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If what you say is true then I wont upgrade my 10w6v2. I have it in a .75cu ft. sealed box and the bass is very upfront but not as low as some other subs Ive owned.
 

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oldloder said:
Can you detect the location of the sub running it that high?
On some tracks yes, but not all that much... It's more like the sub is everywhere instead of like it's just in the back, On other tracks it's sounds like it's completely up front. This is with the sub low passed at 100hz 24/oct and little bit of time alignment.

Also worth of mention is that I'm running only 4" mids upfront...
 

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andthelam said:
If what you say is true then I wont upgrade my 10w6v2. I have it in a .75cu ft. sealed box and the bass is very upfront but not as low as some other subs Ive owned.
Using RTA, there seems to be pretty much nothing below 40hz. i have it in a 0.75cu ft box too.
 

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that is tremendously odd to me. What is supposed to be a subwoofer is more like an overgrown dedicated mono midbass?
 

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300Z said:
Having heard quite a few super subs I would most likely take a JBL WGTi over pretty much anything else on the car audio market. Altho I should mention that from the systems that I have heard over this past year my favorite midbass/subbass setup uses Peerless XLS 8 midbasses and a single Diamond Audio D6. Just so effortless and accurate. Honestly that setup is one of the very best sounding subbasses that I have heard in my life... and I have heard quite a few... ;)

If you're not happy with the new W6 I would give the JBL WGTi a try.

Cheers

Leo
.


can you compare the new gti to the old version?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Any sub will go lower in a bigger box. U can make simulations and play with the volume until u get the QTC u want. Weird what u've seen with your RTA. For me it was flat until 20Hz and when i applied a HPF at 16Hz i felt a very small diference. I don't know what to say. The 12W7 had much more authority down low but if the W6 is flat until 20Hz how low can W7 go and still be felt by the human ear ? I forgot to measure the W7 too :(
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Hmm, Amator, after what you said, I've measured the box and it seems the boys made it bigger than Jl recommended. It seems it has 1cuft instead of 0.625 (recommended) and i guess that's why it stays flat until 20Hz. What's interesting, is that it doesn't loose precision also compared with the midbass and blends very well !
 

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fuscobal said:
Hmm, Amator, after what you said, I've measured the box and it seems the boys made it bigger than Jl recommended. It seems it has 1cuft instead of 0.625 (recommended) and i guess that's why it stays flat until 20Hz. What's interesting, is that it doesn't loose precision also compared with the midbass and blends very well !
It looks like i shld redo till 1 cu feet then :) Though It blends totally with the midbass now and appears totally upfront. There is however NO low end authority or 'bloom"
 

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amator said:
It looks like i shld redo till 1 cu feet then :) Though It blends totally with the midbass now and appears totally upfront. There is however NO low end authority or 'bloom"
Right now, my initial impressions after a month of ownership is that amator is right...

I believe my box is around .7 cubic feet....hard to measure since it's fiberglass behind a wrapped quarter panel in the back of the car.

The only thing I can do is stuff with polyfill....
 

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Fellippe said:
Right now, my initial impressions after a month of ownership is that amator is right...

I believe my box is around .7 cubic feet....hard to measure since it's fiberglass behind a wrapped quarter panel in the back of the car.

The only thing I can do is stuff with polyfill....
Im also gonna stuff mine with polyfill, last resort will be slightly bigger to 1 Cu foot.
I tried to play a bit of bass boost and Q ard 20-25hz using my Jl 500/1 but havent concluded whether its natural sounding enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Hmm, don't know if a boost at 20Hz won't stress that 10" driver too much. I don't think a boost will be able to replace the smaller cone area of a 12 or 15" driver. I did play with the boost on someone else's 10" driver and i felt the driver was stressed and unnatural sounding !
 

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None of these problems are present in ANY sub from Image Dynamics. Is it worth messing around with subs that don't have bottom end? If they don't all they are is a midbass driver. :p
 

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i own a 10w6v2 as well, in the box size recommended by JL Audio <0.7cuft3. i feel there's not much kick to it (compared to, say a 12" XLS) and its very subtle and blends very well with the mids.

what can be done?
 

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what i meant to say is that..it doesn't feel like it goes low enough..
It's interesting, just a few posts above I'm knocking it for the same reason you are...

Now, I feel like going low enough isn't really the priority anymore but midbass integration. I feel the sub could some some EQing in the lower octaves to smoothen out the sound when I really crank them.

As for low end response, increasing amplifier power and/or increasing enclosure size would be my best bet...I've done the former and it's helped a lot. You could try polyfill if you can't rebuild your enclosure.

In an ideal world, multiple subs in big enclosures would solve all of the problems we run into.

:)
 
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