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Discussion Starter #121 (Edited)
More progress. Not a whole lot, but this stuff just takes a lot of time trying to do it "right" and whether that's actually happening or not is yet to be seen. 🤣 However, I am realizing there is a fine line between trying to take my time, getting it right and risk being killed by my wife for spending all my time in my car and "getting'r done". In any event, I will post the limited pics I took to show I haven't been sitting inside all day playing World of Warcraft or something.

All the Audiofrogs on the passenger side are wired up and ready to be connected to the P Six. A little bit of soldering and heat shrinking. I realized I am not a big fan of using ferrules for speaker connections. They get torn apart to easily and get stuck inside the terminal (ask me how I know). I had to do some surgery today, so I wound up just stripping and tinning the wires and pushed them into the terminals instead.

I used "MTuna's" 3D printed GB60 adapters and they're working out great. I am going to use NVX's speaker rings. You can see their foam base inside the door. I wound up mounting the 3D printed speaker adapters with stainless hex bolts, washers and nuts from the backside for a more secure mount. I also put some CCF under the adapter and used adhesive-backed speaker gasket foam on the back of the adapter for a double seal. I also used the speaker gasket foam on the front side of the adapter where the GB60 sits for a good seal there too.

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I also removed the OE HU, attached my "sacrificial harness", started running speaker wire to the driver's side, and also my 9-wire. I am using plenty of extra wire so there's a lot of slack in the lines just in case I every decide to move drivers (sail panel pods) or I end up ripping this system out to use in another car.

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There are a few posts about how finicky the Audio Frog tweeter connectors are, and i can attest to that. But the build is coming along really nicely. I hear you about the wife and taking time man, thankfully mines been very understanding and since she works from home and is working on her master's it works out.


The time you're taking to make it right will definitely pay off. Very detailed and well thought out. Those speaker mounts look amazing, thanks Mtuna!

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Discussion Starter #123
I've been swamped with work lately and the hot weather has slowed me down a bit, but just a few updates.

I got my sub enclosure today from Wicked Audio. Looks great! I had them make it with no rear terminal cup so I will just drill a hole and run my own wire. I plan on using XT60's on the sub line anyway so I can easily remove it. This thing is built like a brick $hit-house! I was about to go out today and work some more, but I needed to mow the lawn before it rained.

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I used some Solder Seal connectors on my sacrificial OE wiring adapter to connect my speedwire.

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I ran the 1/0 from the battery to the distro block under the driver's seat.

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I finished the driver's side wiring for the Audiofrog components and got the driver's side GB60 in the door.

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I picked a location for the fuse block (right side of fender sill up under the black trim). I felt like I need to use this hole to fasten it somehow and I needed another excuse for a 3D printed part, so off to the drawing boards I went. So far I have come up with this design. I will need to add a few more features to it. I plan on getting this printed out of ABS again, probably about 1/4" thick. I am going to use a plastic rivet to mount it to the hole with a bit of double stick tape to keep it stable.
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That is all for now.
 

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Heck yesssss.....I love this build and how you're simply "making" parts yourself. Yes, I understand that you're borrowing and sharing the files for the printed parts but that makes this even better! Reads like this make me proud to be back in car audio now.
That Pico made me look it up and OMG! The 8 channel dsp amplifier is the same size as the Pico 1! Yeah, it retails for $1600 but so? As long as you realize what you are getting for that price, it's a value in my opinion! It even has "center channel management"!
You could have an 8.1(ish) system, with a full blown DSP, ready to compete and hidden......IN YOUR FRIGGIN GLOVEBOX!
LOL
 

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Discussion Starter #125 (Edited)
Heck yesssss.....I love this build and how you're simply "making" parts yourself. Yes, I understand that you're borrowing and sharing the files for the printed parts but that makes this even better! Reads like this make me proud to be back in car audio now.
That Pico made me look it up and OMG! The 8 channel dsp amplifier is the same size as the Pico 1! Yeah, it retails for $1600 but so? As long as you realize what you are getting for that price, it's a value in my opinion! It even has "center channel management"!
You could have an 8.1(ish) system, with a full blown DSP, ready to compete and hidden......IN YOUR FRIGGIN GLOVEBOX!
LOL
Thanks for the kind words.

3D printing has opened up a lot more options for the car audio world.

Yes, the Pico 1 is quite amazing. 750 watts and I can fit the damn thing in my hand. The only other amp I've seen with this type of footprint is the new RF's. I only paid about $375 for this thing shipped from Germany. I'd be willing to bet that DSP you're talking about can be purchased much cheaper online from an overseas vendor.

Here is my final design for the fuse block mount.

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I hope to get some good work in this weekend. I will try to at least get the front stage up and running then I'll work on the trunk back in order and the sub enclosure in place. I've got an extra sheet of sound deadener I need figure out where I want to put. Don't want it to go to waste!
 

