[Dave88LX]

I picked up this '15 Fiesta sedan as a work commute beater (140 miles/day).
Everything is factory. Doors have factory component woofer & tweeter separates.
I'm not looking for anything crazy or dealing with custom enclosures, and there's no Q-Logic kick panels for this application.

I'm using Crutchfield to search, it should take the guesswork of figuring out the depth/protrusion of the speakers.
I'm familiar with both Focal and JL producing good products. These would be the top two choices on that site, but curious if any one has any experience with either one.
If not, wondering if there's any preference towards one or the other, and for what specific reason?

Focal Inside IS FORD 165
$380

Focal Inside IS FORD 165

6-1/2" component speaker system for select Ford and Lincoln vehicles

www.crutchfield.com

JL Audio C2650
$330

JL Audio C2650

Evolution™ C2 Series 6-1/2" component speaker system

www.crutchfield.com

I have an amp from a previous project that I never used that I could use for this.
JBL GTO1004

GTO1004 | Full-range amplifier for your car audio system

The JBL® GTO1004 is a 600-watt, four-channel, full-range amplifier with bass boost, a variable 12 dB-per-octave electronic crossover, an aluminium heatsink and a wide 10 Hz to 100 kHz frequency response. Its full-range preamp outputs allow multiple hookups without high-loss Y-adapters or signal...

kh.jbl.com

I could run the components with the included passive crossover, or, go 4-ways off the amp. Not sure yet if the door carries 2 pairs of wires through, or if it splits once inside the door. I haven't taken it apart yet. Anyone know?

A lot of people don't run rear speakers, so I could leave those unplugged, or upgrade those and run off head unit for rear fill.

I will be adding a sub (TBD) later.

 

[Dave88LX]

Do you have the "big" screen with sync ? I can get you diagrams.

Sent from my Pixel 6 using Tapatalk

I do not, I just have the standard radio with SYNC (to be replaced at a future date).

 

[Dave88LX]

Magic 8-Ball says: Go For it

Yeah, I gotta figure out which one! Haha.

 

[Dave88LX]

Doors mot likely run the tweeter via a capacitor.
It is usually possible to find a pair of unused holes in the body to door Molex connector.
My method is to drill through and pass the speaker cable through. Or you can terminate the leads into each half.

Ah true that is a good point too about the cap.
I've always only used factory wiring into the doors, never pulled my own in.
What are you drilling through...the door? To pass your own in?