DiyMobileAudio.com Car Stereo Forum banner

1 - 20 of 29 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
554 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'm trying to only use my PsixDSP in my car to save weight and keep it simple. As it will see National level Autox action.
12" would be the simplest install in a 2019 civic.
Trunk is @15ft3
So I'm looking for 2 12s that would work on 240w @2ohm each.
2 ID12s are on my radar.
Any other recommendations?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,008 Posts
AE SBP12s are some of the top recommended IB subs on DIYMA but they are quite a bit more expensive than the ID12s. IDMAX are also recommended but those are quite a bit heavier, not to mention also more expensive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
742 Posts
IDMAX weights a lottttt. You're going to need some bracing keep it stable. Definitely go with the AE.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
554 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Pretty sure they only make the AE in 4ohm. They would only get 120w each.
And 240w on a Idmax prob not enough either.
Looking for lower watt 2ohm final load 12s.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,638 Posts
The AEs will make the best use of that power. A while back I modeled a whole bunch of subs for IB and the AEs always came out on top as far as sensitivity. I'm running a single IB15AU on 160w continuous and it still needs to be turned down to properly level match the front stage.

And I'll get shot for this but if SQ is the focus - I wouldn't load the amp down to 2ohms... Get two 4ohm SVC subs, run them in series and bridge the amp to them... it's a class d and you'll need as much damping factor as can be had out of the system considering it being a trunk baffle install.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
554 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
The AEs will make the best use of that power. A while back I modeled a whole bunch of subs for IB and the AEs always came out on top as far as sensitivity. I'm running a single IB15AU on 160w continuous and it still needs to be turned down to properly level match the front stage.

And I'll get shot for this but if SQ is the focus - I wouldn't load the amp down to 2ohms... Get two 4ohm SVC subs, run them in series and bridge the amp to them... it's a class d and you'll need as much damping factor as can be had out of the system considering it being a trunk baffle install.
Cant bridge the Psix. So 120w at 4ohm. Thanks for the info. If I can stretch the budget that far, they are top of the list.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
316 Posts
What about a single dual 2 Ohm sub... wire one channel to one coil and the second channel to the other?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
554 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
What about a single dual 2 Ohm sub... wire one channel to one coil and the second channel to the other?
I could do that, but am thinking about cone area. I could do a single 12.
Not that knowledgeable in IB. But thought cone area was king.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
316 Posts
Single 15 an option at all?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,638 Posts
But thought cone area was king.
I see that said a lot too but IME - a single efficient 15 is more than enough for sq and then some - will shake the visors out of their holders, shake the steering wheel in my hands, and jar the entire frame of the car under me with the right music. Likely a singe 12 would suffice. I really don't understand why I see so many install two 15s on 1kw... maybe just that's what others have done or just the mentality of more is better or maybe previous leftover spl/basshead thinking. With cabin gain - sub-bass freq's are the easiest to generate. I just see too much overkill on top of overkill and don't understand the necessity for it... but I was never into spl either so :shrug:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
554 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
A 15" would take a creative baffle. 12s would be just simple flat board. Actually have an ID15 if I go that route.
Not a basshead by any means.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,638 Posts
I think two 12" AE SPB12-4 on 120w continuous each would work well for you then.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,304 Posts
Although the AE SBP is an amazing speaker (I used 2 15's IB in my last car), I don't think you need to spend that much. If you're looking at ID 12's I'm guessing the AE's will be more than you want to spend. Bass is easy to do well, despite what so many people think. People have had great success using very inexpensive Pyle subs IB, you really don't need high end speakers to reproduce bass well. Even then, the ID is a pretty solid subwoofer, I wouldn't hesitate to run a pair of them IB. Before the AE's I ran a pair of IDQ 10's IB, then I added a 3rd IDQ 10, both setups worked really well. You should have no problem getting great bass from a pair of ID12's off of the power you have.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,403 Posts
I used an IDMAX 12 IB for a bit and it was actually quite nice. My mounting location was not ideal, so couldn't fully utilize it... but it did sound so completely natural and blend about as perfect as you could ask for.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
742 Posts
People have had great success using very inexpensive Pyle subs IB, you really don't need high end speakers to reproduce bass well.

I don't think you've ever heard high end subwoofers if you could make this statement.

My listening experience comes from my own vehicle where I would swap out and test subs from friends and my own collection. Each sub had its own characteristics and I could hear a difference in accuracy and SPL.

I'm currently running a Dynaudio Esotar 1200 in a 2 cu ft sealed box and it's the best I've ever heard in my car. I went from testing various IDQ, Focal K2 and JL w7 and w6 subs all in proper boxes. The sub bass coming from the Dynaudio is smooth, accurate and goes really low.


