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Discussion Starter #141
It was a hot one today... a local favorite of mine.

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So other than re-installing the passenger side door card, the two front seats and then finishing up the URC.3 (which is hooked up, but not mounted) and my DAP mount, it is physically complete.

I connected the battery, started the car (which hasn't be run since I started this project) and while sitting in a nice cooled backseat, I realized none of the amps were on. 😏 I turned the car off and began to investigate. I got the multi-meter out and started checking power connections. The amps were both getting good power and I ultimately realized the remote wire was not measuring battery voltage when the ignition was on, but I measured battery voltage from the damn thing when I ran my 9-wire and it was good to go. I'm sitting there scratching my head and for some odd reason I decide to probe the REM Output of the Helix. I get 12.5v on one and 0v on the other. Of course, I'm like "WTF?!". I then proceed to slap my forehead realizing that I hooked the REM input line to the REM output of the Helix and the REM output line that goes to the Pico to the REM Input (they were reverses). Of course this wasn't a quick fix because I had to re-ferrule and re-heatshrink both lines (with me sweating and cursing the whole time). After I fixed that, the amps powered up.

I got the WiFi controller set up and was able to access the Helix fairly quickly. I worked on a setup file a while ago with inputs/outputs and crossover settings in demo mode while trying to get familiar with DSP Tool and fired up some XM radio. One by one, I unmuted each driver and had sound! Keep in mind, my input gains were cranked all the way CCW and I still have to set them another day, but at relatively low volume, it was a night and day different from the OE system (I should hope to hell it would!). I set up the HEC BT and played a song off Tidal. OMG!! 10+ times better than XM off the OE HU. I can't wait to hear it with my DAP/Optical.

That's all for today. I will try to finish the odds and ends and start tuning this week!
 

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So happy you got it up and running brother!! That .10 must definitely feel good going down after all the hard work put into the system! Don't blame the Ace screws too much, I had a hell of a time with screwing into that box as well. Screws would seems to go in perfectly (pre-drilled of course) and then about 1/2 way in it simply would not screw down further! Ended up stripping a few drive heads in the process. If I ever get anal enough to remove that speaker again I will definitely change over to the threaded inserts instead. How did the FastRings turn out with the printed mounts? I mean since its basically at stock distance from the door did you have to cut a lot of the foam off? Any mods to the panel to get it to fit? At least now you can drive the car a bit mean while you tune it in man. Congrats, everything came out beautifully!
 

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Hey guys, I have a Subaru (Ascent) and an under seat amp install and I’ve been a bit intimidated to take out the passenger seat. I’m getting ready to redo my install and it would be AWESOME to have all that room with the seat out when doing the install.

Is taking out the seat a big deal? Is the process found in the manual? What’s the general process? What tools do I need? Any safety issues?

Thanks for your help!


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Discussion Starter #144
So happy you got it up and running brother!! That .10 must definitely feel good going down after all the hard work put into the system! Don't blame the Ace screws too much, I had a hell of a time with screwing into that box as well. Screws would seems to go in perfectly (pre-drilled of course) and then about 1/2 way in it simply would not screw down further! Ended up stripping a few drive heads in the process. If I ever get anal enough to remove that speaker again I will definitely change over to the threaded inserts instead. How did the FastRings turn out with the printed mounts? I mean since its basically at stock distance from the door did you have to cut a lot of the foam off? Any mods to the panel to get it to fit? At least now you can drive the car a bit mean while you tune it in man. Congrats, everything came out beautifully!
The Stinger rings fit perfectly (the largest one in the package). I did trim the plastic on the inside the door trim panel to make the inside of the speaker grill pretty much flat. I will take a pic of that tomorrow. I still have the passenger side panel off.
 

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Discussion Starter #145
Hey guys, I have a Subaru (Ascent) and an under seat amp install and I’ve been a bit intimidated to take out the passenger seat. I’m getting ready to redo my install and it would be AWESOME to have all that room with the seat out when doing the install.

Is taking out the seat a big deal? Is the process found in the manual? What’s the general process? What tools do I need? Any safety issues?

Thanks for your help!


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Seats are pretty easy to remove. Usually just 4 bolts (14mm) and some electrical harnesses to disconnect for the airbags and seatbelt sensors. Hardest part is awkwardly lifting them out of the var without scratching anything.
 