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Discussion Starter #126
Taking a break for the day. I may go back out, but I got quite a bit done today and this is how it sits right now.

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Driver's side amp is done. Main power line is ready to be hooked up to the battery as soon as I get my fuse block mount from the 3D printer.

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Found a great place for my ground and got a nice set of beafy terminals from Stinger.
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This bolt that holds the E-brake bracket on was reading .003 on my ohmmeter, so I think it'll do fine. I used a little dielectric grease on it because it pretty much goes to the outside of the car when you screw it in.

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On to the other side, I started to make the final connections to the Helix P Six. Lots of extra speaker wire that I chose to just hide and not cut just in case I decide to pull this all out one day and reuse it.

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I also ran my control wire for the URC.3 and the optical line I'll be using for my Fiio X7. I have to figure out how I'm going to hook up the Helix Wifi controller. It needs +12v and ground (the orange and brown wires), so I have to figure out where I'm going to get that from. Not sure if I want to run two separate wires to it or tap off the amp.
 

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2016 WRX (FA20DIT)
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As I have finally started my install I have had a bit of a run through the WRX build logs on here to get a bit of inspiration and some enthusiasm. Catching up on your build I will say with no offence that I am not a fan of underseat installs at all; but your near OCD level of set out, installation, and just general skills are pretty phenomenal to see mate. I think a lot of times underseat installs wind up running out of room and look cramped for space; but your install looks like you have room to burn. That's a testament to fastidious planning...exceptional skills man (y)
 

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Discussion Starter #130
As I have finally started my install I have had a bit of a run through the WRX build logs on here to get a bit of inspiration and some enthusiasm. Catching up on your build I will say with no offence that I am not a fan of underseat installs at all; but your near OCD level of set out, installation, and just general skills are pretty phenomenal to see mate. I think a lot of times underseat installs wind up running out of room and look cramped for space; but your install looks like you have room to burn. That's a testament to fastidious planning...exceptional skills man (y)
Thanks! Yeah I would say that it would have definitely been easier to do an amp rack in the trunk in the spare tire well, but for some reason I was set on using under seat space. I thought about using the trunk, but I know I would have regretted that the minute I needed to pull the tire for a flat. How many times have I had to do that in my life? Probably once, but I know it'd have happened again if I had a bunch of audio equipment laying on top of the tire. Under seat space is quite large in this car, especially considering the small footprint of a lot of today's amps/DSP's. I am glad I changed courses early on by dumping the ARC 1200.6 / 1100.1 and DSP.3 setup and going with the P Six and the Pico. It saved me space and made the install simpler.

One of my concerns was having "little feet" get under the front seats and stepping on things they shouldn't be stepping on. I wanted the amps input/outputs facing East/West. In the event feet get up under the seat, the only thing they can kick on the passenger side is the heat-sink of the P Six (which is built like a tank). The Pico is so small that I highly doubt anyone is going to get their feet far enough underneath there to get near it.

Don't let my wife see your "near OCD" comment. I get accused of being OCD by her all the time. It's probably what is taking me so long to finish this project, but I will admit there are a few things that didn't come out exactly the way I wanted. Fortunately, it's little stuff that hopefully won't have anything to do with the SQ.

My goal of keeping this thing relatively unmolested has been accomplished. I haven't drilled one hole in metal since I started this. Aside from cutting out some plastic in the dash speaker area to add the GB10's (I can still drop the factory midranges back in), I've used everything I've could that was already there. Of course I'm not really counting the sound deadening, but I can literally drop the OE speakers back into the car, plug them in, pull the OE HU harness extension out and the car is back to stock. If the SQ is not what I want it to be after tuning, I purposely ran extra speaker wire to do A-pillars or sail pods.

I think I am going to power the WiFi controller off one of two REM outputs of the P Six. I imagine this will work fine. REM output is 12v, correct? The other one is being used to turn the Pico 1 on.
 

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Discussion Starter #132 (Edited)
More progress, but I only got to work on it a few hours. I will definitely be putting some hours into this week and hope to at least fire it up to see if everything is working.

So the P Six is done and ready to go. The WiFi controller is installed. I tried to contain my OCDness and limit myself to mounting it with 3M tape to the top of the Helix. Not fancy, but I had to justify spending time on some sort of mount to send to a 3D printer again, which just wasn't worth it. I had an idea in my head, but decided to go with this. I still have to attach the Bluetooth antenna on the right hand side.

Didn't want this coming loose under the carpet.

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Done deal.

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The ground wire for the WiFi controller has a ferrule on the end of it and I just sandwiched it underneath that factory ground bolt. The power wire goes to the second remote turn on output of the Helix. Hopefully that works.

