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Got some duraglassing and dancing and bindi work done for the kicks

Two part kicks , the upper boxes are done , there at the shop


So , should I convert it to a 6.5” with a plate
And do the MK1 si woofer or do the focal flax p20se in these ?

The focal would be excellent because I sell focal , and they have 11mm xmax! Or the Mk1 ???

I have someone (thanks theslayking) that will lend me a set of MK1. To test , I would have to purchase the focal set,

What should I do .......






Here is specs on the focal


8" subs in the kicks would be so sick!!!!!


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Discussion Starter #822
The bottom of that kick panel will also be sealed and glassed up. The vent hole leads to upper sealed large chamber, it’s a 4” OD 3.65” ID tube that will be no longer than 4” total leading up to sealed box that is made of MDF and lined with rock wool.

The walls of the kick are now a solid 2” thick of duraglass , I filled it with a gallon of duraglass and I’m going lime it with modeling clay , I figure I’ll make the kick panel pod as small as I can to push any ringing it might have out of band and up in frequency.
 

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Discussion Starter #823
O
8" subs in the kicks would be so sick!!!!!


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okay!!

So one vote for the focal

I’m so afraid a speaker rated as a “subwoofer” will loose fidelity above 90hz and get the nasties. However the focal looks like it might work excellent.

This morning I was all about the MK1 now I’m starting to have a change of heart
 

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Discussion Starter #824
So made a deal on the mk1 .... I’m doin it ....
But wait, I’m also doin the focal , and it will be a show down to see what’s better.

And which ever performs worce in the kicks will simply go in the back doors and be rear fill midbass.

I think 3 sets of midbass is just right. All lower power , and staggered power , the imaging divers get the most power , the fills are just fills , an full the dips and smooth the responce.

In home theater, multiple subs is how you get smooth bass, in a car, multiple midbass is how you get smooth midbass.

Low power is 150w (for me it’s low power) I consider normal power 300w per channel.

With 3 alpine xa70F 160x4 4ch Amps I think I should be able to fill any hole in responce under 250hz

The kicks will be for the deep lows in midbass and into the sub bass some and get the mains to punch and have a punch to them. The doors are IB high power midbass to play 70-250. The rear doors are low power to play midbass to 250 also, as a reinforcement driver at low power.

The top of dash will be the Stevens sa6cs components that will play 250-3000 and Stevens’s tweeter to play 3000 and up

The 3” uptop will be on stupid low power (30w) and be used to steer the imaging on the Stevens that won’t be on axis. The 3” is going to be at such low power it’s just a imaging speaker to blend the axises of the 6.5 to the tweeter. I’ll have to create a custom impulse sort of like beam forming,

I might try the use of HK filters with this arrangement or simply make my own filter that will do what I want.


I’ve also discovered having the speaker on the dash in no baffle (just speaker on dash with no mount at all) actually has some sonic benifits having the rear wave playing into windshield. Stage is deep and wide, vocal not smeared at all. So I might incorporate some of that into the build also.

This is all just dry runs, as soon as the custom is done and start tooning I’ll see what I can actually do. For now , having my testing work almost done it seems to be a hit and better than any previous iteration.

95% of the sound will just be the Stevens components as far as mids and highs go.
All the other speakers are simply fill.
 

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Discussion Starter #825
So made a deal on the mk1 .... I’m doin it ....
But wait, I’m also doin the focal , and it will be a show down to see what’s better.

And which ever performs worce in the kicks will simply go in the back doors and be rear fill midbass.

I think 3 sets of midbass is just right. All lower power , and staggered power , the imaging divers get the most power , the fills are just fills , an full the dips and smooth the responce.

In home theater, multiple subs is how you get smooth bass, in a car, multiple midbass is how you get smooth midbass.

Low power is 150w (for me it’s low power) I consider normal power 300w per channel.

With 3 alpine xa70F 160x4 4ch Amps I think I should be able to fill any hole in responce under 250hz

The kicks will be for the deep lows in midbass and into the sub bass some and get the mains to punch and have a punch to them. The doors are IB high power midbass to play 70-250. The rear doors are low power to play midbass to 250 also, as a reinforcement driver at low power.

The top of dash will be the Stevens sa6cs components that will play 250-3000 and Stevens’s tweeter to play 3000 and up

The 3” uptop will be on stupid low power (30w) and be used to steer the imaging on the Stevens that won’t be on axis. The 3” is going to be at such low power it’s just a imaging speaker to blend the axises of the 6.5 to the tweeter. I’ll have to create a custom impulse sort of like beam forming,

I might try the use of HK filters with this arrangement or simply make my own filter that will do what I want.