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Sweet. I can’t believe it’s that easy, but I’m glad it is. I’m sure not scratching anything is pretty tough though ;-)


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Discussion Starter #147
Everything is back together and the car is able to be driven again. I hope to get some tuning in tomorrow. Some random pics. Here's my DAP mounted. I forgot to take a pic without the DAP in the mount to show the Proclip I bought. This setup is going to work nicely. I was able to run the thin optical cable up the seam between the glove compartment frame and the radio/climate section of the dash. It fits in there snugly and will not move. I then ran it up behind the DAP mount.

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My interim DAP cover.

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A pic of a Helix from the rear seat (the front seat is still pulled forward about halfway).

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THX, this is how much I cut off the door panels to accommodate MTuna's GB60 mounts.

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Well that's about it. I'll probably snap a few more random pics, but the hard part (hopefully) is over. I'm going to fire up my UMIK-1 tomorrow and play around. I still need to run some 50hz 0db though it to set gains for on the Pico. There is no clip light so I'll hook my O-scope to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #148
I was able to take the car to work today and get a good listen to the system. I was all smiles for my 40 min drive! It sounds great. One thing worth mentioning is that I don't hear a bit of buzzing or rattling from anywhere in the car. No system noise either. It is solid. I was terrified the thing was going to be buzzing and rattling everywhere having read that Subaru's are just crap when it comes to interior materials and sound deadening. Not the case at all. I am sure there's a little bit somewhere, but I can't hear it. I never did use the last piece of sound deadener. I figured I'd save it just in case I needed to focus on a specific area of concern later on.

One issue I've run into already that will need attention is the optical cable. I read not to spend a whole lot of money on an optical cable so I bought a cheapy $8 cable from Amazon. I liked it because it is really thin and was easy to route/hide in the car, but I noticed from day one that the mini-Toslink end of it that goes into the DAP doesn't fit as snug as I'd like it to. Today I heard some static while listening to some quieter acoustic songs and when I touched the cable near the DAP, it got worse. If I put downward pressure on the cable, it went away. I pulled the cable out and I can swear the tip of it is not perfectly smooth and polished so I think it's a POS and do believe you get what you pay for (to an extent) with optical cables. At this point, with the cash I laid down for all of the other components of this system, it probably doesn't make much sense not to drop $50-100 on a good cable for piece of mind.

When there's no static though, this thing sounds killer. If I can verify there is no static while the car is still, I may try tuning with the existing cable, but I don't really want to put much time into tuning if the quality of the signal is in question.

Another initial thought is that I may move the URC.3. I like the location I chose when it comes to being stealthy, but I find it's a little awkward to reach down there to adjust the master volume when listening to either the HEC BT or Digital sources. I also foresee myself forgetting to stow the door every time I get out of the car and ripping it off its hinge with my knee (I did this today... LOL). More importantly and regardless of my joy even thinking about it, I foresee my wife not appreciating that she doesn't have a volume control within arm's reach of the passenger seat. 🙄 So... it may eventually get moved to a more "convenient" spot - little things that'll need to get refined...
 

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Discussion Starter #150 (Edited)
Did some auto-TA and EQ tuning today. I used the UMIK-1 90 degree calibration file numbers for the Helix RTA.

Front stage left:

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Front stage right:

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Main EQ:

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Time Alignment (this looks like it didn't work correctly):

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I didn't bother EQ'ing with the sub yet because I need to scope the Pico to set the gains. I had limited time today to fool around with it and I was sweating my ass off.

I ran a REW RTA for the whole system once I did the auto-EQ and included the sub without tuning. I'd say it doesn't look bad at all. How do I get target curves for individual drivers and overlay them on my RTA?

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Discussion Starter #151
Well it's been a week or so since getting the system up and running. I finally cracked the code on REW RTA, EQ and even learned how to import filters into the Helix, which is super cool so I've been experimenting with that over the past two days or so. I tried using Helix's auto-tune features for Time Alignment and EQ. The auto Time Alignment feature did not work so well for me, so I used basic measurements. The Auto-EQ did work pretty well, but it still didn't do what manual tuning using REW can do. So the system sounds pretty good, to me, but I know it's not anywhere near expertly tuned. Preliminary measurements with REW are definitely showing that the tweeters and midranges are dominating the system in volume, so I definitely need to level-match them. I also think the windshield is causing some nasty peaks, mainly with the midranges, so I want to play with the crossover settings. I currently have them set from 300-4000, but I think the GB25's can play lower than that. Another issue I am seeing is that the midbasses aren't loud enough. I did a bunch of EQ tonight in REW and will load a new setup file in the AM. I'll try to do more measurements tomorrow and post some pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #152
I have a feeling something may be pressing up against the rubber surrounds of my midbass, so I will probably put the door panels off this week to investigate. They are just weak with barely any low end punch. It doesn't seem like I can get any volume out of them, which is strange with 120 watts going to each of them. My tweeters and midrange's are dominating the system.

