[Redliner99]

No gb40. 8G40 it’s a beyma 8” pro audio midbass that’s exceptional like the 2118H

I was thinking I would need an 8 with better self damping because the small kick 1st chamber standingbwaves etc
The 8G40 is doing quite well.

I already have 2 sets on the way. So I’ll have to try them all

Ahhhh ok I see now


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[oabeieo]

As good as g40 is it’s not going to work

I’m heearing the high fs high f3 be a issue

I put the Dayton rs225 on just to try it and it’s thumpin , plays to 65 on passenger side and 75 driver side

 

[oabeieo]

Got the tm65 today

Man what a unusual loudspeaker this is

The cone looks pathetic, but something tells me looks are quite deceiving, that motor looks though as hell. Oh dang it will be interesting

I’m going throw them in on Monday, if there not up to the task (which I’ll be asking a lot from) they will become rears as reinforcement midbass

 

[oabeieo]

Here’s something stupid I did

Only reason I’m sharing is as a warning to not do this

So my Dayton 8” aluminum cone rs255s I’ve had for about 10 years because I love the sound of this , I decided to tape off the basket and put dum dum on the bobbin around phase plug to grind the basket edge with a bench grinder to get it to fit in my kick where it’s recessed

I figured the cast won’t get too hot and to go slow taping it off so the aluminum dust doesn’t get into the gap

So I grinder them down , I didn’t feel much heat at all , somehow the heat went right to the coil and seized the cones! Uugh

Hindsight I’m like “that was sure dumb of me” f ing ruined a good set of 8s

 

[oabeieo]

Just ordered the esotec 8 inch for the kicks

The MK1 will be a door midbass for rears for reinforcement means on that 80hz dip

The mk1 simply didn’t dig deep enough for me but holy crap this thing boogies at 90hz wow! I mean downright gets nasty amount of clean output. What a excellent excellent door speaker. You gain a good 3db with all that xmax in the brute force null filling dips at 80 and 160 for the left side (driver side) and it’s inverse for the passenger side.

Sounds good as a midrange also, just not quite the bass I was trying to get, close very close. Just not quite. I really want the kicks to play to at least 60 with a f3 around 45 to 55 max

I’m seeing an f3 around 65 which is almost there and is satisfying but I want more of a sub and midbass.

In no way am I disappointed with the mk1 , I’m definitely still going to use it! Just use it where it wants to be used the most. In a door.

The esotec mw172 should do the job satisfactory and I’ve had lots of dyns before , I like them , there good speakers. And for this highly damped sound I’m after it’s a excellent Choice, I just wanted to try something different

 

[oabeieo]

....

 

[oabeieo]

Surround fully repaired. Must use small screws apparently or surround glue gets loose. So the stock glue kinda sucks. Upgraded to a siliconeised buytl glue and re glued the surrounds with a much better glue. Made sure the ribbing matched up and no to much excess. No excess glue pushed past the edge but made sure the seal is good.

The mk series drivers should be fooled with a metal or plastic ring to retain the surround by pressure of the mounting screws would eliminate such an issue.

Overall they kick ass. Play midbass like a champ and have exceptional vocal qualities, very sharp lower vocals. The Stevens mb6 also has the same qualities however.

The mb6 could take 320w ch at full boar down to 80 with mild resonances

I’ll play the si for a week and change it to get 170w a coil for 320w. I’m break them in first

My breaking in of drivers is simply getting to know it’s limitations so I don’t over do it. Don’t like the small of hot coils a week into a new set. Just like to go slow at first. The slutty ones will reveal themself. Lol
Kinda like ds18 is the biggest ho online.
Cheap and slutty underneath all the glamour

 

[dgage]

Oh yeah, you’re supposed to use washers on those surrounds. I forgot about that.

 

[oabeieo]

Oh yeah, you’re supposed to use washers on those surrounds. I forgot about that.

I could kinda tell a screw would bite into the rubber, I’ve seen few spkrs like that.

Went on a drive tonight and there starting to warm up a little on me. Definitely has a damped bass sound to the midbass. The 40hz harmonics and bass in the crossover sound warm with the sub. Very nice sounding midbass. I’m starting to get it now

 

[oabeieo]

Look what cat dragged in.

Got the 8s (thanks Porsche they look great)

Now to test the “amazing non resonance” as stated in the dyn brochure for the 72s

I’ve had these before and they do have quite the clean sound. I think they will work excellent.

My last set I blew to kingdom come. They sounded clean at like 130db so I didn’t think they would give up but they did
This time not that mistake , but that was also years ago

 

[oabeieo]

Edit

 

[naiku]

Here's hoping nothing but good things from here on out.

 

[dgage]

Glad to have you back Andy! I always enjoy the amazing things you come up with regarding the 8x12DL and other MiniDSP units.

 

[Jscoyne2]

God damn man.

 

[oabeieo]

Yeah for real I edited that I only wanted you guys to see that neither world knowing my business, but yeah pretty fing gay
and a big giant waste of time

 

[oabeieo]

So....my 3.5s in the dash I did something that worked out very good....

A pseudo crosstalk cancelation channel

I did a seperate Dirac tune for the 3.5s in dash , I had to put all 4 midbass on one set of Dirac channels but that works fine

The 3.5s I set to the same shape as the 6.5s on the dash... but the right one in the matrix I added in the left channel and inverted than attenuated the signal on that until the stage was perfect..... and it did wonders ....I’ll always do it and recommend it

It seems because the left channel is closer both ears especially the right ear gets as much or more energy as the left... sometimes more ... so by adding a little to the right 3.5 as a control speaker to cancel that left channel to right ear just a tiny bit (it’s at -29db) it opens the stage up a lot and the center moved more back..... I love it

 

[oabeieo]

And the 172s sound great as expected, but don’t get super loud... but definitely loud enough for me...the high efficiency 8s sounded better as midbass like the 8g40
But I like the non resonance of the 72s
I just can’t hear them playing.... but they are there if I mute the other channels .... so I like that ... the sound is very (extremely) transparent... which to me just means non resonant ... yeah there dope I like them a lot

 

[oabeieo]

Have had the same Dirac tune with the 8x12dL for about a year
Sold my 8x12dL and now using strictly rephase crossovers and pre Dirac phase alignments per drivers so the rise time is the same across all drivers to my 1st measurement point. Dirac shouldn’t have to incorporate those anomalies into its all pass or very little.

mixed phase correction is honestly ideal and I’m seeing the usefulness of it now....

It would be cool if rephase allowed the use of mixed phase coefficients

 

[oabeieo]

Just ordered a set of speakers I thought I would never use..... I won’t say the name on here , there expensive AF and way over rated ..... I had a set a while ago that I sold to a friend , I’m only doing the 3.5” midrange..... if it’s good enough I’ll make consider doing all of the set..... MmmmmmmmmmmWonder what it is.....

I was playing with a set and the 3.5 has strangely enough an incredible amount of detail and very good SQ.....

They don’t go loud but wow they do sound very good..... so I’ll see how much I like , may do the 8-6-3-1 in my 5 way

 

[fullergoku]

why the tease man?? lol