to 30hz on the crossover point. Losing 10 Hz but making it about 10db louder at the 40-60hz range but steeper rolloff 70-80 and above. So sealed your subs will hit the lowest notes and accurately but not as loud as a ported box with a higher crossover point.
 

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I have an approximately 0.9cu ft sealed box. I've tried a couple subs in there but they've never been able to dig real low. Output is good enough but not in the real low frequencies.
Might try to find a 10" that recommends a .3 box , then it might do OK in a box 3 times bigger.

Otherwise build a 1.5 cu ft box and get a known sub - W7, etc.., :)
 

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What type of vehicle? Cabin gain should be giving you a boost below 90 Hz or so in most vehicles...

Don't overlook the simple things either...is there a high pass crossover somewhere in the signal path?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sealed boxes are made for a flatter frequency response over a wider range of frequency's. They also help your box in the lower frequencies as well just not as loud. For example my kappa 100.9w is good for down to 20hz in a sealed box all the way up to 80 and past giving it the flattest frequency response and accuracy. But you sacrifice the loudness at the lower notes in trade for accuracy in a sealed box. Whereas the reccommended ported setup brings the lowest frequency up to 30hz on the crossover point. Losing 10 Hz but making it about 10db louder at the 40-60hz range but steeper rolloff 70-80 and above. So sealed your subs will hit the lowest notes and accurately but not as loud as a ported box with a higher crossover point.
Ya, that was my basic understanding.

Might try to find a 10" that recommends a .3 box , then it might do OK in a box 3 times bigger.

Otherwise build a 1.5 cu ft box and get a known sub - W7, etc.., :)
LOL. Not exactly what I want to hear.

What type of vehicle? Cabin gain should be giving you a boost below 90 Hz or so in most vehicles...

Don't overlook the simple things either...is there a high pass crossover somewhere in the signal path?
It's in the trunk of an STi sedan. This is the box.

02-04 Subaru WRX/STI Sedan 10 Inch Perfect Fit Enclosure

No issues with the setup other than the sub. It's gone through numerous changes. Originally had a ported 12" that had lots of output but didn't sound all that great to me.

The other thing I'm considering is doing one or two shallow 12s behind the seats. There's a bit of space there that is pretty much unusable anyway. Would just lose the ski pass through which I don't care about.
 

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I could be very wrong, but I would think the orientation of that box might create some issues. When trying to overcome some physical barrier (like the rear seats in a sedan) I've always had better luck rear-firing subwoofers, effectively loading them off of the rear wall of the trunk.

That's just my experience though. I know every vehicle is different.

The JL Stealthbox for the Impreza is similar, but it does appear that it fires more forward and not as high vertically.

Maybe someone with more experience with that particular vehicle can chime in though. I could be making too much of it.

If all else fails though, Oliver's advice isn't a bad idea. Going with a sub that is designed for a smaller enclosure, you should effectively lower its power handling and get greater low-end extension by placing it in that box (that is a bit larger than its "ideal" enclosure).
 

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That new W6v3 seems to want a smaller box, but is less efficient then the W6v2.
 

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lol.. i am in same boat for wifeys ride. so far g5 appears to be best bet.... maybe g3.... those are still around.
 

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You might like this. It only needs .5 cubic feet and takes 500 watts, probably a little more.

SD-2 Series
Good Call ^^^

The SD-2 woofer was born of the need for a woofer as close to the performance of the SA series as possible but with significantly less mounting depth. We started with the same heavily tested and proven cone, surround, and spider assembly of the SA line. From there an all new motor was engineered using half the magnet height of the SA line combined with a solid back plate. The solid back plate allows the SD-2 line to be mounted directly against the enclosure wall eliminating the need for venting space behind the motor assembly -- this reduces effective depth requirement by another inch! The SD-2 line is still able to effectively vent the voice coil through 16 holes drilled around the basket perimeter as well as a vented voice coil former allowing it to handle it's rated 500-watts RMS with ease.

Fs: 39.7 Hz
Re: 8.0 ohms
Qms: 5.45
Qes: 0.56
Qts: 0.52
Cms: 0.09 mm/N
Mms: 178 g
BL: 24.7 NA
Vas: 13.8 L
Sens: 83.5 dB 1w/1m
Le: 4.06 mH
RMS: 500 watts
 

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I had 2 of the TC Sounds Epic 10s in my Corvette. I had an HD 750 on each. They only required .65 cubic feet of air space. They performed very well, but they do need the power to do so. They did great down to 25 hz.

LionelC
 

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1 good quality 10 should be able to reproduce low bass. Will it be loud, too many variables to factor in without knowing more. What is the drivers efficiency and how does it roll off in the box you have. Something like the idq 10, w6v2/3, icon 10, tc sounds epic 10 would probably work fine in that size box (or modified smaller) with the power you have. It is possible that some of the really low end may need some eq. Of course, "loud" is somewhat subjective too. I guess I would say those subs would be "musical" in a sealed enclosure and not an spl monster.
 

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Right now I'm trying to figure out if I can reuse my box or am going to have to rethink my setup.

I have an approximately 0.9cu ft sealed box. I've tried a couple subs in there but they've never been able to dig real low. Output is good enough but not in the real low frequencies.

Is this just inherent to all 10s in a sealed box or is there some that are decent?

Oh, and the amp is a PDX-V9. Birth sheet said like 540 RMS or something.

If I'm talking crazy just tell me and I'll pick up a 12 or two in and build a box.
Cross it really really low. And with a steep slope if possible. I discovered recently that sealed subs can hit low. They just need the right tuning and power. Trust me, I am crossed [email protected] and the deep lows are very noticeable.;)
 

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Right now I'm trying to figure out if I can reuse my box or am going to have to rethink my setup.

I have an approximately 0.9cu ft sealed box. I've tried a couple subs in there but they've never been able to dig real low. Output is good enough but not in the real low frequencies.

Is this just inherent to all 10s in a sealed box or is there some that are decent?
A "typical" 12 inch subwoofer in sealed box has -3dB point (outside a cabin) in the 40-45Hz region. A typical 10 inch sub will have F3 at 50Hz or so. So a 10 will typically have less strong low end. However, it's not entirely clear if this is good or bad, as your car's cabin can affect frequency response in unpredictable ways.. Having said this, a couple of interesting subwoofers to try are Dayton Audio HF10 (4ohm SVC) or Dayton Ultimax 10 (2ohm DVC), I believe their frequency response models more like a 12 in a sealed box.

Actually, in your position, I would have considered an 8 inch subwoofer in a ported box. For example, Alpine R8 can work in a tiny ported box. The typical recipe is 0.55 cu ft box tuned in low 30s. If you don't want to build a box, then consider Alpine SBR, an R8 in a custom built small ported enclosure that's tuned low. It should match the sensitivity of many 10 inch subs (in sealed boxes) while giving you a much better low end.

Ultimately, it may be a good idea to simply buy a head unit with a good equalizer (one of high end Pioneer head units) or an external DSL so your frequency response is not being held hostage by box design used.
 
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