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Discussion Starter #22
Okay...had a bit of a delay, but now I’m back to buying the equipment. A few new posts raise a few questions. Just confirming I'm getting everything straight:

NOTE: Given the overall price tag of the entire build, I need save some money so some of the suggestions will have to pass/wait– if necessary, I can always upgrade the sound later once my wife gets over the sticker shock.

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Head Unit: Going with RetroSound Huntington ($400) for the look/feel, but will add DSP for tuning flexibility.

DSP: Going with Dayton Audio DSP-408 + Controller and BT Receiver ($185)...strong suggestions for JL TWK88 (~$400-450). Question…is there a measurable advantage with the TWK88 to justify the extra $250?

Amplifier: NVX JAD900.5 ($230)...strong suggestions for JL XD 500/3v2 amp ($500) but again need to be cost-wise. Question...I assume the idea is to bridge the 1/2 and 3/4 channels to create 2 channels for the front coaxials...right?

DAC (new): I’m liking this addition…question is…any budget-conscious suggestions? I've been worried about the source coming from the RetroSound unit, and this may be a way to address that.

Coaxial Speakers: May stay with Morel Tempo Ultra 502 ($280) vs Morel Integra 524 (save $50 and get grills included).

Amplifier Installation Kit - KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4 Gauge OFC Amplifier Installation Kit ($60).

RCA Cables – Stinger 6000 series ($50)…still unsure about this item given the previous input from rton20s re: RCA cablew….I “think” I would prefer to mount the remote bass level know from the NVX (perhaps under the dash)…if so, are you suggesting I go with these slightly better RCA cables for connecting the HU, DSP, and speakers (i.e. trash the RCAs from the above amplifier installation kit)?

Subwoofer: JL Audio CS110LG-TW3 ($400)
 

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If using the 408 and Bluetooth you won't need the twk, dac, wired remote, or HU for that matter. The dac in the Dayton will take care of that conversion.
 

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The need for time alignment is low for coaxial speakers.
You may have less of a need for a DSP than usual??
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Thanks for the input...how about the ancillary items? Do I have everything they'll need for the installation? Thanks
 

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I was going to have a big drawn out post, but I will leave it at this...

Skip the 3 channel amp, especially at a higher cost.

Skip the DAC until after you have evaluated the installed system without one.

Skip the more expensive DSP unless you really have the budget for it.
 

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Thanks for the input...how about the ancillary items? Do I have everything they'll need for the installation? Thanks
I got that Knu amp kit as well and it has quite a bit of install materials in it.

Any plans for sound treatment? Do you need speaker adapters/baffles? That's the only other things I ended up getting outside of what you have already listed.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
The sound deadening and baffles are taken care of. I "think" I'm ready to pull the trigger. I'll try to show photos of the final build...it's really turned out to be a special build.
 

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Since your budget is so tight skip the retro headunit for now, buy a $25 Bluetooth receiver and most of the current iPods can send FM radio over Bluetooth.

Forget the Dayton DSP. It has bad reviews.

Get the MiniDSP 6x8 instead for $275. It has free tuning software that works with the optional rta mic. Great company, people on here use them. The 6x8 model is basically the same specs and features at the JL TWK88. Connect your Bluetooth receiver to the DSP with a digital optical cable.

Your DSP will have a built in DAC you don’t buy a separate one you buy a better DSP instead.

Coaxials will be less to install but in a classic car you will almost certainly have to put them low in the kicks. By going with components you’ll greatly increase you imaging because you’ll be able to aim the tweeters at your ears where the sound goes in...duh

As for the amp wiring you’ll have a processor and 4 channels for the front so you should be running active, no bridging. The 3ch amp would be better if you're dead set on the coaxials and retro head unit, but in this scenario you really don't have a substantial requirement for the processor at all. With the 4ch in this scenario, I think of bridging as a useful option when necessary but never ideal. Pushing all 4 channels of an inexpensive amp at the lowest impedance (2ohms) will almost certainly shorten its life.

Again, the 4ch amp and the processor is the ideal solution because you can use each channel for each of the 4 front drivers.

You’re also leaving out some important and costly items from your budget. Speaker wire, sound deadener, fused power for the DSP, ring terminals, heat shrink, unique speciality tools...there’s a lot of residual things that add up fast.
 
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