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This might surprise some people, but on a budget (actually less than the IDs on Amazon) I would take a look at the Infinity Kappa 1200W. This is a low inductance subwoofer (not quite as low as AE) with plenty of excursion and it should work quite well in IB. The switchable impedance is also a nice convenience, and I personally like the looks. I was actually going to get a pair for my wife's car until I fell into a deal I couldn't refuse on a couple of 15" Gladen IB subwoofers.

I think the Infinitys are an absolute steal at the current $107 price point on Amazon. Will the IB12AU and IB12SBP be better subwoofers? Likely. Worth spending 6-10+ times the money? That is a personal decision.
 

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Not that I know any better but some of it could also be the placebo effect. You run a cheaper sub. The buy one that's more expensive and trick yourself into thinking it sounds better.


I really wish I could get this type of sound with $300.

I just wanted to try out the Esotar to hear the hype. Bought one to try in a 2 cu ft box and ended up loving it so much I shelled out for another one so I could run them in IB.

I would've been more than happy to keep my dual IDQ10 if it was as good. Who wouldn't wanna save money? The IDQ are good. Just not as accurate and smooth in delivery. It is one tight subwoofer though but I noticed it doesn't blend from one sub note to another as well.

The Esotar subs are in a different league. I was part of the subs don't matter club but everyone knows as you slowly get deep into this hobby and you listen to more setups you start to develop a sense of what sounds good and what doesn't.

I also use headphones with Sonarworks Reference 4 along with Waves NX vsts to listen to reference music. With headphones you don't have a bad room to ruin bass response.

The surround on the Esotar is really soft compared to most the other subs I listed above, not sure if that has anything to do with the amount of control it has. I'm not going to pretend I know how to make a good subwoofer. Just stating something I noticed.


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I really wish I could get this type of sound with $300.

I just wanted to try out the Esotar to hear the hype. Bought one to try in a 2 cu ft box and ended up loving it so much I shelled out for another one so I could run them in IB.

I would've been more than happy to keep my dual IDQ10 if it was as good. Who wouldn't wanna save money? The IDQ are good. Just not as accurate and smooth in delivery. It is one tight subwoofer though but I noticed it doesn't blend from one sub note to another as well.

The Esotar subs are in a different league. I was part of the subs don't matter club but everyone knows as you slowly get deep into this hobby and you listen to more setups you start to develop a sense of what sounds good and what doesn't.

I also use headphones with Sonarworks Reference 4 along with Waves NX vsts to listen to reference music. With headphones you don't have a bad room to ruin bass response.

The surround on the Esotar is really soft compared to most the other subs I listed above, not sure if that has anything to do with the amount of control it has. I'm not going to pretend I know how to make a good subwoofer. Just stating something I noticed.


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I have no doubt there is huge differences in the ID and esostar. I'm saying in general

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I don't think you've ever heard high end subwoofers if you could make this statement.

My listening experience comes from my own vehicle where I would swap out and test subs from friends and my own collection. Each sub had its own characteristics and I could hear a difference in accuracy and SPL.

I'm currently running a Dynaudio Esotar 1200 in a 2 cu ft sealed box and it's the best I've ever heard in my car. I went from testing various IDQ, Focal K2 and JL w7 and w6 subs all in proper boxes. The sub bass coming from the Dynaudio is smooth, accurate and goes really low.


80hz is a null spot not incorrect time alignment

You could produce sub freqs using any cheap subwoofer but accurate and smooth transition doesn't come cheap. You could get SPL for cheap though.




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Wait, you are actually bragging on that FR graph?
 

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Wait, you are actually bragging on that FR graph?

I said it plays low and smooth then offer proof and now I'm bragging? Im just posting honest findings from what I've experienced and now I have to wear a flame suit.

Should've just posted one sentence useless replies like some of you trolls...

Ok time to unsubscribe from this thread.


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I said it plays low and smooth then offer proof and now I'm bragging? Im just posting honest findings from what I've experienced and now I have to wear a flame suit.

Should've just posted one sentence useless replies like some of you trolls...

Ok time to unsubscribe from this thread.


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I would like to try a dynaudio 10 but after all the money I've spent already I dont want the 800 dollar price tage

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An often overlooked sub is the ID CTX subs. You could stick with ID but go with the CTX 124 (4 ohm) or 128 (8 ohm). I've used them in IB in several convertibles! They were awesome and cheap! In my case, I needed a 4ohm load so I did two of the 8ohm (ctx128)

On Amazon: CTX124 - Image Dynamics 12" 4-Ohm Subwoofer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Y0VP06/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_aCIkDbR54CEQX

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