Left Midbass:
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Right midbass:
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I responded on my thread but with the door panels off and playing music try covering whatever remaining hours you may have in the door. Made a huge difference for me.

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Discussion Starter #154 (Edited)
Well I've been working hard trying to get this thing flattened out. I suspect having the tweeters and the midranges firing into the windshield is giving me a lot of those peaks and dips. I may have to play around with different crossover points, but for now I'm using 65, 80-300, 300-3000 and 3000+. LR - 24db. I still haven't played around with my gains yet. The tweeters don't look half bad. I need a little more work on the midrange. They also don't fall off with the 24db/octave slope that I'd like them to. Again, probably reflection off the windshield. Tweeters and midrange need to come down in levels, right MR needs to come up a bit and the midbass need to come up a bit.


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This was baseline, no EQ (without 1/6th smoothing).

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Discussion Starter #155 (Edited)
It's getting there. I accidentally deleted the Left Midbass plot, so I'll have to redo that one, but this is individual driver plots I did tonight. For some reason, REW was giving me some weird filters on the left tweeter above 11k Hz (pulling lots of db up there, which explains that dip, but I added some back and will remeasure tomorrow.

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I had dips between the midbass/midrange and midrange/tweeter until I reversed the polarity on the midranges and then it was flat across the board. I also reversed polarity on the subwoofer because I had about a 5db dip at the crossover point.

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Other than that, I want to work on flattening out the midbass, but the driver's side is giving me a big dip (I guess that's common). I think I can get the passenger side flatter (again, I accidentally deleted that plot, but it was actually decent). I ended up changing up the crossovers a bit, which seemed to help things out a bit so now I am using 60, 80-400, 400-4000 and 4000+.

Other than that, the sub is booming, so I'm going to bring the gain down about 5db. I have my URC.3 set for Master Volume and Sub Volume, so I don't want to come down on the sub too much. I'm happy with the way it sounds. This is what it looked like yesterday with no EQ.

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So far, if I had to do it over again, I would have probably gone with either a GB12 sub in the same type enclosure or another 10" on the other side with either another Pico to run it. The GB10D2 is musical, but at lower volumes, it has a hard time getting through the back seat. I am being picky though. Overall, I love the way it sounds and I guess it appears having tweeters and wide-bands up in the dash corners is not effecting my ability to get a decent tune. The soundstage is right at eye-level and the image is pretty much centered.

More to come...
 

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Some of your issues are from the helix cross over playing below. I had to use my EQ to fix this. Andy originally pointed this out when I was having some issues.

Select the channel you are using and manually use the EQ to hit your target roll off.
 

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Discussion Starter #158
Some of your issues are from the helix cross over playing below. I had to use my EQ to fix this. Andy originally pointed this out when I was having some issues.

Select the channel you are using and manually use the EQ to hit your target roll off.
Are you talking about why it seems the responses are bleeding over the crossover points? I noticed this also. I wasn't sure if this was due to reflection or not. Doesn't seem like the Helix does a perfect job at filtering at the crossover points. In REW EQ I've been having to set the "match range" much wider than the crossover points to get them to rolloff the way they should. Of course this eats up parametric bands like crazy on some of the drivers.
 

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Are you talking about why it seems the responses are bleeding over the crossover points? I noticed this also. I wasn't sure if this was due to reflection or not. Doesn't seem like the Helix does a perfect job at filtering at the crossover points. In REW EQ I've been having to set the "match range" much wider than the crossover points to get them to rolloff the way they should. Of course this eats up parametric bands like crazy on some of the drivers.
Exactly if you use rew and you set it below your cross over points it will have you eq them out.
odd that the crossover would not do it solely, or so I thought. I seen you had mentioned reflection. I thought the same so grabbed a speaker and moved in cabin and found it was not reflection in my case.
 
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