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I started putting interior panels back in place using Tesa Tape everywhere I could to reduce rattles and put the OE HU assembly, A/C vents and the glove compartment back in. It's starting to look like a car again. Seats will go in last after I give a good vacuuming.

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I did some work on the passenger side door card. Took apart the switch assemblies and wrapped them with Tesa. They are quite loose from factory and I could see them being a source of rattles.

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I also found my battery terminal mounting solution, but I forgot to take a pic of it. Tomorrow my fuse block mount is supposed to come in the mail, so I'll get that installed sometime this weekend and she'll be ready to get fired up.
 

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Drooling at the attention to detail man. Looking amazing! I never thought about the switches themselves being a source for noises, I'll be sure to address that when I go to put in the speaker adapters, got to get one printed still, LOL. Damn those ground lugs are sweet! Makes me wanna re do my ground . Might just change it anyways as i noticed the 0ga wire i recently got looks to be CCA "no bueno".

Looking forward to your continued detail oriented progress man! Cheers

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I like the fact these cars are still out together in the older way of doing things. Many parts on modern cars are "one time use". At least this car can be taken apart she put back together really in easily and with plenty of room. I'll give you an example on the newer fusions to remove the rear tray you are supposed to remove the 2 "C" pillar panels, guess what they are "remove and discard"in the workshop manual. You can imagine how expensive that would get and quickly!. They may rattle a bit here and there but i love working on them.

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Discussion Starter #136
Look what came in the mail today!

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Can't wait to get it in tomorrow.

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I know it may be hard to picture where this is going to go, but I'll take more pics once it's installed. I plan on mounting this using an existing hole in the body up underneath the cover on the driver's side of the engine bay. I'll be using one bolt and most likely a bit of 3M tape underneath it for some padding.
 

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Discussion Starter #137
More pics.

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This will be held in place with one plastic pin and a piece of 3M tape.

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I have to get some stainless screws to attach this to the above mount tomorrow when the hardware store opens up.

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My solution to hooking up to the positive battery terminal.

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Modded terminal cover.

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I'm almost there. Tomorrow I'll be wrapping up the trunk, which basically consists of putting trim panels back in and installing the sub enclosure and I'll be ready to power it up!
 

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I did my power wire at the same location but your lug with the heat shrink and tech flex is the detail mine is missing. Good to know that lug fits there as well. I had to re profile my ring terminal to fit

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Discussion Starter #139
Oh and I decided to not use my NVX speaker rings. They weren't big enough to fit around my GB60's and I wasn't going to stick them to the surrounds. I did however use the NVX egg crate foam base on the outer door panels. Instead I used these Stinger rings. They ended up fitting perfectly.


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Discussion Starter #140
It's alive!!!! But first... pics from today.

Fuse block mounted on it's 3D printed plate:


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I would have rather had the power wire go down the passenger side of the battery and hidded more, but it is what it is. It's definitely mounted securely to the top bolt.

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On to the trunk for some finishing touches. I put some CCF under the trim that is located right behind the rear seats. It tends to be loose and rattle. It's nice an snug now.

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I finished off the sub line with an XT60 connector so I can disconnect it a little bit easier. I would still need to pull the sub to take the box out because it is mounted to a bolt coming off the side panel. You can see that 1/4-20 x 1-1/4" bolt in the next pic just about and to the right of where my sub line is zip tied. It goes through a hole I drilled in the enclosure and then gets secured with a washer/nut inside. I used stainless hardware just in case.

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10" of Audiofrog goodness ready to be installed! So, I've been miscalculating my ohms this whole time due to my misunderstanding of Audiofrog's installation instructions. I had thought I was going to end up with 2-ohms load on the Pico with 750w. Looks like I'll be at 4-ohm and 500w instead. I am a little disappointed, but I guess I should have tracked down a GB10D4 instead of the D2. My only choices are 1-ohms and 4-ohms (switchable) and the Pico is not 1-ohms stable. I am not about to blow up my Italian amp... thanks, so 4-ohms it is. If I'm not happy with 500w, I'll try to pick up a D4 and unload my D2, but initial impressions of the system with no tuning tell me otherwise. It hits pretty hard as is and I guess it'll keep my Pico cooler that way.

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I had a hell of a time mounting the sub. I ordered some Hurricane Nuts and 10-32 machine screws from PartsExpress, but I was impatient and bought some beefy wood screws today from Ace Hardware. To my dismay, they were some real crappy screws. Two of them snapped off while I was screwing them in. 🤬 I even pre-drilled holes. I ended up having to grind down the screws and twisting the sub 10 minutes to the right and using some drywall screws I had in my garage. They didn't snap and I don't think the sub is going anywhere. I don't plan on removing it anytime soon.

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Before I re-screwed it. That is a JL speaker grill. Fits perfectly.

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Sub installed. It fits like a glove and looks like it came with the car. It still leaves room for luggage!

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