80hz is a null spot not incorrect time alignment

You could produce sub freqs using any cheap subwoofer but accurate and smooth transition doesn't come cheap. You could get SPL for cheap though.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8,304 Posts
I don't think you've ever heard high end subwoofers if you could make this statement.

My listening experience comes from my own vehicle where I would swap out and test subs from friends and my own collection. Each sub had its own characteristics and I could hear a difference in accuracy and SPL.

I'm currently running a Dynaudio Esotar 1200 in a 2 cu ft sealed box and it's the best I've ever heard in my car. I went from testing various IDQ, Focal K2 and JL w7 and w6 subs all in proper boxes. The sub bass coming from the Dynaudio is smooth and accurate.

You could produce sub freqs using any cheap subwoofer but accurate and smooth transition doesn't come cheap. You could get SPL for cheap though.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just explained that I ran a pair of AE SBP15's IB, so yes, I know what good bass is. I also know how easy bass is to replicate, and how much distortion we tolerate (and to a point actually prefer) at low frequencies before we dislike the sound.

You can keep buying high end subs all you want, but the difference between a budget sub and a high end sub is far less than the difference between a budge midrange, and a high end midrange. Again, bass is easy, our hearing isn't very sensitive to sub bass. I'm not claiming that there is no difference, I'm saying that even inexpensive subs can perform very well when used in an enclosure that suits them.

Additionally, our echoic memory is very poor, only a few seconds. Claiming to hear significant differences in a subwoofers performance after spending more than a few seconds switching between them is something I'm not buying. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Echoic_memory
Unless you are switching back and forth immediately and each sub is level matched to the same SPL, I call BS.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,464 Posts
I don't think you've ever heard high end subwoofers if you could make this statement.

My listening experience comes from my own vehicle where I would swap out and test subs from friends and my own collection. Each sub had its own characteristics and I could hear a difference in accuracy and SPL.

I'm currently running a Dynaudio Esotar 1200 in a 2 cu ft sealed box and it's the best I've ever heard in my car. I went from testing various IDQ, Focal K2 and JL w7 and w6 subs all in proper boxes. The sub bass coming from the Dynaudio is smooth and accurate.

You could produce sub freqs using any cheap subwoofer but accurate and smooth transition doesn't come cheap. You could get SPL for cheap though.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just explained that I ran a pair of AE SBP15's IB, so yes, I know what good bass is. I also know how easy bass is to replicate, and how much distortion we tolerate (and to a point actually prefer) at low frequencies before we dislike the sound.

You can keep buying high end subs all you want, but the difference between a budget sub and a high end sub is far less than the difference between a budge midrange, and a high end midrange. Again, bass is easy, our hearing isn't very sensitive to sub bass. I'm not claiming that there is no difference, I'm saying that even inexpensive subs can perform very well when used in an enclosure that suits them.

Additionally, our echoic memory is very poor, only a few seconds. Claiming to hear significant differences in a subwoofers performance after spending more than a few seconds switching between them is something I'm not buying. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Echoic_memory
Unless you are switching back and forth immediately and each sub is level matched to the same SPL, I call BS.
Not that I know any better but some of it could also be the placebo effect. You run a cheaper sub. The buy one that's more expensive and trick yourself into thinking it sounds better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
742 Posts
I just explained that I ran a pair of AE SBP15's IB, so yes, I know what good bass is. I also know how easy bass is to replicate, and how much distortion we tolerate (and to a point actually prefer) at low frequencies before we dislike the sound.



You can keep buying high end subs all you want, but the difference between a budget sub and a high end sub is far less than the difference between a budge midrange, and a high end midrange. Again, bass is easy, our hearing isn't very sensitive to sub bass. I'm not claiming that there is no difference, I'm saying that even inexpensive subs can perform very well when used in an enclosure that suits them.



Additionally, our echoic memory is very poor, only a few seconds. Claiming to hear significant differences in a subwoofers performance after spending more than a few seconds switching between them is something I'm not buying. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Echoic_memory

Unless you are switching back and forth immediately and each sub is level matched to the same SPL, I call BS.


I mix and master music as a hobby. Having a keen ear is a huge part of it. I know when something is revealing. Especially since I mix mainly EDM where it's mostly low end.

You guys are open to your own opinion. I know what I'm hearing. I'll admit this. It's harder to hear when you're going 75mph and all the road noise masks what you're hearing. But I know what I'm hearing and I don't need Wikipedia to tell me otherwise.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 29 Posts
Top