I’ve also discovered having the speaker on the dash in no baffle (just speaker on dash with no mount at all) actually has some sonic benifits having the rear wave playing into windshield. Stage is deep and wide, vocal not smeared at all. So I might incorporate some of that into the build also.

This is all just dry runs, as soon as the custom is done and start tooning I’ll see what I can actually do. For now , having my testing work almost done it seems to be a hit and better than any previous iteration.

95% of the sound will just be the Stevens components as far as mids and highs go.
All the other speakers are simply fill.
 

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So correct me if I'm wrong. Your going to have tweeter, 3" and 6" on the dash on each side, 8" in the kicks, something in the front doors on each side and something in the back doors on each side as well as a sub in the rear?


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Discussion Starter #830
So .....

Ran into a snag

Got my pillars 1/2 way mikes up and cut out all pieces

On way home had the Stevens 6.5 resting on dash but had it pointing at a mix of mostly up and sorta pointed at center of car and at me simultaneously,

The imaging was super detailed and up high and deep.

Should I continue to finish my dash or rip it all out and start over and do the firing up and at me thing
 

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Discussion Starter #833
From the driver seat it’s about 80% clear shot to my head

I’m doing a thick piece of acoustic foam on top of the mold and over on top of the 3” (rituculated foam) and it’s barley going to be on. Like so so barley , maybe 10 to 20w at full Blair volume.

It’s going to be used in a special way. I’ll have another 3” for midrange that will be mounted next to tweet.

The 3.5 if my plan doesn’t work right or as good as without will be abandoned and not used at least for SQ listening.

I might redo the whole thing tho and get the 6 to fire up more

Kinda mostly up and crossfired simultaneously that seems to have the best stage placement. But this was will look way cooler (I demo it a lot so looks unfortunately help me make my living) it should still sound just fine, I actually angled the 6s slightly on axis as well.

Ever hold a pair of speakers off axis in front of you, not much sound turn them in just a tiny bit and your in the coverage area. This setup should look a lot like my old apillar build except be designed way better
 

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Discussion Starter #834
This is my old aplillars
They sounded awesome except I needed to angle them in just a tad. I wasn’t quite in the beam at all , picked up mostly combfiltering

This time I duraglassed the 6 in at an angle inside the grill and added the 3.5

I remember when I had my old ones I thought and listened carefully and thought about what I would do differently , so now I’m doing it ,

If firing up didn’t look so dam retarded I would definitely do it. Trying have a happy medium.
 

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Discussion Starter #837
Got some glass work done today.

They starting to come together a tiny bit.

Just got a fresh gallon of duraglass and bondo. Going to do some damping material on and in the IB section and seperate the back chamber from 3.5 to 6” so the backwaves don’t interact with my beamform.

So the 3.5 my plan is to.... do basically in a car , the reflected sound and direct sound combine and sum, if I can do a sum gain beamform with a fir, I should be able to make the off axis and on axis sound more even. Because the reflections cause such a uneven rta responce from just a few inches together. I’m hoping for a much more uniform responce

But ultimately, I wanted the 3.5” location just to have it and play with it

I might do the small mid firing up next to tweet on dash or stick tweet in 3.5” location and not use a 3” at all . I just like having options and different tunes on presets that I can play with .




 

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Discussion Starter #839
Made a 2 gallon milkshake out of duraglass, bondo, fiberglass resin, poured the milkshake on the back of the panel into the crevices and such. The a pillar baffle is 3” thick and has two layers of stinger x damping mat on it. (That shit is thick , twice as thick as dynamat)

Carved the lower vent into the subdash so it’s IB behavior.

Listened on way home with the Stevens components only and sub and dammmm

No tuning nada , and it was bomb. I can’t wait to see how much worce adding the 3.5” is going to make it. I might just leave the 3.5” spot for a future 3” from Stevens , and not do anything with it for now. The Stevens components sound so good just by themselves. I would be crazy to add more. ( you know I’m going to try it) but For reals , the Stevens set of 6.5” plays the 1k to3k range so incredibly good, there’s just no way adding a 3” will make it better.

But it’s fun, I love the way it sounds, getting the drivers slightly angled in was the key compared to the last pillars I ran. Man that makes such a big difference to just get a few degrees, I am only adding about 20deg in but like I said I’m in the beam and it’s just a wave of sound. Such an amazing set.
 
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